View Poll Results: What is your experience with the 5AT?
Voters: 229. You may not vote on this poll
RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
04-05-2014, 11:04 AM
#1401
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5
Did Drain and Fill
A mechanic shop would probably be less expensive than a transmission shop (if they would even take it on). This is a simple job for a mechanic shop. The Rostra's come with installation instructions.
If the mechanic you took it to was glad you did your research and passed it on to him, then print out rpsuprdave's How To instructions and give them and the Rostra installation instructions to him. I'm sure being a mechanic he can figure it out.
If he doesn't want to take it on you'll have to find one that will.
With only 57K miles on yours you could try another (possibly a couple or even a few more) atf flush(es) and you may get it shifting good again, (no guarantee though). Could be costly with the price of Matic K, and you may end up having to do the solenoids in the end.
If the mechanic you took it to was glad you did your research and passed it on to him, then print out rpsuprdave's How To instructions and give them and the Rostra installation instructions to him. I'm sure being a mechanic he can figure it out.
If he doesn't want to take it on you'll have to find one that will.
With only 57K miles on yours you could try another (possibly a couple or even a few more) atf flush(es) and you may get it shifting good again, (no guarantee though). Could be costly with the price of Matic K, and you may end up having to do the solenoids in the end.
04-05-2014, 02:58 PM
#1402
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
My mechanic also took the car to his Nissan transmission specialist that tested the solenoids for ohm and found them all to be perfect. Also tore down the transmission(I believe, not sure) and said the tranny is in great condition. However, my crankshaft sensors were shot and the car had codes stored for them(no ses light ever came on). All the sensors were replaced with oems and the car shifts a whole lot better now. He did the relearn as well and the car is still getting used to my driving patterns. But so far so good. I will keep updating as I go but I will buy the Rostra Kit just incase(dont know if they will be easy to get when I really do need them). He did another drain and fill with Matic K fluid and all seems to be well. I will try and do a drain and fill every 12000 Miles just to be safe.
The problem with the solenoids aren't that they go bad, they get grit in them and can't preform properly. I'd be willing to bet that every OE solenoid in every one of these transmissions that had/has shifting issues would test to be fine (electronically speaking). But the slightest bit of dirty Matic K causes them to act up.
These transmissions are very good trannys.
That seems to be the key, keep the Matic K changed often.
Most cars you can get a lifetime (by car standards) without changing it's atf and not having issues (I don't recommend it). But certainly not these.
04-05-2014, 03:32 PM
#1403
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5
Thanks
Thanks rainman. I will be buying the kits in a week or so. I'll keep them on standby for now. Will keep everyone posted aswell. I read at the 6th gen forums that amsoil is a better lubricant for our trannys because of better viscosity. Is this true?
04-05-2014, 05:12 PM
#1404
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 21
Finally after 4 hours of work, it didn't go well, the 2 t-40 bolt next to the atf cooler were scrapped from the inside (I don't know if the last owner of the car played with the tranny before me) and I couldn't remove them, so I put the others bolts back and put new oil and the solenoid are still not installed. I will go to the dealer buy another 4 quart of oil and see if they have a set of t-40 bolt and will bring it to a mechanic to do the job, I don't know how much they will charge for breaking the 2 bolt at a rate of 100$ per hour, that's not fair, I can do the job but the ***** t40 bolts don't wanna come out,I hate my car -_-
After I putted everything like before, I drove the car very aggressive, does it scrapped the `relearn` or there is no relearn when I only change the oil ?
After I putted everything like before, I drove the car very aggressive, does it scrapped the `relearn` or there is no relearn when I only change the oil ?
04-06-2014, 07:37 AM
#1405
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Nissan says only use Matic K in them. (will it do any harm, ???, do you want to chance it? I'm sure there are some who use other atf than Matic K. I'd like to know the long term results).
You could call the amsoil company and ask them if their product can be used in place of Nissan Matic K. My guess is they will say no.
04-06-2014, 07:56 AM
#1406
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Finally after 4 hours of work, it didn't go well, the 2 t-40 bolt next to the atf cooler were scrapped from the inside (I don't know if the last owner of the car played with the tranny before me) and I couldn't remove them, so I put the others bolts back and put new oil and the solenoid are still not installed. I will go to the dealer buy another 4 quart of oil and see if they have a set of t-40 bolt and will bring it to a mechanic to do the job, I don't know how much they will charge for breaking the 2 bolt at a rate of 100$ per hour, that's not fair, I can do the job but the ***** t40 bolts don't wanna come out,I hate my car -_-
After I putted everything like before, I drove the car very aggressive, does it scrapped the `relearn` or there is no relearn when I only change the oil ?
