Front Wheel Bearing replacement
06-21-2009, 05:22 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 39
Front Wheel Bearing replacement
I'm about to venture into the world of bearing replacement. I looked at motorvate's DIY, but had a couple questions. He used some home made tools to complete the job, which i'm not opposed to, but has anyone used something like one of these to replace the bearing? I'd rather just try to get everything in one package rather than head to home depot or something to get several peices to pull the bearing.
second, when searching, it seemed that a lot of people said to remove the hub, and then have a shop press a bearing on, but based on the motovate DIY, the bearing was pushed into the steering knuckle furst, are these just different ways of going about it? When the hub is pulled, does the bearing normally come out with it? Or does the hub always come out independent of the bearing? If the bearings are pressed onto the Hub how do you install the outter clip when putting the hub back into the steering knuckle?
second, when searching, it seemed that a lot of people said to remove the hub, and then have a shop press a bearing on, but based on the motovate DIY, the bearing was pushed into the steering knuckle furst, are these just different ways of going about it? When the hub is pulled, does the bearing normally come out with it? Or does the hub always come out independent of the bearing? If the bearings are pressed onto the Hub how do you install the outter clip when putting the hub back into the steering knuckle?
06-21-2009, 07:39 PM
#2
First, you need to pull the hub. Use a puller, or do as motorvate did, hammer it out with the socket/rod.
Second, you need a bearing splitter/puller, as shown on motorvate, to get the inner race off the hub.
Third, you need a shop press, or construct a puller like motorvate did, to press or pull the outer race out.
Fourth, you need a shop press, or as motorvate did, hammer the new bearing in using the old outer race.
Fifth, you need a shop press, or use the puller motorvate constructed, to pull the hub back in.
PM me with any questions. I have done these bearings many times.
Second, you need a bearing splitter/puller, as shown on motorvate, to get the inner race off the hub.
Third, you need a shop press, or construct a puller like motorvate did, to press or pull the outer race out.
Fourth, you need a shop press, or as motorvate did, hammer the new bearing in using the old outer race.
Fifth, you need a shop press, or use the puller motorvate constructed, to pull the hub back in.
PM me with any questions. I have done these bearings many times.
06-22-2009, 01:19 AM
#5
My advice, pay a shop the $150 they'll want to do it and be done with it. If you don't have a press, you'll have a very difficult time - at least I did. That kit you show in the pic (at Harbor Freight) alone is like $75 - you're 1/2 way to that $150 mark already. You will likely not ever use that kit for anything else .... just a thought to keep in mind.
Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
06-22-2009, 07:16 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pleasanton,CA
Posts: 1,136
I got TIMKEN (made in parternship with NTK, Japan) for $50/piece and paid the shop $45/side to push in the new bearings.
06-22-2009, 08:35 AM
#7
It pretty easy as a DIY. The inner and outers can be pulled of an on with a puller just slightly smaller than the hub. Doesn't take a lot of torque to get them off an on. I sure wouldn't pay $150 for something you can do with a $20 puller. I have done both of mine.
06-22-2009, 02:28 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
If you're using a press, don't you have to remove the knuckle from the car, which means you have to separate the tie rod and the control arm from the knuckle? So in addition to a press, don't you need a ball joint separator (maybe the same tool can be used for the tie rod and the ball joint, I don't know)? The attraction of the bearing kit posted by the OP is that you can supposedly replace a wheel bearing without removing the knuckle.
Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
06-22-2009, 02:56 PM
#10
If you're using a press, don't you have to remove the knuckle from the car, which means you have to separate the tie rod and the control arm from the knuckle? So in addition to a press, don't you need a ball joint separator (maybe the same tool can be used for the tie rod and the ball joint, I don't know)? The attraction of the bearing kit posted by the OP is that you can supposedly replace a wheel bearing without removing the knuckle.
Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
Maybe the experienced guys could comment on what tools they used to separate the knuckle from the car, and where they got them.
06-22-2009, 03:06 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 19
Don't forget to order bearing seals, those came seperate from the bearing i ordered.
also you need circlip pliers, there's circlips on both sides holding the bearing in before you start pressing out the old bearing from the knuckle.
also you need circlip pliers, there's circlips on both sides holding the bearing in before you start pressing out the old bearing from the knuckle.
06-22-2009, 03:40 PM
#12
When you have done that you will not suggest a 2 Ton press is essential.
06-22-2009, 10:01 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolton, CT
Posts: 199
I have done this operation many times on a couple of Japanese cars with the latest one being the Maxi.
Though I have always had the luxury of having a press available I believe that, with the proper adapters, there should be no reason that you couldn't pull a bearing into place. In fact what I have always lacked is a "bearing puller" (a clamshell-like device for wedging bearing IDs off of shafts) and have had to resort to die-grinding till the point where I could break the inner race off the hub.
A couple things I noticed that were a bit different (better) about the Maxi then the other bearings I've done were the fact that there were rings on both ends of the bearing so that it could be pushed or pulled in either direction (my other experiences were with counterbored holes w/one ring only). The other interesting fact is that the circlips did NOT require snap ring pliers, only a screwdriver (at least on my 97).
You've probably already read this but if you're new I'll repeat it anyway, when pushing/pulling the new bearing into the knuckle, push on the outer race only and when pushing/pulling the hub into the new bearing be sure to support the inner race only. I believe the hub is just short enough that it can be done without something hollow against the inner race.
