weird engine whine noise
12-17-2010, 10:37 PM
#321
Wow!!! I stayed up just to see if you would complete this test. And you did! Man, good work. And yes, I hear that sound too while sitting in the driver seat! Just like you do too. So, we might actually have the same problem. So, I will stay in touch with you, lol.
Oh, I failed to mentioned one other thing. So, when this noise had bothered me for 2 weeks, I took my car to discount tire for a balance and rotation. To my dismay, the rim on the driver side, just where the sound is coming from was bent!!!!! Internally! Not from the outside. So, discount tire could not balance it on their machine. Well, I rotated the tires and put a good rim from the rear. And replaced the rear rim with my spare rim. Then took the bent rim to a rim shop that fixed it back to original specs for $70. And now, discount tire could balance the rim and it was put back on my car, but in the rear.
So, I cannot explain why the rim in the front got bent. I don't remember any time I hit a pot hole bad enough to bend that rim and I could never tell when I would drive. Nor did I lose air. So, I don't know if anything in that wheel area caused my rim to bend. For I don't know how I can hurt the inside rim, while the outer area which is likely to get scratched first, instead looks perfect!
Well, I said I would check that wheel again to see if by some chance the current rim is bent for whatever reason. If it is bent, then I guess there is something in that area that is causing my rim to bend. Will a bad bearing cause something like that? Anybody got this rare occurence? Or did I really hit my rim and got it bent?
Oh, I failed to mentioned one other thing. So, when this noise had bothered me for 2 weeks, I took my car to discount tire for a balance and rotation. To my dismay, the rim on the driver side, just where the sound is coming from was bent!!!!! Internally! Not from the outside. So, discount tire could not balance it on their machine. Well, I rotated the tires and put a good rim from the rear. And replaced the rear rim with my spare rim. Then took the bent rim to a rim shop that fixed it back to original specs for $70. And now, discount tire could balance the rim and it was put back on my car, but in the rear.
So, I cannot explain why the rim in the front got bent. I don't remember any time I hit a pot hole bad enough to bend that rim and I could never tell when I would drive. Nor did I lose air. So, I don't know if anything in that wheel area caused my rim to bend. For I don't know how I can hurt the inside rim, while the outer area which is likely to get scratched first, instead looks perfect!
Well, I said I would check that wheel again to see if by some chance the current rim is bent for whatever reason. If it is bent, then I guess there is something in that area that is causing my rim to bend. Will a bad bearing cause something like that? Anybody got this rare occurence? Or did I really hit my rim and got it bent?
12-17-2010, 11:56 PM
#322
I think u drove in a undulating road which causes more rim stress. like a sudden low bumber or something like that. its not ur bearing - no way.
so i did the other video test.. one with keeping the camera in the front splash guard area ..just s few inches apart from the tire..
Lot of road noise. i heard some high pitch noise but cud not confirm whether thats what the problematic sound is or not. may be..
then i did the second test : camera tied up with the intake - near the MAF. btw I have Injen CAI. I just doubted may be its the airflow causing the tune.
So i heard something like the whine at certain speeds...its confirmed that i heard only at certain speeds and i know the sound was coming during the problematic speed as i took my foot off when i heard the sound so as to reduce some engine noise so that camera cud record it little better..
Hmm...making any sense to anyone ? I feared earlier and i completely removed my intake and re-installed again but the noise was still there..
now this video confused me more..
any idea how to confirm that its intake ? i sucks up air and as the tube is very large -its very possible to make that kind of whine when the air volume and speed reaches at certain position..
so i did the other video test.. one with keeping the camera in the front splash guard area ..just s few inches apart from the tire..
Lot of road noise. i heard some high pitch noise but cud not confirm whether thats what the problematic sound is or not. may be..
then i did the second test : camera tied up with the intake - near the MAF. btw I have Injen CAI. I just doubted may be its the airflow causing the tune.
So i heard something like the whine at certain speeds...its confirmed that i heard only at certain speeds and i know the sound was coming during the problematic speed as i took my foot off when i heard the sound so as to reduce some engine noise so that camera cud record it little better..
Hmm...making any sense to anyone ? I feared earlier and i completely removed my intake and re-installed again but the noise was still there..
now this video confused me more..
any idea how to confirm that its intake ? i sucks up air and as the tube is very large -its very possible to make that kind of whine when the air volume and speed reaches at certain position..
12-18-2010, 05:42 PM
#323
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
So here is the issue I observed in my car that sound like cycling rolling noise and also humming noise at certain speed. Yes I also have this issue from few weeks and it seems like a coincident but some of us now have similar type of issue at a time. Suddenly this noise was increased in my car more than what I thought it could within just last few days. The cyclic rolling noise while driving was more likely coming out from back side of car however it was hard call to tell. I also observed humming noise between 50 to 60 mph. It was cold here today but I was not able to wait any longer to get my hands dirty to see what’s going on.
First, I jacked-up each corner at a time to spin the wheel to observe any noise there.
Front right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Front left wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear left wheel, bearing, and brake…..not normal. I heard cyclic rubbing noise. Wheel was also hard to spin with one hand. I was like WTH? This is the wheel hub assembly I already replaced few years ago due to the same type of issue I had back then.
Unfortunately all I had was cell phone in pocket at that time to take some videos.
So here is the first video of the rear left trouble wheel I was spinning with one hand. Please ignore the noise you may hear in the beginning due to I was spinning my wheel with one hand. Look carefully for the cyclic rubbing noise from 9 to 12, 20 to 23, and 33 to 37 seconds in this video.
Wheel With Noise Video
I then took the video of the rear right wheel that was sound very normal to me.
Wheel With No Noise Video
Time to rotate wheels around to see I hear that rolling rumbling cycling noise and humming noise more from front of the car. And that’s what I did.