After I putted everything like before, I drove the car very aggressive, does it scrapped the `relearn` or there is no relearn when I only change the oil ?
Those bolts only have 10 ft. pounds of torque on them (supposed to). All mine came out without any problems.
So did the bolt head break off or is it stripped and won't back out? Or, did the torx bit strip? Make sure to use a good T-40 bit. Mine are Harbor Freight but they are the impact models.
Would have to be the hardest one to get at. Be tough to drill and use an easy out on that one.
From Nissan those bolts are 8 bucks each. May want to just buy the one you need (if they will sell it solo).
The relearn would come in to play only if the solenoids were changed. To "teach" the new ones your driving habits.
Last edited by Rainman1; 04-06-2014 at 09:02 AM.
04-06-2014, 09:12 AM
#1407
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 21
Well that's a bummer.
Those bolts only have 10 ft. pounds of torque on them (supposed to). All mine came out without any problems.
So did the bolt head break off or is it stripped and won't back out?
Would have to be the hardest one to get at. Be tough to drill and use an easy out on that one.
From Nissan those bolts are 8 bucks each. May want to just buy the one you need (if they will sell it solo).
The relearn would come in to play only if the solenoids were changed. To "teach" the new ones your driving habits.
Those bolts only have 10 ft. pounds of torque on them (supposed to). All mine came out without any problems.
So did the bolt head break off or is it stripped and won't back out?
Would have to be the hardest one to get at. Be tough to drill and use an easy out on that one.
From Nissan those bolts are 8 bucks each. May want to just buy the one you need (if they will sell it solo).
The relearn would come in to play only if the solenoids were changed. To "teach" the new ones your driving habits.
I will need to buy 2 new bolts when the stripped ones will be removed.
04-06-2014, 01:17 PM
#1408
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
They make drill bits that the rear is shaped like a bit that chucks into an extension. Like these (but not sure if those would hold up for drilling bolts).
You put it into a drill extension. Just a thought.
http://www.harborfreight.com/titaniu...ece-61621.html
I know it's a pain cause it's tough to get to it.
04-06-2014, 02:19 PM
#1409
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 21
Are the threads stripped or the torx head? Either way it's going to require drilling.
They make drill bits that the rear is shaped like a bit that chucks into an extension. Like these (but not sure if those would hold up for drilling bolts).
You put it into a drill extension. Just a thought.
http://www.harborfreight.com/titaniu...ece-61621.html
I know it's a pain cause it's tough to get to it.
They make drill bits that the rear is shaped like a bit that chucks into an extension. Like these (but not sure if those would hold up for drilling bolts).
You put it into a drill extension. Just a thought.
http://www.harborfreight.com/titaniu...ece-61621.html
I know it's a pain cause it's tough to get to it.
My tranny is starting to leak oil, the seal broke when I removed the 7 other bolts and can't reseal it. I need use my car everyday, I pray it don't break until I repair it.
04-06-2014, 03:44 PM
#1410
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Waww thanks, didn't know it exist, I will buy a set and give it a try next week, after a stop at nissan for matic k and ask about the bolt if they sell them in solo.
My tranny is starting to leak oil, the seal broke when I removed the 7 other bolts and can't reseal it. I need use my car everyday, I pray it don't break until I repair it.
My tranny is starting to leak oil, the seal broke when I removed the 7 other bolts and can't reseal it. I need use my car everyday, I pray it don't break until I repair it.
You could tighten the other 7 bolts up a bit to see if that stops or slows the leak to make it till you can give it another go. Slightly, don't want to strip any more. Just keep checking the Matic K level often if you have to use it.
When/if you attempt the drilling, take it slow, don't rush it. Lubricate the bit and bolt head to help the drill bit cut better and stay cooler. That's a tight working area, better to take your time and get it than to rush it and make things worse.
On the bolts you could go to a nut/bolt supply (Industrial Screw) and see if they might have something that would work. So what if it had a different type head on it. As long as the threads and lengths are correct. (If Nissan doesn't want to sell you just 2).
Last edited by Rainman1; 04-06-2014 at 03:49 PM.
04-07-2014, 05:15 AM
#1411
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5
Flare shifts 2-3
Alright after a 500 mile trip with the vehicle I realized that during stop and go traffic the flares still present. I also believe that I should get a firm ware update from Nissan. (The car desperately needs it) I'm gonna purchase the rostra solenoids and hit up this dyno shop to see if they will install it for me. Overall the car shifts far better than it has since I bought it.
