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'99 A/C Compressor Bearing Failure

Old 03-18-2010, 10:41 PM
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'99 A/C Compressor Bearing Failure

I think I know why my ac compressor was making a bad noise and started smoking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyViiScxERU





I have no clue what went wrong in there. Can anyone recommend a source for a new or refurbished compressor for a '99? Dealer wants over four hundred.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:11 AM
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Local breaker, but you run the risk of having the same issue. Throw a parts wanted up in the classifieds maybe someone has one. You can run will a smaller belt and bypass the compressor until you source one FWIW. You will want to install a new drier when you hang the new or new to you compressor.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:39 AM
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Rock Auto. $288.00 Great service all around.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:00 AM
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$263.79 at Advance and you don't have to pay shipping since it's over $75 and you could pick it up in a store anyway.
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:44 AM
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Good call, it's $211.00 if you use the 20% off 100 dollars and up coupon going on now!
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:55 AM
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You forgot to mention why I want a new drier? Besides that I'd rather get a rebuilt or new compressor. I was already running the small belt. I put it on before winter. Now that it's warm out I want my ac back and I went to fix it and discovered this mess. I was going to pull the pulley and replace the bearing and clutch as some people have talked about on here but I have come to the conclusion that I want a new part because it will be easier since I have someone to help me out with the ac discharge and recharge for $40.
Originally Posted by M in KC
Local breaker, but you run the risk of having the same issue. Throw a parts wanted up in the classifieds maybe someone has one. You can run will a smaller belt and bypass the compressor until you source one FWIW. You will want to install a new drier when you hang the new or new to you compressor.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:11 AM
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It's $20 off. Comes out to $244 shipped. Good deal. As cheap as I could find a rebuilt one online. I think this is the one I'm getting. If anyone has any tips about doing this job please let me know.

Originally Posted by JwaxMax99
Good call, it's $211.00 if you use the 20% off 100 dollars and up coupon going on now!
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
It's $20 off. Comes out to $244 shipped. Good deal. As cheap as I could find a rebuilt one online. I think this is the one I'm getting. If anyone has any tips about doing this job please let me know.
At Advance Auto Parts it comes out to $211 with the coupon code PS20 which is 20% off entire order.
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Old 05-03-2010, 04:43 PM
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Mine did the same exact thing about 2 months ago. I got stuck (in the car wash line actually, embarrassing enough) when it totally seized and was forced to get it towed.

I put a smaller belt on and am waiting for a paycheck before swapping a new clutch/bearing assembly in. It sucks having no A/C right now though....
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:04 PM
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where did you find a new clutch/bearing assembly at? everybody i talk to says you have to buy a whole new compressor.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
You forgot to mention why I want a new drier?
The drier acts like a filter for the AC system in which it helps remove moisture from the AC refrigerant. It needs to be replaced everytime the AC system has been opened for repair. Failing to replace it can cause the AC system to fail quickly.

Also just in case you didn't know. Some companies selling AC compressors will ask you for proof of purchasing a new drier if the compressor were to fail. Not having proof may void the warranty of the compressor.

I had to do this when I replaced the whole AC system on my Max from R-12 to R-134a.

EDIT: Ugh... didn't see the date the person posted that part. But this info can be useful for others.

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Old 05-15-2010, 09:38 PM
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I didn't buy a bearing. Trying to go down that route was a disaster so I bought a "new" ac compressor from advanced. Still need to buy a drier and I'm reading up on how to actually do this.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:41 AM
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Just took the compressor off and it has studs and nuts for the ac lines to attach them to the compressor but the new compressor doesn't have those studs. Did you guys use the new compressor ac line "caps" screws or did your new compressor have studs?
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:14 PM
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Anyone know which pins to use to jump the ac compressor via the pressure switch?
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:14 PM
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I tried jumping the drier/accumulator connector and the compressor clutch didn't engage. Anyone got any tips? I can't get the system to suck in the new refrigerant.
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:54 PM
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I personally

