Passenger side axle
09-06-2010, 07:13 PM
#1
Passenger side axle
Hey everyone I noticed when i was doing my teins that my passengers side axle boot has a smal tear in it, i figured ah no biggie i dont drive the car that often as it is, i went to go clean my wheels and wax it and noticed a large glob of axle grease on the wheel, so i didnt even have to lift the car to look at it, I already knew.
How tough at the axles to change out? I used to be a tech for vw and chevy a while back, and have rebuilt turbo motors and full suspensions in the past, but not on a maxima LOL.
I am just curious on how tough and how long of a job it will be, the car is a 3.5 automatic. I plan on going with raxles off the bat from what i read on here i would rather spend the money now than on some cheap ones from the foregin car store, and know that these will last a while.
Thanks
Jay
How tough at the axles to change out? I used to be a tech for vw and chevy a while back, and have rebuilt turbo motors and full suspensions in the past, but not on a maxima LOL.
I am just curious on how tough and how long of a job it will be, the car is a 3.5 automatic. I plan on going with raxles off the bat from what i read on here i would rather spend the money now than on some cheap ones from the foregin car store, and know that these will last a while.
Thanks
Jay
09-07-2010, 10:34 AM
#4
Do you have to remove the entire spindle and nut on the lower ball bearing to get the axle out? Or is there some sort of shortcut
09-07-2010, 10:49 AM
#5
axle changes are easier that they look. Especially the passanger side.
1. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands
2. take wheel off
3. stick screwdriver in the veins of the brake rotor to brace against caliper so it doesnt spin
4. break the axle nut loose with either a 32mm or 36mm socket and a breaker bar (or 1/2" wratchet with a long pipe) by pulling up.
5. Get underneath the car with a 12mm ratchet wrench and loosen the 3 bolts holding the cv axle to the bracket. (you can also get it using a ratchet and various extensions and swivels)
6. Loosen the 2 strut bolts using a 19mm on one side and a 17mm on the other to hold it. The hub will now be loose.
7. Manipulate the CV axle out of the hub. You can use a hammer to tap it out if its stubborn.
8. Now the cv axle should slide right out of the tranny easily.
Installation is just the oposite.
1. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands
2. take wheel off
3. stick screwdriver in the veins of the brake rotor to brace against caliper so it doesnt spin
4. break the axle nut loose with either a 32mm or 36mm socket and a breaker bar (or 1/2" wratchet with a long pipe) by pulling up.
5. Get underneath the car with a 12mm ratchet wrench and loosen the 3 bolts holding the cv axle to the bracket. (you can also get it using a ratchet and various extensions and swivels)
6. Loosen the 2 strut bolts using a 19mm on one side and a 17mm on the other to hold it. The hub will now be loose.
7. Manipulate the CV axle out of the hub. You can use a hammer to tap it out if its stubborn.
8. Now the cv axle should slide right out of the tranny easily.
Installation is just the oposite.
09-07-2010, 12:47 PM
#6
axle changes are easier that they look. Especially the passanger side.
1. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands
2. take wheel off
3. stick screwdriver in the veins of the brake rotor to brace against caliper so it doesnt spin
4. break the axle nut loose with either a 32mm or 36mm socket and a breaker bar (or 1/2" wratchet with a long pipe) by pulling up.
5. Get underneath the car with a 12mm ratchet wrench and loosen the 3 bolts holding the cv axle to the bracket. (you can also get it using a ratchet and various extensions and swivels)
6. Loosen the 2 strut bolts using a 19mm on one side and a 17mm on the other to hold it. The hub will now be loose.
7. Manipulate the CV axle out of the hub. You can use a hammer to tap it out if its stubborn.
8. Now the cv axle should slide right out of the tranny easily.
Installation is just the oposite.
1. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands
2. take wheel off
3. stick screwdriver in the veins of the brake rotor to brace against caliper so it doesnt spin
4. break the axle nut loose with either a 32mm or 36mm socket and a breaker bar (or 1/2" wratchet with a long pipe) by pulling up.
5. Get underneath the car with a 12mm ratchet wrench and loosen the 3 bolts holding the cv axle to the bracket. (you can also get it using a ratchet and various extensions and swivels)
6. Loosen the 2 strut bolts using a 19mm on one side and a 17mm on the other to hold it. The hub will now be loose.
7. Manipulate the CV axle out of the hub. You can use a hammer to tap it out if its stubborn.
8. Now the cv axle should slide right out of the tranny easily.
Installation is just the oposite.
Nice write up, just would like to add to your #4 that by pulling up, you mean, while looking at wheel, from the right side pulling up and turning nut to left still. Didn't want it to be read by some of the "not so mech. inclined" posters as pulling up on the wrong side, thus turning it the wrong way.
Also you can just keep the car on the ground and bust the axle nut loose first, then jack it up. The cars weight helps more that putting that screwdriver in the vein of the rotor against the brake caliper, since it usually is real hard to get off, if it's the first time.