I then took off for quick ride. Now I can hear that cyclic rolling noise always coming more from front rather than rear of the car. This cyclic rolling noise also found to be synchronizing with speed. The humming sound was also observed between 50 to 60pmh if you can hear carefully from 7 to 12, 14 to 19, and 31 to 35 seconds in this video.
Cyclic Rolling and Humming Noise Video.
What happened was my back tires were farked. More likely back tires had uneven wear patterns that was making all kind of noise. I suspect rear left wheel may have played the role as well for this. Now they are at the front and I now can hear all noises clearly from front.
Bottom line, I need surgery at the rear left wheel to see if pads, rotor, dust shield, bearing, or something else is making rubbing noise. No big deal as I now need to remanufacture my rear left wheel, 4 new tires (already have 40k miles on them), and suspensions that I was about to upgrade (still OEM at 115k miles)...…..damn did I just say no big deal knowing I will be out for $1500 to $2000? Oh and that transmission and timing chain tensioner issues are ticking like time bomb that can blast at any given point. Oh well….I guess I still like my ride regardless.
First, I jacked-up each corner at a time to spin the wheel to observe any noise there.
Front right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Front left wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear left wheel, bearing, and brake…..not normal. I heard cyclic rubbing noise. Wheel was also hard to spin with one hand. I was like WTH? This is the wheel hub assembly I already replaced few years ago due to the same type of issue I had back then.
Unfortunately all I had was cell phone in pocket at that time to take some videos.
So here is the first video of the rear left trouble wheel I was spinning with one hand. Please ignore the noise you may hear in the beginning due to I was spinning my wheel with one hand. Look carefully for the cyclic rubbing noise from 9 to 12, 20 to 23, and 33 to 37 seconds in this video.
Wheel With Noise Video
I then took the video of the rear right wheel that was sound very normal to me.
Wheel With No Noise Video
Time to rotate wheels around to see I hear that rolling rumbling cycling noise and humming noise more from front of the car. And that’s what I did.
I then took off for quick ride. Now I can hear that cyclic rolling noise always coming more from front rather than rear of the car. This cyclic rolling noise also found to be synchronizing with speed. The humming sound was also observed between 50 to 60pmh if you can hear carefully from 7 to 12, 14 to 19, and 31 to 35 seconds in this video.
Cyclic Rolling and Humming Noise Video.
What happened was my back tires were farked. More likely back tires had uneven wear patterns that was making all kind of noise. I suspect rear left wheel may have played the role as well for this. Now they are at the front and I now can hear all noises clearly from front.
Bottom line, I need surgery at the rear left wheel to see if pads, rotor, dust shield, bearing, or something else is making rubbing noise. No big deal as I now need to remanufacture my rear left wheel, 4 new tires (already have 40k miles on them), and suspensions that I was about to upgrade (still OEM at 115k miles)...…..damn did I just say no big deal knowing I will be out for $1500 to $2000? Oh and that transmission and timing chain tensioner issues are ticking like time bomb that can blast at any given point. Oh well….I guess I still like my ride regardless.
Last edited by KevMaster; 12-18-2010 at 06:04 PM.
12-18-2010, 07:53 PM
#324
nice work btw..
most likely its ur wheel bearing..mine sounds like whine not humming..so its different.
today i re-surfaced my front rotors..it was due as i was getting some vibration while braking..also thought of troubleshooting purpose for the whine noise..wraped rotors make some weired noise too...its been raining in LA for past few days..i will go for a test ride later.
<waiting for my NGK spark plugs - PCV and Racingline grouding kit >
most likely its ur wheel bearing..mine sounds like whine not humming..so its different.
today i re-surfaced my front rotors..it was due as i was getting some vibration while braking..also thought of troubleshooting purpose for the whine noise..wraped rotors make some weired noise too...its been raining in LA for past few days..i will go for a test ride later.
<waiting for my NGK spark plugs - PCV and Racingline grouding kit >
12-18-2010, 11:02 PM
#325
Ok KevMaster, that was a great job! Man, this is great forum!!! The amount of knowledge that is shared cannot be bought! Everybody should keep up the great work! And for the greatest contributors, PLEASE, keep on doing what you do. I know we all on here appreciate it a lot.
ifti_sit, yeah, I think you are right in saying what me and you hear is different from what KevMaster is hearing. And I am with you about doing the brakes. Since I got my car new, I still have OEM brake pads and rotors. I resurfaced my rotors at 35k. Now, I am at 67k. When I get my tax return, I want to do a complete brake-job. All 4 rotors and all brake pads. I am still looking for a great recommendation from all others who have replaced all 4 at same time. I am hoping that it might solve my problem, I don't know.
This morning, I checked my oil and I was a quarter of the dipstick low. So, I topped it off. It bothered me that I had burned oil, so, I have made up my mind to stop doing the 10k oil change I have been doing so far. As from now, I would be doing 6k to 7k for my oil changes. That means now at 67k, I am due for an oil change. Will be putting Castrol Synthec with K&N filter. I am really hoping that my own noise is really nothing major. For I would hate to have to be replacing anything on such a new car.
Today, when I drove out this morning, I could hear the sound at my regular speed of 65mph and above. But this night, I did not hear the sound at all. I don't know why. And remember, if I am playing music or radio, I don't hear this sound guaranteed! But now, I have been driving my car without turning the radio or plaing any cd. Just so I could always hear if this sound is there, getting better or getting worse. It is very annoying as I am trying to figure out if I do have a problem or not. And if I do, how much would it cost me to fix? Too many questions, no good answers yet. I am still looking and hoping someone gets a good solution.
ifti_sit, yeah, I think you are right in saying what me and you hear is different from what KevMaster is hearing. And I am with you about doing the brakes. Since I got my car new, I still have OEM brake pads and rotors. I resurfaced my rotors at 35k. Now, I am at 67k. When I get my tax return, I want to do a complete brake-job. All 4 rotors and all brake pads. I am still looking for a great recommendation from all others who have replaced all 4 at same time. I am hoping that it might solve my problem, I don't know.
