6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.
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So as some of you have read I was having an oil burning issue and recently decided to test out a different oil from 5w30 to 10w30 to see if it helps and 0W40 if that doesn't work. Anyways had a couple days off so I decided to paint the rotors and calipers, lube the suspension, change the pads, and rotate the tires. I did this in my Garage over a two day period and decided to test out the pads and everything so I took her out of the diveway and down the road. I got about a mile and a half and the car stalled. All electronics still on, no power steering and no motor. Allmost as if I was in Neutral with the key turned to ACC position. I noticed the transmission light, SES light, 5th gear light, every other cluster light on. So I pulled over shut the car off left the hazards on and shut the radio and every accessory I didn't need on, off. Tried to restart the car wouldn't click or anything like the ignition was completely disconnected. Shut it off and tried again. Nothing. Also noticed that once I tried to restart the car the CEL and SES light were NOT on this time. So I opened the hood and disconnected the battery for about 30 seconds. Got back in and it started up with no problem. Almost as if nothing happened. Going on 3 days now with no problems. I did some research on the forums and found guys with earlier models having problems with fuel injectors and spark plugs and MAF sensors and just about everything it seems causing the same issue. I guess what I am asking is could leaving the car in an area where there is high fumes like I did for two days cause the O2 sensor to read real rich eventually stalling my engine? This is all I could think of being this is the first time I have had a stalling issue. I had this happen in my 1990 civic lx but that was a distributor problem and it never restarted even after disconnecting the battery. Could I have a bad connection with the coilpack?
No start condition may have been a loose battery terminal, which you corrected when you reconnected the battery
still dosn't explain why it stalled. the car runs on the alternators 14.5 volts (give or take a few 10th of a volt) after its running. the battery is just for startup only. the alternator runs the car after that.
could have been a computer glitch. not very common but it does happen.
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2004 SL 4 Speed
KY2 "Polished Pewter"
MODS:
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trust me when I say you don't know how correct you are. I didn't open the garage door because I am not allowed to work on cars where I live. Took a couple days to get back to normal. Knock on wood it hasn't happened again.
So the wood I knocked on must have been rotted out because it happened again. The messed up thing is it happened at the exact same spot under the same situation. Instead of the car moving this time it was stopped at the light probably 5 to 10 feet from where I was last time. I didn't realize that the car had shut off until the light turned green and I tried to press the gas. This time I was able to shut off and restart the car though. No CEL, no SES light. I decided to just go where I was headed anyway. I drove about 20 miles and parked the car at home. With the car running I opened the hood and wiggled every wire and cable and all the coil packs and got no response. Nothing happened. Car ran fine. I disassembled the intake and noticed the filter was a bit dirty so I cleaned it and let it sit to dry. Took the MAF out and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. I will be buying MAF cleaner and a new filter tomorrow. With the Filter off I ran the car and placed my hand over the intake hole and the car shut off. No shudder from the engine, just shut off. I did it twice to see if it was just a coinsidence. Shut off again. I hope the combination of the MAF being dirty and the dirty filter were the cause. I don't think my car is happy with me. Any suggestions for what I should check out are welcome. I am open to just about anything that makes sense. I could be overlooking something important.
still no ideas... damn I don't want this to happen on the highway, gotta figure it out or this will be the last straw and force me into a honda or acura. Can't have that happen, please help....
Dam thats crazy the first post you stated it wouldn't even click when you tried to restart but the dash was on this time you were able to restart and it's not throwing a code? you may need to have it towed to the dealer when it's in that state or wait to see if ses light comes on
So I didn't realize this but while my car was in my garage waiting for paint to dry I checked fluids and added Lucas to my gas. I used about 10oz to a half a tank. I didn't know how much I was putting in because I had the bigger bottle vice the small bottle. I did a search and couldn't find anything saying too much at one time was harmful but the bottle says 3oz to every 10 gal of gas. I put over 3 times the amount. Maybe I messed up by doing this? I am thinking about going and filling the tank up with some Chevron premium gas vice the stuff I get now. Try and dillute the gas a bit more. Reading online I keep finding injector problems as a possible cause and that would make sense if one of my injectors was bad because I am also burning oil. Bad injectors can cause both issues. I guess it's time to pull out the service manual and check injectors. Fun. Suggestions are still welcome. TIA
yea after it happened the first time. The second time it happened it turned over on the first try. Last night I did some tech manual reading and found it might be the IACV intake air controll valve. I will be taking it in to nissan and having them check everything to tell me nothing is wrong.
