Nakulbhatt87

iTrader: (1)

Any have a how to for replacing the CV boot or entire axle for a 5th gen?

AlpineGt66

iTrader: (8)

which side?

Nakulbhatt87

iTrader: (1)

I've got a rip for sure in the boot on the driver's side...but im not sure about the passenger side. I caught a glimpse of the rip when i was replacing my fog bulb. Im getting a subtle click as we speak from the driver side. Would you suggest doing the cv boot or just the entire axle at this point?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Replace the axle.

Get a Chiltons or Haynes manual, or download the FSM for free
Loosen lugnuts
Jack up the car
Drain the transmission
Remove axle nut - Better have a big breaker bar and man up! 250+ ft/lbs tq
Disconnect tie-rod
Remove lower strut bolts
Remove the axle
Replace seal on transmission
Install in reverse order
Make sure to grease threads on the axle shaft
Torque everything to spec.

AlpineGt66

iTrader: (8)

yup, get a raxle call it a day.

BLACKKILA.GTR

iTrader: (16)

is this for the right side axel

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

NO! He said, and I quote... "I've got a rip for sure in the boot on the driver's side..."

Last time I checked, that was on the left...

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

Indeed

Make sure you DO NOT mess with the circlip ring on the ends of the cv axles.

Drockb418

iTrader: (10)

i dont think you have to drain the fluid at least for the driver side

BLACKKILA.GTR

iTrader: (16)

HEY SMART GUY
i was asking about the directions someone put out in the thread, they didnt state weather it was foR the left or right side SMART GUY!
THANK YOU

BLACKKILA.GTR

iTrader: (16)

yeah i was thinking the same thing , i didnt drain mine..

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Hey DUMB GUY, he said the drivers side, and I was the one that posted the directions, for the DRIVERS SIDE like he requested, DUMB GUY! Why would I post directions for the RIGHT SIDE when he CLEARLY stated DRIVERS SIDE DUMB GUY. LAST I CHECKED, HERE IN THE GOOD OLD US OF A, THE DRIVERS SIDE IS ALWAYS ON THE LEFT, DUMB GUY.

You contributed NOTHING but attitude to this thread. I suggest you bring something USEFUL to the table other than name calling, or don't post any further. If you can't control yourself, I'll do it for you. How do you like them apples? Check out the color of your user name before you run your mouth with smart guy comments any further.

ando

Does anyone know the part number for the passenger side axle seal? Also I pulled the axle out and the dust shield that is normally up against the seal came off (with the axle). Do I need to reuse this dust shield or is that part of a new seal?
I assume I need to get this part from Nissan - Autozone couldn't get me one.

ando

one more question please. how do you remove the old axle seal? It's so far back I can't see how this can be done.

Thanks in advance.

Ando

imported_dave_a

Just wanted to see if you replaced your CV axles and if so did you have any other problems after replacing? Thanks

Dave

BLacKMax69

Need help!! I'm having a hard time getting the pass side drive shaft out...i removed the bracket from the block...and finally got the 3 bolts that attach the axle to the bracket...but its rusted together....I can pull the axle and bracket through the small opening...i also smashed my oil pressure switch....what are my options....I've done a search and found the http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401 site and looked at http://boredmder.com/FSM/Infiniti/I30/2000/ but WTF theres no exact instructions as to removing the bracket...any help would be appreciated. Thanks

mandyfig

FSM= Factory Service Manual

Found it and downloaded. The Maintenance section is corrupted and I can not download.

Trying to find this section right now. I downloaded a European version which is not exactly right for the US.

Thanks to VQPOWER.

Professor

iTrader: (4)

Its very easy just time consuming, i did both mine 2 weeks ago, i jacked up and out her on jack stands, removed the wheel, caliber, rotor, brake pads, abs sensor, Use a breaker bar with a large pipe if the bolt is stubborn, 32mm socket, should do this with the brakes still on, have someone hold the brake pedal so the wheel wont turn when you break the axle nut loose, the fun part, use a 12mm gear wrench to get the 3 bolts off on the carrier bearing, you may need a air hammer to push the cv axle bearing out , i had too. then it just slides right out, the gear wrench is the best tool to get them 3 carrier bearing bolts out.

mandyfig

The FSM details this repair. Good that we have the FSM to refer to.

mandyfig

Now it is my time to do this axle replacement, my boot is busted on the pass side.