This morning, I checked my oil and I was a quarter of the dipstick low. So, I topped it off. It bothered me that I had burned oil, so, I have made up my mind to stop doing the 10k oil change I have been doing so far. As from now, I would be doing 6k to 7k for my oil changes. That means now at 67k, I am due for an oil change. Will be putting Castrol Synthec with K&N filter. I am really hoping that my own noise is really nothing major. For I would hate to have to be replacing anything on such a new car.
Today, when I drove out this morning, I could hear the sound at my regular speed of 65mph and above. But this night, I did not hear the sound at all. I don't know why. And remember, if I am playing music or radio, I don't hear this sound guaranteed! But now, I have been driving my car without turning the radio or plaing any cd. Just so I could always hear if this sound is there, getting better or getting worse. It is very annoying as I am trying to figure out if I do have a problem or not. And if I do, how much would it cost me to fix? Too many questions, no good answers yet. I am still looking and hoping someone gets a good solution.
12-19-2010, 12:09 AM
#326
I m in the same situation.
Every day i trying to isolate the issue.
I completely removed my subwoofer setting.AUX and all the extra electrical components that i hooked up.
Due yo heavy rains i cud not drive too fast on streets but i wet till 45-50 MPH. Dint hear hear it. this is after the brake job. my be noise of the heavy rain superceded. will try tomorrow again.
also i found the amp turn on signal was taken from one of the fuse whereas there's designated fuse for bose amp ans woofer..so i removed that too..
for the first time i observed today that when i switch on my ac, the interior lights dimmed. very little though.with key at the ON position - engine was not running.
my battery was checked last by dealer - 1month ack when i did the TCM upgrade. they dint notice any issues. and that time also i had the whine noise.
so battery is also another suspect ? or better to suspect alternator.
Every day i trying to isolate the issue.
I completely removed my subwoofer setting.AUX and all the extra electrical components that i hooked up.
Due yo heavy rains i cud not drive too fast on streets but i wet till 45-50 MPH. Dint hear hear it. this is after the brake job. my be noise of the heavy rain superceded. will try tomorrow again.
also i found the amp turn on signal was taken from one of the fuse whereas there's designated fuse for bose amp ans woofer..so i removed that too..
for the first time i observed today that when i switch on my ac, the interior lights dimmed. very little though.with key at the ON position - engine was not running.
my battery was checked last by dealer - 1month ack when i did the TCM upgrade. they dint notice any issues. and that time also i had the whine noise.
so battery is also another suspect ? or better to suspect alternator.
12-19-2010, 11:12 AM
#327
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
So here is the issue I observed in my car that sound like cycling rolling noise and also humming noise at certain speed. Yes I also have this issue from few weeks and it seems like a coincident but some of us now have similar type of issue at a time. Suddenly this noise was increased in my car more than what I thought it could within just last few days. The cyclic rolling noise while driving was more likely coming out from back side of car however it was hard call to tell. I also observed humming noise between 50 to 60 mph. It was cold here today but I was not able to wait any longer to get my hands dirty to see what’s going on.
First, I jacked-up each corner at a time to spin the wheel to observe any noise there.
Front right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Front left wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear left wheel, bearing, and brake…..not normal. I heard cyclic rubbing noise. Wheel was also hard to spin with one hand. I was like WTH? This is the wheel hub assembly I already replaced few years ago due to the same type of issue I had back then.
Unfortunately all I had was cell phone in pocket at that time to take some videos.
So here is the first video of the rear left trouble wheel I was spinning with one hand. Please ignore the noise you may hear in the beginning due to I was spinning my wheel with one hand. Look carefully for the cyclic rubbing noise from 9 to 12, 20 to 23, and 33 to 37 seconds in this video.
Wheel With Noise Video
I then took the video of the rear right wheel that was sound very normal to me.
Wheel With No Noise Video
Time to rotate wheels around to see I hear that rolling rumbling cycling noise and humming noise more from front of the car. And that’s what I did.
I then took off for quick ride. Now I can hear that cyclic rolling noise always coming more from front rather than rear of the car. This cyclic rolling noise also found to be synchronizing with speed. The humming sound was also observed between 50 to 60pmh if you can hear carefully from 7 to 12, 14 to 19, and 31 to 35 seconds in this video.
Cyclic Rolling and Humming Noise Video.
What happened was my back tires were farked. More likely back tires had uneven wear patterns that was making all kind of noise. I suspect rear left wheel may have played the role as well for this. Now they are at the front and I now can hear all noises clearly from front.
Bottom line, I need surgery at the rear left wheel to see if pads, rotor, dust shield, bearing, or something else is making rubbing noise. No big deal as I now need to remanufacture my rear left wheel, 4 new tires (already have 40k miles on them), and suspensions that I was about to upgrade (still OEM at 115k miles)...…..damn did I just say no big deal knowing I will be out for $1500 to $2000? Oh and that transmission and timing chain tensioner issues are ticking like time bomb that can blast at any given point. Oh well….I guess I still like my ride regardless.
First, I jacked-up each corner at a time to spin the wheel to observe any noise there.
Front right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Front left wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear right wheel, bearing, and brakes are all were fine.
Rear left wheel, bearing, and brake…..not normal. I heard cyclic rubbing noise. Wheel was also hard to spin with one hand. I was like WTH? This is the wheel hub assembly I already replaced few years ago due to the same type of issue I had back then.
Unfortunately all I had was cell phone in pocket at that time to take some videos.
