PlasticDip with Gloss Finish Grill Till i get my EG-Grill
#1
PlasticDip with Gloss Finish Grill Till i get my EG-Grill
Ok well i had the same issue must people have with the pilling grill , well i seen a thread about plasticdip and i said let me try it but just to my grill ,
Here is how it look before the PD
And here is how it look after before i add it the grill to the car
Here it go on the car not Bad , Better than pilling grill that's for sure.
This picture was taking with a different phone sucks that phone lol.
Have a nice day.
Here is how it look before the PD
And here is how it look after before i add it the grill to the car
Here it go on the car not Bad , Better than pilling grill that's for sure.
This picture was taking with a different phone sucks that phone lol.
Have a nice day.
Last edited by MaxPrime; 06-04-2011 at 06:48 PM.
#6
No dont lol it will pill off , for the grill is a good thing but the car NO remember at the end of the day this is plastic lol it will come off thast why when i buy my new grill i will sell this one to who ever want it since i add it a gloss to it.
#11
#12
No i use a different brand gloss is not removable, the reason i did it like that because i am going to change the grill eventually so i want it to protect the PD, i will take a picture of the can and post it when i get it from my car.
#13
#16
Plasticdip grill
I like it. Way better than what it was. How did you do it? Did you use a paint brush since it comes in a small can? I've use this stuff in the past but all I did was dip the handle of my tools in the can.
#17
No I use the spray form or PD easy not the one you use in the past it looks just like a spray can black top on it.
#18
Here is the CLEAR GLOSS i use on top of the PlasticDip , note that this is not plastic gloss so is not removable, i know it may be different kind of CLEAR GLOSS but this one is very good and it dry fast on top of metal but on top of the PlasticDip you may want to leave there for longer time to insure best results.
CLARE GLOSS THAT I PUT ON TOP OF THE PLASTICDIP FOR THOSE WHO ASK OR WANT TO KNOW.
CLARE GLOSS THAT I PUT ON TOP OF THE PLASTICDIP FOR THOSE WHO ASK OR WANT TO KNOW.
Last edited by MaxPrime; 06-05-2011 at 09:29 AM.
#20
#21
#22
I didnt say i didnt want your opining what i said is that i dont see it and thank you for stoping by, i dont see nothing wrong with that , and again thanks.
Last edited by MaxPrime; 06-05-2011 at 12:00 PM.
#25
Well i am not going to have it that long but is much stronger with the clear gloss very strong feels like real paint but who knows only time will tell.
#26
Yeah i will for sure if anything happen to it i will take pictures and post them on here , i took the car to the wash today and the water didn't even stick to the grill , much better with clear gloss but like you said only time will tell.
#27
That's not what he means. "Orange peel" is just a term that refers to the ripple effect on the paint itself after you paint it and let it dry. If you look at it long enough than it resembles an orange peel. A lot of paint job has orange peel once it's finished and your lucky if you can avoid it. It depends on a LOT of factors that I'm not going to go into.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
Last edited by 6.5affiliate; 06-05-2011 at 03:45 PM.
#28
That's not what he means. "Orange peel" is just a term that refers to the ripple effect on the paint itself after you paint it and let it dry. If you look at it long enough than it resembles an orange peel. A lot of paint job has orange peel once it's finished and your lucky if you can avoid it. It depends on a LOT of factors that I'm not going to go into.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
unless you lay perfect layers down for each coat plastidip will have orange peel to it. the flatness of PD hides it but with clear you can see it easier.
so while you did a great job explaining how to do the proper finish on regular paint, you wouldn't be able to correct the orange peel by color sanding the job he did on his grille like RAZmaTAZ thought he could do LOL. with the pliable nature of PD im sure putting any kind of stress on it would crack the more brittle clear coat. kind like side walks, the pliable earth will shift during an earthquake but the more brittle concrete will crack.
#29
the orange peel you can BARELY see if you look up close on the grille is from the plastidip, not the clear. its just the nature of PD. the clear is what makes it noticeable. so i don't think doing a finish on the clear will do anything but make it shine more.
unless you lay perfect layers down for each coat plastidip will have orange peel to it. the flatness of PD hides it but with clear you can see it easier.
so while you did a great job explaining how to do the proper finish on regular paint, you wouldn't be able to correct the orange peel by color sanding the job he did on his grille like RAZmaTAZ thought he could do LOL. with the pliable nature of PD im sure putting any kind of stress on it would crack the more brittle clear coat. kind like side walks, the pliable earth will shift during an earthquake but the more brittle concrete will crack.
unless you lay perfect layers down for each coat plastidip will have orange peel to it. the flatness of PD hides it but with clear you can see it easier.
so while you did a great job explaining how to do the proper finish on regular paint, you wouldn't be able to correct the orange peel by color sanding the job he did on his grille like RAZmaTAZ thought he could do LOL. with the pliable nature of PD im sure putting any kind of stress on it would crack the more brittle clear coat. kind like side walks, the pliable earth will shift during an earthquake but the more brittle concrete will crack.
