Battery being drained even after alternator replacement
01-06-2010, 04:20 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 54
Battery drained even after alternator replacement. (Any NJ electrical mechanic?)
I am posting this again since the old thread started to lose control and got buried; therefore I am providing complete update here and hopefully we can bring the car back to life. I wish to apologize in advance in case anyone gets offended.
Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!
I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.
Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!
I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.
Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-09-2010 at 08:16 AM.
01-06-2010, 05:03 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 102
was the battery fully charged after the alternator was installed? i had the same issue bad alternator well it was dead already and the car was running on the battery. when the battery was drained the car shut down and nothing electrical worked. i installed the new remanufact alternator but did not charge the battery. got the battery charged and replaced the alternator for another one since i burned out the new one. that was my issue have you tried that?
01-06-2010, 08:07 PM
#3
Define 'being drained'. How are you measuring this drain?
Have you tested for a parasitic drain? You say you pulled fuses, but mention nothing of an ammeter.
You were told it 'may have been' the alternator, but did not have it tested?
Have you had the batter{y,ies} tested? You say that it is good, but neglect to mention a proper load test.
Have you tested for a parasitic drain? You say you pulled fuses, but mention nothing of an ammeter.
You were told it 'may have been' the alternator, but did not have it tested?
Have you had the batter{y,ies} tested? You say that it is good, but neglect to mention a proper load test.
01-07-2010, 06:41 PM
#4
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Location: Central NJ
Posts: 54
Sorry if I missed some information earlier: Here's another attempt.
Battery had been fully charged when the voltmeter/drainage test was being conducted since something was draining the battery with the existing/factory alternator, sitting volts were around 12.5 (car off) and when started, it would go down around 11.5-11.8 (can't recall exact #). Fuses were pulled (with car off) and then tested fuses, pulling 1 fuse at a time, in/out - to see if the reading drops below 35 milliamps.
Alternator was replaced (thinking alternator may have been the culprit doing the drainage), after the new alternator was installed (took the core alternator tested at AutoZone and it passed), did the drainage test again (on the newAutoZone alternator) and same issue. (With charged battery - used buddy of mine off his car as well).
Battery had been fully charged when the voltmeter/drainage test was being conducted since something was draining the battery with the existing/factory alternator, sitting volts were around 12.5 (car off) and when started, it would go down around 11.5-11.8 (can't recall exact #). Fuses were pulled (with car off) and then tested fuses, pulling 1 fuse at a time, in/out - to see if the reading drops below 35 milliamps.
Alternator was replaced (thinking alternator may have been the culprit doing the drainage), after the new alternator was installed (took the core alternator tested at AutoZone and it passed), did the drainage test again (on the newAutoZone alternator) and same issue. (With charged battery - used buddy of mine off his car as well).
Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-09-2010 at 02:52 PM.
01-07-2010, 07:02 PM
#5
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Location: va
Posts: 115
i think i have the same problem u having.. i just went to the place i got my amp and subs installed and they disconnected the amplifier, the aftermarket remote start and alarm, the radio deck.. i replaced the batteryand altenator.. and they tested the battery and they told me something factory is constantly on even will the car is off. they also told me that the most drainage should happen is supposed to be .045.. mines is at.85 wen everything is diconnected and the car is off. im thinking since the car has a factory theft alarm.. it could be that
01-08-2010, 08:47 AM
#6
See:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rain-help.html
I checked my 98 SE which works normally and does not have this problem. I opened my hood and checked current with everything else off and closed. The draw was approximately 0.1 Amps = to 100 milliamps. This is the same as Matt's result. If I depress the switch that senses if the hood is closed after about 30-60 seconds the current draw goes down to about 0.01 Amps or 10 milliamps. This must be the sleep mode kicking in. That is quite a a difference. I can understand if another switch from the alarm system is malfunctioning, of missing, the car would never go into sleep mode.
