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It's for my wife, but my name is on it. It's at 128k and came with:
-a minor valve cover leak (I can fix easily)
-possibly more than minor CV axle leak (hopefully not trans leak)
-warped rotors (thought I could fix, but....
-undercarriage swimming in rust and rotor bolts welded by rust
-caliper pins also nearly welded in by rust, but pads had some meat
-also the front shocks seem to be long dead because I can feel every bump on the road
-and the tires are very slightly separated
I've never had a Nissan and just learned what a CVT is. I think it's really neat, but I'm not sure if my driving habits are going to sustain it. That's my first question to this forum: How should I be driving to treat this CVT the best? Not going to be driving for performance, just want this thing to last to 200k and beyond.
Another question on that is that I checked the fluid and read beforehand it should only be in the crosshatch on the dipstick. The fluid level was about 30% above (if the entire crosshatch represents 100%), so it seems like it's just under a half quart overfull. How dangerous is that? Also, should this fluid smell more like gear lube than typical ATF like Dexron? It seems to smell like a lighter gear lube, not as strong as stuff like 75w90, but same consistency and color as those. Is that how this fluid should look?
Now, assuming the worst since there's several bad parts on it right now and the undercarriage is extremely rusted, how much life can I expect out of this CVT if, let's say the most recent dealer was the first to service it probably around 127k? I'm not noticing any issues, it's smooth as butter, except at low speeds...If I shift into reverse on any incline it will slam or clunk into motion and it tends to have a hesitation on flat road from being stopped. I figured that's just the nature of these CVTs, but correct me if that's an alarm.
If were looking at best case and this thing has been serviced regularly, but the previous owner just fell on hard times when the suspension parts were wearing down, can this thing last indefinitely as long as I continue to love it? So far, I'm enjoying the CVT and think it's an awesome idea for market standard, but of course people are never ready for such radical changes and that's surely why CVTs have such a bad name.
EDIT:
Shortly after posting this, I took the vehicle to a Pep Boys for a suspension inspection. I advised the writer I knew of many issues already and could fix them on my own, but that I struggled to get the rotor bolts out, hate doing shocks/struts, and was ill-equipped to replace the CV axle, so more than likely if their pricing was competitive, they'd do the work. I was called over to the lifted vehicle and advised that they would not be performing ANY work due to the excessive rust. I will upload some pics I took at the time and should note that some parts of the chassis have been replaced already with junkyard grabs. This gave me a strong suspicion that the dealer only replaced the few parts in an otherwise entirely rusted chassis just so it would feel more stable during test drives.
After contacting the dealer and voicing my dissatisfaction, he wouldn't relent to granting a refund or return of the vehicle and to the best of my knowledge such refusal is legal for him in Georgia, because the car is so old at this point. However, I agreed to keep the car as long as he would find a fabricator or exhaust shop that could make the vehicle mechanically fit and so far he is agreeable to that compromise. I must imagine replacing the subframe and a large percentage of the exhaust system is what we'd call a "big" job", but if anyone here knows of some tips to make it easier, cheaper, or quicker, please share. I finding tons of old/wrecked maximas to use as parts cars, but will I be better off just finding an OEM subframe (front & rear) and having that installed?
Do these subframes drop straight down or will everything have to be detached and engine hoisted/set on blocks so it's free of the mounts?
Or...should I demand a refund and threaten legal action? Knowing how the courts work here, going that route would mean the vehicle cost and other associated costs may not be recouped for years, so I don't think I want to go that route, but please share any legal advice if you have some about this.
Thanks for the reply. I did not have a chance to look under the vehicle before purchase and the dealer stated the only issues he was aware of were the brakes. I have contacted him about this and he definitely seems reluctant to offer a return. I'd like to avoid a legal battle and have gotten a soft commitment from the dealer to find a shop that would fix this for me and from speaking to shops about it, getting a sub frame and the odd exhaust pipe replaced for under $1000 would be a good deal and that is what the dealer feels confident he can find.
I'm not an idiot, I see that there are some frame parts not rusted (not really new, but look it compared to the rusty parts) with junkyard designations, so I'm pretty sure this dealer replaced some key parts so it would feel stable during a test drive and I do not mind keeping the vehicle knowing that, even if it means paying a bit more to get it in better shape. Based on these images and assuming it will hold up for the next 6 months, is there anything I can do to protect or ensure non-rusted parts stay solid? Maybe some sort of protectant spray or things to avoid, like driving in rain and obviously undue stress like potholes...?
