idler pulley, belt tensioner assembly
10-27-2007, 03:34 AM
#1
idler pulley, belt tensioner assembly
My idler pulley blew up on me while I was driving. I was able to find on the ground a 14mm nut, round black plate, 1 washer, and 1 cylindrical piece about 1/4" long. Am I missing anything? What's the proper order of assembly? Which side of the pulley faces out?
Jae
Jae
10-27-2007, 03:27 PM
#4
Alright, great news... I was able to recover all the pieces. Tuesday I heard a metallic friction noise, so Wed I placed an order @ Kragens. Picked it up Fri night just before my 250mi road trip. Well, just past midnight, I pull off at my exit, downshift to 4th, and heard a clunk followed by massive metallic noise... I knew the pulley bearing was shot. Plus, Battery and brake lights came on, telling me alternator wasn't running.
Luckily I pull into a Bar/restaurant parkinglot and as I roll past Security, the rest of my pulley falls out. I casually park in the back, assess the damage, and notice I'm missing the nut. Luckily, security picked up my pulley, washer, and nut. This morn I head back and swap in the new pulley and belts and I'm golden. Woop!
209k miles... slowly, seems like everything will eventually fail.
Jae
Luckily I pull into a Bar/restaurant parkinglot and as I roll past Security, the rest of my pulley falls out. I casually park in the back, assess the damage, and notice I'm missing the nut. Luckily, security picked up my pulley, washer, and nut. This morn I head back and swap in the new pulley and belts and I'm golden. Woop!
209k miles... slowly, seems like everything will eventually fail.
Jae
11-21-2007, 12:20 PM
#6
It was easy to replace, I did it in a parkinglot with 1 philips screwdriver to remove the plastic wheel well cover, a 14mm (or 12?) wrench to loosen the pulley bolt, and a 14mm socket with extension to loosen the top adjuster.
The noise was a metallic scraping noise.
Dr J
The noise was a metallic scraping noise.
Dr J
11-21-2007, 12:51 PM
#7
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I have the exact order of the adjuster pulley in my notes at home. I think I even took pics. Just let me know if you still need it.
From memory, here's the order from back to front.
In the very back, you have the horizontal bolt facing away from the engine. In your case, this bolt should have remained captive. Next is the adjuster plate (the thing the aforementioned bolt slides up and down in) held on by three bolts. Again, this should have remained on your car. Next is a washer. After that is the actual adjuster rod. Next, I think there is another washer or a spacer. Then the idler pulley, text side out. Then that big black washer. Then a smaller washer I believe. And then the 14mm nut.
If your adjuster rod fell out, then make sure you still have the "wavey" washer for the top of it.
From memory, here's the order from back to front.
In the very back, you have the horizontal bolt facing away from the engine. In your case, this bolt should have remained captive. Next is the adjuster plate (the thing the aforementioned bolt slides up and down in) held on by three bolts. Again, this should have remained on your car. Next is a washer. After that is the actual adjuster rod. Next, I think there is another washer or a spacer. Then the idler pulley, text side out. Then that big black washer. Then a smaller washer I believe. And then the 14mm nut.
If your adjuster rod fell out, then make sure you still have the "wavey" washer for the top of it.
11-30-2008, 05:46 PM
#8
idler pulley assembly
I broke the adjustble tension bolt while replacing the belts on my 98 maxima today. I carelessy always give too much torque.
Is this the order how the pieces slide onto the idler pulley pivot bolt:
1. washer
2. adjustable rod
3. washer
4. 1/4" spacer
5. idler pulley
6. capnut
7. 14mm nut
Is this the order how the pieces slide onto the idler pulley pivot bolt:
1. washer
2. adjustable rod
3. washer
4. 1/4" spacer
5. idler pulley
6. capnut
7. 14mm nut
12-01-2008, 02:08 PM
#10
I have the exact order of the adjuster pulley in my notes at home. I think I even took pics. Just let me know if you still need it.
From memory, here's the order from back to front.