I'm not certain if the 0.1 Amps is enough to drain the battery over the period of 1-2 days but you certainly should fix it to work properly as noted above so that it does go into the sleep mode.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rain-help.html
I checked my 98 SE which works normally and does not have this problem. I opened my hood and checked current with everything else off and closed. The draw was approximately 0.1 Amps = to 100 milliamps. This is the same as Matt's result. If I depress the switch that senses if the hood is closed after about 30-60 seconds the current draw goes down to about 0.01 Amps or 10 milliamps. This must be the sleep mode kicking in. That is quite a a difference. I can understand if another switch from the alarm system is malfunctioning, of missing, the car would never go into sleep mode.
I'm not certain if the 0.1 Amps is enough to drain the battery over the period of 1-2 days but you certainly should fix it to work properly as noted above so that it does go into the sleep mode.
01-08-2010, 10:36 AM
#7
nopike, you are exactly right. Current draw of 0.1 amps is enough to give a no start situation. Espically after sitting for a few days.
Here's is what I would check. The security system first. It needs to recognize that the car is in sleep mode. When I had my drain issue, the trunk sensor was faulty and therefore the car could not enter the sleep mode. In my case, the factory alarm kept thinking that the trunk was open when I know that was clearly not the case. So, check your door switches, hood and trunk swithces. Chances are one of them is bad.
I didn't read through the whole post, so I am wondering where you got the alternator from? Rebuild shops typically don't use digital load testers on their alternators and if you are have a "rebuilt" or new alternator from one of the "crooked shops" their equipment is not accurate enough to display 0 volts (or whatever) being put out of the alternator. On the bench, the first alternator I replaced register fine, but when it was in my car... flashing alt and battery lights. Never did they come on solid. THe nissan one works just fine. Much more expensive but price comes with peace of mind.
If I am right, how about you donate the 15 bucks to me directly? lol
Here's is what I would check. The security system first. It needs to recognize that the car is in sleep mode. When I had my drain issue, the trunk sensor was faulty and therefore the car could not enter the sleep mode. In my case, the factory alarm kept thinking that the trunk was open when I know that was clearly not the case. So, check your door switches, hood and trunk swithces. Chances are one of them is bad.
I didn't read through the whole post, so I am wondering where you got the alternator from? Rebuild shops typically don't use digital load testers on their alternators and if you are have a "rebuilt" or new alternator from one of the "crooked shops" their equipment is not accurate enough to display 0 volts (or whatever) being put out of the alternator. On the bench, the first alternator I replaced register fine, but when it was in my car... flashing alt and battery lights. Never did they come on solid. THe nissan one works just fine. Much more expensive but price comes with peace of mind.
If I am right, how about you donate the 15 bucks to me directly? lol
Last edited by JSMax; 01-08-2010 at 10:41 AM.
01-09-2010, 08:15 AM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 54
JSMax:
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).
In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).
In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
01-09-2010, 08:35 AM
#9
JSMax:
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).
In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).
In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
The car won't go into sleep mode if the alarm is faulty/not allowing it to go there. Or, you take the car into nissan, have them do a diagnostic on it and see. It will cost you a few dollars (i will contribute the $15 you were going to give me lol) and tell them you want to fix it yourself. Peace of mind really. My car sat for almost 3 weeks before I gave up and took it in to the dealership.
I had a starter fail on the first attempted startup. Was a rebuilt one from part-source (the canadian version of autozone). Put the nissan genuine one in and 3 years later still no problems.
In your o.p. you state that your battery is being drain upon start up. That's normal, and your alternator is responsible for replacing that charge. The voltage regulator in your alternator may be faulty even if it's a new/rebuilt alternator. You can't change your regulator without changing your alternator.
Last edited by JSMax; 01-09-2010 at 09:20 AM.
