6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.
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check out JET performance. They make a MAF sensor adapter that might be just what you are looking for. I am thinking about getting one of them. Can get one off ebay for 140 new, or from JET 170 new.
Interesting but our issue is with the Air Fuel sensors, not the MAF. Unless I don't understand the correlction between the two. The MAF is on the intake side the AF sensors are on the exhuast side.
I didn't have to extend either of mine... just popped the engine cover and took a razor blade to the tape wrapped around the wiring harness so there was enough length for the sensors to reach. Don't forget to re-tape where you cut.
Bosch 17264 - Look around for the best price... when I bought mine recently, Amazon had it for $86... but now the cheapest I can find it for is on eBay for $115. Again, it was my front sensor that was throwing the codes. I'd check yours first to see if it's at least visibly fubar'd... So far it seems to have solved my issue with the P12xx codes. It's possible you guys may have different problems/solutions...
BOSCH OE TYPE SUPER CLASS OXYGEN SENSOR, 5-WIRE -- 15.4 in. wire length, wideband; Constructed of premium ceramic technology that incorporates Zirconium or Titania and Yttrium for superior protection against mechanical and thermal shock; Its patented catalytically activated fine particle filter prevents contamination for extended life and ensures precise voltage to the engines emission control computer, while a second filter doubles protection against exhaust gas contamination, thereby increasing sensor life; Prevents premature failure of the catalytic converter; Snug fitting OE-style silicone boots ensure proper fit, function and appearance; Rigorously tested for perfect performance while saving money in fuel costs; Direct plug-in, no cutting or splicing required.
NOTE LIFESPAN ON THESE ARE 100K Fit Note: 5 Wire, Check or Replace Interval: 100, 000 Miles.
At 87,000 mine could very well be going out. Something for all of us to consider.
not sure why the o2 sims aren't working for you guys. There are a couple of guys with 05-06 altimas that are running cattman headers + o2 sim and are running code free....maybe you are simming the wrong sensors???
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05 Altima
Place Racing Intake - SSIM - Cattman Y-Pipe - UR Pulley - Nismo Cat-Back - 18" Nismo Rims - Wilwood 4 Pot FSLs - 12.2" 2-Piece Slotted Rotors - Cattman Headers sitting in closet
not sure why the o2 sims aren't working for you guys. There are a couple of guys with 05-06 altimas that are running cattman headers + o2 sim and are running code free....maybe you are simming the wrong sensors???
Not quite sure either... and yes, we are talking about the rear sensors being sim'd... A few members are having issues with the primaries too.
The 02Sims are for the rear sensors (if I understand it correctly). The issue under discussion here are to be primarily with the front at this point. I haven't even installed my sim because I am trying to sort out A/F sensors codes. I plan on putting it in after that.
Yeah the sims are for the rear sensors. What we are trying to figure out is the cause of the codes for the front primaries some of have been throwing. I happened to solve my issue by replacing one of the sensors, but that may only be a temporary fix, and may not work for everyone else.
http://www.myhotmaxima.com/O2-Power-...ce-CHIP/17964/ check these out. I think this is probably what you are trying to obtain. I know you are putting alot of work into these simulators but in the end you just want the guarentee and the performance right? Well they seem to have this thing figured out. I would concider these if I were you.
The stock AF sensors are looking for a stock A/F ratio mix but with all the exhaust mods, the actual correct AF setting based on my dyno tune is outside of the OEM A/F setting and I am getting a code.
or
The stock AF sensors recognize the real and actual too lean or too rich condition, try to make the adjustment and cannot, therefore we get a code?
BTW I am getting one or both of my sensors replaced tonight or tomorrow night.
For all I know, it could be either, or even both. I'm actually back to throwing the P1283... at least I feel somewhat ok replacing a sensor that was definitely bad. lol
Okay I replaced my AF sensor by the radiator, tech said it didn't look particularly bad but I had 3 codes against it and you cannot tell by looking at them, it's the internals of the sensor that would fail.
I drove it all the way home, no codes, picked up the wife, she wanted the A/C on and within 5min I had a code. I don't know what it is. My tech said the next step is to put the 0/2 simulators in because those rear sensors are can trip the front. He called them the "tattle tale" of the sensors. I did get better gas mileage all the way home.
I gotta find out what code I threw but my next step is to get the 02 sim installed.
It really has to be the worst feeling in the world when you think that code is gone and it rears it's ugly head. That O2 sensor power chip that po8pimp posted is interesting, not really because of the horsepower gain, but for the following:
"The device modifies voltage signals on your oxygen sensor. ECU lets more fuel to the injectors while air-fuel mixture is modified. This can influence the mixture adjustment gaining more power, enhancing the efficiency of combustion and saving fuel."
