Something I'm thinking about doing...
#1
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Something I'm thinking about doing...
My engine is assembled, but I have to replace about $800 of stuff for my trailer, after someone stole the 8,000lb winch, the large tractor battery and box, the solar charger, and all my ratchet hold down straps. And no, nothing is covered by insurance....
I've mounted two NX Shark nozzles in a spare elbow. I think these would work fine with the SSIM manifold - hopefully with better N2O distribution.
I've also been working out the details of a dual stage direct port system, using nitrous and methanol. Two sets of NX Piranha nozzles, each set with a nitrous and fuel distribution manifold and solenoids, and both built as separate lift-off modules so changing jets is relatively easy. The methanol supply will be a 3 gal fuel cell with its own Walbro 255lph HP pump and Aeromotive FPR - stuff I already have... A good 37-degree tubing flare tool is harder to find than I expected - but eBay has good choices.
It looks like the SSIM will take some machine work to fit two nozzles per runner. Those extra bosses will have to go......
I've mounted two NX Shark nozzles in a spare elbow. I think these would work fine with the SSIM manifold - hopefully with better N2O distribution.
I've also been working out the details of a dual stage direct port system, using nitrous and methanol. Two sets of NX Piranha nozzles, each set with a nitrous and fuel distribution manifold and solenoids, and both built as separate lift-off modules so changing jets is relatively easy. The methanol supply will be a 3 gal fuel cell with its own Walbro 255lph HP pump and Aeromotive FPR - stuff I already have... A good 37-degree tubing flare tool is harder to find than I expected - but eBay has good choices.
It looks like the SSIM will take some machine work to fit two nozzles per runner. Those extra bosses will have to go......
#3
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Actually I was thinking about using the elbow nozzles as a third stage, to supplement the before-throttlebody Sharks, now set at 75-shot and 100-shot. If I do it, this will be on the old nitrous setup from last year.
The new engine, using nitrous with methanol, will take some serious EU tuning, with a planned redline of at least 8K, but the third nitrous stage will be tested at 6K and above....
The new engine should handle at least a total of 300-shot of nitrous. It's built for at least 1000 hp, up to 10K. How to use it - that's probably all of next season to figure out.
The new engine, using nitrous with methanol, will take some serious EU tuning, with a planned redline of at least 8K, but the third nitrous stage will be tested at 6K and above....
The new engine should handle at least a total of 300-shot of nitrous. It's built for at least 1000 hp, up to 10K. How to use it - that's probably all of next season to figure out.
#6
I like it! I was thinking the same thing for my meth injection. Having dual nozzles instead of one big one, for better distribution. I actually have two nozzles mounted on the pipe before the TB, but having it how you have in the 1st pic would be great. Do you know more or less how thick that area of the elbow is?
#7
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I like it! I was thinking the same thing for my meth injection. Having dual nozzles instead of one big one, for better distribution. I actually have two nozzles mounted on the pipe before the TB, but having it how you have in the 1st pic would be great. Do you know more or less how thick that area of the elbow is?
Oh, heck, I owe you one for doing all my RMT research, so I"ll go take a couple of photos.
and the start of my EU adapter:
I think it would work for you...
#8
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I'll retire the old nitrous system, except for the dual 15lb bottles in the trunk.
...
#9
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Once I get the rev limiter raised to 8K or more, I want to have a third stage for the upper revs. At least that's where my plans are at today.
#11
It would be hard to measure because of the curve of the tube, but with the holes drilled and carefully tapped for the Shark (1/8 NPT) there's lot of material there. All I need to finish those two nozzles is to back them out and deburr the holes, then use some red Permabond to make them permanent. The elbow is pretty meaty right there. And yes, I did think about using that location for meth/water injection, before I decided to go for the dual-stage direct port injection with methanol instead of gas.
Oh, heck, I owe you one for doing all my RMT research, so I"ll go take a couple of photos.
and the start of my EU adapter:
I think it would work for you...