04-07-2014, 07:37 AM
#1412
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 21
May want to shop around to see if you can find some better ones. Not sure how those will do on steel. They may make you madder than you already are with it. Home Depot may have some better quality ones like that style. Use a "good" extension with it.
You could tighten the other 7 bolts up a bit to see if that stops or slows the leak to make it till you can give it another go. Slightly, don't want to strip any more. Just keep checking the Matic K level often if you have to use it.
When/if you attempt the drilling, take it slow, don't rush it. Lubricate the bit and bolt head to help the drill bit cut better and stay cooler. That's a tight working area, better to take your time and get it than to rush it and make things worse.
On the bolts you could go to a nut/bolt supply (Industrial Screw) and see if they might have something that would work. So what if it had a different type head on it. As long as the threads and lengths are correct. (If Nissan doesn't want to sell you just 2).
You could tighten the other 7 bolts up a bit to see if that stops or slows the leak to make it till you can give it another go. Slightly, don't want to strip any more. Just keep checking the Matic K level often if you have to use it.
When/if you attempt the drilling, take it slow, don't rush it. Lubricate the bit and bolt head to help the drill bit cut better and stay cooler. That's a tight working area, better to take your time and get it than to rush it and make things worse.
On the bolts you could go to a nut/bolt supply (Industrial Screw) and see if they might have something that would work. So what if it had a different type head on it. As long as the threads and lengths are correct. (If Nissan doesn't want to sell you just 2).
I have tighten the other bolts and the leak is gone, oil level is good, will chek it everyday.
Yeah sure if nissan don't want to sell me 2 bolts, I will see at other places.
04-07-2014, 06:19 PM
#1413
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
I just bought the transgo kit and installed it myself on my wifes 06. Took the whole weekend because I was slow and careful and had not done one before, but it worth it. Car drives like new. I bought it on ebay, from CT transmission for $117. Make sure you get the full kit which includes the gaskets. I am a happy camper, saved $2500 !! Good luck.
04-09-2014, 07:14 AM
#1414
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
Rostra solenoids
Hey All-
I just got a 2004 SL, 133k miles. It's a fantastic car but of course it seems to have these tranny issues. After a warmup it shifts hard into drive sometimes and occasionally the downshifts are really hard. Once I drove to test it out after doing a drain and refill and slowed to about 30 and accelerated hard and it hesitated and then slammed into gear. I did three drain and refills with valvoline maxlife full synthetic. It seemed a bit better but not quite.
Anyways, after reading through this thread quite a bit, I purchased the rostra solenoids on eBay brand new for $200.
It looks like it will be a fairly easy job, especially since a couple years ago I replaced a knock sensor in a 1993 VE max. What scares me is the potential need to calibrate the solenoids once installed. I don't want to have to do that if at all possible. Are there ways to minimize that or have most people just installed them with no need to calibrate?
I considered the valve body approach but it sounded cheaper to just do the solenoids.
Thanks for all the help guys this is an awesome thread!
I just got a 2004 SL, 133k miles. It's a fantastic car but of course it seems to have these tranny issues. After a warmup it shifts hard into drive sometimes and occasionally the downshifts are really hard. Once I drove to test it out after doing a drain and refill and slowed to about 30 and accelerated hard and it hesitated and then slammed into gear. I did three drain and refills with valvoline maxlife full synthetic. It seemed a bit better but not quite.
Anyways, after reading through this thread quite a bit, I purchased the rostra solenoids on eBay brand new for $200.
It looks like it will be a fairly easy job, especially since a couple years ago I replaced a knock sensor in a 1993 VE max. What scares me is the potential need to calibrate the solenoids once installed. I don't want to have to do that if at all possible. Are there ways to minimize that or have most people just installed them with no need to calibrate?
I considered the valve body approach but it sounded cheaper to just do the solenoids.
Thanks for all the help guys this is an awesome thread!
04-09-2014, 08:31 AM
#1415
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Hey All-
I just got a 2004 SL, 133k miles. It's a fantastic car but of course it seems to have these tranny issues. After a warmup it shifts hard into drive sometimes and occasionally the downshifts are really hard. Once I drove to test it out after doing a drain and refill and slowed to about 30 and accelerated hard and it hesitated and then slammed into gear. I did three drain and refills with valvoline maxlife full synthetic. It seemed a bit better but not quite.
Anyways, after reading through this thread quite a bit, I purchased the rostra solenoids on eBay brand new for $200.
