Shoey1

i know i know..."not another ABS thread". but we had a couple 04 max's come in the shop today for ABS issues (ABS light on dash and erratic ABS action.)

so i hook the scanner on it and pull the codes from both of them (Rear output solenoid short) so i call up the dealer since i cant find any diagnosis aids to go further ,and he tells me the "Nissan approved method" is to replace the right rear wheel speed sensor, if that doesn't fix it then the left rear. if that doesn't work then change the ABS Actuator up front. if you have to go all the way to the abs module your looking at about $3000. 1100 of that is the abs module and 250 a piece for the wheel speed sensors. the rest is labor.

just thought i would share this with you guys having ABS issues so you know what the process is all about.

-Sin-

All I needed to do was to clean the hub, both of them. I also grinded a drain channel per the TSB. Did not need to replace anything.... total cost $0......

Shoey1

good to know ill try that on both customers cars when they come back in later this week. maybe i can save them some money.

-Sin-

ouch, you mean they're driving around with ABS kicking in? Driving around for prolong periods with this problem may burn out the ABS module. I cut my fuse for the ABS module due to the fact I could not work on it soon enough and the thing was coming on every other minute for minutes on end... did not want to risk burning out that module. I don't think the module was meant to run that continously. At least from what I gathered from this forum...

Sickler

iTrader: (1)

when you say module do you mean the acuator?

-Sin-

Sure, you could all it that too. It's the part that costs $1100-$1500.

Shoey1

yeah thats what im talking about

Sickler

iTrader: (1)

right rear is pass, side rite?

Shoey1

yes it is sickler. left and right are always based on when your in the drivers seat. automotively speaking of course

Shoey1

so i did the speed sensor job today on this customers 04 max. it goes as follows

rule number 1:

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE SPEED SENSOR BOLT UNTIL INSTRUCTED IN DIRECTIONS BELOW OR IT WILL BREAK

-remove wheel

-remove caliper

-remove caliper bracket

-remove rotor

-disassemble parking brake shoes/hardware

-disassemble parking brake mechanism

-remove wheel bearing

-remove backing plate

-pop out the old plastic cap

-take a pick or small screwdriver and scrape all the corrosion out of the hole on the opposite side of the speed sensor mounting bolt(approximately a 1/4 inch deep)

-spray with penetrating oil and let sit for 5-10 minutes to soak in.
take a fine tipped punch and hammer and gently tap the backside of the senor bolt.
(Don't beat on it or you will distort the end and strip the threads on the way out) you have to use penetrating oil on the backside that was under the plate or you will break it off from all the corrosion holding it in. hence the warning at the top of the list.

-find the small hole the plastic cap was stuck in when you took it out and clean it out, use small screwdriver or pick.

-now take a small round file or die grinder and grind a notch (drain hole) into the lower right corner of the hole so the water and corrosion that built up in side before will now have a place to drain out.

- wipe down the back of the wheel bearing and clean the area you were grinding of all metal fragment and corrosion so it wont stick to the small magnet in the speed sensor after re-installation.

-re-assemble in reverse order you took it apart.

- clear ABS codes

- test drive

if the light stays out and abs performs normally, crack open your favorite beverage and celebrate with friends and/or family.

-if light comes back on rescan for codes. if you have c1110, c1126, or c112*(cant remember the other codes last number) then bend over for a 1200-1600 dollar ABS Actuator, (available only from the dealer from what i found)

when i was done the ABS lights came back on as soon as i rolled out the door for the test drive. I'm not sure if this will happen with every car so make sure you take it for a good 10 minute or so drive. if your scan tool allows you to watch "live" data from the car (like sensor readings and such) leave it hooked up while your test driving and see which sensors are reading and if they are reading properly. all the ABS related info i have found basically just says change whatever sensor is throwing codes and if it throws the codes after repair then change the ABS Actuator.

hope this helps.

maybe a sticky?

6spBaDAsS6ThGeN

so taking the fuse to the actuator out will stop the abs from trying to engage. i changed my wheels bearing today and now my abs is costanyly trying to kick on.. i tryed cleaning the sensor and no luck.. not trying to steal any1s thread just figured i should post here being im have a simillar problem.. the abs light only come on under hard cornering... and on top of that after i took a hard turn and both brake light and abs light came on the car died any thoughts? i realy dont want to bring it to the dealer so they can rape me and say it isnt convered because of my coilover or my exhaust any suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks to all

04BlackMaxx

Just got my car back for this fix (abs going off, no lights on dash). It came to $375 (without tax) in labor, all they did was a cleaning. Its almost hard to believe the car dosent do it anymore and I still cringe when im slowing to a stop fearing the dreaded sound/viberation I was so used to. I should have had this done months ago, it really ruined the driving experience.