I am not sure what part of US are you in, but my 97 Maxima SE that I bought in Chicago had little to no rust when compared to this one. There are large sections of floor missing.
The structural integrity of the vehicle is in question, I don't think that this will be a cheap repair. Is the dealer paying for it?
I would go to hell and back just to get my money back. That is some shady dealer right there telling you that all it needs are the brakes.
That is some shady dealer right there telling you that all it needs are the brakes.
For sure, I completely agree but since he has already proven how shady he is, if I go demanding my money back he will just respond with "see you in court" and even though I think I would have a case, IANAL, and court rooms rarely focus on justice. So, I will instead play this as a friend and act grateful to him for the deal but also voice displeasure with these issues and if I can stay in contact with him throughout the repairs and THEN sue him I can use that against him because he won't be able to use the defense of "this guy is nuts, found a little bit of rust and got taken by mechanics charging too much. If he would have came to me for help I could have given him a refund or referred a honest mechanic, but he just demanded his money back after he signed the contract buying the car as is. So, your honor, I shouldn't be held liable for his hasty actions."
That's what they will always do, make the repairs we'd sue for seem extraneous and that they were willing to help. Well as long as I don't go down that road and he stays in contact with me and i give him those opportunities to pay for the repairs he won't have that defense and won't be able to claim ignorance of the issues either. This is how you checkmate shady dealers not by calling them out.
Like if you know someone's a liar, what could you ever hope to gain by asking them if they're lying? It's the same concept here. Honey catches more
flies than vinegar.
I have an 07 Maxima in New York.... You just purchased a 16 year old car and it looks like from a rust belt state. Both your driver and passenger floor pans are gone the only thing stopping your feet from touching the road below you is carpet and padding . I replaced the passenger side floor pan, it was fairly easy and you need to do it right away. The other rust is surface rust under the car on the frame. The exhaust rust... is what it is ....and you replace parts as they fail. It needs some love. You do not have Rotor Bolts ...Your rotors will come off when you remove the wheel and calipers as that is the only 2 things holding the rotors to the hub . The bolts you are referring to as Rotor bolts are your 5 wheel studs that are on the wheel hub, that is pressed into the bearing on the knuckle. you replace the bearing and hub when needed . You can PM me if you have any other questions or need how to info .
Thanks for the reply. Hit it right on the head saying it needs some love. Good thing is I'm really enjoying the CVT and the engine response. I feel like it should be better on gas, but with me as a first time user getting used to it and the suspension parts not being ideal, Im giving the 15.5 mpg a pass, but my 99 marquis was averaging 16.4 and it's a 4.6 (down due to leaking intake currently) so I'm pretty positive once the chassis is in better shape this engine will see better gas mileage.
Everything else about the car is lovely, I'm a big stickler for driver seat position, mustangs for example have found the best spot in terms of balancing the feel of power and control along with ability to be aware of the road and the maxima does just as good a job but falls just slightly behind in terms of control. She has trouble with hills, not to say she stalls or anything, just loses progressive torque unless I zero the pedal and surge her up the hill. All these "issues" are just nit picks, I'm really enjoying it.
As to what was said about rotor
bolts...are you referring to the rear discs? The fronts most definitely have rotor bolts in the same place as almost every other rotor bolt I've ever come
across. I know because I fought them with a can of blaster and a ridiculously long torque wrench
You need to call NHTSA asap about this matter. You do realize that is the underside of the carpet Right. The floors are rusted out and gone. This car is not safe. Structurally it is not sound and should not be on the road. The rust on the subfame is not the issue, the Lug bolt attached inside the body appears to be pulled through. Take my advice, park it until you can return it. Call a lawyer and move asap on this matter. DO NOT fix anything on it. Return this car. pm me if you need to.
from the look of the photos look like it was flooded car sat in standing water that a lot of rust to see and definitely not sellable car or safety either. Return the car, they belong to the scrap yard! I hope you did your homework and what they hell are they thinking of selling the car, that dealer need to be revoked to be a selling dealer.