Oh, heck, I owe you one for doing all my RMT research, so I"ll go take a couple of photos.
and the start of my EU adapter:
I think it would work for you...
#12
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If your nozzles are either 1/16 NPT or 1/8 NPT, you can drill a few test holes and plug the ones you don't want with a standard NPT plug...
#13
Can't wait to see the direct port setup.
Make sure you invest in some equal distribution blocks. Not the typical square ones that most people use.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fCarQ5fParts
Make sure you invest in some equal distribution blocks. Not the typical square ones that most people use.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fCarQ5fParts
#14
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Can't wait to see the direct port setup.
Make sure you invest in some equal distribution blocks. Not the typical square ones that most people use.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fCarQ5fParts
Make sure you invest in some equal distribution blocks. Not the typical square ones that most people use.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fCarQ5fParts
I will have -6AN lines for nitrous and methanol run to the solenoid pairs through hi-flow Y-connectors and filters.
It's gonna be a pile of hardware mounted on the SSIM - or whatever intake manifold I settle on. I've bought some tubing, line cutters and flaring tools along with sample nozzles and taps, and I've already discovered that you gotta have a quality 37-degree flaring tool - and stainless steel 3/16" lines just don't flare well. Back to plain steel, I guess.
This will be complicated.....
#16
I would do a single stage, direct port 250+ shot with a progressive controller. I know he doesn't like progressive controllers though...
#17
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No dancing solenoids for me...... I'm too old - I would never learn to control a progressive.
#18
Are your nozzles built to spray straight ahead, instead of turning a corner? If so I think you can go back a little further around the corner of the elbow and drill at an angle, so they would shoot straight down the elbow into the manifold.
If your nozzles are either 1/16 NPT or 1/8 NPT, you can drill a few test holes and plug the ones you don't want with a standard NPT plug...
If your nozzles are either 1/16 NPT or 1/8 NPT, you can drill a few test holes and plug the ones you don't want with a standard NPT plug...
#19
I knew you were going to say something along those lines. lol
Truth is, a progressive controller gives you more control. It just isn't very good for the solenoids. You could use your two other sets of solenoids as back ups.
I hooked on smaller slicks (m&h 23x7.5x15), spraying a 150 shot out of the hole. I was also dumping the clutch off the rev limiter and I have much shorting gearing. 1st gear only goes about 35 mph with my small slicks. My trick is limiting straps, large burnout, and low tire pressure.
Truth is, a progressive controller gives you more control. It just isn't very good for the solenoids. You could use your two other sets of solenoids as back ups.
I hooked on smaller slicks (m&h 23x7.5x15), spraying a 150 shot out of the hole. I was also dumping the clutch off the rev limiter and I have much shorting gearing. 1st gear only goes about 35 mph with my small slicks. My trick is limiting straps, large burnout, and low tire pressure.
#20
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I knew you were going to say something along those lines. lol
Truth is, a progressive controller gives you more control. It just isn't very good for the solenoids. You could use your two other sets of solenoids as back ups.
I hooked on smaller slicks (m&h 23x7.5x15), spraying a 150 shot out of the hole. I was also dumping the clutch off the rev limiter and I have much shorting gearing. 1st gear only goes about 35 mph with my small slicks. My trick is limiting straps, large burnout, and low tire pressure.
Truth is, a progressive controller gives you more control. It just isn't very good for the solenoids. You could use your two other sets of solenoids as back ups.
I hooked on smaller slicks (m&h 23x7.5x15), spraying a 150 shot out of the hole. I was also dumping the clutch off the rev limiter and I have much shorting gearing. 1st gear only goes about 35 mph with my small slicks. My trick is limiting straps, large burnout, and low tire pressure.
My car weighs 3540 at the line, cocked and locked, and stalled up to 3000. If I use any more than a 75-shot, the slicks break loose and spin and I lose a couple of tenths before the 330'. That's repeatable - and I do know how to do burnouts and run not less than 14lbs, with 1.8xx 60' and occasional 1.7xx 60'. I have no monkey-motion front or rear. So what's the difference here?