It basically kind of flashes or modifies the ECU into accepting a higher air/fuel ratio. Am I right? If this is truly legit, it would be a cheaper alternative than changing the O2 sensors to no avail like some of you have unfortunately found out. I wonder why I've never heard of it before.
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2005 Maxima SE
Fujita CAI, Racingline Rear V2 endlinks and Front endlinks, Racingline FTSB, Unorthodox Racing UDP, H&Rs and KYB GR-2s, Magnaflow mufflers
has anyone measured what voltage the sensors are sending to the ecu on a stock maxima and what voltage is going to the ecu on a aftermarket header equipped maxima? If the modded one sends higher voltage then a resistor would fix the problem. If however the voltage is lower on a modded max then it would be a bit harder. Or is it a case where at idle the voltage is fine but goes to hell when driving?
......"The device modifies voltage signals on your oxygen sensor. ECU lets more fuel to the injectors while air-fuel mixture is modified. This can influence the mixture adjustment gaining more power, enhancing the efficiency of combustion and saving fuel."
It basically kind of flashes or modifies the ECU into accepting a higher air/fuel ratio. Am I right? If this is truly legit, it would be a cheaper alternative than changing the O2 sensors to no avail like some of you have unfortunately found out. I wonder why I've never heard of it before.
The SAFCII takes care of that. You tune the car with the SAFCII to the correct AF ratio. This may take the AF ratio outside the OEM parameters, I don't know for sure yet. One bad sensor replaced my car doesn't hesitate or sputter at take off anymore. Now I will SIM the rear O2s then finally a tune.
My tech doesn't want me to change my plug until 4k after the new dyno tune and he will look at the plugs and see if I am really running rich or lean.
The SAFCII takes care of that. You tune the car with the SAFCII to the correct AF ratio. This may take the AF ratio outside the OEM parameters, I don't know for sure yet. One bad sensor replaced my car doesn't hesitate or sputter at take off anymore. Now I will SIM the rear O2s then finally a tune.
My tech doesn't want me to change my plug until 4k after the new dyno tune and he will look at the plugs and see if I am really running rich or lean.
So by going the SAFCII route I can get rid of the CEL?
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2005 Maxima SE
Fujita CAI, Racingline Rear V2 endlinks and Front endlinks, Racingline FTSB, Unorthodox Racing UDP, H&Rs and KYB GR-2s, Magnaflow mufflers
So by going the SAFCII route I can get rid of the CEL?
LOL, no. I have SAFCII and still have the problem.
This may be why:
Our cars need more fuel with NWP Spacers, Fujita CAI, Headers, Y-pipe, Catback and it may take the AF ratio outside the OEM parameters. IE - Rich codes. We pass a lot more air than the stock system now, without addition fuel we will run too lean. But once we add more fuel to it the sensor may say we are too rich even though it is the correct amount of fuel needed because of all the modification.
If I will SIM the rear O2s then another dyno tune and see what codes come back. If it's rich codes, I may not worry about it, it we are getting lean codes that could be a problem.
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P0223 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0403 - EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
P1111 - ???
I pulled my codes, 1273 and 1284. Been searching around the web, found an interesting thread. Lots of info, hopefully I can get to the end of it and see what happened but it says I don't have permissions. I may have to join up.
Well I slapped mystock intake back on and the codes are still there plus two new ones. P1278 and P1279. Both of these deal with vacuum leaks which would be reasonable considering I was in a rush and may not have secured everything perfectly. I'm surprised how fast the car moves even with the stock intake! I really think that the O2 chip that po*pimp posted about or a Technosqaure ECU flash may be the key to getting rid of the CEL.
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2005 Maxima SE
Fujita CAI, Racingline Rear V2 endlinks and Front endlinks, Racingline FTSB, Unorthodox Racing UDP, H&Rs and KYB GR-2s, Magnaflow mufflers
Well I slapped mystock intake back on and the codes are still there plus two new ones. P1278 and P1279. Both of these deal with vacuum leaks which would be reasonable considering I was in a rush and may not have secured everything perfectly. I'm surprised how fast the car moves even with the stock intake! I really think that the O2 chip that po*pimp posted about or a Technosqaure ECU flash may be the key to getting rid of the CEL.
Hmmm... tighten that stuff up, pal! lol
Who wants to be the guinea pig for those things pop posted about?
Okay got my dyno tune today. My A/F was off. Found something interesting. The AF sensor in Bank2 which I had replaced last week was showing a correction factor of 1%. The AF sensor in Bank1 which is original to the car was correcting 18-21%. We suspect this one is bad as well and I'll be getting it replaced soon. Both of those sensors should be correcting around the 1% range.