In the very back, you have the horizontal bolt facing away from the engine. In your case, this bolt should have remained captive. Next is the adjuster plate (the thing the aforementioned bolt slides up and down in) held on by three bolts. Again, this should have remained on your car. Next is a washer. After that is the actual adjuster rod. Next, I think there is another washer or a spacer. Then the idler pulley, text side out. Then that big black washer. Then a smaller washer I believe. And then the 14mm nut.
If your adjuster rod fell out, then make sure you still have the "wavey" washer for the top of it.
From memory, here's the order from back to front.
In the very back, you have the horizontal bolt facing away from the engine. In your case, this bolt should have remained captive. Next is the adjuster plate (the thing the aforementioned bolt slides up and down in) held on by three bolts. Again, this should have remained on your car. Next is a washer. After that is the actual adjuster rod. Next, I think there is another washer or a spacer. Then the idler pulley, text side out. Then that big black washer. Then a smaller washer I believe. And then the 14mm nut.
If your adjuster rod fell out, then make sure you still have the "wavey" washer for the top of it.
12-01-2008, 02:18 PM
#11
I have said picture Ptatohed mentioned as well, but at home.
12-01-2008, 02:26 PM
#12
12-01-2008, 02:39 PM
#13
12-01-2008, 05:39 PM
#14
After purchasing the adjustable bolt I assembled it using the courtesy nissan diagram and it worked fine.
Thanks man now I can finally put this thing together.
12-02-2008, 04:49 PM
#18
Also FWIW, I've never had any belt associated problems. Gonna have to try and find the second pic I was talking about earlier.
12-02-2008, 05:31 PM
#19
Hmmmmmm....My max was pretty much bone stock when I bought it, and the original belts were on it....so I doubt I'm missing it. However, it's very interesting that's there's an obvious discrepancy between my picture and the one you linked.
Also FWIW, I've never had any belt associated problems. Gonna have to try and find the second pic I was talking about earlier.
Also FWIW, I've never had any belt associated problems. Gonna have to try and find the second pic I was talking about earlier.
12-02-2008, 05:33 PM
#20
Could very well be. That's why I wanted to find the second pic showing the profile of everything....
12-02-2008, 05:40 PM
#21
You can look here as well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sounbwoy/2598979462/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sounbwoy/2598978792/
The Assembly was purchased from Courtesy.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sounbwoy/2598979462/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sounbwoy/2598978792/
The Assembly was purchased from Courtesy.
12-03-2008, 10:15 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Greensboro,NC
Posts: 198
02-08-2009, 09:09 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 142
I'm in the same situation as the others here...my idler pulley must have fallen off when the nut broke off or loosened off. Same warning lights, etc.
So now I'm working on putting in a replacement from Autozone, and I have all of the above parts EXCEPT the retaining NUT on the far left and the washer that sits between the shield and the pulley (3rd item from the left in the pic).
I went to Lowe's because folks here said "It's a 14mm nut"...well that can't be right. I took the 1/4 in spacer with me off the bolt as a "guide" and it's only 12mm. So I bought a 12mm nut and a 12mm washer. BOTH are too big because the threading is smaller than the area where the pulley and spacer sit.
So I said the heck with it and took off the whole assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking the slide bolt itself with me to find out what size the thread really is. Am I wrong in this? It's the factory bolt, I'm sure. Should I skip Lowe's and actually buy the nut and washer from the dealership? Seems like a waste for such a simple part.
Oh, and the Autozone pulley had a flat side and a beveled side...does the flat side go against the inside? Should the pulley basically line up perfectly with the other main pulley?
FINALLY, anyone able to explain what this part really does and how it works?
So now I'm working on putting in a replacement from Autozone, and I have all of the above parts EXCEPT the retaining NUT on the far left and the washer that sits between the shield and the pulley (3rd item from the left in the pic).
