athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Well guys. As if I wasn't having enough headache dealing with my CEL, I notice I'm having clunking sounds from the front suspension. I'm lowered on GR2s and H&Rs. I replaced both front strut mounts last year twice, one when I lowered my car in June and again in November. The KYB mounts sucked so I went with NAPA. I took my car a local mechanic and he pointed out both my front lower control arm bushings were busted all the way around. I know Energy Suspension only makes these bushings for the 03 Max. However, when I looked on courtesyparts.com, I noticed the control arms for the 03 and 04+ maxima have the same part number! I'm thinking the ES bushing would then fit right? What are your thoughts? I was planning to have them ordered today so I can get them installed this weekend. It would beat ordering two new control arms.

kevinoseguera99

iTrader: (4)

just do it, i really havent heard of anyone else tryin it, but if there the same part number control arm, then the ES bushings should fit in

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I went ahead and ordered them. I should get them in a day or two and will have them on by Saturday.

CanadianMoFo

I'll be interested to find out the results of your experiment. Make sure to post them when you get a chance to install.

CM

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Yes I am looking forward to results as well. Take pics of the removal and replacement process. Im wondering if the bushings are pressed in or if the pull out of the control arms easily. Also Im curious as to how the handling feels with urethane bushings.

****EDIT****
I found this from ES website:
http://www.energysuspension.com/asse.../pdf/17419.PDF

It gives installation instructions.

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

I'm getting a bunch of clunking too. Won't be able to get it looked at until early next week. More info when you get yours looked at would be great!

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Update: Well, I got the energy suspension control arm bushings installed. They had to burn off the original ones on the control arms first. They also discovered that I had some play in the passenger side control arm bushing where ball and socket joint is, more play than the driver side. They said I could just change out the bushings for now and manage them until I got the new control arms. Two new control arms would have set me back about $500. I could get those of courtesyparts.com later for $178 a piece. I just paid $135 to have them installed that day. Anyways, the tech noted that big rear bushings went in with some tapping and grease. Normally, they would have to press them in. He was concerned about uneven wear on the tires due to the bushings not needing to be pressed in. The car road ok but that clunking noise was still there on the passenger side which leads me to believe my strut mount is bad again; roads are horrible down here in New Orleans. When I got on the highway, it handled ok, but then I noticed that on sharp turns coming off the highway, the front of the car would suddenly skate towards the opposite direction or over-correct by turning too much into the direction you're turning the wheel. It scared the heck out of me the first time it happened but I kind got used to it when I found out what boundaries to push it. Even going WOT from about 50 would cause massive torque steer that would have you gripping and fighting the steering wheel as it jerked left to right and back again. I notice these sudden movements over bumpy divisions on the highway when coming down a ramp. Initially, the techs said I didn't need an alignment, but I went ahead and got one. It's toned down a bit but the erratic steering is still there at times. The steering wheel picks up every bump in the road and twitches with each dip due to the stiffer bushings. I road tested it on a nicely paved deserted road in the bayou area around 2AM to about 120mph and it held up well although there was more vibration due to stiffer bushings; it was a straight road for the most part with some mild to moderate turns, nothing too sharp. Cornering is better but not as stable due to the steering suddenly jerking in too much or jerking opposite to the direction one turns if one corners too hard. If you drive the car normally, it isn't an issue. However, if you push it, be prepared for some erratic behavior. It feels like go-kart steering (which I like) at times which reminded me of my 95 max when I had ES bushings on it. Of note, I currently don't have my Racingline front endlinks on the car since the passenger side one had play in the ball n socket joint, causing a rattling noise. I know the Racingline endlinks are beefier and provide for better handling. The stock endlinks make steering feel loose by themselves. I hope to get the passenger side Racingline endlink replaced in the next couple of weeks. Hopefully, that will allow for better and more predictable handling. As of right now, I wouldn't recommend these for erratic behavior at times. I posted some pics of the install below.



The tech burning off the old bushings.


This next pick shows the bushing that had play in it circled in red.

xorbitman

iTrader: (1)

How do you check a lower control arm bushing anyway?

I was getting noises from my front end...see my post here regarding:Help Please: Aftermarket Strut mounts or Top Bearing Plates?
Since my rack and pinion was replaced (under warranty) due to the fact that the tie rods were loose, my car has settle a bit and is now not as noisy as it was before. I hadthe bushings replaced and almost all of the front suspension replaced. The problem was that the dealer had hired a new tech that didn't know what he was doing. When they replaced my front lowering springs due to the left one breaking (Eibach lifetime warranty), he did not mark the position when he removed and replaced the top plates therefore the car would make a noise when turning the steering while stationary. Everything was put back recently when I had them change the end-links and bushings and the front stabalize bar. They had to change the stabalize bar because the tech was too aggressive with the torch while trying to remove one of the links and he accidently melted off some of the metal bracket belonging to the stablizer bar! I got kind of fed up with the noises in the front so I took my car to a local well known garage about 5 mins from my house and had them inspect the car after the stablizer end-links were replaced and that's when they pointed out the damage to the stablize bar's bracket and also that the new tie rods were loose on the rack and pinion side. After about two weeks now since all the repairs were done (under warranty) the car is much quieter to the point where I might not even change the top bearing plates (mounts). However my research has paid off and if I do decide to change them, I will go with Moog K90655's.

I just purchased Aaron's Isothermal spacers and Via plate and will receive it next Wednesday and should have them installed by next Friday. The only engine mod left to do (for me) will be the Dyno tuning with the computer. For my last mod I'm thinking of changing my tails to the LED's however I'm a bit concerned after having read all the problems we've had with them here.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like an endlink issue to me. Change then back to your racingline and I bet your issue disappears.

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

Did you upgrade your sway bar by any chances? Nismo or SE-R bar ? That might help out as well as the racingline endlinks.

This is a good find tho about the bushing , , I might have to added this to my list after I get my car back.

BTW are your mechanics Asian ? where in NO are you ? I know a few guys in baton rouge that does work. just curious

cfr94

I had the clunking noise as well coming from the rear. I found out that my bolts had unthreaded the screw from my racingline v2 rear endlinks. I show 8 threads and when I looked at it, I was looking into the hole of the bolt. The clunking was the rear sway bar shifting back and forth against the thread (for as little space as it had) so I tightened it up and the sound went away.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I actually go to Mech Tech on Florida Blvd in Baton Rouge to get most of my maxima work done. I live in Metairie, right outside New Orleans though. I usually head to the BR on Saturdays that I'm off or during off days. Those guys are excellent! That's why I drive the 70 miles to get the stuff done.

VigilanteMax: I had a brand new pair of factory endlinks put in last October when I took of the racingline endlinks. I will put the racingline endlinks back in first. Don't need to replace anything unnecessarily.

xorbitman: To check the control arm bushings. You can see the crack in he bushing if you stand under the car when it's on a lift and facing forward. My crack was in a circular fashion all the way around the rear bushing, the largest one.

NiZMo1o1: I have the stock sway bar. I came close to getting the Nismo but ended up replacing the factory bushings instead as they were busted. I thought they were the cause of the initial rattle last year but it was the Racingline endlink that had the play in it.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I'm just going to end up ordering a pair of control arms from courtestyparts, a nismo sway bar, and put my racingline endlinks back on if I can get a hold of Taz. The car seems stable for the most part if you're gentle on turns but can still be unpredictable at times.