It looks like it will be a fairly easy job, especially since a couple years ago I replaced a knock sensor in a 1993 VE max. What scares me is the potential need to calibrate the solenoids once installed. I don't want to have to do that if at all possible. Are there ways to minimize that or have most people just installed them with no need to calibrate?
I considered the valve body approach but it sounded cheaper to just do the solenoids.
Thanks for all the help guys this is an awesome thread!
I just got a 2004 SL, 133k miles. It's a fantastic car but of course it seems to have these tranny issues. After a warmup it shifts hard into drive sometimes and occasionally the downshifts are really hard. Once I drove to test it out after doing a drain and refill and slowed to about 30 and accelerated hard and it hesitated and then slammed into gear. I did three drain and refills with valvoline maxlife full synthetic. It seemed a bit better but not quite.
Anyways, after reading through this thread quite a bit, I purchased the rostra solenoids on eBay brand new for $200.
It looks like it will be a fairly easy job, especially since a couple years ago I replaced a knock sensor in a 1993 VE max. What scares me is the potential need to calibrate the solenoids once installed. I don't want to have to do that if at all possible. Are there ways to minimize that or have most people just installed them with no need to calibrate?
I considered the valve body approach but it sounded cheaper to just do the solenoids.
Thanks for all the help guys this is an awesome thread!
Rostra says they calibrate them as a set, and I'm sure they're calibrated to the transmissions specs needed. In most cases no adjustments should be needed. Each car varies though.
I'd be more concerned about using anything other than Matic K in the transmission.
04-09-2014, 09:34 AM
#1416
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
So these should work fine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AW-55-50SN-55-51SN-AF33-NEW-LINEAR-SOLENOID-KIT-ROSTRA-SAAB-EQUINOX-MAXIMA-VOLVO-/230750478006?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9ccdeb6&vxp=mtr
That's what I bought.
The valvoline oil said matic k on the back but should I probably use the genuine stuff when I do the solenoids?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AW-55-50SN-55-51SN-AF33-NEW-LINEAR-SOLENOID-KIT-ROSTRA-SAAB-EQUINOX-MAXIMA-VOLVO-/230750478006?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b9ccdeb6&vxp=mtr
That's what I bought.
The valvoline oil said matic k on the back but should I probably use the genuine stuff when I do the solenoids?
04-09-2014, 04:55 PM
#1417
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
So these should work fine?
AW 55 50SN 55 51SN AF33 New Linear Solenoid Kit Rostra Saab Equinox Maxima Volvo | eBay
That's what I bought.
The valvoline oil said matic k on the back but should I probably use the genuine stuff when I do the solenoids?
AW 55 50SN 55 51SN AF33 New Linear Solenoid Kit Rostra Saab Equinox Maxima Volvo | eBay
That's what I bought.
The valvoline oil said matic k on the back but should I probably use the genuine stuff when I do the solenoids?
Well, Nissan say only to use Nissan Matic K in them. (but they seem to be capitalizing on cars they sold with transmissions that needed lots of the stuff due to design problems. And not to mention they sell the stuff at an expensive cost).
If the Valvoline says it takes the place of Matic K, I guess you're fine.
May try it myself when I need to do a change (depending on cost per qt difference).
But I wouldn't mix them, go with all of one or the other. There's more than just 3.5 qts in the system.
Last edited by Rainman1; 04-09-2014 at 06:03 PM.
04-27-2014, 01:43 PM
#1418
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
fixed with rostra solenoids
I managed to fix it with the rostra solenoids. Had my girlfriends dad help me out because he has a lift and everything in their garage. Did not have to remove the valve body, only the cover. Like everyone said, there's that one T-40 bolt thats extremely hard to access with standard tools.
Also, after attaching the bracket on the bottom two solenoids, there was no free play in the middle one when rotating the solenoids. I thought there should be some since the other two moved a bit, and before removing the old solenoids they moved too if you tried rotating them. We removed the bracket and wiggled them around and re-attached the bracket. Now there was a little wiggle in each of them so I figured it was safe to put the valve body cover back on. Warmed the car up and test drove it, tried to do the re-learn procedure but I ended up pretty much just gently driving the car on a dirt road for awhile and shifting from P-R-N-D and back a few times. Then I drove it hard and not once did it exhibit symptoms. The hard, delayed engagement from R-D-R is gone as is the hard downshift from 2-1 and the flare shifts from 2-3. None of my symptoms would show up until about 20 minutes of driving; now they are completely gone.
