Stillen UDP?
09-22-2011, 12:10 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lenoir, NC
Posts: 45
Stillen UDP?
I have searched and searched through the 2 or 3 threads about this product for reviews but nobody really has a definite good or bad on this so i figured i would ask.
To the people who have bought the pulley, how do you like it? was it worth the money? im considering getting one because i had an UDP on my Eclipse and it made a world of difference in the acceleration.
i looked on the altima forums and the 3.5L guys over there have nothing but good things to say about it on their cars. i know it's not the same car but the gains should be about the same i would think with the same motor/tranny.
To the people who have bought the pulley, how do you like it? was it worth the money? im considering getting one because i had an UDP on my Eclipse and it made a world of difference in the acceleration.
i looked on the altima forums and the 3.5L guys over there have nothing but good things to say about it on their cars. i know it's not the same car but the gains should be about the same i would think with the same motor/tranny.
09-23-2011, 02:15 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Walls, MS
Posts: 251
This is the only post from someone that has them on a 7th gen that i can remember.
09-25-2011, 05:16 AM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
i wish they made just a lightweight one, im worried about the underdrive negatively affecting any of my accessories
"All potential problems with an underdrive pulley stems from the accessory drives running at a slower than stock rate. Street to Strip says that problems are more likely to surface when the vehicle is idling. The charging system may be weak and the compressor may not produce as much power to run the air conditioning system as specified by the manufacturer. Most modern engines have electronic idle control mechanisms. One who attempts to change the calibrations of such mechanisms is likely to encounter problems, according to Street to Strip."
"All potential problems with an underdrive pulley stems from the accessory drives running at a slower than stock rate. Street to Strip says that problems are more likely to surface when the vehicle is idling. The charging system may be weak and the compressor may not produce as much power to run the air conditioning system as specified by the manufacturer. Most modern engines have electronic idle control mechanisms. One who attempts to change the calibrations of such mechanisms is likely to encounter problems, according to Street to Strip."
Last edited by Ghozt; 09-25-2011 at 10:21 AM.
10-03-2011, 07:48 PM
#8
Yo....i dont have a 7th gen......i have a 5.5 gen 2002 max with 6 speed...amd I bought the stillen UD pulley had it installed about a week ago...no problems.....no dim lights or negative affects on equipment....i can tell u car accelerates faster.....stock crank is really heavy compared to the stillen one......i love it...they sell a belt set with it because pulley a bit smaller...my.mechanic was able to use the stocl belt on one and used the new smaller belt on the other accessory...cant remember which one....but I would not worry about it....i would recommend it to anyone that asked me!!!!
01-14-2012, 05:51 AM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 113
I just ordered mine yesterday. Stillen had a promotion for the new year so I was able to get the smaller belt for free actually.
The UDP will arrive next week. I'll try the install soon next weekend and update everyone.
From what I hear, the mod will free up torque at the low rpm range and increase acceleration speed from 0 to 60.
The UDP will arrive next week. I'll try the install soon next weekend and update everyone.
From what I hear, the mod will free up torque at the low rpm range and increase acceleration speed from 0 to 60.
01-16-2012, 01:40 PM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
my UD pulley just arrived. looks extremely well made and is fairly light. i just had a new radiator put in (front end collision) so im gonna wait a week or so before i install this to make sure the repairs I just had were done correctly.
01-21-2012, 07:00 AM
#16
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 113
i just received my Stillen UDP package yesterday from fedex. i gotta tell you guys... this thing looks freakin sweet! real quality material...and it shines like a jewel. it feels so light in hand, and strong and sturdy too. the pulley feels perfectly balanced. i remember reading during my extensive researches on other forums and websites, that this pulley is the harmonic balancer. i've posted some pics below.
bigear82, you're right on the money with the weight. i placed this bad boy on my weigh scale, and this sucker only weighs in at 1lb! i'm curious to see how much the stock pulley weighs, and how big it is, when i pull it off.
picture of the smaller belt... not much to see. but i just wanted to note that with the smaller pulley size you will need to install a smaller belt.
my plan is to perform the installation tomorrow afternoon. i'll keep you guys updated with the install and my review of the product. look forward to a DIY for the underdrive pulley install!
bigear82, you're right on the money with the weight. i placed this bad boy on my weigh scale, and this sucker only weighs in at 1lb! i'm curious to see how much the stock pulley weighs, and how big it is, when i pull it off.
picture of the smaller belt... not much to see. but i just wanted to note that with the smaller pulley size you will need to install a smaller belt.
my plan is to perform the installation tomorrow afternoon. i'll keep you guys updated with the install and my review of the product. look forward to a DIY for the underdrive pulley install!