11-21-2009 100-shot launch, when I lost a cylinder:
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9_3rd_Pass.flv
Last edited by grey99max; 05-24-2010 at 12:39 PM.
#21
Maybe a little bit. lol
I'm not trying to be rude though. I love what you are doing. You are one of the few nitrous pioneers that has inspired me.
3540!! That's probably a big part of your traction problems. My car probably weighs about 3100lbs (race weight).
My car consistently does a 1.7 60' time. I have been using a progressive controller, but it's not like it's doing a whole lot. It ramps up from 0-100% in 0.5 seconds. I'm about 99% sure it'll do a 1.6 60ft, if I spray 100% out of the hole.
I tried 14psi tire pressure and it spun a little bit. At 13psi it spun a little less. At 12psi it hooked.
This is just my experience though. Do what you will with it. I'm just trying to help.
It looks like the front raises and the rear squats a little bit, but it's not that bad.
Man, I can't wait to see what your car runs with the new motor.
I'm not trying to be rude though. I love what you are doing. You are one of the few nitrous pioneers that has inspired me.
My car weighs 3540 at the line, cocked and locked, and stalled up to 3000. If I use any more than a 75-shot, the slicks break loose and spin and I lose a couple of tenths before the 330'. That's repeatable - and I do know how to do burnouts and run not less than 14lbs, with 1.8xx 60' and occasional 1.7xx 60'. I have no monkey-motion front or rear. So what's the difference here?
My car consistently does a 1.7 60' time. I have been using a progressive controller, but it's not like it's doing a whole lot. It ramps up from 0-100% in 0.5 seconds. I'm about 99% sure it'll do a 1.6 60ft, if I spray 100% out of the hole.
I tried 14psi tire pressure and it spun a little bit. At 13psi it spun a little less. At 12psi it hooked.
This is just my experience though. Do what you will with it. I'm just trying to help.
11-21-2009 100-shot launch, when I lost a cylinder:
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9_3rd_Pass.flv
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...9_3rd_Pass.flv
Man, I can't wait to see what your car runs with the new motor.
#22
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Maybe a little bit. lol
I'm not trying to be rude though. I love what you are doing. You are one of the few nitrous pioneers that has inspired me.
3540!! That's probably a big part of your traction problems. My car probably weighs about 3100lbs (race weight).
My car consistently does a 1.7 60' time. I have been using a progressive controller, but it's not like it's doing a whole lot. It ramps up from 0-100% in 0.5 seconds. I'm about 99% sure it'll do a 1.6 60ft, if I spray 100% out of the hole.
I tried 14psi tire pressure and it spun a little bit. At 13psi it spun a little less. At 12psi it hooked.
This is just my experience though. Do what you will with it. I'm just trying to help.
It looks like the front raises and the rear squats a little bit, but it's not that bad.
Man, I can't wait to see what your car runs with the new motor.
I'm not trying to be rude though. I love what you are doing. You are one of the few nitrous pioneers that has inspired me.
3540!! That's probably a big part of your traction problems. My car probably weighs about 3100lbs (race weight).
My car consistently does a 1.7 60' time. I have been using a progressive controller, but it's not like it's doing a whole lot. It ramps up from 0-100% in 0.5 seconds. I'm about 99% sure it'll do a 1.6 60ft, if I spray 100% out of the hole.
I tried 14psi tire pressure and it spun a little bit. At 13psi it spun a little less. At 12psi it hooked.
This is just my experience though. Do what you will with it. I'm just trying to help.
It looks like the front raises and the rear squats a little bit, but it's not that bad.
Man, I can't wait to see what your car runs with the new motor.
At anything under 14 psi, the slicks sometimes dance across the strip before the line, and stopping can get really scary. I stick with 14 lb to stay alive. Probably wider slicks will help. The new engine? That will be - exciting - once it's installed and broken in, along with the Greddy EU and new nitrous/methanol setup, but getting all of that done will take time.
