2o4Max

Just wondering if anyone knows the exact torque value for the tranny drain plug. I checked the nissan service manual and the drawing gave an unclear torque value. Does anyone follow this exactly or do you all just use a "snug" tight feel like for the oil drain pan? It's come around time to change the tranny fluid soon, and i'm hopefully doing it in 2 weeks. Also I heard some guys change their tranny fluid like 3 times? man that's alot of oil to be wasting it seems, as I just picked up 6 quarts of Amsoil ATF for like $80+ after taxes...

Terrentius

I have an 07, and I cannot find it in the service manual. Actually, for the CVT, it does not talk about a drain plug. Rather, it talks about draining the fluid out through the cooler hose.

So, I would call the Dealership.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

just tighten it. do you think nissan torques it? how do you torque it with an allen wrench anyway?

hope the amsoil goes well for you. hey you got it cheaper than the matic-K. I changed mine at 59k and 63k. will do so again at 120, 150 etc. if i see more trannies going, i may suck it up and do 15k even if it is around $80 a change. I got out 4 quarts both times.

Machinist

With a Allen hex socket on your torque wrench.

Any decent mechanic has these in their tool box

2o4Max

There is a way to torque an allan wrench with the use of an adapter which I saw in the service manual. The Amsoil actually cost me a little more than the Matic-K fluid, and gave me a little bit less than I would have gotten through the dealer for just Matic-K. What I don't understand is the cost of draining and filling versus just taking out the whole drain pan, and transmission cooler lines. For the cost of the amount of fluid changes and intervals vs gasket material, and getting alot more of the old fluid out. Would it not be better to actually take off the drain pan, cooler lines and clean them? I don't know if there are magnets on the transmission pan or if it's just on the drain plug that removes small filings. Sure it is more work, but I would think it would be more suited than changing the transmission oil so much in short periods of time.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Agreed!

Just make sure that it's nice and snug. Obviously, you don't want to under-tighten it. Be sure to change the metal washer. When I got my car back, it was dripping fluid from the drain plug, because the shop neglected to change out the washer. I bought it from Nissan for like 3 dollars, pulled off the old one, slid on the new one, re-tightened nice and snug. No more leak

(I won't mention the bright idea of mine to think that I could MacGuyver the drain plug washer replacement, without 1st draining all of the ATF, WHILE the engine was still warm. I won't mention that at all. It did not end so well). I will, however, mention that hot ATF does not taste so good.

2o4Max

I called the service department and asked right away actually about the washer for the tranny drain plug they told me my car in particular needed a different washer than that of the oil drain plug (5AT). But some other models use the same washer as the oil drain plug (I have a couple). So case in short the dealer told me they would have the transmission drain plugs I ordered by Thursday. The most annoying thing I don't want to run into ever again is assuming I have stock of everything I need to do the job. Then end up having to borrow a car to get things I thought I had in stock to finish the job.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

i figured they existed, but is it really worth it? I'm not concerned about over tightening by hand.
I didn't replace the washer... but no leaks
guess I'll do it next time.

2o4Max

For anyone curious, the transmission drain plug is actually 29ft/lb after reviewing the drawing again and finding the legend. This may or may not be so important but for anyone who considers removing the actual transmission fluid drain pan knowing torque values are very important along with the sequencing of when the pan goes back on with a new gasket.