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Old 09-01-2008, 01:42 AM   #1
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"Tune Up"

Lately, my car has been idling alittle rough (a slight knocking), and my gas mileage has been relatively poor 11-14mpg all city/idling... and I've been told that I need a "tune-up," and I wanted to know, usually, what a full tune up consists of (spark plugs, filters, etc)... Also I wanted to know what performance oriented parts should I use (NGK Iridum Spark Plugs, K&N Oil Filter, etc)...
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:57 AM   #2
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How many miles on you car. The knocking is it pinging or a knocking sound.. Possiable timing chain guides are bad??
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:36 AM   #3
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how much idling do you do, a tune up is not gonna improve idle mileage, what the car mileage
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:09 AM   #4
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Car has 79,830Miles, and a brand-new transmission(5AT w/ Tiptronic), suspension(Shocks, Struts, Springs), motor mounts, and MAF sensor were all installed last January-March
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:38 PM   #5
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bump
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:16 PM   #6
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A tune-up would help idle mileage because if things aren't running properly then it might eat more gas since the computer may be compensating for something.

Is the MAF from NISSAN?

Stick with OEM plugs as many have stated that it is the best plug for our car, unless you are heavily modded.

You're coil-packs should be adequate since you don't have any CEL...yet? Coil-packs are pretty expensive, so be prepared for a hefty price.

Oil changes?

Type of gas used?

We have an internal fuel filter that is inside the tank, but I'm not sure if that ever needs replacing.

Try running some injector cleaner as well to let the injectors spit properly.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:25 PM   #7
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open up the throttle body while the car is running and spray a cleaner while you keep the revs up just enough not to stall.

you might try a spark plug that is a couple steps colder if you plan to advance the timing.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:47 PM   #8
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I need an oil change, I'm 100% on that. I only use 93 Octane Unleaded premium gas, Nissan MAF...
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-245/45ZR18 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:50 PM   #9
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Ohh and also, it isnt a "sound" it just feels rough, like... ill be in the car, and ill feel a heavy vibration thru the floor of the car, not a shimmy, or anything. Everything else runs fine, no problems 'cept the tough idle... Ohh also, if my windows are fully up, and I hold the automatic window switches as to pull them up, my tach/spedo light slightly dims, and my rpm needle moves SLIGHTLY lower, and when I release the switches, my rpm needle bounces back up to the position it was in before i started holding the switches, and the lights restore to normal brightness, could this be related?
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2004 Nissan Maxima SE
Fully Loaded
Liquid Silver / Black Leather

PERFORMANCE
-Racingline FSTB
-Fujita F5 CAI
-Rotorpro Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors
-Mezzano 18" MZ5(Black w/ Chrome Lip)
-245/45ZR18 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position
APPEARANCE
-Fully Debadged
-25% Tint
-Tinted HID Headlights
-Red Brake Calipers
-'04 Stock Maxima Grille(Black)
-'07 Stock Maxima Spoiler
-LED Taillights w/ Custom Tint
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:20 PM   #10
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I'd say spark plugs, with almost 80k on the car it might be time, they are suppose to last until 105k but with city driving or idling then slightly sooner would be better.
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OEM All-Weather Mats
15% TINT
FUJITA CAI
Stillen FSTB
Nismo Sway Bars
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RTP Cross drilled/Slotted, F&R
Hawk HPS pads
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:55 AM   #11
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I would not suggest post #7 unless all else fails.

Consider a new battery.
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:21 AM   #12
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I just did Bosch Premium Iridium plugs and they are great, with K&N filter. the mileage is about right for the timing chain tensioner problem, so listen to see if the "knock" is coming from that side of the motor. and I agree with staying away from post #7, try the plugs and battery first.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:55 PM   #13
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I would buy a really good fuel system cleaner, highest Octane gas available and open that baby up for about 30+ minutes of highway driving. If that doesn't work and based on your cars mileage, you should consider changing your plugs with a set of new NGK plugs. And I only recommend a colder plug if your running NOS, Supercharger, or Boost.

http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1431981
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax! View Post
I would not suggest post #7 unless all else fails.