So here is the first video of the rear left trouble wheel I was spinning with one hand. Please ignore the noise you may hear in the beginning due to I was spinning my wheel with one hand. Look carefully for the cyclic rubbing noise from 9 to 12, 20 to 23, and 33 to 37 seconds in this video.
Wheel With Noise Video
I then took the video of the rear right wheel that was sound very normal to me.
Wheel With No Noise Video
Time to rotate wheels around to see I hear that rolling rumbling cycling noise and humming noise more from front of the car. And that’s what I did.
I then took off for quick ride. Now I can hear that cyclic rolling noise always coming more from front rather than rear of the car. This cyclic rolling noise also found to be synchronizing with speed. The humming sound was also observed between 50 to 60pmh if you can hear carefully from 7 to 12, 14 to 19, and 31 to 35 seconds in this video.
Cyclic Rolling and Humming Noise Video.
What happened was my back tires were farked. More likely back tires had uneven wear patterns that was making all kind of noise. I suspect rear left wheel may have played the role as well for this. Now they are at the front and I now can hear all noises clearly from front.
Bottom line, I need surgery at the rear left wheel to see if pads, rotor, dust shield, bearing, or something else is making rubbing noise. No big deal as I now need to remanufacture my rear left wheel, 4 new tires (already have 40k miles on them), and suspensions that I was about to upgrade (still OEM at 115k miles)...…..damn did I just say no big deal knowing I will be out for $1500 to $2000? Oh and that transmission and timing chain tensioner issues are ticking like time bomb that can blast at any given point. Oh well….I guess I still like my ride regardless.
So the reason for wheel to spin little hard and also cyclic rubbing noise was inside break shoes but not the break pads or bearing or dust shield. I took apart everything there and noticed that the left break shoes was not seated right compare to the right one at the bottom. It was sticking even more out before I took few pictures. I am not sure how that could have happened.
Reseated both break shoes and wheel started spinning free as well as rubbing noise disappeared. I did not even realized how much crap and rust can build-up in there. This is my third year on these rotors so I might as well replaced them together with when I replace all tires and suspension.
12-20-2010, 06:25 PM
#329
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
Yeah my friend at least one problem is off the plate for now. I have started doing much of the minor work myself from several years. It's kind of hard to maintain this car even though I am using only for daily work drive.
Bought in 2006 for $18k
With car lons payments = 20K
Regular maintence so far (oil, tires, battery, brakes, this and that) = $3k
No modes so far except for rotors & brakes.
Total $23k to $24k so far in 4 years.
Excluding property tax + gasoline + insurance fees.
Expecting,
New tires soon = $600 to $900
Suspension = $500 to $600
If transmission = $1000 to $3700
If timing chain tensioner = $1200 to $1800
I am indeed not complaining but I am just an average guy trying to get by every year. The great thing is being part of forums like this helping me fixing many minor problems myself.
Bought in 2006 for $18k
With car lons payments = 20K
Regular maintence so far (oil, tires, battery, brakes, this and that) = $3k
No modes so far except for rotors & brakes.
Total $23k to $24k so far in 4 years.
Excluding property tax + gasoline + insurance fees.
Expecting,
New tires soon = $600 to $900
Suspension = $500 to $600
If transmission = $1000 to $3700
If timing chain tensioner = $1200 to $1800
I am indeed not complaining but I am just an average guy trying to get by every year. The great thing is being part of forums like this helping me fixing many minor problems myself.
12-21-2010, 01:50 PM
#330
Yeah my friend at least one problem is off the plate for now. I have started doing much of the minor work myself from several years. It's kind of hard to maintain this car even though I am using only for daily work drive.
Bought in 2006 for $18k
With car lons payments = 20K
Regular maintence so far (oil, tires, battery, brakes, this and that) = $3k
No modes so far except for rotors & brakes.
Total $23k to $24k so far in 4 years.
Excluding property tax + gasoline + insurance fees.
Expecting,
New tires soon = $600 to $900
Suspension = $500 to $600
If transmission = $1000 to $3700
If timing chain tensioner = $1200 to $1800
I am indeed not complaining but I am just an average guy trying to get by every year. The great thing is being part of forums like this helping me fixing many minor problems myself.
Bought in 2006 for $18k
With car lons payments = 20K
Regular maintence so far (oil, tires, battery, brakes, this and that) = $3k
No modes so far except for rotors & brakes.
Total $23k to $24k so far in 4 years.
Excluding property tax + gasoline + insurance fees.
Expecting,
New tires soon = $600 to $900
Suspension = $500 to $600
If transmission = $1000 to $3700
If timing chain tensioner = $1200 to $1800
I am indeed not complaining but I am just an average guy trying to get by every year. The great thing is being part of forums like this helping me fixing many minor problems myself.
I must agree and thankful to this forum. I had solved many problems and saved me more than 1K.
I doubt all the maintenance and repair costs are almost same with other cars too. I really liked this car - being a solid engine and HP - no other competitors are providing the same power-performance. And if you have fully loaded - u will forget others. but yes..every month I am spending lot of money for this car. and thats not really acceptable. 2004 or 2006 cars are not really old for all these repairs.
I wish I had settled down with Toyota..btw I work for Toyota.
12-22-2010, 02:14 PM
#331
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
Little more updates about the problem I am trying to vanish is this humping noise sync with speed and humming noise at 60mph and up to 70mph. I went to three different shop to diagnose this issue (two does for free and one with minor fee) to see who has to say what. I asked all three to check my bearings for humming noise but I mentioned nothing about to check my tires. With road test and car inspection on lift they all came-up with the same symptoms of worn patterns on all four tires is the reason of all noise. Out of three one also advised me to replace all suspensions because they're now very tough on car. With that it's a good relief that it's not the bearing according to three shops and my own inspection. Also I pretty much knew that my suspensions are over due. Regarding to tires, they were always rotated on time and alignment + balance were done when required. I am shy 15000 miles than what my tires offered the mileage warranty. Thread on tires are still looking very good so I am going to ignore this noise for a while to through more miles and then in summer I will replace them all. However I will be watching close over to my wheel bearings regardless of if symptoms are tires and suspension just to be on safe side.