01-09-2010, 02:17 PM
#10
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Ok, I have been experiencing the same problem with my 97 maxima. I replaced the battery and it was still putting out less then 12.00 volts. I put in a alternator from advance auto and it did the same thing, the battery was getting drained. I tried the remove the battery cable while it was running trick, and the car shut off indicating a bad alternator. I then started looking at the large battery fuse (160amp i think) located in the fusebox to the right of the battery if you are standing infront of the car and looking at the car. While the car was running and i had my voltmeter on the battery, I tried to wiggle that large battery fuse in the middle of that fuse box. I think it is like 160 amps or something. When I wiggled it or pressed it to one side or the other, the multimeter jumped up to 14.00 volts+. So I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the fuse box to the drivers side inner fender area and pulled it upward away from the inner fender (this was done with the battery out of the car). There is a screw on one side of this fuse and a 10mm bolt on the otherside. You might want to check to make sure these bolts are tight and/or that fuse it is not blown. There is also a 7.5amp fuse in that same fuse box for the alternator named alt. Check this as well and see if it is ok. I hope this helps, and this is the problem as it was the probelm with mine.
01-12-2010, 05:07 PM
#11
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Location: Central NJ
Posts: 54
JSMax - When I took my old/nissan alternator back to AZ, they tested and confirmed that it was good. That was another assurance that alternator is/was not the issue. And, now I am with AZ's alternator. As for taking the car at the dealership, it's going to be a challenge and ofcourse would hate for them to tell me all the other things that are wrong with it and after few hundred dollars, the issue remains. But, if/when I do get annoyed enough, I may as well. 
Also, I got a brand spanking new battery which I haven't plugged in yet - afraid it may drain again therefore waiting for a bit warmer weather to go in the garage.
dsrmaxima - will try that as well once I plug in all the goodies to test it and will report back soon. Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
Also, I got a brand spanking new battery which I haven't plugged in yet - afraid it may drain again therefore waiting for a bit warmer weather to go in the garage.
dsrmaxima - will try that as well once I plug in all the goodies to test it and will report back soon. Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-12-2010 at 05:40 PM.
02-05-2010, 11:35 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
I am posting this again since the old thread started to lose control and got buried; therefore I am providing complete update here and hopefully we can bring the car back to life. I wish to apologize in advance in case anyone gets offended.
Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!
I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.
Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!
I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.
02-06-2010, 06:52 PM
#15
you're describing the exact same thing that is happening to my '98 max. i thought it was the battery so i got a new one...same result. next, i changed the alternator. car would start but dies a minute later. if i use a battery charger, car would start and stays on but as soon as i took off the charger, car dies right away. i have no idea what's causing the problem now. any advice would help. thanks in advance.
02-07-2010, 10:24 AM
#18
the grounds from the battery.
And do a parasitic drain test.
Check the connectivity of the grounds. Clean up the contact patch and use some di-electric grease.
Also, clean up the battery terminals while your under there and in that area.
And do a parasitic drain test.
Check the connectivity of the grounds. Clean up the contact patch and use some di-electric grease.
Also, clean up the battery terminals while your under there and in that area.
Last edited by JSMax; 02-07-2010 at 07:06 PM.
02-07-2010, 01:31 PM
#20
Did you check the fusible link in the fuse box under the hood? Its in the box next to the air filter, it should be the biggest one and says [Battery] on the case of the fuse box. Your battery won't charge if this is blown
02-07-2010, 05:45 PM
#21
Good to check fusible links but there are no links between the battery and the headlights. I would focus on the battery negative terminal ground to the vehicle frame. Consider running a second ground wire from negative terminal to the frame temporarily to see if that helps. Also the positive connection at the battery may be loose or poorly connected. Other then the battery connections there is not much else that can go wrong in the headlight circuit that would also cause the vehicle to lose all power.
Last edited by Nopike; 02-07-2010 at 05:48 PM.