I always check car-part.com. It is part exchange for local junkyards. Easiest way to find used car parts. Like a junkyard around me has one for only $50
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:09 PM
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What pisses me off is why Nissan didn't recall this. AC compressors shouldnt just Fail at the bearing. It sucks. And $300 bucks is not easy. not to mention the Vacuum the refill and the R134a. I just don't get it. Anyway, I am getting a new compressor myself. 3 years without one and I am ready. plus the girls dont like it at the beach without one. lol And YES I am replacing my Dryer.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
You forgot to mention why I want a new drier? Besides that I'd rather get a rebuilt or new compressor. I was already running the small belt. I put it on before winter. Now that it's warm out I want my ac back and I went to fix it and discovered this mess. I was going to pull the pulley and replace the bearing and clutch as some people have talked about on here but I have come to the conclusion that I want a new part because it will be easier since I have someone to help me out with the ac discharge and recharge for $40.
Dude a dryer is $14 bucks. lol Just do it.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by S1cTech
What pisses me off is why Nissan didn't recall this. AC compressors shouldnt just Fail at the bearing. It sucks. And $300 bucks is not easy. not to mention the Vacuum the refill and the R134a. I just don't get it. Anyway, I am getting a new compressor myself. 3 years without one and I am ready. plus the girls dont like it at the beach without one. lol And YES I am replacing my Dryer.
Well, unfortunately Nissan is not the only compressor with this problem. I had the same bearing fail on a GM and a Dodge.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:06 AM
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Dude, I have a new compressor and drier from advanced. You also have to buy the pag 46 oil in the can so you can pour it into the compressor and then you need two cans of R134a+.

Originally Posted by S1cTech
Dude a dryer is $14 bucks. lol Just do it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:50 AM
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Trying to jump the pressure switch at the drier didn't work for me. I noticed the other rad fan turn on though so maybe I did jump it correctly but the ac clutch didn't engage. I just ran a wire from the compressor to the battery and the clutch turned on so I know the compressor is good. I also put in a can of r134a+ and tried connecting the compressor switch back to normal and tried the ac and the clutch is still not engaging. Guess I'll have to spend the rest of eternity going over the '98 HA fsm that I found online. Feel free to leave any help. Thanks.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:44 PM
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What's the warning signs for a compressor bearing going bad? I noticed that in that area (left side) of my engine I started having a whining sound that increases with the revs. Only really noticeable at idle up to ~2.5k.

I read somewhere it might be the belt tension bearing that went bad and makes the noise. Any ideas? Is it dangerous to drive with it like that, or is it just an annoyance and that's all?
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Maximo
What's the warning signs for a compressor bearing going bad? I noticed that in that area (left side) of my engine I started having a whining sound that increases with the revs. Only really noticeable at idle up to ~2.5k.

I read somewhere it might be the belt tension bearing that went bad and makes the noise. Any ideas? Is it dangerous to drive with it like that, or is it just an annoyance and that's all?
I had that whine for YEARS. Just recently diagnosed my ac bearing as going bad. I bypassed the AC untill i get it replaced. As soon as I did the whine went away and the car sounded like it did all those years ago when i bought it. Can hardly tell its on while sitting idle at a light.

You can take your belt off and turn all the pulleys by hand. If one is making a grinding like noise thats your problem. No other way to really know, since it could be any of the pulleys going bad.

Oh and if whatever bearing is bad seizes up, it will snap the belt. If that happens, you better hope your close to home.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:07 AM
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So do you think it would be a good idea to go to a junk yard and find a working one, or would it be better just to get a new one? I'm not sure I'd be able to swap it out myself, so most likely I'd have to take it to a shop and have them do the repair.

Problem is it's my daily driver, so I can't have it apart for more than 2 days (weekends) to really work on it.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:16 AM
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You can replace the ac compressor without even lifting the vehicle, no need to remove the wheel either. That's all just "easier" for noobs. When I first started doing this I would take my wheel off and crap... now I just slide under the car and can loosen or tighten the belt and can replace the ac compressor like that as well and my car is lowered. But you won't understand this 'till you go through the newb way of doing things, then you will see the light. lol

Originally Posted by 98Maximo
So do you think it would be a good idea to go to a junk yard and find a working one, or would it be better just to get a new one? I'm not sure I'd be able to swap it out myself, so most likely I'd have to take it to a shop and have them do the repair.