.
.
#23
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Harold I would check out the Walbro/methanol compatibility, I have heard E85 problems with the Walbro and the methanol is much more corrosive.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
#24
Harold I would check out the Walbro/methanol compatibility, I have heard E85 problems with the Walbro and the methanol is much more corrosive.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
#25
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Harold I would check out the Walbro/methanol compatibility, I have heard E85 problems with the Walbro and the methanol is much more corrosive.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
Also check out the solenoid compatibility, I switched over to McMaster Carr solenoids because the NX noid seals will not handle methanol.
I'm currently tuning my setup using methanol as the secondary fuel for nitrous and you have to have lots of jets as well because the methanol requires approx twice the flow vs gas because of its lower BTU value. So far looks good I am using a Devils Own 250 psi pump but so far just going to try a 35 shot and go from there. I did try the 100 shot fuel noid and it lowered my a/f from 12.8 to around 10 o it will take a bit of tuning to get it right.
NX has separate noids for methanol, see here: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...egory=1,25,251
They have a pretty complete catalog going for themselves.
Direct-port 6cyl jetting:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instru..._dpjetting.pdf
When I use race fuel for the engine injectors and methanol with the nitrous, I expect to see weird numbers for A/F as I spray. Heck, back in the day with my Triumph 850cc drag bike using nitromethane/methanol 50-50, I just had to read the plugs and hope for the best, because 100% nitromethane has a 1:1 A/F. and I didn't have a A/F meter - I don't think they were invented by 1970....
So you're trying some methanol with your nitrous? subscribed....
I've started rebuilding my trailer, with an eye for security. The battery will be in a locked steel box welded to the trailer frame up front, and secured with huge Master locks and aircraft security cable. The winch and mounting plate will be bolted together, the bolts welded to the mounting plate, the mounting plate welded to the trailer frame, and the winch will have two 1/8" steel straps welded around both ends for additional safety. Let's hope nothing breaks!
Last edited by grey99max; 05-28-2010 at 08:48 PM.
#26
I've started rebuilding my trailer, with an eye for security. The battery will be in a locked steel box welded to the trailer frame up front, and secured with huge Master locks and aircraft security cable. The winch and mounting plate will be bolted together, the bolts welded to the mounting plate, the mounting plate welded to the trailer frame, and the winch will have two 1/8" steel straps welded around both ends for additional safety. Let's hope nothing breaks!
Sucks you have to go thru all get to keep your stuff
Last edited by t6378tp; 05-29-2010 at 03:59 AM.
#27
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So I did a little more tuning today and have it all in the 12.6 -12.8 range. Then I tried the 35 shot and it ran in the 11.5 area just where I want it so I tried the 100 shot, same thing so my jet calculations were bang on. I also tried the 35 and 100 together but not enough traction so i will save that for tomorrow at the track.
Here is my chart but its for 80/20 meth/water and 150 psi so it will change accordingly with a different mix or press change. My pump was initially set at 250 psi but I figured that wasn't really necessary so I dropped it down.
HP N2O Fuel Meth
150 62 35 52
125 57 33 49
100 52 28 41
75 41 22 33
50 35 20 30
35 31 18 26
I've just put in a new trans with 5k on it and a new engine out of an 07 with 9k on it so will be interesting to see what it does N/A. Its bone stock, just dropped it in as is and don't plan plan modding it. If it can still run an 11.5 tomorrow on a 100-200 shot I am fine for the season I have one import series that I run an 11.5 index class, the rest I run N/A.
Here is my chart but its for 80/20 meth/water and 150 psi so it will change accordingly with a different mix or press change. My pump was initially set at 250 psi but I figured that wasn't really necessary so I dropped it down.