04-13-2010, 09:12 AM
#23
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
UPDATE: Car fixed!! i think!!!!
ok, so after the car has been sitting in my garage for over a month, i finally gave up and had it tolled to firestone auto service. the report came back saying that the alternator was bad, the battery was bad, and had a blown battery fuse (120amp Maxi fuse). the funny thing is that i bought a new alternator and battery and checked the fuses and they were all good. regardless, i paid $115 for the diagnostic and was told to change those again and it should fix the problem. if it doesn't, they'll investigate further, which i'll be charged again.
so i took the battery and alternator to get them exchanged since both were still under warranty. had both checked and found to the battery to be bad but had a good alternator. but i insisted on a new alternator. i then ordered a 120amp maxi fuse from nissan, which cost $22.00. while installing the battery, i also took out the negative battery wire and clean it really good since it was all rusted; i also clean the contact points on the chassis and engine block. after i installed all 3, crossed my fingers, and started the car. car started right up and ran for a good 10 minutes without stalling or any weird noises. all the warning lights went away (SRS, ABS, CEL, etc...) also. i haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but by the sound of it, it looks good.
i'll update on this further after a test drive.
so i took the battery and alternator to get them exchanged since both were still under warranty. had both checked and found to the battery to be bad but had a good alternator. but i insisted on a new alternator. i then ordered a 120amp maxi fuse from nissan, which cost $22.00. while installing the battery, i also took out the negative battery wire and clean it really good since it was all rusted; i also clean the contact points on the chassis and engine block. after i installed all 3, crossed my fingers, and started the car. car started right up and ran for a good 10 minutes without stalling or any weird noises. all the warning lights went away (SRS, ABS, CEL, etc...) also. i haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but by the sound of it, it looks good.
i'll update on this further after a test drive.
Last edited by imports_only1; 04-13-2010 at 09:20 AM. Reason: grammar correction
04-15-2010, 12:55 PM
#25
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
not so fast.....JSMax.
i drove it yesterday and all was fine until today. same thing again....while driving, all lights started to flash, studder, and die while in gear. it cranks very weak like it got no power so it won't start. checked the 120amp fuse and it's still good. all connections are tight. freakin maxima....i'm about to toss this piece of junk! wasted so much money on it already!
again, i'm stranded away from my house and will require a tow truck. piece of junk!
i drove it yesterday and all was fine until today. same thing again....while driving, all lights started to flash, studder, and die while in gear. it cranks very weak like it got no power so it won't start. checked the 120amp fuse and it's still good. all connections are tight. freakin maxima....i'm about to toss this piece of junk! wasted so much money on it already!
again, i'm stranded away from my house and will require a tow truck. piece of junk!
Last edited by imports_only1; 04-15-2010 at 12:58 PM.
04-22-2010, 08:59 AM
#26
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 173
UPDATE.....i think it's really fixed this time!
ok...to continue where i left off being stranded.....i took out the battery and took it to this mechanic place to have it charged knowing it was discharged. it turns out the battery was at 5%. after an hour of charging the battery, i reinstalled it again and drove the max 1/2 a mile back to the mechanic place. i told the mechanic the situation and what i have changed. he said he'll look into it to see what the problem is. a day later, he called me up and said the alternator is bad but the battery is still good. my luck...2 bad alternators.
in short, i exchanged that bad alternator for a new reman. from advance auto again. the guy put it in.....and it wasn't charging. he looked further and found a positive lead wire to the alternator that was touching bare metal on the car chassis causing sparks. fixed that wire and been driving it for 2 days now without stalling. i hope it's really fixed now!
in short, i exchanged that bad alternator for a new reman. from advance auto again. the guy put it in.....and it wasn't charging. he looked further and found a positive lead wire to the alternator that was touching bare metal on the car chassis causing sparks. fixed that wire and been driving it for 2 days now without stalling. i hope it's really fixed now!
05-04-2010, 01:40 AM
#27
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yes can any1 help im desperate my 97 maxima has a drain if i drive it everyday it still runs but after2 days the lights wont light and t wont start ive tried taking 1 fuse out at a time but it didnt work the only issue is 2 of my light sockets have miner shorts the pass. side headlight and pass. side marker light would this do it if not im helpless i really like my car just need to find this drain i dont have a remote for the antitheft does this matter and what else could it be i really need help please any suggestions thanks in advance for any imput.