I went to Lowe's because folks here said "It's a 14mm nut"...well that can't be right. I took the 1/4 in spacer with me off the bolt as a "guide" and it's only 12mm. So I bought a 12mm nut and a 12mm washer. BOTH are too big because the threading is smaller than the area where the pulley and spacer sit.
So I said the heck with it and took off the whole assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking the slide bolt itself with me to find out what size the thread really is. Am I wrong in this? It's the factory bolt, I'm sure. Should I skip Lowe's and actually buy the nut and washer from the dealership? Seems like a waste for such a simple part.
Oh, and the Autozone pulley had a flat side and a beveled side...does the flat side go against the inside? Should the pulley basically line up perfectly with the other main pulley?
FINALLY, anyone able to explain what this part really does and how it works?
Last edited by cditto; 02-08-2009 at 09:32 PM.
02-08-2009, 10:02 PM
#26
Yeah, my kragen came just like yours, and I was lucky that I was pulling into a driveway as everything turned to hell and exploded... people in the parkinglot picked up all the loose parts for me.
You're better off returning the part and calling Dave or a local nissan dealership and getting everything in the picture. Even courtesynissanparts.com has it for a reasonable price.
The smooth side faced the center of the engine.
Dr J
You're better off returning the part and calling Dave or a local nissan dealership and getting everything in the picture. Even courtesynissanparts.com has it for a reasonable price.
The smooth side faced the center of the engine.
Dr J
02-09-2009, 04:07 AM
#27
I'm in the same situation as the others here...my idler pulley must have fallen off when the nut broke off or loosened off. Same warning lights, etc.
So now I'm working on putting in a replacement from Autozone, and I have all of the above parts EXCEPT the retaining NUT on the far left and the washer that sits between the shield and the pulley (3rd item from the left in the pic).
I went to Lowe's because folks here said "It's a 14mm nut"...well that can't be right. I took the 1/4 in spacer with me off the bolt as a "guide" and it's only 12mm. So I bought a 12mm nut and a 12mm washer. BOTH are too big because the threading is smaller than the area where the pulley and spacer sit.
So I said the heck with it and took off the whole assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking the slide bolt itself with me to find out what size the thread really is. Am I wrong in this? It's the factory bolt, I'm sure. Should I skip Lowe's and actually buy the nut and washer from the dealership? Seems like a waste for such a simple part.
Oh, and the Autozone pulley had a flat side and a beveled side...does the flat side go against the inside? Should the pulley basically line up perfectly with the other main pulley?
FINALLY, anyone able to explain what this part really does and how it works?
So now I'm working on putting in a replacement from Autozone, and I have all of the above parts EXCEPT the retaining NUT on the far left and the washer that sits between the shield and the pulley (3rd item from the left in the pic).
I went to Lowe's because folks here said "It's a 14mm nut"...well that can't be right. I took the 1/4 in spacer with me off the bolt as a "guide" and it's only 12mm. So I bought a 12mm nut and a 12mm washer. BOTH are too big because the threading is smaller than the area where the pulley and spacer sit.
So I said the heck with it and took off the whole assembly. Tomorrow I'm taking the slide bolt itself with me to find out what size the thread really is. Am I wrong in this? It's the factory bolt, I'm sure. Should I skip Lowe's and actually buy the nut and washer from the dealership? Seems like a waste for such a simple part.
Oh, and the Autozone pulley had a flat side and a beveled side...does the flat side go against the inside? Should the pulley basically line up perfectly with the other main pulley?
FINALLY, anyone able to explain what this part really does and how it works?
Are you in a hurry to fix it, or do you have time?
The total for the nut and the washer are ~$5 before shipping at Courtesy.
What do you mean what it does? It's a belt tensioner.
How it works? You adjust the top bolt, it raises or lowers the pulley to tension the belt. It's a lot more straightforward than, say, the PS belt.
Washer: 11931-42L00
Nut: 08911-3401A
02-09-2009, 07:34 AM
#28
Dr J
02-09-2009, 07:55 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 142
If it's a 14mm head, it's most likely a 10x1.25 stud. I know what you mean, few people on here know the difference between thread and head size, it's somewhat sad. 'What size are the wheel studs?' '21mm!'. ...no.