Problem is it's my daily driver, so I can't have it apart for more than 2 days (weekends) to really work on it.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Maximo
So do you think it would be a good idea to go to a junk yard and find a working one, or would it be better just to get a new one? I'm not sure I'd be able to swap it out myself, so most likely I'd have to take it to a shop and have them do the repair.

Problem is it's my daily driver, so I can't have it apart for more than 2 days (weekends) to really work on it.
Well if you went to the junkyard, you'd have to remove whatever part you want. Installation would just be the opposite when you get home.I doubt too many shops are going to be too keen on installing used parts. You'd probably be better off buying new if your gonna have a shop do the work.

Really it depends on which part is going bad. If its the AC bearing. Well a new bearing is around $20. But it can be a pain to change. I'm still working on mine. Good news is, if its your Ac bearing you can put a 36in belt on and bypass the Ac. That way you can still drive your car.

Step one is to figure out what part you need to replace. You can figure things out from there.
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mrglynis
Well if you went to the junkyard, you'd have to remove whatever part you want. Installation would just be the opposite when you get home.I doubt too many shops are going to be too keen on installing used parts. You'd probably be better off buying new if your gonna have a shop do the work.

Really it depends on which part is going bad. If its the AC bearing. Well a new bearing is around $20. But it can be a pain to change. I'm still working on mine. Good news is, if its your Ac bearing you can put a 36in belt on and bypass the Ac. That way you can still drive your car.

Step one is to figure out what part you need to replace. You can figure things out from there.
Yea, I'm thinking it might be worth putting the shorter belt on and working on getting the bearing replaced. Problem is I really don't want to do it for the next few months because I live in Phoenix, and it gets F-ing HOT right about now through Sept/Oct.

I may just buy a new one and swap it out. It didn't seem like it would be too hard to get to (checked it out when I was changing my oil last night). Is there something you have to do to let all the a/c coolant out first before you take off the compressor?
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Maximo
Yea, I'm thinking it might be worth putting the shorter belt on and working on getting the bearing replaced. Problem is I really don't want to do it for the next few months because I live in Phoenix, and it gets F-ing HOT right about now through Sept/Oct.

I may just buy a new one and swap it out. It didn't seem like it would be too hard to get to (checked it out when I was changing my oil last night). Is there something you have to do to let all the a/c coolant out first before you take off the compressor?
No its not too hard to get too. Theres only 4 14mm bolts holding the compressor to a bracket. Then of course there are the coolant line.

It is illegal to release to coolant into the air. I think you can buy/rent the equipment to do it yourself. Or just take it to a shop and ask them to evac your system. Then just R&R the compressor. Generally you should replace the dryer at the same time.

Afterwards take it back to the shop and have them recharge the system.

This whole thread is actually very informative regarding the exact job your looking to do.
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Old 05-23-2010, 09:28 PM
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Legally you're supposed to recover the gas that is inside the ac system. The best price I could find on a rebuilt compressor was $211 from advanced using the PS20 promotion code. I also bought a new drier. Both came with new o-rings. Also picked up a can of PAG46 oil and poured half (about 4 oz.) into the compressor and turned the clutch and let the compressor sit so the bearing would get lubed just like the instructions said. After putting everything back on the car I can't get my clutch to kick on. I powered it straight from the battery and it turned on and I put 1 can of r134a+ into the system but it still doesn't turn on by itself. Anyone who has visited the HA FSM knows what I'm going through...
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:15 AM
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^^^how did you get it to work or turn on without direct power?

Originally Posted by Quickywd01
You can replace the ac compressor without even lifting the vehicle, no need to remove the wheel either. That's all just "easier" for noobs. When I first started doing this I would take my wheel off and crap... now I just slide under the car and can loosen or tighten the belt and can replace the ac compressor like that as well and my car is lowered. But you won't understand this 'till you go through the newb way of doing things, then you will see the light. lol
^^^why would you go to the trouble of squeezing your hand from the bottom than just taking off the wheel and have a better angle to work with?...
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:02 PM
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This will only make sense if you know what I'm referrin to: I tried bypassing the pressure switch which should have engaged the compressor clutch although I just had the extra rad fan turn on and the enine idle up but no compressor enagement. The only way I can get my compressor clutch to enage is to take a piece of wire and touch the positive battery terminal while connecting the other end to the compressor clip which I disconnected so I could hook the wire to the little single power pin. And you're right, it's easier to work on the compressor with the wheel off.
Originally Posted by MaxiNone
^^^how did you get it to work or turn on without direct power?