The only thing I still seem to notice is when cold, the shift from 2-3 is sometimes a bit noticeable (compared to the other shifts) but still not bad. It's a slight bump. I suspect it's just the transmission, not anything solenoid related. Probably not an issue at all. When it warms up it smooths out 99% of the time for that shift. Overall seems to be working just great now! Thanks to everyone on this forum for all their help, especially rainman1
Also, after attaching the bracket on the bottom two solenoids, there was no free play in the middle one when rotating the solenoids. I thought there should be some since the other two moved a bit, and before removing the old solenoids they moved too if you tried rotating them. We removed the bracket and wiggled them around and re-attached the bracket. Now there was a little wiggle in each of them so I figured it was safe to put the valve body cover back on. Warmed the car up and test drove it, tried to do the re-learn procedure but I ended up pretty much just gently driving the car on a dirt road for awhile and shifting from P-R-N-D and back a few times. Then I drove it hard and not once did it exhibit symptoms. The hard, delayed engagement from R-D-R is gone as is the hard downshift from 2-1 and the flare shifts from 2-3. None of my symptoms would show up until about 20 minutes of driving; now they are completely gone.
The only thing I still seem to notice is when cold, the shift from 2-3 is sometimes a bit noticeable (compared to the other shifts) but still not bad. It's a slight bump. I suspect it's just the transmission, not anything solenoid related. Probably not an issue at all. When it warms up it smooths out 99% of the time for that shift. Overall seems to be working just great now! Thanks to everyone on this forum for all their help, especially rainman1
04-29-2014, 05:46 AM
#1419
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
I managed to fix it with the rostra solenoids. Had my girlfriends dad help me out because he has a lift and everything in their garage. Did not have to remove the valve body, only the cover. Like everyone said, there's that one T-40 bolt thats extremely hard to access with standard tools.
Also, after attaching the bracket on the bottom two solenoids, there was no free play in the middle one when rotating the solenoids. I thought there should be some since the other two moved a bit, and before removing the old solenoids they moved too if you tried rotating them. We removed the bracket and wiggled them around and re-attached the bracket. Now there was a little wiggle in each of them so I figured it was safe to put the valve body cover back on. Warmed the car up and test drove it, tried to do the re-learn procedure but I ended up pretty much just gently driving the car on a dirt road for awhile and shifting from P-R-N-D and back a few times. Then I drove it hard and not once did it exhibit symptoms. The hard, delayed engagement from R-D-R is gone as is the hard downshift from 2-1 and the flare shifts from 2-3. None of my symptoms would show up until about 20 minutes of driving; now they are completely gone.
The only thing I still seem to notice is when cold, the shift from 2-3 is sometimes a bit noticeable (compared to the other shifts) but still not bad. It's a slight bump. I suspect it's just the transmission, not anything solenoid related. Probably not an issue at all. When it warms up it smooths out 99% of the time for that shift. Overall seems to be working just great now! Thanks to everyone on this forum for all their help, especially rainman1
Also, after attaching the bracket on the bottom two solenoids, there was no free play in the middle one when rotating the solenoids. I thought there should be some since the other two moved a bit, and before removing the old solenoids they moved too if you tried rotating them. We removed the bracket and wiggled them around and re-attached the bracket. Now there was a little wiggle in each of them so I figured it was safe to put the valve body cover back on. Warmed the car up and test drove it, tried to do the re-learn procedure but I ended up pretty much just gently driving the car on a dirt road for awhile and shifting from P-R-N-D and back a few times. Then I drove it hard and not once did it exhibit symptoms. The hard, delayed engagement from R-D-R is gone as is the hard downshift from 2-1 and the flare shifts from 2-3. None of my symptoms would show up until about 20 minutes of driving; now they are completely gone.
The only thing I still seem to notice is when cold, the shift from 2-3 is sometimes a bit noticeable (compared to the other shifts) but still not bad. It's a slight bump. I suspect it's just the transmission, not anything solenoid related. Probably not an issue at all. When it warms up it smooths out 99% of the time for that shift. Overall seems to be working just great now! Thanks to everyone on this forum for all their help, especially rainman1
Great to hear.
All the credit goes to the this site Maxima.org, to the OP po8pimp for starting the thread and to rpsuprdave for taking the time and effort to do that awesome How To write up. That really helped me and pumped me up to take on the job myself. I read every reply on every page of this thread and many others on other forums to get to the bottom of the issue. Glad I did. I just wish it would have been figured out that the solenoids needed fixing from the start of these tranny's issues. I hate wasting hard earned money, mine or others.
I think what it is is that we're so sensitive to the shifting issue(s) that we are looking for the smallest hiccup when driving them.