01-22-2012, 06:19 PM
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
Just got mine in the mail and tried installing today. My 230lbs impact wrench didn't do any damage on that pulley bolt. I did everything I could to get that thing off and couldn't get it. Going to a buddy's shop tomorrow to use a larger impact. The install is REALLY easy if you have the right tools. Would have taken me half an hour if I would have had something to get that bolt out.
01-22-2012, 07:22 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 113
tried the install with my buddy at his house earlier this afternoon, but was not able to get the stock crank pulley off. here's a recap of the install.
1: raise the car on jack stands.
2:take the right wheel off.
3: remove the splash guard behind the wheel by taking off the push-clips.
here's a pic of the pulley set up. the crank pulley is pointed out with the red arrow.
3: remove the tension in the belt. take a wrench on the tension pulley and pull down with your right hand. the force will push the tension pulley to the left which will line up the two holes to the left of the tension pulley. stick a thick allen wrench when the two holes line up to remove the tension off the belt.
here's an angle where you can see the tension pulley to the left of the crank pulley and the two holes i'm talkin about.
4: remove the belt. make a note of how the belt is supposed to look as you are supposed to place the new belt the same way. draw it on a piece of paper and be sure to indicate how the belt wraps in relation to the various pulleys.
5: remove the stock crank pully. this is where i failed to progress in the install. my friend's 250 ft/lb impact wrench wasn't strong enough to screw out the bolt. i'll need to try an impact wrench with power of 400 - 500 ft/lbs.
6 and so on.... replace the pulley with the UDP and put the humpty dumpty 7th gen maxima back together again.
looking back at the install, it's a relatively easy process. the only hard part is the part of having to loosen the bolt. if you don't have a strong enough impact gun, you might have to suck it up and take this to a shop for an install.
i'm going to see if another friend of mine has a strong enough impact gun (or i could look into investing into a strong enough impact gun). otherwise, i may have to take it to a shop.
if i ever try the install again... i'll take better pics and have more detail of the install.
1: raise the car on jack stands.
2:take the right wheel off.
3: remove the splash guard behind the wheel by taking off the push-clips.
here's a pic of the pulley set up. the crank pulley is pointed out with the red arrow.
3: remove the tension in the belt. take a wrench on the tension pulley and pull down with your right hand. the force will push the tension pulley to the left which will line up the two holes to the left of the tension pulley. stick a thick allen wrench when the two holes line up to remove the tension off the belt.
here's an angle where you can see the tension pulley to the left of the crank pulley and the two holes i'm talkin about.
4: remove the belt. make a note of how the belt is supposed to look as you are supposed to place the new belt the same way. draw it on a piece of paper and be sure to indicate how the belt wraps in relation to the various pulleys.
5: remove the stock crank pully. this is where i failed to progress in the install. my friend's 250 ft/lb impact wrench wasn't strong enough to screw out the bolt. i'll need to try an impact wrench with power of 400 - 500 ft/lbs.
6 and so on.... replace the pulley with the UDP and put the humpty dumpty 7th gen maxima back together again.
looking back at the install, it's a relatively easy process. the only hard part is the part of having to loosen the bolt. if you don't have a strong enough impact gun, you might have to suck it up and take this to a shop for an install.
i'm going to see if another friend of mine has a strong enough impact gun (or i could look into investing into a strong enough impact gun). otherwise, i may have to take it to a shop.
if i ever try the install again... i'll take better pics and have more detail of the install.