^^^why would you go to the trouble of squeezing your hand from the bottom than just taking off the wheel and have a better angle to work with?...
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:07 PM
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FSM HA HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING

Dear fellow org members, I've follwed the steps in the HA FSM on how to do the self diagnostic. All went well except I can not get 52 to display. At 51 I can hit the DEF button and it cycles through and shows me the temps but I can't get it to show 52. When I press the rec button, which should display 52, it doesn't do anything. If someone could explain why 52 isn't showing up or what I'm doing wrong that would really help. And I still haven't been able to figure out why my compressor clutch isn't engaging. With the ac system running I see 25psi on the low side.

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Old 05-24-2010, 07:08 PM
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Where can we get the correct tool to remove the compressor clutch? I have attempted this with the one from AutoZone and it does not fit. Ended up using a puller and sure enough, the plate was seized up so hard from the water, that it bent and was unusable. I was able to get a used compressor but it is making a slight noise and might have to repeat this procedure to change the bearings.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:14 PM
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Ya gotta make one like that one dude who moded a geo tool. I haven't been able to source a proper tool. Good luck.
Originally Posted by Trini Boom
Where can we get the correct tool to remove the compressor clutch? I have attempted this with the one from AutoZone and it does not fit. Ended up using a puller and sure enough, the plate was seized up so hard from the water, that it bent and was unusable. I was able to get a used compressor but it is making a slight noise and might have to repeat this procedure to change the bearings.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
Ya gotta make one like that one dude who moded a geo tool. I haven't been able to source a proper tool. Good luck.
This is a problem here. The bearing replacement procedure would be effective if we had a proper tool to remove that clutch plate. The one mentioned in the FSM is no longer being made?
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:31 PM
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I agree. Its pretty lame that theres only 1 tool in existence that fits this particular job, and its apparently not for sale anywhere. Even if you get the right puller it doesnt come with the right attachments.

I got mine off by modifying the hold down wrench you rent from autozone. I rented a large "disk" remover as well. I used the bolts and nails method the other guy did. I got mine to pull out a little bit. But i bent the crap out of the hold down wrench. Looked like a "U" instead of being flat. lol. I then took a prybar and pried out while spinning the clutch. Got it most of the way out, but it would'nt go that last little bit. Finally i grabbed it with my hand and just wiggled it, and it came off. That was frustrating.

BTW I fixed the bent wrench with a 2x4 and a hammer. Good as new.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:05 PM
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Any pics or links as to how this "disk" remover looks? This could help a lot of us here.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
Any pics or links as to how this "disk" remover looks? This could help a lot of us here.
I'll see if i can get some pics up tomorrow. Really it was just a large bolt/screw. The part that pushes in the center while the "hooks" pull. At autozone they have a large picture board with the tools they rent. This particular part didnt have a pic. But it was listed as disk puller or some such thing. So i went with it. Like i said i wasnt even using a puller. I just rigged up the hold down wrench like the other guy rigged up the geo storm tool. It was quite a pain since i was doing mine while it was still on the car. Hard to keep things from falling out.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:13 AM
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Ok here are some pics of what i used. I'll just link to them since i didnt feel like resizing.
This is the wrench i used. Rented from Autozone


This is the extractor bolt. Also rented from autozone.


Bolts/washers/nuts


Finished product



Yes the bolts are bent. Like i said earlier, i ended up bending the wrench and the bolts. Clutch plate just didnt want to come off. Again this wasnt easy to do with it being on the car. Its a pain to get everything lined up, but its the best i could come up with, and it at least got it started coming off.

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Old 05-25-2010, 12:17 PM
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^^^i was wondering if you can take off the clutch plate while it being on the car. i figured it wouldnt be easy...
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