05-04-2010, 01:45 AM
#28
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just me again i forgot to mention the driverside mirror is missing to ive ordered a new 1 i just dont know what else could be draining is there something im missing is this a common problem is it a fuseable link drain or could it be nonfuseable me and my machanic both are stumped im freaking out over this i just got the car like a month ago had another i was driving til today so gain thanks in advance i hope some1 can help me i really need it.
05-04-2010, 04:56 AM
#29
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Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 191
^Holy run-on sentences, Batman!
What in the world could a 'miner short' (sic) be? A short circuit is caused when positive and negative ends of a circuit are connected directly. I guess if the wires just barely touch, that could be considered a minor short. Depending on where that short is exactly, it's probably the source of your problem.
What in the world could a 'miner short' (sic) be? A short circuit is caused when positive and negative ends of a circuit are connected directly. I guess if the wires just barely touch, that could be considered a minor short. Depending on where that short is exactly, it's probably the source of your problem.
05-04-2010, 06:19 AM
#30
First off, was it ever confirmed that your alternator wasn't putting out more than 12.
How many amps is your new one, and what exactly do you have in your car electrical.
I just changed mine yesterday because the same thing happened to me and she is running beautifully.
How many amps is your new one, and what exactly do you have in your car electrical.
I just changed mine yesterday because the same thing happened to me and she is running beautifully.
05-04-2010, 09:09 PM
#31
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first off thanks for imfo but i havnt changed the alternator yet i only went through the fuses 1 by 1 and still have the drain it has a new starter and battery im gonna change the alternator tom. do you think thats where the drain is commin from is that a normal issue thanks again for the imput sorry for the long sentences im just trying to let you know whats its all doin .
05-05-2010, 03:59 AM
#32
I had this problem on a different car a long time ago. I used to have to pull the negative terminal over night. The problem never went away until the alternator failed again. After changing the alternator for the second time I continued to do the battery thing figuring it was something else draining it. One night I forgot to remove the cable and figured the car would not start, started fine ever since.
Turns out the voltage regulator was loading the battery. I would change the voltage regulator if you can or the whole alternator and see if you still have a load.
Good Luck.
Turns out the voltage regulator was loading the battery. I would change the voltage regulator if you can or the whole alternator and see if you still have a load.
Good Luck.
05-05-2010, 10:11 AM
#33
I say change the alt and charge ya battery and call it a day. Thats just my vote though. You can do everything in your power, but if that alt is going bad, its simply gonna keep juicing your battery...
05-30-2010, 06:52 AM
#36
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE...
another thing to check if the cluster was every tampered with (not illegally), meaning you took it out to do something on the dash etc.
MAKE SURE the plugs in the back are securly in. I dont think the battery charges when the plug isnt plugged in all the way. The charging system goes through the cluster to finish the charging circuit.
1. when my car died at work I wondered why... but then after reading the FSM and charging system, I realized the only thing I fiddled with was the cluster when this began.
another thing to check if the cluster was every tampered with (not illegally), meaning you took it out to do something on the dash etc.
MAKE SURE the plugs in the back are securly in. I dont think the battery charges when the plug isnt plugged in all the way. The charging system goes through the cluster to finish the charging circuit.
1. when my car died at work I wondered why... but then after reading the FSM and charging system, I realized the only thing I fiddled with was the cluster when this began.
08-11-2013, 08:54 PM
#37
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
I'm having a similar issue...
Hello,
I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
08-12-2013, 01:53 PM
#38
Hello,
I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
Can you measure system voltage at the back of the alternator, then again at the battery? If you want to avoid math, you could just do a voltage drop test on the battery positive cable.
08-13-2013, 09:03 AM
#39
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 147
Similar issues why??
Same happened to my 96 about 2 months ago, car shut off while driving one night. altenator was bad so i replaced along with new battery. everything was but i noticed this week that something is starting to drain the battery again.. anybody fixed this yet???
01-09-2015, 02:44 PM
#40
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 4
What do I do to fix this problem? The battery light in the cluster does not stay on with the key in the ON position like the other lights but it does turn on for a split second then turn off making me believe the bulb is still good.