HP N2O Fuel Meth
150 62 35 52
125 57 33 49
100 52 28 41
75 41 22 33
50 35 20 30
35 31 18 26
I've just put in a new trans with 5k on it and a new engine out of an 07 with 9k on it so will be interesting to see what it does N/A. Its bone stock, just dropped it in as is and don't plan plan modding it. If it can still run an 11.5 tomorrow on a 100-200 shot I am fine for the season I have one import series that I run an 11.5 index class, the rest I run N/A.
Last edited by Jime; 05-29-2010 at 02:38 PM.
#29
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Repairs are about half-finished today. I've got all the parts now, and need to get the winch mounted and welded into place. Probably this will be finished this weekend.
#30
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Trailer is finished... pix
I have finished rebuilding the trailer. I installed a new 8,000 lb 12 volt winch and mounting plate, a new steel tool box, and a 850-cca tractor battery which goes inside that box.
The baseplate for the winch had been welded onto the front already, so I installed the new mounting plate and winch onto it with bolts - then welded the bolt heads so it will take a grinder to get it back off. I also bent 1/8" steel in two loops and welded them around both ends of the winch, attached to the mounting plate. Arc welding is not my thing -
The tool/battery box is mounted on the forward hitch with 1/2" bolts and lock nuts - inside the box. I have a 7' Kyptonite cable with lock going around the lid to keep people out.
I replaced all four tiedown straps with 10,000 lb ratchets and J-hooks on both ends, and will take them off when not using them.I also rewired my 2003 SC Frontier to provide a 30-amp fused charging connector at the back, so I can plug in and charge the battery while moving. I sure hope this takes care of the thieves.
The baseplate for the winch had been welded onto the front already, so I installed the new mounting plate and winch onto it with bolts - then welded the bolt heads so it will take a grinder to get it back off. I also bent 1/8" steel in two loops and welded them around both ends of the winch, attached to the mounting plate. Arc welding is not my thing -
The tool/battery box is mounted on the forward hitch with 1/2" bolts and lock nuts - inside the box. I have a 7' Kyptonite cable with lock going around the lid to keep people out.
I replaced all four tiedown straps with 10,000 lb ratchets and J-hooks on both ends, and will take them off when not using them.I also rewired my 2003 SC Frontier to provide a 30-amp fused charging connector at the back, so I can plug in and charge the battery while moving. I sure hope this takes care of the thieves.
Last edited by grey99max; 06-15-2010 at 12:39 PM.
#34
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That's gonna be real hard to do. Notice the extreme security cables through all the wheels and axles, and secured with the biggest baddest padlocks that Master makes. Hmmmm.... of course, they could back up to it with another trailer and use my winch to pull it up onto their trailer!
Last edited by grey99max; 06-15-2010 at 12:30 PM.
#35
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Two or three times as much, depending on size. (mine was $1,900) I thought about that when I got mine, which is a 16ft+2ft-dovetail wood top trailer, but it weights over 2000 lb. The trailer and my car combined weigh a hair over 5500 lbs, the upper limit for my Frontier to pull. And pulling an enclosed trailer in a strong crosswind could be fatal....
Last edited by grey99max; 06-15-2010 at 12:40 PM.
#36
Two or three times as much, depending on size. (mine was $1,900) I thought about that when I got mine, which is a 16ft+2ft-dovetail wood top trailer, but it weights over 2000 lb. The trailer and my car combined weigh a hair over 5500 lbs, the upper limit for my Frontier to pull. And pulling an enclosed trailer in a strong crosswind could be fatal....
#37
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There's a devious mind at work here.... Dunno - supposedly the lock is made to withstand everything portable, but the cables are stainless aircraft cable with a plastic coating, so maybe with a bucket of liquid nitrogen, damage can be done. The catch is that if anyone moves my trailer out of the storage area, they will show up quite clearly on the hi-resolution cameras around the only exit gate - and some of those are hidden.....
#40
I think you'll be fine. The only thing I could see someone doing is drilling out the locks on the toolbox. On my toolbox I welded a steel plate with holes for a bolt lock directly to the box and lid.