|
I have been on "top" of my rust issue in this area over the last couple years. Its to expensive to be fixed correctly (seen quotes up to 4K) with a cut, reweld and refinish.
My first "tackle" on the job was to sand down, and POR15 the area. Within a year it started to "seep" through again. I suspect I didnt get it all sealed up correctly. The car was in an accident and they said they would "fix" it. Ho ho ho.
The second job was a body shop "fixing" it. They sanded and put paint on top and then rubberzed body coating on top of it. That didnt last four months prior to the rust REALLY showing up.
The third tackle on the job I am finishing up this weekend. I have used a wire wheel and ground out all the visible rust I can possibly on the upper lip (faces inside wheel well) and lower lip (faces tire). I then used a stone bit to grind it down further and then smoothed the area with sanding wheels.
I have used the Zinc prep from the POR15 kit I had and have coated with a spray "Rust convertor" as well. I have now applied the "Rust encapsulator" and will apply another coat of POR15 on top of that. When that is done, I am going to put spray Rhino coat on in an attempt to protect the area from rock and other road debris hitting the area. The Rhino coat does nothing for rust in any manner.
Its taken some time, but I cant afford to spend that much on such an old car that is my DD. And like the poster above has said, kids are expensive and you realize and change your priorities. My car will never ever look "sweet" or "cool" again. But if I can keep huge rust scabies off of it, I will consider that enough of a victory over the next couple years. And to date I have less than 100 dollars invested. Hours of time, well thats a different story.
__________________
2001 Maxima SE VQ30DE-K (5 Spd)
1991 MR2 3S-GTE (Gen III, 5 Spd)
2007 Rav 4 2AZ-FE (Auto  )
|