I didn't get my 02 simulators in last night. We will get those in when I put the new AF sensor.
Also just got back from the track, car was running way slower (.5sec) the at the Tuner Mayhem (see post in track section) I've got a feeling it has something to do with the AF sensor in Bank1. I'll be glad to replace it.
I'm just stumped why some with the headers are getting codes, while others are not. Some pretty similar setups too.
Who with a 6thgen is running headers (any brand) and not getting a code??
Still no direct answers for my original post. Has anyone even installed these yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollos2
Okay so there was a Group Buy for O2 Dual output Simulators. They sold pretty quickly and I saw lots of 6th buying them up. But it stopped there.
I have a few questions 1. Did anyone install there simulators yet?
2. What were your codes before install?
3. Did it fix the problem?
4. Do we have a write up yet?
5. Did we determine that one is truly enough to do the job?
My numbers were down by 10whp from 243 to 233whp. It was much hotter this go round than my previous dyno, went straight from the street onto the dyno. Then drove around more and went to the track. Between the weather and the probable bum sensor in Bank1 = less power and slower times.
I haven't heard from them but if you check the Sim thread, Ramberg and Chern had both ordered the sims. Dues did not that I can see, I'll have to check the header thread and see what I find there.
Even if Dues, Ramberg and Chern don't have issues and Apollos2, Oolatec and Athlon Omega do that's 50% not to mention a whole bunch of Altima guys. I do think this is resolvable we just have to figure it out.
I have the two O2 sensors but don't have them installed since my culprit sensors are the primary ones. I think to get rid of the CEL, we can use that o2 chip device to send a modified signal to the ecu or have the ECU modified to accept the higher A/F ratios. My only question is that if one of us, say Apollos2, gets a certain value of the A/F ratio that his primary sensors are detecting when he gets dynoed, and have Technosqaure flash our ECUs to the higher A/F ratio so as not to set off the CEL. The Technosquare route would be the most expensive fix in my opinion but would work. I'm not sure if that O2 chip sensor could achieve those results but at about 1/4 the cost of the Technosqaure, it's worth a shot. I would have to figure out where to get it installed if I tried it.
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2005 Maxima SE
Fujita CAI, Racingline Rear V2 endlinks and Front endlinks, Racingline FTSB, Unorthodox Racing UDP, H&Rs and KYB GR-2s, Magnaflow mufflers
....or have the ECU modified to accept the higher A/F ratios.....
I think there is something to this for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by athlon omega
....My only question is that if one of us, say Apollos2, gets a certain value of the A/F ratio that his primary sensors are detecting when he gets dynoed, and have Technosqaure flash our ECUs to the higher A/F ratio so as not to set off the CEL. The Technosquare route would be the most expensive fix in my opinion but would work. I'm not sure if that O2 chip sensor could achieve those results but at about 1/4 the cost of the Technosqaure, it's worth a shot. I would have to figure out where to get it installed if I tried it.
ECU flash may come for me next year. For now I am almost 100% sure my other AF sensor is bad. I hope to get that done this week so I will have two brand new upstream precat sensors, I'll check my codes THEN I will install my 02Simulators because my tech has told me "the two rear sensors are the tattle tales" of the system. So, one step at a time.
I ended up getting my other AF sensor replaced, I was code free for about a day.
Codes returned:
P0420
P1273
P0057
I noticed they came back when I turned the car on after it had been sitting. I know I'm running a little rich compared to the stock setting. I have to because of the increased air flow. I can smell it running rich especially on start up once it warms up you can't really notice.
I just called my tech, it's time to finally installed the O2 simulators and see what happens.
Not sure the sim will fix the P1273, as that's from the primaries... I've given up on fixing the P12xx codes, and just accepted that it's the consequence of getting headers. Unless I want to fork over $500-600 for an Osiris tune (A local shop would be able to do it)... but I'll only resort to that if I still have the car when I'm due for emissions testing. We will see.
As for the other codes, good luck with everything, and keep us posted!
Okay talked to my tech today. He agrees with what you are saying. The primary codes will probably not b e fixed by O2 sims. He has been in Advanced Electric Training this week for Nissan. He was talking to the instructor about this.
He believes a reflash of the ECU is the only way this will get fixed because the ECU keeps looking for stock measurements from the AF sensors.
I planned to get a flash next spring anyway, so I guess I'll be cruising with CEL until then. In the meantime I'm going to be looking for a backup ECU for my car, so I don't have any down time when I get the flash done.
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