09-07-2010, 01:52 PM
#8
Nice write up, just would like to add to your #4 that by pulling up, you mean, while looking at wheel, from the right side pulling up and turning nut to left still. Didn't want it to be read by some of the "not so mech. inclined" posters as pulling up on the wrong side, thus turning it the wrong way.
Also you can just keep the car on the ground and bust the axle nut loose first, then jack it up. The cars weight helps more that putting that screwdriver in the vein of the rotor against the brake caliper, since it usually is real hard to get off, if it's the first time.
Also you can just keep the car on the ground and bust the axle nut loose first, then jack it up. The cars weight helps more that putting that screwdriver in the vein of the rotor against the brake caliper, since it usually is real hard to get off, if it's the first time.
09-07-2010, 03:56 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 497
Tell me they aren't like the infamous "3 bolts" on the 3rd Gens. I was hoping Nissan changed that design. Also, I noticed no one mention draining the tranny fluid before popping out the axle? Is this only necessary on the manual?
Last edited by kbohip; 09-07-2010 at 03:58 PM.
09-08-2010, 06:29 AM
#10
Just put an oil pan under the seal when you pull the axle out. It doesnt drain that much gear oil to warrant draining the entire tranny, unless you wanna change all the gear oil out completely.
09-09-2010, 09:39 AM
#12
Thanks for all of the input everyone, that is how i did them on my vws with manual transmissions, but no fluid came out, that is what i was curious about.
I just called nissan and holy **** 550 my cost wholesale for a brand new one, or i can buy a brand new one from another place for about $75, im going to call Raxles and see what they can do for me, more than likely for now ill go with the $75 brand new one to get thru for now until i figure out 100% what i am going to do with the car.
Also with the car being lowered, will i be eating thru axles? i always have my alignment so i know its straight
I just called nissan and holy **** 550 my cost wholesale for a brand new one, or i can buy a brand new one from another place for about $75, im going to call Raxles and see what they can do for me, more than likely for now ill go with the $75 brand new one to get thru for now until i figure out 100% what i am going to do with the car.
Also with the car being lowered, will i be eating thru axles? i always have my alignment so i know its straight
09-09-2010, 10:45 AM
#13
why not do advance auto parts?
They have this GSP brand which is not reman, box says brand new.
I just did mine 2 weeks back. cost is 69.99 and right now i think there is a 25 off 60 coupon floating around with free order online, pickup in store.
They have this GSP brand which is not reman, box says brand new.
I just did mine 2 weeks back. cost is 69.99 and right now i think there is a 25 off 60 coupon floating around with free order online, pickup in store.
09-09-2010, 01:09 PM
#14
Well it comes down to warranty, my old car i got 2 new axles for and they had a lifetime warranty, and the bearings puked out on each one within a year.
The place i go thru takes care of us at the dealership i work at, and they offer a lifetime warranty on their axles. I wouldnt mind saving 20 bucks, but that is what it will come down to.
09-09-2010, 04:02 PM
#16
I need to my passenger axle as well. I called Raxles and they quoted me $140 per side for complete axles..... From what I hear their product is top notch. Im not sure of the life span of axles from Advanced auto parts.
09-09-2010, 08:07 PM
#17
My experience with the axle bearings is modest..... But just about everytime, the boot gets ripped somewhere and the grease gets out, ergo metal to metal. Add grit getting in there and it accelerates it even further
09-10-2010, 05:28 AM
#19
So - no special tools needed for an axle change?! --other than maybe a 32 or 36mm socket?!
Also - I remember reading that the axle nut needs to be properly torqued-down to an obscene spec -- like 235 ft/lbs?!?!?
That'll take a special wrench FOR SURE!
gr
Also - I remember reading that the axle nut needs to be properly torqued-down to an obscene spec -- like 235 ft/lbs?!?!?
That'll take a special wrench FOR SURE!
gr
09-10-2010, 05:39 AM
#20
Well if u call a breaker bar and a 2 ft pipe a special tool 
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
09-10-2010, 05:53 AM
#21
Well if u call a breaker bar and a 2 ft pipe a special tool
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
I carry a 2ft galvanized pipe "breaker bar" in my trunk tool bag at all times. Makes roadside tire repair easier than the OEM lug wrench.
Ha! I was going from memory on that Tq. Spec!! A WINNER!
gr
09-10-2010, 06:26 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Well if u call a breaker bar and a 2 ft pipe a special tool
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
Thats all I did, used my torque wrench to get it to 150 and then gave it a another 1/4 turn with the breaker bar with a pipe on it as extension. That got the nut nice and tight.
You are correct on the spec, it is 235 ft/lbs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boomerbrian
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
10-31-2018 10:25 AM
The Wizard
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
24
10-01-2015 08:47 PM
Dennis Twohy
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
0
10-01-2015 06:01 PM
