6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.
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After spending the last three days scouring over these boards and posts, I will admit to being quite confused and overwhelmed!!! A little background information: I purchased a 2004 Maxima 6-speed MT and I adored that car! Due to some physical health issues, I had to get away from the manual transmission and I ended up selling it and temporarily driving an SUV. I finally found another Maxima I liked and this weekend became the proud owner of a 2006 Maxima SE 5AT - which I have learned has the transmission of DOOM. The dealer swore he thought it had a "minor" issue and that it probably just needed a good service and (like and idiot - because he was a friend I bought my last 3 vehicles from) I trusted him and bought it anyway with an extended warranty.
Here is where I am now:
I have the "secondary timing chain tensioner whine" so I'm going to need to get that replaced.
I have the SLAM shift while coasting to stops between 3-2/2-1 occasionally. MOSTLY this happens after I've been driving 30+ minutes.
I have had a few instances of slipping upon acceleration from a stop (the car goes to 4000rpm without any "pull" and then hard shifts into gear and goes again).
I do NOT (yet) have the hard shift when shifting from P-R, R-D or any other combinations of shifting. They all happen very smoothly, so I'm PRAYING that this means things haven't gotten TOO out of control yet.
I have found the Transgo shift kit (semi-)locally for $79.97+tax. HOWEVER, every shop I have called locally says "Well, I'd be willing to look at putting it in, but I've never put one in a Maxima, mostly we just get a new valve body from Nissan for $1100." One shop went so far as to say he needed to call Transtar (where I called for the kit) and see what it entailed to give me a price, when he called back with a price of $350 to install (plus fluid) he told me that the Transtar rep advised him that he would say the MAJORITY of people who buy it say it doesn't fix the issues it states on the box.
WOW that was long. Sorry. On to my question (finally.)
I am discouraged, disappointed and afraid I'll never stop having problems - but at this point I can't do anything about it but try and find the most economical steps to take.
My thinking is this:
1. Try a drain/fill (3 times like I've read here, with 15 minutes of driving between each one making sure to cycle through all gears)... if that doesn't help:
2. Have the Transgo Shift Kit installed ($80 for the part, $350 for the install)
3. Replace the Valve Body and/or whatever else it might be if the first two don't work.
Is this a logical order to do things or should I do something differently? Also - Is the AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid >/= the Nissan ATF that is recommended by the dealer? If I'm going to do drain/fill procedure I'd certainly like to use a less expensive ATF for the first couple of rounds and use the best on the final fill - but I don't want to do anything that will give me less than the best result.
I apologize if none of this makes any sense - like I said this is my first attempt at a post here, and I'm not very car-savvy but I'm willing and eager to learn and absorb any information that you all can give me.
Hello everyone, I have a the 04 maxima SL. I love this car but the other day i was driving to a friends house and all of a sudden as soon as i hit 40mph i seem to be losing power and rps are just reving higher and higher. Now im not a car expert but im guessing it goes in first and second gear but not shifting into 3rd or above. Im a student so im broke and need to fix this car because its my only way of getting around i live in MN and it is freezing here with horrible transportation. I hope i can get advise and find out if the whole tranny needs to be replaced or if i have other CHEAPER options.
Here's an update to the power seat, lock and window problem I posted earlier. Shortly after posting here (Jan 13), my wife asked to use the car. Since she is much smaller than me and needed to adjust the seat (which wasn't working), I thought about disconnecting the battery momentarily to see if it would reset and perhaps work long enough to move the seat. Granted the dealer had disconnected the battery several times in their diagnosis and repair procedures but it never "stuck" in terms of fixing the issue.
Anyway - it worked. I was able to move the seat after reconnecting the battery. Locks and windows also worked. However, the moment I sat in the driver seat and started the car - everything was broken again! This is similar to what I saw at the dealership - they would "fix" it - it was working when I picked it up - but later after I started it and drove off - everything was not working again.
So I repeated the battery disconnect/reconnect - this time I adjusted the seat fully up and forward to where it fit my wife. She got in it and made some minor adjustments to the seat and then took off shopping. Funny thing - the locks/windows/seat worked all day for her. Then the next day and the next day, etc. It's still working more than a week later.