I still pay way too much attention to it when I drive my Wife's car. It's at 6 K miles since the Rostra install and still shifts fine. Thinking about doing a matic K drain/fill soon just for good maintenance sake (if I get around to it). I'm going to have to take care of the motor mounts eventually.
Last edited by Rainman1; 04-29-2014 at 05:47 AM. Reason: spelling
05-01-2014, 10:33 AM
#1420
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 21
I bought my Maxima new in 2004 and I have 128k on it now. At about 100k the transmission started clunking at low speed.
From reading this forum I purchased the AW55-50SN 55-51SN AF33 NEW LINEAR SOLENOID KIT ROSTRA EQUINOX MAXIMA VOLVO 99404 kit on Ebay.
I spoke to my mechanic and he agreed to try the installation. He had a hard time getting the gasket for the pan. It took a few extra days to get it and it was $99 because he had to buy a kit with the gasket.
I was charged $200 for labor. And additional charges for the oil.
Car now runs like new. No clunking. No bucking. And it was getting bad.
He did call the Nissan dealer for the gasket and they told him they can't get it and they will only change the transmission and not even the valve body.
Thanks to everyone that helped in finding this solution.
From reading this forum I purchased the AW55-50SN 55-51SN AF33 NEW LINEAR SOLENOID KIT ROSTRA EQUINOX MAXIMA VOLVO 99404 kit on Ebay.
I spoke to my mechanic and he agreed to try the installation. He had a hard time getting the gasket for the pan. It took a few extra days to get it and it was $99 because he had to buy a kit with the gasket.
I was charged $200 for labor. And additional charges for the oil.
Car now runs like new. No clunking. No bucking. And it was getting bad.
He did call the Nissan dealer for the gasket and they told him they can't get it and they will only change the transmission and not even the valve body.
Thanks to everyone that helped in finding this solution.
05-01-2014, 07:56 PM
#1421
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
I bought my Maxima new in 2004 and I have 128k on it now. At about 100k the transmission started clunking at low speed.
From reading this forum I purchased the AW55-50SN 55-51SN AF33 NEW LINEAR SOLENOID KIT ROSTRA EQUINOX MAXIMA VOLVO 99404 kit on Ebay.
I spoke to my mechanic and he agreed to try the installation. He had a hard time getting the gasket for the pan. It took a few extra days to get it and it was $99 because he had to buy a kit with the gasket.
I was charged $200 for labor. And additional charges for the oil.
Car now runs like new. No clunking. No bucking. And it was getting bad.
He did call the Nissan dealer for the gasket and they told him they can't get it and they will only change the transmission and not even the valve body.
Thanks to everyone that helped in finding this solution.
From reading this forum I purchased the AW55-50SN 55-51SN AF33 NEW LINEAR SOLENOID KIT ROSTRA EQUINOX MAXIMA VOLVO 99404 kit on Ebay.
I spoke to my mechanic and he agreed to try the installation. He had a hard time getting the gasket for the pan. It took a few extra days to get it and it was $99 because he had to buy a kit with the gasket.
I was charged $200 for labor. And additional charges for the oil.
Car now runs like new. No clunking. No bucking. And it was getting bad.
He did call the Nissan dealer for the gasket and they told him they can't get it and they will only change the transmission and not even the valve body.
Thanks to everyone that helped in finding this solution.
Wish you would have check with us about the gasket, could have saved you about 90 bucks. The VB covers don't have gaskets on them from the factory (mine didn't, it had RTV (red) sealant as the gasket from factory). You use RTV (black) sealant to reseal the VB cover.
I actually saw the VB gaskets (aftermarket) on some web site fairly cheap but I went back with RTV.
Now do some routine Matic K fluid changes to keep it shifting smooth.
05-06-2014, 11:07 PM
#1422
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
I need someone/shop to install Rostra kit in Dallas
Anyone in the Dallas area willing to install the Rostra kit on my wife's 2004 Maxima SE or know of a shop that will do it? We need to sell the car but it's slipping and shifting hard.
05-07-2014, 07:12 AM
#1423
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Read the last 2 or 3 pages of this thread. There's another member that's in Dallas that had his Rostra's installed by a mechanic shop in Dallas (or near Dallas).
You can PM him through this site (or email if he has it set up) and get the shops name. He did have some issues with his car afterwards but he had other mechanic work done elsewhere that may have caused it. He was replying back and forth about it but we never heard the end result of his issues.
05-07-2014, 04:34 PM
#1424
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
Read the last 2 or 3 pages of this thread. There's another member that's in Dallas that had his Rostra's installed by a mechanic shop in Dallas (or near Dallas).
