04BlackMaxx

I had my ABS actuator and a sensor replaced by the dealer (at their cost) in 2006 when the car had abot 35,000 miles. The system would activate almost every time I touched the brake pedal, until finally the ABS completely failed and I was looking a the BRAKE and ABS lights. The cost was around $1,400 to fix, thought that would be it and I got away with having them pay for something id never pay for out of pocket.
Now, with 94,000mi. as soon as it got cold, my ABS activates at inappropriate times and all the pinging and pulsating is making me less confident at dry stops when there is a car infront of me. Not to mention it is a mind game with the car when you wonder at what point all that racket is going to go off (sometimes it happens, sometimes it dosent), and at times the buzz stays on for a solid 30 seconds or more. Needless to say, its very annoying.
I know I am not paying to fix this, I wish there was a wire I could cut to stop it all together, but this is not just annoying, its unsafe. I will be contacting Nissan and post what results I get, which will probably be nothing. I love the look and performance of the car, but a compilation of little things and this very expensive thing reappearing will keep me off a Nissan lot next time I buy.

The problem is NHSA#10021681

Shoey1

abs sensor/s. sometime they don't get a good reading off the reluctor wheel on the bearing or CV shaft and do this kinda thing

STARR

iTrader: (1)

you still have regular brakes, unless the road is slick and your gonna slide your fine, and just pul the ABS fuse, I think

04BlackMaxx

I cant believe this problem dosent constitute a recall, just a TSB. Id pull the fuse, but I dont want to have the ABS light on, which if I try something myself you know thats going to happen. Its a shame because otherwise the car has been pretty solid up to 95k. All problems have been electronic, which of course all cost a fortune to diagnose and fix.

ILL-Maxima

Sorry to hear about your abs probs man... My ABS actually helped me out today coming home from work this afternoon. The road was iced over and i came to a stop sign intersection and when i stepped on the brake the ABS kicked in and saved my *** man. I prob would have ended up in the middle of the intersection if it wasn't for the ABS. It stopped the car directly before the crosswalk wewww!!! But then again my car only has 25k miles. crossing my fingers that nothing like that happens to my ABS.

Icons04SilverMax

I feel you mine just started doing the same thing!!!! Just when I was gonna install the 09 mirrors I recently bought.. Not to mention my double din stereo screen just F'D Up too, so I'm stuck listening to the last station I had on !!!

04BlackMaxx

The car has had problmens with the driver seat, the radio, and the ABS...and the problems with each have been recurring after being fixed by the dealer under warrenty. I guess it could be worse but its not going to stop me from not buying another nissan.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

From your threads it seems to be an 04 Maxima problem. Or does it occur in other yrs as well?

Be thankful, my 99 Volvo S80 had the abs module go out; it took 3 wks to repair and cost $2500 dollars. The only reason we didn't get rid of that car right away was because the engine and powertrain were both covered by a 200k mile warranty on them that we got from the previous owner. It covered "ANY" failure that could occur.

BigPete

iTrader: (2)

Have them check your rear hubs and all ABS sensors, the smallest amount of brake dust or rust will tweak out your ABS. I went thru hell finding that out :/

04BlackMaxx

Well there is a TSB on it, so it is a known issue with the car...it shouldnt have needed a new actuator at 35k. Its winter here but I went and got a carwash to see if it would have any effect and it did not.
Yesterday the roads were partially dry here, and when on dry pavement it was ok...but as soon as I hit some snow it started coming back, during very light normal non slide breaking. Maybe I should take it in and see if they could inspect the sensors and clean them, It would cost me $100 im sure just to have it looked at but I dont think there are any other options at this point.

someday

my 04 has the same problem...the abs or brake light doesnt come on but the actuator activates all the time...i removed the fuse but then the windows, doors, etc dont work...since the fuse is combined i snipped the parts for the abs and the brakes work fine now but the abs and brake light are on...i was going to try to replace the rear wheel sensor per the tsb and i cannot get the darn rotor off...anyone have anytips to get it off...ive backed off the parking brake all the way and pb blastered and it wont budge...im wondering if i can just take the sensor out without removing the hub and such? also, how can i check if there are any ABS codes?

