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I used a 14mm ratcheting wrench, from below. The open end stuck out just far enough past the axle for me to push up on it with a hammer handle to break the nut loose. After that, a lot of ratcheting. It was an entertaining test of manual dexterity.
I couldn't tell what loosening that nut did, exactly. So I didn't know how loose it needed to be. I nearly took it all the way off I think.
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