12-22-2010, 03:29 PM
#332
Thats good..
i observed an interesting thing..when i started my car and was doing some inspection on the air intake side - i was fiddling with the breather hose that comes from the engine bay to the intake - it connects right near to the MAF.
I noticed the engine sound changes a little bit. I tighened the hose - and the noise seems to be little less. Just wondering how that could happen. I am going to replace that hose today with some autozone parts and will see the results. (Though I dont seem to be that much lucky )
i observed an interesting thing..when i started my car and was doing some inspection on the air intake side - i was fiddling with the breather hose that comes from the engine bay to the intake - it connects right near to the MAF.
I noticed the engine sound changes a little bit. I tighened the hose - and the noise seems to be little less. Just wondering how that could happen. I am going to replace that hose today with some autozone parts and will see the results. (Though I dont seem to be that much lucky )
12-22-2010, 03:43 PM
#333
I am in a process of replacing the PCV valve too..Just wondering..the PCV valve actually sits near to the throttle body right ?
12-22-2010, 05:23 PM
#334
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
Edit: If you hear noise like hissing then it very well could be air is leaking or exhaust leak. But then I am sure it will throw some codes unless I am wrong.
Last edited by KevMaster; 12-22-2010 at 05:28 PM.
12-24-2010, 07:26 AM
#336
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 67
Hi all.
I am tyring to get to 15 posts so i can create my own threads. Can't wait. For now, I want to contribute to this thread.
I had a ticking noise in my 2004 nissan maxima with 105K miles on it. Knew after research that it had to be the classical tensioner issue. I went ahead and got the parts and had a mechanic to do for me. It cost me a little under $1000 for everthing. I knew the mechanic.
However, I also ended replacing lot more parts...Here is the complete list
1) Primary chain (i know this was not in the bulletin) but there was significant slack in the chain and the mechanic suggested replacing it
2) Primary tensioner (didnt want to take a chance on this one because the chain was bad)
3) Primary guide (thought might as well replace this one)
4) Secondary chains (bulletin)
5) Secondary tensioners (bulletin)
6) O rings (bulletin)
7) Crankshaft seal (bulletin)
8) Spark plugs - might as well
9) Air Filter
10) Oil
Also we found little filters in the secondary tensioners that we could not find replacements parts for - so we ended up reusing the old ones - they are real tiny and go inside the secondary tensioners).
I will upload the pictures of the chain, tensioners when i can. Both tensioners were worn out fairly bad. One worse than the other. The one closer to firewall was worse. The chains were fine but we didnt want to risk using the old ones obviously.
We put everything back and the car started up fine. Runs a lot smoother and there is no ticking noise. It is completely gone.
However I got the Service Engine Soon light come on. Took it to autozone and i got the code P0403. EGR Volume Control Value Circuit.
Probable causes
Open or Short circuit condition
Poor electrical connection
Faulty EGR volume control value
Anyone know what could be the cause ? May be we didnt connect the hoses/electrical connection back properly ? Can the EGR be cleaned ?
I also noticed that when i try to accelerate the shifting is real hard and jerky from 1st to 2nd. It happened twice yesterday. It seem to happen ONLY when i slam on the gas and NOT when I gently accelerate in which case the shifting was fine.
However this morning it was just fine. I tried slamming as well as the gentle pushing down on the gas pedal - the shifting was fine. I hope it is somehow related to EGR issue. But I dont know that.
I apologize if I hijacked this thread just a shade but please understand that it will probably take me forever to get to 15 posts. lol.
Appreciate any feedback I can get on the EGR value issue and the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd. Thanks for your time.
I am tyring to get to 15 posts so i can create my own threads. Can't wait. For now, I want to contribute to this thread.
I had a ticking noise in my 2004 nissan maxima with 105K miles on it. Knew after research that it had to be the classical tensioner issue. I went ahead and got the parts and had a mechanic to do for me. It cost me a little under $1000 for everthing. I knew the mechanic.
However, I also ended replacing lot more parts...Here is the complete list
1) Primary chain (i know this was not in the bulletin) but there was significant slack in the chain and the mechanic suggested replacing it
2) Primary tensioner (didnt want to take a chance on this one because the chain was bad)
3) Primary guide (thought might as well replace this one)
4) Secondary chains (bulletin)
5) Secondary tensioners (bulletin)
6) O rings (bulletin)
7) Crankshaft seal (bulletin)
8) Spark plugs - might as well
9) Air Filter
10) Oil
Also we found little filters in the secondary tensioners that we could not find replacements parts for - so we ended up reusing the old ones - they are real tiny and go inside the secondary tensioners).
I will upload the pictures of the chain, tensioners when i can. Both tensioners were worn out fairly bad. One worse than the other. The one closer to firewall was worse. The chains were fine but we didnt want to risk using the old ones obviously.
We put everything back and the car started up fine. Runs a lot smoother and there is no ticking noise. It is completely gone.
However I got the Service Engine Soon light come on. Took it to autozone and i got the code P0403. EGR Volume Control Value Circuit.
Probable causes
Open or Short circuit condition
Poor electrical connection
Faulty EGR volume control value
Anyone know what could be the cause ? May be we didnt connect the hoses/electrical connection back properly ? Can the EGR be cleaned ?
I also noticed that when i try to accelerate the shifting is real hard and jerky from 1st to 2nd. It happened twice yesterday. It seem to happen ONLY when i slam on the gas and NOT when I gently accelerate in which case the shifting was fine.