BigPete

iTrader: (2)

read.

clean the sensors off.

fixed.

someday

i cant get the rotor off...do i even have to take it off?

-Sin-

It took me about 1-2 hrs to get the rotor off. It was rusted on, lots of hammer action tugging and using a propane torch.

Just an FYI, my passenger side rotor was not too bad but the driver side had a lot of rust on the sensor and in the hub. Another thing was that my rear pads were rusted in place and did not move. Once I got the sensors and hub cleaned and freed the pads, everything worked great....

someday

good to know u got them off at least...i cant hammer from behind worth a damn...what kind of hammer did you use and were you able to get at it from behind? you are talking about the rears right?

btw, do i have to worry about the abs bolts breakin?

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Use a rubber mallet.

-Sin-

Yup rubber mallet.... Funny you should ask about the bolt.... Passenger side came off easy, driver side snapped like a toothpick. Try those bolt removal tools but ended up just tapping new threads into the knuckle, 5/16-18 is what I tapped it to. Pretty easy since the knuckle is aluminum and if you know how to tap.

-Sin-

This may help too...
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...gured-out.html

Yes it was the rears, I put my foot on the wheel studs and put my hands behind the rotor where the caliper normally went and yanked hard, but this was after hitting with a mallet and heating the rotor around the studs and around (not directly in) the center bowl looking thing (center of the hub).

04BlackMaxx

Sin it sounds like you know what you are doing, if you want to come to my house and do this job for me theres a case of any beer you want plus money in it for you..anything to avoid being raped at the dealer.

-Sin-

Never would have tried it without the org. Hell, would never have even known where to start.

I hear you about the dealer, I try to do things on my own instead of taking in. If your doing it yourself shoot me a PM if you have questions. I just did this last week to both rear hubs so it's still pretty fresh in memory, I can probably walk you through some of it.

someday

i did all of the things you mentioned to get the rotor off but no cigar...i did use heat but i find that to be a waste of time usually and it makes the rotor harder to get off...ill be working on it wednesday so hopefully ill get the rear rotors off and cleaned...did you clean the fronts as well?

-Sin-

Just the rears. Heat can work, it did for me at least. A rotor is a bug chunk of metal to heat up. But the theory is sound....

lebanondon61

I guess this is a 04 max problem. I had a prob with my abs sensor going bad and eventually the actuator go as well in March of 08. The stealership also told me that my hubs were rusted and needed to be replaced. Of course they are not covered under warranty. After they had my car for 3 plus wks and 800 dollars for hubs and labor I got my car back. Now since Nov of 08 my abs light has been coming on when it is chilly outside. Went to the stealership they said I needed to bring it in when the light was on, so of course it wouldnt come on when I was off and could take it in. Well last Friday the abs came on and I was able to take to stealership and they said that the controller went bad. They are ordering another 1. I'm calling them this morning to see if it came in keep ya'll posted

someday

if your sensor and actuator went bad in march and all they changed were the hubs how did it work for 8 months??? a controller/actuator is $1350 for the part alone

Mikesima

Anyone know the part # of the actuator?

04BlackMaxx

Im in the process of closing on a mortgage for my first home, its nice the max took note that Im spending most of my money and decided to start acting up just a few months after being paid off. Im most likely waitng till spring and then if its under $400 I will have them change the sensor if the actuator isnt broken too by then.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

sucks.

-Sin-

If the actuator keep turning on then disconnect it, you lose the ABS and Traction control but the normal braking still works. I did that. Did not want to risk burning out the acturator for $1500. What you'll need to do is pull the fusible link in the engine compartment (the red one) and cut the links for the ABS and Trac control. You'll need a new fuse after that but it's only $20.

-Sin-

Note Do At Your Own Risk....