Based on this - the only thing I can think of is that there may be a short in the wiring or harness under the driver seat and moving it so far up and forward somehow got the wires positioned so the short went away. Or an alternate but similar theory - I am much heavier than her and therefore would push down the seat cushion more. Perhaps due to the seat cushion compressing under weight, a short is occuring? And since the seat, locks and windows are on the same circuit - the seat shorting out could cause the other items to malfunction as well? Thoughts?
Hello everyone, I have a the 04 maxima SL. I love this car but the other day i was driving to a friends house and all of a sudden as soon as i hit 40mph i seem to be losing power and rps are just reving higher and higher. Now im not a car expert but im guessing it goes in first and second gear but not shifting into 3rd or above. Im a student so im broke and need to fix this car because its my only way of getting around i live in MN and it is freezing here with horrible transportation. I hope i can get advise and find out if the whole tranny needs to be replaced or if i have other CHEAPER options.
Might be your camshaft position sensor. Have both sensors looked at.
WOW that was long. Sorry. On to my question (finally.)
I am discouraged, disappointed and afraid I'll never stop having problems - but at this point I can't do anything about it but try and find the most economical steps to take.
My thinking is this:
1. Try a drain/fill (3 times like I've read here, with 15 minutes of driving between each one making sure to cycle through all gears)... if that doesn't help:
2. Have the Transgo Shift Kit installed ($80 for the part, $350 for the install)
3. Replace the Valve Body and/or whatever else it might be if the first two don't work.
~Beth
I think you have the right approach, however if it was me and owning a 5speed, and knowing what I know now, I would go straight to step 2. If you choose to do that, I recommend you go on a test drive with the person doing the work, so they can write down how the trans acts prior to the repair. Then make sure they do it right and everything is shifting proper afterward. Also make sure you let them know that some people have noticed springs in the valve body being stuck, and to check them while they are in there. If you look at my thread: RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX , you will see the items listed on what is needed to be purchased prior to. $350 for install is just a quote on the work, not on the materials used. There will be extra charges. If you bring your own fluid, you could save a significant amount of money. Good luck and post your experience and results in the thread I provided.
Needs reset read manual, believe close it and push and hold down switch for two seconds to reset
Quote:
Originally Posted by L36
Thanks for making this sticky. I felt like i was spamming up the whole forum with my questions.
Well, i was technically...
Anyway, im having a problem with the sunroof in my 04, when i press the button to open it it runs for a second then stops. To open it all the way, i gotta keep pressing the button...
My wifes 04 maxima has had a rear wheel growl for a few months. Today I tried to take it apart to see if I could get to the wheel bearings. No luck. Caliper and caliper holder removed. I do not see how the rotor comes off. Anyone care to chime in on how this comes apart?
Problem #1
I have a 2005 maxima SE and my *Auto* air button is STUCK almost hard as a rock.... It definitely did NOT get sticky from pop or anything like that either, someone pressed the button and it go stuck... Does anyboy know of a quick fix? or if i will have to replace it?
Problem #2
My battery is weak and i have a system in my car with a kinetic battery. I went to get my car from the body shop and the gas gauge went over a full tank and dropped on the other side of the needle stopper somehow? I know about the quick fix with the magnets to bring the needle back to where it belong but i want to know if its going to continue to happen? or if there is actually something i have to replace to fix it?
Hello guys, recently bought a 05 maxima and want to put in a new radio but cannot find any pics of videos with after market HU or double din. Owned nothing but chevys up to this week so have no clue. I keep finding videos of how to remove the hole thing but thats it. Any help would be appreciated.
There was a recall on this, they had replaced the wire harness b/c of it getting pinched. Maybe the previous owner never had it done. I did and I've never had a problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdigeorgio
Here's an update to the power seat, lock and window problem I posted earlier. Shortly after posting here (Jan 13), my wife asked to use the car. Since she is much smaller than me and needed to adjust the seat (which wasn't working), I thought about disconnecting the battery momentarily to see if it would reset and perhaps work long enough to move the seat. Granted the dealer had disconnected the battery several times in their diagnosis and repair procedures but it never "stuck" in terms of fixing the issue.
Anyway - it worked. I was able to move the seat after reconnecting the battery. Locks and windows also worked. However, the moment I sat in the driver seat and started the car - everything was broken again! This is similar to what I saw at the dealership - they would "fix" it - it was working when I picked it up - but later after I started it and drove off - everything was not working again.