However this morning it was just fine. I tried slamming as well as the gentle pushing down on the gas pedal - the shifting was fine. I hope it is somehow related to EGR issue. But I dont know that.
I apologize if I hijacked this thread just a shade but please understand that it will probably take me forever to get to 15 posts. lol.
Appreciate any feedback I can get on the EGR value issue and the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd. Thanks for your time.
Last edited by osisray; 12-24-2010 at 07:28 AM.
12-25-2010, 03:24 AM
#337
KevMaster,
What kind of noise were you getting ? to check my noise issue at 50 MPH..Yesterday I again i check the front wheel..And while i was rotating the front two wheels - it was sounding - tick tick tick..as if something has fallen inside.it was not loud not audible. not sure if this is causing my whine type noise at 50 mph. surprisingly when i drive 30-40 i dont hear any noise. may be the bearing noise is pretty low and shadowed by the road noise.
i am going to pepboys for their final lookup before i decide to buy the bearings.
Btw..there's a huge discount going on in pepboys..i bought 2 monroe sansa trac front struts which were priced at $113 each and boot kit $16 each. I bought them together in $208..thats less than or same as any online deal. Plus u get 50% off on the installation.and the normal installation charge $129 ( exluding 50% discount). They dint have the rear shocks in stock. I will order it.
Installed the Racingline ground kit. Only drove 2-3 miles- dint observe any difference as such. During cold startup - the rpm still fluctuates when I turn on headlights. ( very little fluctuation - i think thats normal during cold start ? ). does not happen after warm up.
What kind of noise were you getting ? to check my noise issue at 50 MPH..Yesterday I again i check the front wheel..And while i was rotating the front two wheels - it was sounding - tick tick tick..as if something has fallen inside.it was not loud not audible. not sure if this is causing my whine type noise at 50 mph. surprisingly when i drive 30-40 i dont hear any noise. may be the bearing noise is pretty low and shadowed by the road noise.
i am going to pepboys for their final lookup before i decide to buy the bearings.
Btw..there's a huge discount going on in pepboys..i bought 2 monroe sansa trac front struts which were priced at $113 each and boot kit $16 each. I bought them together in $208..thats less than or same as any online deal. Plus u get 50% off on the installation.and the normal installation charge $129 ( exluding 50% discount). They dint have the rear shocks in stock. I will order it.
Installed the Racingline ground kit. Only drove 2-3 miles- dint observe any difference as such. During cold startup - the rpm still fluctuates when I turn on headlights. ( very little fluctuation - i think thats normal during cold start ? ). does not happen after warm up.
12-25-2010, 06:08 AM
#338
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
KevMaster,
What kind of noise were you getting ? to check my noise issue at 50 MPH..Yesterday I again i check the front wheel..And while i was rotating the front two wheels - it was sounding - tick tick tick..as if something has fallen inside.it was not loud not audible. not sure if this is causing my whine type noise at 50 mph. surprisingly when i drive 30-40 i dont hear any noise. may be the bearing noise is pretty low and shadowed by the road noise.
i am going to pepboys for their final lookup before i decide to buy the bearings.
Btw..there's a huge discount going on in pepboys..i bought 2 monroe sansa trac front struts which were priced at $113 each and boot kit $16 each. I bought them together in $208..thats less than or same as any online deal. Plus u get 50% off on the installation.and the normal installation charge $129 ( exluding 50% discount). They dint have the rear shocks in stock. I will order it.
Installed the Racingline ground kit. Only drove 2-3 miles- dint observe any difference as such. During cold startup - the rpm still fluctuates when I turn on headlights. ( very little fluctuation - i think thats normal during cold start ? ). does not happen after warm up.
What kind of noise were you getting ? to check my noise issue at 50 MPH..Yesterday I again i check the front wheel..And while i was rotating the front two wheels - it was sounding - tick tick tick..as if something has fallen inside.it was not loud not audible. not sure if this is causing my whine type noise at 50 mph. surprisingly when i drive 30-40 i dont hear any noise. may be the bearing noise is pretty low and shadowed by the road noise.
i am going to pepboys for their final lookup before i decide to buy the bearings.
Btw..there's a huge discount going on in pepboys..i bought 2 monroe sansa trac front struts which were priced at $113 each and boot kit $16 each. I bought them together in $208..thats less than or same as any online deal. Plus u get 50% off on the installation.and the normal installation charge $129 ( exluding 50% discount). They dint have the rear shocks in stock. I will order it.
Installed the Racingline ground kit. Only drove 2-3 miles- dint observe any difference as such. During cold startup - the rpm still fluctuates when I turn on headlights. ( very little fluctuation - i think thats normal during cold start ? ). does not happen after warm up.
Now reading at your complaints about whinning noise.....if not wheel bearings (they more likely produce humming noise if not because of tires) then you really need to look at the front axels department. It could be drive shafts or center support bearing. Center support bearing known to make whinning noise at high speed. It's hard to say what else could be because there are many parts get merried between wheel and transmission.
About the struts and shocks, I went with KYBs all around. I grabbed front KYB-GR2 struts for little under $45 each and read KYB-GR2 socks for $33 each. Two monroe strut mounts for $25 each and two KYB strut boot for $10 each. In summary I grabbed everything for $225 out of pocket. Oh and I will be getting $15 back due to credit card cash back programs so total for everything will be $210 for everything.
12-27-2010, 08:40 PM
#339
jacked up again..with a good mechanic that i know..he said thats normal noise..its the axle that was making a very little click upon each rotation..when i did this last week, it was 10 PM at the night and may be thats why i heard all the little noises..he said this is very normal..i checked my axle/cv boot everything seems to be normal..no tear or worn parts..no grinding noise..boots are like new..
am surely relieved a bit now.
but the same question again..where's the noise coming from.at 50 mph..
did the racingline grounding kit and an inline noise suppressor..the audio sounds much better..no noise at all..once u incrase ur volume to 100% with AUX input - i used to have a little noise and upon touching the aux cable- lot of noise..but now..its smooth..quiet and calm even in 100% volume...