Are you in a hurry to fix it, or do you have time?
The total for the nut and the washer are ~$5 before shipping at Courtesy.
What do you mean what it does? It's a belt tensioner.
How it works? You adjust the top bolt, it raises or lowers the pulley to tension the belt. It's a lot more straightforward than, say, the PS belt.
Washer: 11931-42L00
Nut: 08911-3401A
Are you in a hurry to fix it, or do you have time?
The total for the nut and the washer are ~$5 before shipping at Courtesy.
What do you mean what it does? It's a belt tensioner.
How it works? You adjust the top bolt, it raises or lowers the pulley to tension the belt. It's a lot more straightforward than, say, the PS belt.
Washer: 11931-42L00
Nut: 08911-3401A
For the "what does it mean" I figured it was a belt tensioner after seeing this thread, but I'm wondering why they use the term "idler pulley"...makes it sound like it idles the belt or something.
Thanks guys...I'll post back what I find in case others get stuck like me.
UPDATE:
Went to Ace Hardware. The washer and nut that sit at the end of the bolt (far left in the above pics people posted) are M10x1.25 like pmohr said. I bought 2 nuts and 2 washers...total was $1.50.
So now I should be all set...thanks again.
Last edited by cditto; 02-09-2009 at 10:56 AM.
05-13-2009, 10:29 AM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I wanted to add some things in case anyone else has this problem.
BTW, thanks everyone for this thread, it helped me with my problem.
Firstly, I have a 2000 Maxima, but the idler pulley assembly appears to be identical. I recently replaced the drivebelt, and all of a sudden while driving the battery light came on and the lights got a little dimmer. Turns out the idler pulley was missing and so was the belt! I ended up picking up the whole idler pulley assembly at a local Nissan dealer for $73. Not too bad, considering that courtesy wants $53 before shipping. I also had to buy another new belt...
Anyways, the new pulley from Nissan is metal, not a cheap plastic one. The "assembly" kit includes everything except the metal bracket that bolts onto the engine. So it had the adjuster arm and nut, the bolt that holds the pulley, and here are the parts in the order they are put on the bolt after the bracket: washer, adjuster arm, spacer, plate, pulley, flatter plate, nut. I wish I took pictures, but I didn't...
Now here's the important part: I have a theory as to why this happens. See, I had some belt squeel before I replaced the belt. After I replaced the belt, it still happened, although not as bad. I thought it was probably the other belt (power steering). Basically, though, now I figure the bearings were going out on the idler pulley, considering that it's probably never been replaced since the car was built. (I got the car when it had 85k miles, it now has 162k and I know I never replaced it until now...) When bearings go bad, there is more friction, which means that there is more torque on the inner part of the pulley, which is supposed to be stationary. Now normally this wouldn't necessarily be a problem, but if you notice the pulley turns in a counter-clockwise direction, so that translates to counter-clockwise torque on that nut that holds the pulley in place. Now before I changed the belt, the nut was tight enough that the belt slipped before there was enough torque to break it loose. However, when I retightened it, for some reason I didn't think it was critical to tighten it really tight, thinking it was just to keep it from losing adjustment. However, I was apparently wrong. Moral of the story:
Whenever you adjust the pulley, tighten the center nut extremely tight. The factory service manual says 19-24 foot-pounds of torque (for 2000 model year) to tighten that nut. There's no way my torque wrench would fit in that space, so I just tightened it almost as tight as I could with a 14mm box-end wrench. Also, it might be worth it to replace the idler pulley when you replace your drivebelt if you don't know when it's been changed (or if you have belt squeel). You can get a pulley by itself for much cheaper (or replace the bearings for even less) than the whole assembly plus an extra belt like what happened to me.
BTW, thanks everyone for this thread, it helped me with my problem.