32 mm for the axle nut, right?

Professor

iTrader: (4)

Yep 32 MM, once you get the car secured on jack stands have someone apply the brakes and hold them, get your 32mm socket and a Breaker bar, you might have to use a pipe on the breaker bar like i did to break them loose.

mandyfig

PB blaster will help, right? Need to get a 32mm socket!

mandyfig

If I attempt to do this, I will certainly take my time and do a DIY. But I must admit this would be the biggest thing I will attempt to do mechanically. What scraes me is the discussion about...is it in...or is it still out?

jvienneau

It's better to loosen the axle bolt before you jack it up. That's what the FSM recommends as well.

slyk

Help!!!

I can't get the passenger side bearing out of the carrier! It's rusted solid to it!

Any tips?

mandyfig

PB Blaster, let it stay overnight.

slyk

Liquid Wrench OK? Can't exactly hop into my car and go get anything else at the moment..

will I do better with an air hammer on it (to loosen it) or an air chisel (to pry between the carrier and the bearing)? I dont have an air compressor or any tools, but I am at my wits end with this as I've been working on this one thing for the past 4 hours.

Just about to get it towed to the nearest mechanic and let them deal with it the rest of the way...

mandyfig

Liquid Wrench and let it soak, give it a rest, rest tonight and go at it again tomorrow. It will give in.

Or else, let somebody take care of it.

A long pipe and a breaker bar will get it done.

slyk

It's not the axle nut I'm trying to get...it's the carrier bearing from the support mount on the passenger side. It's frozen SOLID! I have the driver's side axle out and the passenger side out of the steering knuckle, but the axle won't come out at all!

So frustrating.

aleem

i recently replaced transmission on my max... the passenger side axle was a pain in the *** to remove... i took off the control arm it helped. lmk if u need some assistance i can take out some pictures for u. i also broke my lil switch lol

slyk

Finally got this job completed....what a PITA. It will be so easy next time around as I loaded up the carrier with anti-seize compound. Sadly, I don't think this car will make it to a next time (160k miles and 10 years on the original axles)....but I guess we never know with these aftermarket drive axles.

The most frustrating thing is that I broke the ABS sensor on the driver's side trying to get it removed. I left it in on the passenger side and am assuming it works fine still...

To anyone else having trouble with the passenger side in the future, here's how I finally got the job done:
I removed the mount from the engine, loosened the LCA and brought the whole thing out that way. I then could work on removing the bearing support carrier outside the vehicle -- and it took a LOT of beating with a hammer to get them separated. What a crappy deal.

Anyway, thanks all for the help and support.

mandyfig

You know what, I am bringing my axle to the shop and will pay the 1 hour ($80)charge to install it, then I will watch how they do it!

rickylabracio

iTrader: (2)

It really was'nt that bad actually, you should have saved the $.

slyk

I wouldn't pay to have this done -- as much as mine was a PITA, I learned a few things along the way and could do another pair in less than 3 hours I'm guessing, even if I had the rust issue again (because now I know how to deal with it)

mandyfig

Are you posting detailed DIY?

slyk

Unfortunately I didn't take pictures...but it's not that difficult. I will post the steps here, and then continue to monitor the topic and can field any questions you might have.