I bought different kinds of battery and alternator tester..battery is fine..aternator is producing ~ 14 V while the engine is running..no issues..
then where else the noise is coming from ? again reinstalled the air intake and plugged/cleaned the hose /TB/MAF..
I must say the noise got reduced a bit..not louder than before --but if i drive in the night with stereo off..i hear the noise..its now in my mind so whenever i reach 50..i know its going to come..
cud not remove the PCV.with my existing tool i cud not remove my FSTB..( dont know how i bolted those screws )..nissan made the wonderful design by hiding the pcv valve as far as they cud..
am surely relieved a bit now.
but the same question again..where's the noise coming from.at 50 mph..
did the racingline grounding kit and an inline noise suppressor..the audio sounds much better..no noise at all..once u incrase ur volume to 100% with AUX input - i used to have a little noise and upon touching the aux cable- lot of noise..but now..its smooth..quiet and calm even in 100% volume...
I bought different kinds of battery and alternator tester..battery is fine..aternator is producing ~ 14 V while the engine is running..no issues..
then where else the noise is coming from ? again reinstalled the air intake and plugged/cleaned the hose /TB/MAF..
I must say the noise got reduced a bit..not louder than before --but if i drive in the night with stereo off..i hear the noise..its now in my mind so whenever i reach 50..i know its going to come..
cud not remove the PCV.with my existing tool i cud not remove my FSTB..( dont know how i bolted those screws )..nissan made the wonderful design by hiding the pcv valve as far as they cud..
12-30-2010, 01:38 PM
#340
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
my 06 maxima started makes whining noise from the engine at about 68k miles but after i have read all thread i than took my car in to the dealer and they said yes is my timing chain tensioner so took 2days and they replaced the timing chain guides & secondary chain that included oil filter,gasket-oil pan,washer-dr,chain-camshaft,tensioner face,seal o ring,seal-oil cranks.that cost me $13,000. that took care of the whining noise. but i also get grining noise when accerlerated about 3k than disappear so the tech say is the exhaust bracket he than replaced a new one but when i got the car back the grining noise still there i will take it back to the dealer tomorrow if the can fix it. any information would be a help
12-30-2010, 10:19 PM
#342
my 06 maxima started makes whining noise from the engine at about 68k miles but after i have read all thread i than took my car in to the dealer and they said yes is my timing chain tensioner so took 2days and they replaced the timing chain guides & secondary chain that included oil filter,gasket-oil pan,washer-dr,chain-camshaft,tensioner face,seal o ring,seal-oil cranks.that cost me $13,000. that took care of the whining noise. but i also get grining noise when accerlerated about 3k than disappear so the tech say is the exhaust bracket he than replaced a new one but when i got the car back the grining noise still there i will take it back to the dealer tomorrow if the can fix it. any information would be a help
01-04-2011, 10:43 PM
#344
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
The whining noise that I had sounds a lot like what y'all are describing and when my car was in the dealership getting fixed the mechanic showed me what was up. On the timing chain there are plastic pieces that help the chain move along its turns but in my car they had all busted, so when I was driving the whining noise came from them and it increased with RPM etc etc. Well when I got my car back with the new belt and all the problem was fixed and the car no longer whines.
01-05-2011, 05:32 AM
#345
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 67
The whining noise that I had sounds a lot like what y'all are describing and when my car was in the dealership getting fixed the mechanic showed me what was up. On the timing chain there are plastic pieces that help the chain move along its turns but in my car they had all busted, so when I was driving the whining noise came from them and it increased with RPM etc etc. Well when I got my car back with the new belt and all the problem was fixed and the car no longer whines.
dmax, did you change the tensioners as well ? The plastic pieces you are talking about are the tensioners (secondary). When you say belt, do you mean the timing chains ? Also i strongly suggest changing the primary timing chain and the guide as well even though it is not in the bulletin. See my earlier post.
01-05-2011, 06:52 AM
#346
The whining noise that I had sounds a lot like what y'all are describing and when my car was in the dealership getting fixed the mechanic showed me what was up. On the timing chain there are plastic pieces that help the chain move along its turns but in my car they had all busted, so when I was driving the whining noise came from them and it increased with RPM etc etc. Well when I got my car back with the new belt and all the problem was fixed and the car no longer whines.
What exactly did you change? Belts or chain? Please, be specific.
How much did this repair cost you to get it fixed?
And any more info you can share?
01-05-2011, 11:09 AM
#347
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
Okay well I did not do the work Nissan did but I have the summary sheet they gave me and this is what they put...
"Customer says there is a loud whining noise when accelerating.
caused by
Found noise coming from timing chain. Found timing chain tensioners broken and plastic gone over screw---timing chain rubbing on broken tensioner."
They also replaced my cam shaft-right bank.
This is what they installed
2 Guide-Chain Tensioners
2 Tensioner Chain
2 Chain Camshaft
1 Tensioner Assy
1 Chain Guide
1 Seal O Ring
2 Gasket Rocker C
1 Threebond 1217F
and other parts related to camshaft
Also they wrote "Replaced timing chains, guides and tensioners, and other needed gaskets, replaced right bank cam shaft"
and they also replaced my idler pulley.
So that was the work done by Nissan that kept my car in the shop for 22 days but when I got it back I noticed absolutely no more whining sound coming from the engine which was nice and I felt like the car had more power.