Consider a new battery.
Maybe a new battery and the Active Tuning Grounding Kit, best 50 bucks I ever spent, I feel like I'm in my fathers ES350, power windows have improved and the trans seems to just be smoother overall
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OEM All-Weather Mats
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FUJITA CAI
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Nismo Sway Bars
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RTP Cross drilled/Slotted, F&R
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax! View Post
I would not suggest post #7 unless all else fails.

Consider a new battery.
why? this will clean the throttle body, egr, & intake valves all in one shot.

this method is or was used all the time in the 5.0 racing community. well it was common when i was drag racing in the early 90's.

uhm. maybe i should get more familiar with the maxima engine compartment before i make suggestions. just trying to help.

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Old 09-02-2008, 03:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmach View Post
why? this will clean the throttle body, egr, & intake valves all in one shot.

this method is or was used all the time in the 5.0 racing community. well it was common when i was drag racing in the early 90's.

uhm. maybe i should get more familiar with the maxima engine compartment before i make suggestions. just trying to help.

I don't know 5.0's, but I could only assume that there was next to no computer systems in them compared to the new generation of cars.

I honestly don't know what that method is, but it just didn't sound like shooting some sort of spray directly into the TB seems like a good idea
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Old 09-02-2008, 03:18 PM   #17
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im having a rough idle too...same as described here, changed plugs..filter..etc nothing is making it get better. tried injector cleaner..lucas...always use 93 octane fuel..nothing else. synthetic oil always. what to do??
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:52 PM   #18
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Switch the brand of gas being used, I read somewhere that you should switch brands cause the additive they use can build up inside the engine, switching brands the different additives supposedly clean out the other additives just something I read, probably why I use several brands in my car
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2006 SE Maxima, Onyx
OEM All-Weather Mats
15% TINT
FUJITA CAI
Stillen FSTB
Nismo Sway Bars
Yokohama Avid W4s
RTP Cross drilled/Slotted, F&R
Hawk HPS pads
AT Grounding Kit
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:05 PM   #19
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Thanks very much all for your suggestions, and advice... Chern, I just have one question for you, which fuel system cleaner do you recommend, and (noob question) is that the cleaner that you put into your gas tank?
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2004 Nissan Maxima SE
Fully Loaded
Liquid Silver / Black Leather

PERFORMANCE
-Racingline FSTB
-Fujita F5 CAI
-Rotorpro Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors
-Mezzano 18" MZ5(Black w/ Chrome Lip)
-245/45ZR18 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position
APPEARANCE
-Fully Debadged
-25% Tint
-Tinted HID Headlights
-Red Brake Calipers
-'04 Stock Maxima Grille(Black)
-'07 Stock Maxima Spoiler
-LED Taillights w/ Custom Tint
-Custom Black Interior
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:49 PM   #20
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dude simple. clean airfilter, buy LUCAS Tuneup in a bottle for the gas. Buy Techron gas from chevron before you put LUCAS in and if you don't allready have a grounding kit I highly recommend it. You shouldn't need to do anything else to be honest.
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhhWateva View Post
Thanks very much all for your suggestions, and advice... Chern, I just have one question for you, which fuel system cleaner do you recommend, and (noob question) is that the cleaner that you put into your gas tank?
Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner baby...
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:36 PM   #22
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Everything they said:

1)Is battery at 12.5V+ when engine is stopped?
2)Try some CRC MAF cleaner
3)I use Techron Fuel System Cleaner before long trips
4)grounding kit (made my idle smoother)

5)New NGK Iridium if all else fails because the upper intake must be removed. But, at 80K miles, you are close to the 100K recommended replacement.

I use Sunoco/Shell 93 octane
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