When I had problems with the actuator I pulled the fuse which resulted in shutting down the abs, and traction control system (I don't have VDC) as well as other system inside the car such as headlight control, wipers, turn signal etc. So what I did was cut the fuse.

Fuse Location



Fuse



Links
http://forums.maxima.org/members/-si...-dsc00673.html
http://forums.maxima.org/members/-si...-dsc00672.html
http://forums.maxima.org/members/-si...-dsc00674.html
http://forums.maxima.org/members/-si...-dsc00677.html

Once I did the mod on the fuse all my internal controls came back, my abs and tract control was turned off. I was getting warning lights on the abs, TSC and brakes. Normal brakes worked fine but due to the fact that the brake warning light was on one would never know if they had an actual problem with the brakes.... So again do at your own risk....

04BlackMaxx

Sin - thanks for the info, its very tempting to do...HOWEVER...I live in NY state and wouldnt pass inspection with those lights on, so Id have to end up having it fixed in the end anyway.
Dealer charged me $90 and in the work report it says to clean and 're-notch' the abs sensors in the back. It sounds liek a possible DIY but due to the labor hours they told me it would probably come to $390 more. I am going to call another Nissan dealer in my area...if anyone has shots of what it is i have to clean, Id be very happy and might go it on my own once the weather breaks...thanks.

-Sin-

If you can't get it fixed then buy another fuse ($20), when you need to go to inspection put the unmodified fuse back in. When done put the modified fuse in.

unclebugspayton

Maybe this link will help someone.:http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[47600]+\(a34&cPath=2668_2669_2760_2768

striderg3

hey Sin,

how will i know if its my actuator or just the sensors? the problem just started occurring today. at first it was just a random vibration from the abs. but now its clicking and all sorts of grinding weird sounds are coming from the front left of the car... is that the actuator?

04BlackMaxx

Unfortunately, im an exxpert on this:

Its the actuator if (my past case): Your ABS & BRAKE warning lights come on, ABS goes crazy for an inderterminate amount of time before your car loses ABS completely and you can lock the brakes up.
Its a sensor if: Your ABS continues to work, but you have the ABS and/or brake light on.
Nothing is broken but needs to be fixed (my current case): The ABS goes crazy when you drive at approximately 15MPH, but no warning lights are on at all.

Lovemycar

cheap is what you call it

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

If your light is on, it's the actuator. If you have no light on, one of the sensors is corroded. Take it in ASAP, especially if you have no light on your dash. You do not want to burn out the actuator... if you do, the repair will cost hundreds more.

unclebugspayton

its not its your sensors aor the ring thats inside the hub bearing, The ring gives a false reading.

Propa Teknique

My ABS and Brake light came on at the same time on my out of town. I took it to some hole in the wall auto shop and he said it wasnt a big problem at all, that I just had dirt on my brakes, when I get home bring it to the dealership... does this make sense??

I would think if both lights are on there is a problem....About a week ago, when I reverse and begin to turn my wheel out I get this short vibration for about 4-5 seconds then it stops and the lights come on.I dont have time to bring it to the dealership though during the week... do you guy think this is serious?

gesan007

I have the same problem. I went to the dealer about a months ago. There was a technical bulletin the dealer received to repair this. The work was done which envolved cleaning contacts ,replacing a sensor,,etc. Cost me about $700.00 . Everything seemed to be ok until the other day.
Its now doing it again!. Everytime i apply this brakes the ABS kicks in! If the dealer received a technical bulletin on this issue then that means it is happening a lot; consequently, this should be a recall! The saga continues.

gesan007

The next step would of been replacing the ABS actuator. This part alone costs $1700.00. The h__ with that. I decided to disconnect the ABS and TCS. The connector is situated along the passenger fire wall beside the air conditioning and PS reservoir. Dash lights will show abs and TCS on.
You will still have regular brakes... but no traction control or abs. I decided to live with this instead of paying $2000.00.