-DMAXI
01-05-2011, 11:12 AM
#348
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
01-05-2011, 01:19 PM
#349
The whining noise that I had sounds a lot like what y'all are describing and when my car was in the dealership getting fixed the mechanic showed me what was up. On the timing chain there are plastic pieces that help the chain move along its turns but in my car they had all busted, so when I was driving the whining noise came from them and it increased with RPM etc etc. Well when I got my car back with the new belt and all the problem was fixed and the car no longer whines.
in my case the noise appears only between 45 to 50 mph - strongest while coasting between this speed range. below and above this range - no noise.
was urs the same or all the time it used to make the noise ?
I am struggling with the noise since last couple of months - tried several things mentioned in the forums ( bearing ,axle,tire etc )- went to couple of local mechanic and Nissan Dealership with no luck. no one was able to diagnose the noise.
01-05-2011, 02:44 PM
#350
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 74
in my case the noise appears only between 45 to 50 mph - strongest while coasting between this speed range. below and above this range - no noise.
was urs the same or all the time it used to make the noise ?
I am struggling with the noise since last couple of months - tried several things mentioned in the forums ( bearing ,axle,tire etc )- went to couple of local mechanic and Nissan Dealership with no luck. no one was able to diagnose the noise.
was urs the same or all the time it used to make the noise ?
I am struggling with the noise since last couple of months - tried several things mentioned in the forums ( bearing ,axle,tire etc )- went to couple of local mechanic and Nissan Dealership with no luck. no one was able to diagnose the noise.
01-05-2011, 03:00 PM
#351
good to hear that as my warranty already expired.
but again this is driving me nuts..no idea how to diagnose further..dont even know whether the noise is internally damaging something ( i mean caused from the damage and potentially impact in long run )
but again this is driving me nuts..no idea how to diagnose further..dont even know whether the noise is internally damaging something ( i mean caused from the damage and potentially impact in long run )
01-05-2011, 05:06 PM
#352
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Mechanic in Toronto Area
I've got the dreaded chain tensioner problem, I may have let it go on for too long sounds like metal on metal now (probably will need new chain)... 
Does anyone know of a good mechanic in the Toronto area that has experience fixing this?
Does anyone know of a good mechanic in the Toronto area that has experience fixing this?
01-05-2011, 05:19 PM
#353
DMAXI06, thanks a million for the great info! Wow! So, if one has to get thins thing fixed one is looking at almost $2000! I am still hoping for a miracle, lol.
ifti_sit, I am with you on your last statement: "but again this is driving me nuts..no idea how to diagnose further..dont even know whether the noise is internally damaging something ( i mean caused from the damage and potentially impact in long run )".
I really think me and you have exactly the same problem. And I am realistic to say, I know something is wrong. But just what? I don't know. Sucks!
ifti_sit, I am with you on your last statement: "but again this is driving me nuts..no idea how to diagnose further..dont even know whether the noise is internally damaging something ( i mean caused from the damage and potentially impact in long run )".
I really think me and you have exactly the same problem. And I am realistic to say, I know something is wrong. But just what? I don't know. Sucks!
01-05-2011, 05:39 PM
#354
the chain is probably ok, but it would be a good idea to change it out as well. the revised chain is a bit more gentle on the tensioners so the problem shouldn't arise again. it's been about 55k miles since i had the chain and tensioners replaced. i have zero noise/issues with the car.
01-06-2011, 01:08 AM
#356
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...cfm?siteid=722
This is a Nissan Dealer Site - you should be able to find the parts.
This is a Nissan Dealer Site - you should be able to find the parts.
01-06-2011, 01:43 AM
#357
VIDEO of the whine noise.
So finally I managed to record that noise from my mobile.
Follow the link and the noise can be heard at 24th secs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scaf2HMwx7s
Follow the link and the noise can be heard at 24th secs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scaf2HMwx7s
01-06-2011, 05:05 AM
#358
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
So finally I managed to record that noise from my mobile.
Follow the link and the noise can be heard at 24th secs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scaf2HMwx7s
Follow the link and the noise can be heard at 24th secs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scaf2HMwx7s
You drove > 60mph,
shifted to N,
and let the car to slow on it's own to hear this noise at 60mph (noise zone)
If yes then you already ruled out drivetrain & engine means your transmission, timing chain, alternator, belts, pulley are all should be good.
That means it must be somewhere at tires, bearings, axels, or may be at brakes or suspension.
Somehow your noise telling me it's from either drivetrain or somewhere from an engine department.
If possible then record the video again for driving >60mph, shift to N, and let the car slow down on it's own.
01-06-2011, 09:57 AM
#359
Not 60 mph..
Its between 50-60 mph..
If you notice the video - when I am increasing the speed and it crosses/reaches 50 mph - that noise comes..Once I cross the problem speed the noise gone. And then again when I am deaccelarating -and it reaches the problem speed - the noise is more.
What I tested earlier was I reached the speed somewhat like 65 mph..then let it deaccelerate..when the noise appears at the problem speed - I put it in N. The noise was still there.then shut off the engine--noise was still there for few moments (as the speed already got reduced ). I will upload another big video where the noise would be heard
Its between 50-60 mph..
If you notice the video - when I am increasing the speed and it crosses/reaches 50 mph - that noise comes..Once I cross the problem speed the noise gone. And then again when I am deaccelarating -and it reaches the problem speed - the noise is more.
What I tested earlier was I reached the speed somewhat like 65 mph..then let it deaccelerate..when the noise appears at the problem speed - I put it in N. The noise was still there.then shut off the engine--noise was still there for few moments (as the speed already got reduced ). I will upload another big video where the noise would be heard
01-06-2011, 12:46 PM
#360
Here's the other video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymH0I-mXK2E
listen at 35th sec and 2.00 min slot..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymH0I-mXK2E
listen at 35th sec and 2.00 min slot..