This was on a 2000 SE:
Start on the passenger side. Be sure to place a container under the transmission to catch any fluid that comes out when removing the axles.
1. Remove your wheels with a 21mm socket for the lug nuts
2. Pop out the center axle cover from the wheels
3. Remove the cotter pin from the axle
4. Put the wheel back on (only if you do not have an impact wrench) and lower the car to the ground
5. Use a 32mm socket on the axle nut, a large breaker bar, and possibly a larger cheater (I used a 4 ft. pipe) to loosen the axle nut
6. If you put the wheel back on, jack the car back up and remove it at this time.
7. Take the axle nut completely off and hit the end of the axle with a rubber dead blow hammer (so you don't damage the threads) until the axle moves into the wheel hub area, at that point you know it's loose.
8. Remove the two lower strut bolts (I used a 3/4 wrench on one side and a 17mm socket on the other, but the 3/4 side probably has a metric that's closer to the right size -- this worked for me though).
9. Rotate the wheel hub to the side so that you can pull the axle out of the hub, and pull the axle out.
10. Get underneath the car and remove the 3 bolts on the axle carrier bearing. You'll need a 12mm wrench for this -- a gear wrench works pretty well.
11. Pray your carrier bearing is not rusted to the carrier
12. Yank on the end of the axle. If it comes out of the transmission, skip to step 17.
13. Since it didn't come out, you need to use a 14mm socket to take out the 3 bolts holding the carrier to the engine. Also remove the side plastic panel to give you more space to work.
14. Use a 22mm socket to loosen the four bolts on the swing link of the lower control arm (they are 4 identical bolts in a row, hard to miss). You want to get the end to drop just a couple inches.
15. Unplug the oil pressure sensor (near the oil filter) to prevent damage.
16. Yank on the end of the axle again, and work the whole carrier assembly out of the opening you've created.
17. Replace the tranny seal only if you had a leak before or it was damaged upon axle removal -- it's a PITA to take out and another PITA to get back in correctly.
18. Put anti-seize on the carrier bracket. Reinstall the bracket onto the motor first if you had to remove it.
-----
Switch to the driver's side and repeat steps 1-9 above. Then go to step 19 below. BEFORE pulling the driver's axle out, take a look at the gap between the thick part of the axle and the transmission. This will help you determine if it's seated properly upon reinstallation.

19. You can get the axle out one of two ways on the driver's side. The FSM says to put a screw driver in the from the passenger side, over the pinion mate shaft, onto the inside end of the axle, and hit the screw driver with a hammer to dislodge the driver's side axle. I had good success using a pry bar underneath the car and simply prying the axle out of the transmission (it takes a pretty good force to get it out!).
20. Again, only replace the drive shaft seal in the transmission if it was damaged while removing the drive shafts or if you had a leak before.
21. Wrap the boots of the new axles with real towels to prevent damage upon installation.
22. Slide the driver's side axle into the transmission and slam it home. Check to be sure it's seated properly.
23. Work the outside of the axle into the wheel hub.
24. Reattach the lower strut bolts to the wheel hub and then remove the shop towels from the CV boots.
25. Put the wheel back on and lower the car.
26. Torque the axle nut to 208 ft-lbs
27. Remove the wheel.
28. Insert the cotter pin again and bend the end around.
29. Put the wheel back on.
---
switch back to the passenger side
30. Insert the drive shaft into the transmission until the carrier bearing mates with the carrier bracket
31. Put the 3 bolts back in the carrier bracket and into the carrier bearing.
32. Tighten the lower control arm bolts back to 108 ft-lbs
33. Insert the outside end of the drive shaft into the wheel hub
34. Re-attach the lower strut bolts to the wheel hub and then remove the shop towel from the CV boots.
35. Put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground
36. Tighten the axle nut to 208 ft-lbs
37. Take the wheel off.
38. Put the cotter pin back in and bend the end.
39. Put the wheel back on.
40. REFILL THE TRANSMISSION with fluid equal to the amount lost.

Drink a cold beverage of your choosing because you just saved yourself some cash.

ETA: This was on an Auto with ABS and no LSD

mandyfig

Thanks this is great!

eturnl

Guys, On a 98 SE 5speed, how can you tell if the driver side axle is inserted properly? Mine has some play in it as though it is not fully inserted, and there is a small leak. (This was observed with the front end lifted and only the wheel removed)
I replaced my axles a couple years ago, and it was fine. Back then, I probably knew it was was inserted because I knew how it was before I removed it.
However, this last job was was done by a mechanic. :-( (same axle - just removed to replace motor) So I don't know. It doesn't seem normal. There appears to be more play that there should be.

Any ideas?

soto2635

iTrader: (3)

i did mine today wat a pain in the a$$