I haven't yet taken the car in to nissan but I did clean the MAF and change the airfilter. I also wrote Lucas about my situation happening right after adding too much fuel system treatment, and they wrote back saying that I should add more gas to dillute the fuel and that should correct the problem. So Maybe, just maybe that could have been a big part of the cause. I did notice when cleaning the MAF that it was pretty dirty, along with the filter. I really hope this fixed it, if not dealership is my next stop.
I use lucas in both my vehicles and overusing lucas doesn't cause what your stating. it even says it on the bottle. Now, buy the smaller bottle which is like 4-5 bucks and use that as a guide and use a bottle per tank. Thanks how I do it. ur maf might have been the issue, try using a diffrent gas station or type of gas also. and try running the tank low until you lucas it. I always use up most of the tank (less then 1/4 remains when I go get gas)
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Clean you battery connections and check you battery voltage when stopped (12V+) and while idling(13.5V+). The engine heat and vibrations are real tough on a battery.
Get a grounding kit.
The ECU has a fail safe mode. Even with many sensors disconnected (including air flow sensor), the car still start but runs rough (I tried it).
Some cams or timing sensor failure could prevent the car from starting.
Intermitent problems are hard to diagnose. Get a cheap code reader. When the engine refuse to start, read the code(s), then unplug the battery to reset.
See, all this is good information but to address a couple of your points. I checked the battery when idle and while running and got 12.6 idle and 13.8 while running. I have a grounding kit allready installed. As far as the MAF sensor, if it is not installed the car will not run. The car has to read air flow to allow compensation for fuel. When I installed my intake I forgot to plug in my MAF sensor and the car wouldn't start. I wondered what the hell I could have done just putting in the intake that would have caused it not to start and well found it disconnected. That's why when the car shut off the MAF was one of my first thoughts. I actually thought maybe the paint fumes might have had something to do with it reading rich and what not too. Either way the MAF was real dirty so I cleaned it up and replaced my filter. I will check that TSB though and see if that helps.
so I went today and did everything in the service manual to clear the P0345 code which was pretty easy. I couldn't find really anything wrong so I went to Nissan and bought a new Cam Position Sensor for Bank 2. Before I installed it I checked all the resistance values and noticed there was a bit of a difference between the new and the old one, so I just replaced and cleared the codes. Then I went for a drive and did everything I could to break the damn car into two and well so far nothing. I really hope this was the problem. I talked with the service tech prior to leaving and he said they go bad sometimes due to oil getting inside them. He said the oil ends up shorting them out. From checking the old one I didn't see any short indications but I put the new one in anyway. Piece of mind knowing that was replaced and could have been the problem is good enough for me. Part number 23731-AL61A. Cost was $102.66 out the door. They had the part in stock which means that it must be a frequently replaced part. I had to special order a couple things for this car so far and to my surprise this one was there. If you experience the same thing I did with the car shutting off for no reason do the obvious checks and then I recommend checking these sensors if you can't figure it out. They are a PITA getting off. You have to push the green clip in and pull hard to get it to come off. Sounds easy but took me saying screw it I don't care if it breaks to get it off.
TSB NTB04063
IF YOU CONFIRM: A MIL ON with DTC P0340 (CMP Sensor Bank 1) and/or P0345 (CMP Sensor Bank 2), and/or The engine is hard to start when warm, but starts OK when the engine is cold. ACTIONS: · If you only have DTC P0340, replace only Bank 1 CMP (Camshaft Position) Sensor. · If you only have DTC P0345, replace only Bank 2 CMP (Camshaft Position) sensor. · If you have both codes, replace both sensors. · For a "hard to start warm" incident, replace both sensors, even if you have no codes. See this bulletin for further detail.
this is pretty much spot on except for the climate thing. I live in hawaii temp is pretty much the same all day and night. maybe 10 degree difference at the most but 80 is about the right temp for winter time.
just wondering where this sensor is located? i think it sounds like my car may have this problem. i did not get any cel etc... my car recently started having starting issues and then one day it went into limp mode, stuck in 5th gear so i pulled battery, reconnect and it drove home fine. i figured its cam sensor so i picked one up, but for the life of me cannot figure out where it is? anyone have a snapshot or a microfiche?
thanks in advanced...
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