Wet-sanding would take out the orange peel that's on the clear coat itself, not the plasti-dip. It will still have a mirror-like finish to it.
Last edited by 6.5affiliate; 06-05-2011 at 06:05 PM.
#30
That's not what he means. "Orange peel" is just a term that refers to the ripple effect on the paint itself after you paint it and let it dry. If you look at it long enough than it resembles an orange peel. A lot of paint job has orange peel once it's finished and your lucky if you can avoid it. It depends on a LOT of factors that I'm not going to go into.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
It's the reason why most people like to color sand and buff after they finish paint. ESPECIALLY body shops like Maaco and businesses of that nature. Which is expected of them since car finishes should have the mirror effect when the paint job is done.
If you want a mirror type finish. Than you would have to color sand it and buff it out. It's pretty easy if you want to do it though:
1. Use a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and put it in some water and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
2. Then use very light pressure and sand everything down.
*If you use to much pressure than you'll be going through the clear coat and you will have to re-do the clear coat. Which means you have to sand it all off and put another coat of paint (or in your case, plasti-dip) then clear coat it all over again*
3. Follow it with 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
*By this time the paint should be smooth but it looks dull. Don't worry, you didn't mess up the paint *
4. Afterwards, use some good rubbing compound and polishing compound
5. Finish it by buffing it with glaze and polish
*These last two steps will bring back the color and gloss*
Not saying that you have to do it since it already looks good but, if you want it have a mirror like finish than these are the steps that you have to go through to get that.
#31
the orange peel you can BARELY see if you look up close on the grille is from the plastidip, not the clear. its just the nature of PD. the clear is what makes it noticeable. so i don't think doing a finish on the clear will do anything but make it shine more.
unless you lay perfect layers down for each coat plastidip will have orange peel to it. the flatness of PD hides it but with clear you can see it easier.
so while you did a great job explaining how to do the proper finish on regular paint, you wouldn't be able to correct the orange peel by color sanding the job he did on his grille like RAZmaTAZ thought he could do LOL. with the pliable nature of PD im sure putting any kind of stress on it would crack the more brittle clear coat. kind like side walks, the pliable earth will shift during an earthquake but the more brittle concrete will crack.
unless you lay perfect layers down for each coat plastidip will have orange peel to it. the flatness of PD hides it but with clear you can see it easier.
so while you did a great job explaining how to do the proper finish on regular paint, you wouldn't be able to correct the orange peel by color sanding the job he did on his grille like RAZmaTAZ thought he could do LOL. with the pliable nature of PD im sure putting any kind of stress on it would crack the more brittle clear coat. kind like side walks, the pliable earth will shift during an earthquake but the more brittle concrete will crack.
#32
No problem man, just trying to help out. Which EG grille you trying to get?
#34
It's a nice grille. I've seen a couple that had that one their ride. If you like that one than you might wanna check out this one without the emblem:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_2342wt_754
There's also the street scene grille that doesn't have the chrome boarder and the piece of steel in the middle:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SS...7322/?rtype=10
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_2342wt_754
There's also the street scene grille that doesn't have the chrome boarder and the piece of steel in the middle:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SS...7322/?rtype=10
#36
Personally, I'm not really the fan of the emblem in the front. I like a real clean look and plus, you can modify the one without the emblem to not even have the bar that goes down the middle.
That's just me, what really matters is what you want for your ride. I just put up some options for you.
That's just me, what really matters is what you want for your ride. I just put up some options for you.
#37
you did a great job man. i like the combo of pd and clear. im interested to see if putting any pressure on the job will crack the clear.
to 6.5 i don't think sand and buffing would be a good idea, clear coat is very brittle and it will bend and crack under the elasticity of plastidip with any kind of pressure.
maybe if he put a thick coat on and was really careful
to 6.5 i don't think sand and buffing would be a good idea, clear coat is very brittle and it will bend and crack under the elasticity of plastidip with any kind of pressure.
maybe if he put a thick coat on and was really careful
#38
Yes you can colorsand PD. I've been painting cars since you were probably in diapers. I did on my grill but there are tricks to do it correctly and doing it to the clear is not the way to do it. I could share the trick but you guys already know what the hell you are doing, don't need my advice.
sanding PlastiDip would make it look like ****!!! are you crazy? sanding will dull it out and make it look all scratched up and white!
#39
you did a great job man. i like the combo of pd and clear. im interested to see if putting any pressure on the job will crack the clear.
to 6.5 i don't think sand and buffing would be a good idea, clear coat is very brittle and it will bend and crack under the elasticity of plastidip with any kind of pressure.
maybe if he put a thick coat on and was really careful
to 6.5 i don't think sand and buffing would be a good idea, clear coat is very brittle and it will bend and crack under the elasticity of plastidip with any kind of pressure.
maybe if he put a thick coat on and was really careful
#40