So I repeated the battery disconnect/reconnect - this time I adjusted the seat fully up and forward to where it fit my wife. She got in it and made some minor adjustments to the seat and then took off shopping. Funny thing - the locks/windows/seat worked all day for her. Then the next day and the next day, etc. It's still working more than a week later.
Based on this - the only thing I can think of is that there may be a short in the wiring or harness under the driver seat and moving it so far up and forward somehow got the wires positioned so the short went away. Or an alternate but similar theory - I am much heavier than her and therefore would push down the seat cushion more. Perhaps due to the seat cushion compressing under weight, a short is occuring? And since the seat, locks and windows are on the same circuit - the seat shorting out could cause the other items to malfunction as well? Thoughts?
Hello guys, recently bought a 05 maxima and want to put in a new radio but cannot find any pics of videos with after market HU or double din. Owned nothing but chevys up to this week so have no clue. I keep finding videos of how to remove the hole thing but thats it. Any help would be appreciated.
They have double din dash kits on eBay. The color is not perfectly matched with oem SE dash kit so the after market kit will be darker silver/grey color.. U can paint or leave it I left it n it looks fine!
There was a recall on this, they had replaced the wire harness b/c of it getting pinched. Maybe the previous owner never had it done. I did and I've never had a problem.
Well - thanks for the info. I have an 07 model year however. Looks like you have an 06 model perhaps? Anyway, the recall seems to only go up to 2006 and has something to do with the power lumbar control on the power seat. My car only has a manual lumbar control. I guess it's worth a shot exploring it with the dealer ... but I know they are going to counter that the problem didn't exist in 07 models and later ...
Hey guys, I have an 05 SE and started to notice that sometimes when I accelerate I hear a whisting type of noise. Almost like a supercharger but not really :P. Does anyone know what it could be? It just happened recently and also when I downshift I sometimes hear the noise.. I have 171,000KM on it currently.
Hey guys, I have an 05 SE and started to notice that sometimes when I accelerate I hear a whisting type of noise. Almost like a supercharger but not really :P. Does anyone know what it could be? It just happened recently and also when I downshift I sometimes hear the noise.. I have 171,000KM on it currently.
I'm not sure if its the same but on my 04 SL Elite, when the car is cruising around 1500 to 2k RPM my car has a whistling noise too. I bought the car used back in 2010 from a Nissan dealer and took it back to the dealer multiple times and they were never able to tell me what's causing that. I also took it to 2 other mechanics, one of which is a family friend, and they also could not figure out what it is. It's very annoying.
This may be a stupid question but, it is possible to replace the filter box with an aftermarket cone filter connected to the OEM intake part? Is there any down falls to doing this? Does it make any difference in performance wise?
you can buy some cheap intake pipes at most auto part stores and piece a kit together pretty cheap
Yup, I was trying to see if it is feasible to use the original intake parts with an aftermarket cone filter. DO you know if this will cause a decrease in power or mess up the MAF sensor? Thanx
i dont think ive seen it done before, not saying that it hasnt been....just that i havent seen it.
I dont see why it would hurt anything
Sorry for the dirty engine bay. (I need to figure out how to clean it without messing up stuff)
I bought a 3" adapter for the MAF, an elbow (forgot how many degrees) and a Spectre filter. Hooked it up to the OEM intake pipe. I seem to like it. It's not as loud as the Fujita or Injen, but it's what I wanted since I have a 3 yr old who takes naps in the car when we go somewhere. Now, does it improve performance, I'm not sure. Feels like it picks up a little faster, but it could just be me. In the end, I enjoy it.
On the other hand, does anyone have an issue with the car vibrating when braking at 40+ miles? I've had the brakes checked, alignment done, pretty new tires, tires air checked, and pretty new KYB Gr2 shocks. Someone told me it may be the splash guards, but I don't see how that can cause car and steering wheel to vibrate/shake.
Hey guys, just picked up my new 6 generation 2007 se 3.5 black on black fully loaded...pics up asap. Im new to the nissan world, but stoked with my neew toy..not sure where i wanna go with it as far as performance and appearance, but this site is getting me going. Where should i start with some DIY's ...leds,debadge and for starters plasti dip the wheels..? Any suggestions would be great ....thank you in advance and hope to keep busy on this forum !!!