You can PM him through this site (or email if he has it set up) and get the shops name. He did have some issues with his car afterwards but he had other mechanic work done elsewhere that may have caused it. He was replying back and forth about it but we never heard the end result of his issues.
You can PM him through this site (or email if he has it set up) and get the shops name. He did have some issues with his car afterwards but he had other mechanic work done elsewhere that may have caused it. He was replying back and forth about it but we never heard the end result of his issues.
05-07-2014, 04:36 PM
#1425
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2
Great to hear!
Wish you would have check with us about the gasket, could have saved you about 90 bucks. The VB covers don't have gaskets on them from the factory (mine didn't, it had RTV (red) sealant as the gasket from factory). You use RTV (black) sealant to reseal the VB cover.
I actually saw the VB gaskets (aftermarket) on some web site fairly cheap but I went back with RTV.
Now do some routine Matic K fluid changes to keep it shifting smooth.
Wish you would have check with us about the gasket, could have saved you about 90 bucks. The VB covers don't have gaskets on them from the factory (mine didn't, it had RTV (red) sealant as the gasket from factory). You use RTV (black) sealant to reseal the VB cover.
I actually saw the VB gaskets (aftermarket) on some web site fairly cheap but I went back with RTV.
Now do some routine Matic K fluid changes to keep it shifting smooth.
05-07-2014, 07:22 PM
#1427
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Rainman1, I have a 05 Maxima SE, 5sp Auto, that has the same shifting issues. I will buy and replace the 3 solenoids with the Rostra solenoids. One transmission shop told me that I should have the car computer software updated as well. Is this necessary and did you or anyone else updated the software? Thank you everyone on this forum for all the great information and instruction on how to fix this shifting issue.
All I did was install the Rostra solenoids. Having the battery disconnected the whole time reset the cars computer so I did the driving relearn once I had it all back together.
I would like to know more about having the computer software updated myself. Maybe the OP or someone that knows or had it done could help us out with that. Wonder what, if any benefits come from it.
Last edited by Rainman1; 05-07-2014 at 07:24 PM.
05-12-2014, 02:14 PM
#1428
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 21
Finally, I took my car to a tranny shop and they replace the solenoids, cost 400$ but worth it, now I'm happy when I drive it, I don't have to worry about when it will start to jerk, it shift like a new one, I noticed that it has more power and the gas consumption is better. The oil leak that I had was from something between the axleshaft and the tranny, they repair it too.
Thank you all for your reply. That was a hell of a problem but its gone.
Thank you all for your reply. That was a hell of a problem but its gone.
05-12-2014, 06:38 PM
#1429
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Finally, I took my car to a tranny shop and they replace the solenoids, cost 400$ but worth it, now I'm happy when I drive it, I don't have to worry about when it will start to jerk, it shift like a new one, I noticed that it has more power and the gas consumption is better. The oil leak that I had was from something between the axleshaft and the tranny, they repair it too.
Thank you all for your reply. That was a hell of a problem but its gone.
Thank you all for your reply. That was a hell of a problem but its gone.
05-22-2014, 01:16 PM
#1431
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 2
Seems like I have read/heard it talked about (may have read it somewhere in this thread).
All I did was install the Rostra solenoids. Having the battery disconnected the whole time reset the cars computer so I did the driving relearn once I had it all back together.
I would like to know more about having the computer software updated myself. Maybe the OP or someone that knows or had it done could help us out with that. Wonder what, if any benefits come from it.
All I did was install the Rostra solenoids. Having the battery disconnected the whole time reset the cars computer so I did the driving relearn once I had it all back together.
I would like to know more about having the computer software updated myself. Maybe the OP or someone that knows or had it done could help us out with that. Wonder what, if any benefits come from it.
One thing I noticed is when I'm driving on the freeway at 70mph, the rpm is a bit high around 2350. I don't remember it was that high before the shifting issue. Did you experience this? My lexus suv is about 2000 rpm at the same speed. Just curious to see if this is normal or not.
05-23-2014, 06:37 AM
#1432
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Hi Rainman1, I took my maxima to a local transmission shop and have the Rostra solenoid replaced the OEM last week. My car is now running smooth and show no shifting issue. I did not do the software update as I don't know much about any benefit of doing that (save $170). Like you and other members suggested, I will change the ATF often (~12k or so) to keep the shifting issue from coming back.
One thing I noticed is when I'm driving on the freeway at 70mph, the rpm is a bit high around 2350. I don't remember it was that high before the shifting issue. Did you experience this? My lexus suv is about 2000 rpm at the same speed. Just curious to see if this is normal or not.