Though I have always had the luxury of having a press available I believe that, with the proper adapters, there should be no reason that you couldn't pull a bearing into place. In fact what I have always lacked is a "bearing puller" (a clamshell-like device for wedging bearing IDs off of shafts) and have had to resort to die-grinding till the point where I could break the inner race off the hub.
A couple things I noticed that were a bit different (better) about the Maxi then the other bearings I've done were the fact that there were rings on both ends of the bearing so that it could be pushed or pulled in either direction (my other experiences were with counterbored holes w/one ring only). The other interesting fact is that the circlips did NOT require snap ring pliers, only a screwdriver (at least on my 97).
You've probably already read this but if you're new I'll repeat it anyway, when pushing/pulling the new bearing into the knuckle, push on the outer race only and when pushing/pulling the hub into the new bearing be sure to support the inner race only. I believe the hub is just short enough that it can be done without something hollow against the inner race.
06-22-2009, 11:05 PM
#14
06-25-2009, 01:16 PM
#16
Who yanked your chain? Yes it can be done on the car, at least with the steering knuckle attached. Of course the hub has to be removed from the axle.
I know you want to send everyone to a shop and spend $150. That is not what this forum is for. It's to give guys the info to do it themselves. This can be done by the average DIY'r if they have the motivation. If you don't want to spend $30-50 for the puller you can rent one for free.
Yes I am a better mechanic than you, mechanics fix cars vs sending it out for someone else to do.
Yippee for me, shame on you.
I know you want to send everyone to a shop and spend $150. That is not what this forum is for. It's to give guys the info to do it themselves. This can be done by the average DIY'r if they have the motivation. If you don't want to spend $30-50 for the puller you can rent one for free.
Yes I am a better mechanic than you, mechanics fix cars vs sending it out for someone else to do.
Yippee for me, shame on you.
My advice, pay a shop the $150 they'll want to do it and be done with it. If you don't have a press, you'll have a very difficult time - at least I did. That kit you show in the pic (at Harbor Freight) alone is like $75 - you're 1/2 way to that $150 mark already. You will likely not ever use that kit for anything else .... just a thought to keep in mind.
Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
Plus ... and people on here who know me, know I don't like sending anyone to a shop if they can do it them selfs ... a shop will ensure it's done right the first time and should warranty it if it's not. If you do it and it's not done right, you'll end up paying a shop to do it anyway.
I thought it was clear that I don't like to send people to a shop. However, unless you have the propper tools to get the job done right, how else is it to get done. You make this sound so simple, why not go do it for him? I am glad we agree though that the hub needs to come off. Not sure if there might have been some confussion about what needs to come off. Of course the hub needs to come off
06-25-2009, 02:11 PM
#17
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html
great tool...saves tons of time since you don't have to pull everything out...BUT
the tool is very expensive and if you're doing that many wheel bearings this is going to be over kill...unless there's a much cheaper alternative.
06-25-2009, 02:24 PM
#18
I thought it was clear that I don't like to send people to a shop. However, unless you have the propper tools to get the job done right, how else is it to get done. You make this sound so simple, why not go do it for him? I am glad we agree though that the hub needs to come off. Not sure if there might have been some confussion about what needs to come off. Of course the hub needs to come off
Actually I was going to suggest if he comes to MAXUS 09 we could do it at the track, I will bring my puller.
I'm not going to waste my time arguing with you when its clear that you don't want me to confuse you with facts when your mind is made up.
I found it simple and if you look on http://www.motorvate.ca you will find someone else that found it simple.
I won't respond further, I have better things to do with my time.
06-25-2009, 02:31 PM
#19
you're referring to the hubtamer (or a similar tool)
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html
great tool...saves tons of time since you don't have to pull everything out...BUT
the tool is very expensive and if you're doing that many wheel bearings this is going to be over kill...unless there's a much cheaper alternative.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html
great tool...saves tons of time since you don't have to pull everything out...BUT
the tool is very expensive and if you're doing that many wheel bearings this is going to be over kill...unless there's a much cheaper alternative.
06-26-2009, 10:52 AM
#20
got a pic?
the AZ by me got nothing...or nothing good.
06-26-2009, 10:02 PM
#21
06-27-2009, 05:08 AM
#22
If you check out the motovate site he has pics of it.
Presently I am at the Holiday Inn in MD, just going to leave for the track for MAXUS 09 so I can't post a pic.
06-29-2009, 07:18 PM
#23
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 118
Absolutely correct, I concur with JtzMax!! Take the hub off as a piece and take it to a machine shop who will remove the old one off and push in the new one. That is what I did becoz even though the pressing of new bearings looks DIY there is a high chance in destroying the new bearings if not pressed correctly with consistent & uniform force.
I got TIMKEN (made in parternship with NTK, Japan) for $50/piece and paid the shop $45/side to push in the new bearings.
I got TIMKEN (made in parternship with NTK, Japan) for $50/piece and paid the shop $45/side to push in the new bearings.
Love_00_Max,
How did you go about ordering the TIMKEN bearings? Got any part numbers?
Thanks!!
06-30-2009, 01:28 PM
#25
07-10-2009, 02:48 AM
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 118
07-10-2009, 07:14 AM
#28
07-10-2009, 10:30 AM
#29
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