01-22-2012, 07:29 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 113
with the right tools, the job should be an easy 2 hours or less.
my friend and i got the car on jacks, the wheel off and the belt de-tensioned in about half an hour.
the next 20 min was spent trying to engineer ways to remove the crank pulley bolt when we realized the impact gun wasn't working out. i would say that once the pulley bolt is out, the install is all down hill from there.
i got to my friend's house at 4:15pm... and i had my car back on the ground around 5:30pm. i wish i could have had the install finished and the car back on the ground at 6:30pm before the Giants and 49ers game tonight.
my friend and i got the car on jacks, the wheel off and the belt de-tensioned in about half an hour.
the next 20 min was spent trying to engineer ways to remove the crank pulley bolt when we realized the impact gun wasn't working out. i would say that once the pulley bolt is out, the install is all down hill from there.
i got to my friend's house at 4:15pm... and i had my car back on the ground around 5:30pm. i wish i could have had the install finished and the car back on the ground at 6:30pm before the Giants and 49ers game tonight.
01-22-2012, 08:35 PM
#27
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
Here you go guys. This is the step by step I used. It's designed for an altima but the same engine and placement of everything (pulley related).
http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-still...5-t405345.html
http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-still...5-t405345.html
01-23-2012, 05:11 AM
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,020
it's an UD pulley meaning it drives the alternator less and therefore there's less electrical current running through the vehicle. with all the electronics in our cars I assumed lower current would have negatively affected something but it's good to see everything is working well.
01-23-2012, 06:30 AM
#29
01-23-2012, 08:02 AM
#31
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01-24-2012, 12:51 PM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
just a side note. I got mine on finally and let it run for about five minutes. Noticed a small spider web of oil on my new pulley. This got me nervous and so I started searching online for oil leak problems with new pulleys. Two options, either I damaged the seal or the "key hole" on the pulley is leaking. I'm almost positive I did not damage the seal as I never touched the inside area where the seal is. So I'm gonna pull it all back apart and use High Temp RTV in the keyed area on the new pulley. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress.
01-24-2012, 05:02 PM
#33
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
just a side note. I got mine on finally and let it run for about five minutes. Noticed a small spider web of oil on my new pulley. This got me nervous and so I started searching online for oil leak problems with new pulleys. Two options, either I damaged the seal or the "key hole" on the pulley is leaking. I'm almost positive I did not damage the seal as I never touched the inside area where the seal is. So I'm gonna pull it all back apart and use High Temp RTV in the keyed area on the new pulley. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress.
Last edited by copekyle; 01-24-2012 at 05:03 PM. Reason: resize picture
01-26-2012, 09:00 AM
#35
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
I put the pulley in place and tapped it with a rubber hammer just to set it and make sure the key was in place. I then held the pulley in place as I tightened the bolt to 33ft/lbs. I then drew marks on the pulley bolt and pulley and tightened the bolt a full 90 degree turn.
I took it all apart again and put RTV in the keyed area. I let it sit 24 hours and started it up. No more oil leak. I'm gonna put the wheel back on and take it for a spirited drive and see if the seal holds. I'll update after the drive.
I took it all apart again and put RTV in the keyed area. I let it sit 24 hours and started it up. No more oil leak. I'm gonna put the wheel back on and take it for a spirited drive and see if the seal holds. I'll update after the drive.
01-26-2012, 10:13 AM
#36
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
SUCCESS!!! No more oil leak! Did a few 0-60 runs and then took her out on the freeway to open it up. I came back home and no oil leak. So my advice to anyone doing this install is to put high temp RTV in the "keyed" or "notched" area of the pulley before installing. Even if your pulley was machined more precise than mine, the RTV won't hurt anything if it's not actually needed.
Good luck to everyone doing this install!
Good luck to everyone doing this install!
01-26-2012, 01:00 PM
#38
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 36
That being said, I had R2C Intake, Thermal Spacers and BOP's installed before the pulley install. I'm still on the first tank of gas from these mods so the car hasn't fully adjusted to them. The pulley doesn't seem to make a difference in my car at all BUT this does not mean it won't work with the set up you have in your car.
I feel like you would feel the gain from this pulley if it was your first mod but after you get down the list of all mods for this car, you may not feel a difference.
01-26-2012, 04:35 PM
#40
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Location: Miami, FL
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