One thing I noticed is when I'm driving on the freeway at 70mph, the rpm is a bit high around 2350. I don't remember it was that high before the shifting issue. Did you experience this? My lexus suv is about 2000 rpm at the same speed. Just curious to see if this is normal or not.
05-23-2014, 02:50 PM
#1434
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 10
Sorry for the last post... I just got my valve body fixed from the shop. Before the fix, my VDC light was on. So after I pick it up from the shop I drive for 30 MINS. The VDC light comes on making the car go extremely slow. I already replaced my bank 2 camshaft sensor. To resolve the stuck in 5th gear issue. has anybody experience this problem and know what the solution is?
05-24-2014, 06:50 AM
#1435
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Sorry for the last post... I just got my valve body fixed from the shop. Before the fix, my VDC light was on. So after I pick it up from the shop I drive for 30 MINS. The VDC light comes on making the car go extremely slow. I already replaced my bank 2 camshaft sensor. To resolve the stuck in 5th gear issue. has anybody experience this problem and know what the solution is?
I was able to make mine go into limp mode (stuck in 5th) right before I did my Rostras but that's the extent of my experience with that. I shut off the car/restarted to get it back in 1st then drove it to the spot where I changed the solenoids. No issues with that since.
06-05-2014, 02:21 PM
#1437
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 104
Good deal. Keep that Matic K changed regularly. The new design of the Rostra solenoids let more fluid (and particles) flow through than what the original solenoids do. Regular Matic K changes will help keep particles out of the system.
06-06-2014, 12:57 PM
#1438
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3
Nissan Maxima 2004
Dear All,
I just purchased 2004 Nissan Maxima (80K), I love driving it and I paid all of my money(I am student), So please help. The only problem that I see in my car is that sometimes when the engine is cold in shifting between 2nd gear to 3rd one I feel some jumps , but they are not too much, and they will be gone after driving for while, I just read so many complains about Nissan Maxima Transmission 2004. I showed the car to my mechanic he says it is fine, but I am worried about the transmission since this car is my saving for 1 year, so please help, what should I do? Should I buy something to remove that jumps or my transmission is gonna be broken in near future
???Thank you so much in advance,
I just purchased 2004 Nissan Maxima (80K), I love driving it and I paid all of my money(I am student), So please help. The only problem that I see in my car is that sometimes when the engine is cold in shifting between 2nd gear to 3rd one I feel some jumps , but they are not too much, and they will be gone after driving for while, I just read so many complains about Nissan Maxima Transmission 2004. I showed the car to my mechanic he says it is fine, but I am worried about the transmission since this car is my saving for 1 year, so please help, what should I do? Should I buy something to remove that jumps or my transmission is gonna be broken in near future
???Thank you so much in advance,
06-06-2014, 01:18 PM
#1439
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lagos, Nigeria
Posts: 862
Dear All,
I just purchased 2004 Nissan Maxima (80K), I love driving it and I paid all of my money(I am student), So please help. The only problem that I see in my car is that sometimes when the engine is cold in shifting between 2nd gear to 3rd one I feel some jumps , but they are not too much, and they will be gone after driving for while, I just read so many complains about Nissan Maxima Transmission 2004. I showed the car to my mechanic he says it is fine, but I am worried about the transmission since this car is my saving for 1 year, so please help, what should I do? Should I buy something to remove that jumps or my transmission is gonna be broken in near future???Thank you so much in advance,
I just purchased 2004 Nissan Maxima (80K), I love driving it and I paid all of my money(I am student), So please help. The only problem that I see in my car is that sometimes when the engine is cold in shifting between 2nd gear to 3rd one I feel some jumps , but they are not too much, and they will be gone after driving for while, I just read so many complains about Nissan Maxima Transmission 2004. I showed the car to my mechanic he says it is fine, but I am worried about the transmission since this car is my saving for 1 year, so please help, what should I do? Should I buy something to remove that jumps or my transmission is gonna be broken in near future
???Thank you so much in advance,Good luck with your new car.
06-06-2014, 01:33 PM
#1440
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3
Welcome to the org. There is a possibility that your mounts are bad. If so that should be easy to deal with. At 80k miles,the other possibility is that if you have the 5speed A/T your tranny, or specifically, the valve body, is about to give up. I'd say you drain and refill the fluid and watch things unfold. If it got that bad your SES light would come on, and you can then take a more decisive step from there.
Good luck with your new car.
Good luck with your new car.