As to what was said about rotor
bolts...are you referring to the rear discs? The fronts most definitely have rotor bolts in the same place as almost every other rotor bolt I've ever come
across. I know because I fought them with a can of blaster and a ridiculously long torque wrench
I have no clue what you are referring to when you say.... Rotor Bolts. The Rotors front and rear have no bolts that hold them to the hub. The rotors are installed by passing the 5 wheels studs through the 5 rotor holes and put flush to the hub & on to the hub ring . No bolts. The rotors are held to the hub when the wheel is installed and the lug Nuts are torqued.
It's for my wife, but my name is on it. It's at 128k and came with:
-a minor valve cover leak (I can fix easily)
-possibly more than minor CV axle leak (hopefully not trans leak)
-warped rotors (thought I could fix, but....
-undercarriage swimming in rust and rotor bolts welded by rust
-caliper pins also nearly welded in by rust, but pads had some meat
-also the front shocks seem to be long dead because I can feel every bump on the road
-and the tires are very slightly separated
I've never had a Nissan and just learned what a CVT is. I think it's really neat, but I'm not sure if my driving habits are going to sustain it. That's my first question to this forum: How should I be driving to treat this CVT the best? Not going to be driving for performance, just want this thing to last to 200k and beyond.
Another question on that is that I checked the fluid and read beforehand it should only be in the crosshatch on the dipstick. The fluid level was about 30% above (if the entire crosshatch represents 100%), so it seems like it's just under a half quart overfull. How dangerous is that? Also, should this fluid smell more like gear lube than typical ATF like Dexron? It seems to smell like a lighter gear lube, not as strong as stuff like 75w90, but same consistency and color as those. Is that how this fluid should look?
Now, assuming the worst since there's several bad parts on it right now and the undercarriage is extremely rusted, how much life can I expect out of this CVT if, let's say the most recent dealer was the first to service it probably around 127k? I'm not noticing any issues, it's smooth as butter, except at low speeds...If I shift into reverse on any incline it will slam or clunk into motion and it tends to have a hesitation on flat road from being stopped. I figured that's just the nature of these CVTs, but correct me if that's an alarm.
If were looking at best case and this thing has been serviced regularly, but the previous owner just fell on hard times when the suspension parts were wearing down, can this thing last indefinitely as long as I continue to love it? So far, I'm enjoying the CVT and think it's an awesome idea for market standard, but of course people are never ready for such radical changes and that's surely why CVTs have such a bad name.
EDIT:
Shortly after posting this, I took the vehicle to a Pep Boys for a suspension inspection. I advised the writer I knew of many issues already and could fix them on my own, but that I struggled to get the rotor bolts out, hate doing shocks/struts, and was ill-equipped to replace the CV axle, so more than likely if their pricing was competitive, they'd do the work. I was called over to the lifted vehicle and advised that they would not be performing ANY work due to the excessive rust. I will upload some pics I took at the time and should note that some parts of the chassis have been replaced already with junkyard grabs. This gave me a strong suspicion that the dealer only replaced the few parts in an otherwise entirely rusted chassis just so it would feel more stable during test drives.
After contacting the dealer and voicing my dissatisfaction, he wouldn't relent to granting a refund or return of the vehicle and to the best of my knowledge such refusal is legal for him in Georgia, because the car is so old at this point. However, I agreed to keep the car as long as he would find a fabricator or exhaust shop that could make the vehicle mechanically fit and so far he is agreeable to that compromise. I must imagine replacing the subframe and a large percentage of the exhaust system is what we'd call a "big" job", but if anyone here knows of some tips to make it easier, cheaper, or quicker, please share. I finding tons of old/wrecked maximas to use as parts cars, but will I be better off just finding an OEM subframe (front & rear) and having that installed?
Do these subframes drop straight down or will everything have to be detached and engine hoisted/set on blocks so it's free of the mounts?
Or...should I demand a refund and threaten legal action? Knowing how the courts work here, going that route would mean the vehicle cost and other associated costs may not be recouped for years, so I don't think I want to go that route, but please share any legal advice if you have some about this.
just recently replaced front and back sub frame on my 08 maxima with 150,000 miles along with like everything else.our stories basically the same bought from a shady dealer when I was 22 and didn’t know much about cars. I’ve put more money into this car then I bought it for and will never buy another Nissan again after this thing dies. I’ll drive it for a week and a new issue pops up. It’s never ending.
05-30-2023, 03:35 AM