No power to the power outlet/ cigarette lighter outlet
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbu21
New to site and I need help. What fuse controls center console charger? No power to this outlet. Thanks for help!
First you need to remove the center console where the shifter is located. Below is a good link that shows you how this is done. Dash Disassembly
Once that is done you need to put a multimeter on the plug that was connected to the power connector/ cigarette lighter outlet. You should get around 12V. If you do then the outlet is burnt out (element). If you don't then you need to start tracing the source power back to the fuse block. I hope this helps.
Hello guys, recently bought a 05 maxima and want to put in a new radio but cannot find any pics of videos with after market HU or double din. Owned nothing but chevys up to this week so have no clue. I keep finding videos of how to remove the hole thing but thats it. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a '04 Max. Did you try closing the sunroof all the way first? If the sunroof is open to "vent" or just tilted, and you try to open it w/ the slide control, it does what you described...only opens a fraction at a time. So...close it all the way, then try the slide switch to open it. My teenage son had to show me this one.
just got my 05 SL on 1/30 it has about 84,500 miles on it...
now my question is..when i accelerate anywhere between 1-3000 rpms i hear a metal clangy, jingly, rattle sound..any inclination as to what it might be?
just got my 05 SL on 1/30 it has about 84,500 miles on it...
now my question is..when i accelerate anywhere between 1-3000 rpms i hear a metal clangy, jingly, rattle sound..any inclination as to what it might be?
thanks in advance!
Just to kinda narrow it down a little bit, where does is sound like its coming from?
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ok here is my question again
imy 2007 maxima se rpms are too high engine sound strugling sounds of clikin comes from under the car while ecelarating
toke it to dealer and they said replace TCM (transmition countole module) i wint to NTB to replace it for cheaper but did not fix the problem and brought it back to them they said car need new transmition what is up with that?? i went back to my dealer and asked me to come back moonday cuz of the holiday and i have apower train warranty from my dealer but u think they wpuld say anything? dont now if its trany for sure or not looks like it any thoughts????
I recently purchased a 2008 maxima and took it on a road trip to NC, I noticed that once I hit 70+ MPH the car would jolt, almost like I suddenly pushed the gas. I also noticed that when it did that, the RPMs would jump up. It was very sporadic and I figured maybe it was because the cruise control was on. Once the cruise control was turned off, it still had the same issue.....any thoughts???
I have recently purchased a 2005 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE and there are a few problems that have come up.
1st is that when i start the car and put it into reverse it take 3 to 5 seconds to got into reverse and drive takes about 2 to 3 seconds.
2nd is that when i drive at a set speed the peddle or the car i should say the car has a minor vibration and doesnt seem normal. If i slow down its fine and if i speed up its fine.
These are the only two majors issue with the car and if somebody has had similar problems please help me out.
Just to kinda narrow it down a little bit, where does is sound like its coming from?
boy am i late on the response with this one. i was reading around on throughout the forum and it seems as if it can have a direct correlation to the "exhaust bracket" as per here
whats your opinion? the sound is coming from the front of the vehicle and as the rattling is there when either leaving from a complete stop or between the 2-3500 rpm stage.
I have a clucking noise in the rear end of my 2005 Max SL when I drive over speed bumps or hit a pothole. My mechanic says it is the 2 rear lower control bars
(??Link ComplRear Suspension, Lower, Rear??) that need to be replaced. The side with the rubber (one arm) is why I am getting that noise, he says.
He says all other suspension parts look good - struts, shocks, etc.
Does the diagnosis seem to be on the correct path?
The noise doesn't happen all the time. If you bounce the rear of the car yourself it doesn't make any noises. He looked in my trunk for any loose parts, like the spare and jack, etc. Nothing loose.
He quoted me $95 for each arm and $200 labor.
I'm also starting to have the same noise on my driver's side front and he says it is the same problem-the control arm. He says I don't need to get them replaced ASAP, but he is going to get a price for the front control arms for me next week some time. I should get both replaced at the same time, he advised.
I am on a tight budget and saw where he orders his parts from and I did some research and saw that the rear lower control arms are priced at around $47.57, plus tax and shipping(online and when I called the parts dept.). Should I confront him about it?
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