Firstly, I have a 2000 Maxima, but the idler pulley assembly appears to be identical. I recently replaced the drivebelt, and all of a sudden while driving the battery light came on and the lights got a little dimmer. Turns out the idler pulley was missing and so was the belt! I ended up picking up the whole idler pulley assembly at a local Nissan dealer for $73. Not too bad, considering that courtesy wants $53 before shipping. I also had to buy another new belt...
Anyways, the new pulley from Nissan is metal, not a cheap plastic one. The "assembly" kit includes everything except the metal bracket that bolts onto the engine. So it had the adjuster arm and nut, the bolt that holds the pulley, and here are the parts in the order they are put on the bolt after the bracket: washer, adjuster arm, spacer, plate, pulley, flatter plate, nut. I wish I took pictures, but I didn't...
Now here's the important part: I have a theory as to why this happens. See, I had some belt squeel before I replaced the belt. After I replaced the belt, it still happened, although not as bad. I thought it was probably the other belt (power steering). Basically, though, now I figure the bearings were going out on the idler pulley, considering that it's probably never been replaced since the car was built. (I got the car when it had 85k miles, it now has 162k and I know I never replaced it until now...) When bearings go bad, there is more friction, which means that there is more torque on the inner part of the pulley, which is supposed to be stationary. Now normally this wouldn't necessarily be a problem, but if you notice the pulley turns in a counter-clockwise direction, so that translates to counter-clockwise torque on that nut that holds the pulley in place. Now before I changed the belt, the nut was tight enough that the belt slipped before there was enough torque to break it loose. However, when I retightened it, for some reason I didn't think it was critical to tighten it really tight, thinking it was just to keep it from losing adjustment. However, I was apparently wrong. Moral of the story:
Whenever you adjust the pulley, tighten the center nut extremely tight. The factory service manual says 19-24 foot-pounds of torque (for 2000 model year) to tighten that nut. There's no way my torque wrench would fit in that space, so I just tightened it almost as tight as I could with a 14mm box-end wrench. Also, it might be worth it to replace the idler pulley when you replace your drivebelt if you don't know when it's been changed (or if you have belt squeel). You can get a pulley by itself for much cheaper (or replace the bearings for even less) than the whole assembly plus an extra belt like what happened to me.
05-13-2009, 11:30 AM
#32
Be careful not to round the bolt with too much torque. I would try loctite or even double nuts for an insurance.
09-01-2009, 05:15 PM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1
part number for idler pulley wheel 4th generation
Hi,im trying to locate an idler pulley wheel for my 1998 maxima qx v6 (2.0 petrol manual) I cannot locate the part number? where could I order it from ? im located in ireland..
09-01-2009, 05:47 PM
#34
01-07-2010, 03:07 PM
#37
Bump again...
Changed my alt and i'm putting everything together. Everything is done but the belt. my AC compressor can't be placed back in the same position because of an issue with a bolt so I'm bypassing it. I left the belt off overnight now my tensioner won't move up and down. completely stuck in the down position. I tried tapping a hammer on a prybar on the tip of the bolt to free it up but no luck. Took the bolt of the pulley to remove the whole assembly but the pulley still won't come off. Don't have a shop light so i'll do some more in the morning. Any suggestions on what I should do tomorrow? Put the nut back on and try to tap it free from the bottom? or to remove the whole assembly ?
hopefully Nissan has one in stock if I have to replace it
Changed my alt and i'm putting everything together. Everything is done but the belt. my AC compressor can't be placed back in the same position because of an issue with a bolt so I'm bypassing it. I left the belt off overnight now my tensioner won't move up and down. completely stuck in the down position. I tried tapping a hammer on a prybar on the tip of the bolt to free it up but no luck. Took the bolt of the pulley to remove the whole assembly but the pulley still won't come off. Don't have a shop light so i'll do some more in the morning. Any suggestions on what I should do tomorrow? Put the nut back on and try to tap it free from the bottom? or to remove the whole assembly ?
hopefully Nissan has one in stock if I have to replace it
