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Old 08-26-2008, 06:44 PM   #1
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Lowered 08 (Instructions & Pics)

  1. PRODUCT: Eibach Suspension Springs Pro Kit 6369.140 with 2.0" drop in front & 0.8" drop in rear
  2. REAR END: 20-30 minutes
  3. Tools needed: Air rachet or air gun, 18mm socket 3/4" open wrench & adjustable floor jack
  4. These instructions are bases on having a hydraulic lift
  5. Loosen lug nuts
  6. Raise car
  7. Take tires off
  8. Place adjustable floor jack just under the lower control arm to where it rests with just a little pressure to keep it inplace
  9. Remove nut & bolt
  10. Lower floor jack until completely out of the way (The spring will NOT shoot out as you lower jack)
  11. Push down on lower control arm & remove the OE spring
  12. Use the OE "lower" bushing with new Eibach spring
  13. Install new spring with lower OE bushing ensuring you line up the bottom of the spring with the 'stop' in the lower control arm.
  14. Raise arm back into place
  15. Put nut & bolt back in place
  16. Once back in place & secured, remove floor jack & proceed to other side.



  1. FRONT END: 2-3 hours depending on experience
  2. TOOLS NEEDED: Air ratchet or air gun, 17mm socket, 3/4" open wrench
  3. You have 2 bolts that hold the brake in, 1 bolt for your upper control arm, your brake hose 'clip' & 2 small rubber grommets

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Old 08-26-2008, 06:50 PM   #2
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4. Remove all of these parts (bolts, nuts, grommets, etc)



5. Then go into the engine bay & remove the 3 bolts (14mm I think) that hold your strut in place. If you have a FSTB, you'll have to remove this also. Do one side at a time!

6. Remember how your strut arm looks when you pull it out. It's best to mark each item with a straight line using a permanent marker as shown below after you remove it.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:57 PM   #3
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7. Now take it to the spring compressor & compress the spring.

8. Tighten the spring down in the compressor, unbolt the top bolt & remove everything.
9. Be sure you install the new bushing and dust cover before you compress the spring back together.

10. Line up the new springs in the coil & compress it just enough to place the bolt back on.
Before:

After:
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:02 PM   #4
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11. Before front drop: 29"

12. After front drop: 27"

13. Before rear drop: 27 5/8"

14. After rear drop: 27"
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:04 PM   #5
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BEFORE:

AFTER:
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:49 PM   #6
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Damn nice work, looks good!
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:02 PM   #7
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very nice, thanks for the write up. I'd like to drop mine as well.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:09 PM   #8
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Excellent writeup!! This is a very easy job.I think I did the whole car in less than 2 hrs.

I do have a question though.I have the same Eibachs and after I got it all put back together I have this "clunking" noise mainly from the passenger side.Have you experienced any noises? Does anyone have any idea what would cause this? I took it to a mechanic friend and he looked at it and didnt see anything wrong.I thought I was very careful taking it apart,I guess I forgot something.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:09 PM   #9
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Thanks for the compliments so far. It cost me $240.60 shipped, $18 for the use of a lift at the Auto Hobby shop on base, & $38.15 for a front alignment immediately aftewards (rear was fine).

Total of this project: $296.75
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 07Maximan View Post
Excellent writeup!! This is a very easy job.I think I did the whole car in less than 2 hrs.

I do have a question though.I have the same Eibachs and after I got it all put back together I have this "clunking" noise mainly from the passenger side. Have you experienced any noises? Does anyone have any idea what would cause this? I took it to a mechanic friend and he looked at it and didnt see anything wrong.I thought I was very careful taking it apart,I guess I forgot something.
Haven't noticed it yet, but it could be 1 of 2 things. 1) Your endlinks (aftermarket or OE) could be clicking as you turn or 2) your springs aren't 'set' in the right place (end of spring against the 'stop' of the top 'plate') I'll have to keep my ears open now. If it's not one of those things, you might have to put it up on a dyno wheel and drive it while someone listens to more accurately pinpoint the sound. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Last edited by cfr94; 08-26-2008 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:55 PM   #11
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Nice..Although how is the ride on stock struts and shocks? Isn't it easy to blow a strut by doing this?
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:26 PM   #12
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Nice..Although how is the ride on stock struts and shocks? Isn't it easy to blow a strut by doing this?
Not sure what you mean? The stock shock would still be able to recoil/rebound it just won't travel as much. As far as the strut would goes, how would this 'blow'? Anybody else lowered have any problems with just lowered springs & stock strut/shock?? Any fix?
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:29 PM   #13
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Not sure what you mean? The stock shock would still be able to recoil/rebound it just won't travel as much. As far as the strut would goes, how would this 'blow'? Anybody else lowered have any problems with just lowered springs & stock strut/shock?? Any fix?
I just heard that dropping on the stock ones is a bad idea..I'm not an expert or nothing, but just what I've been told..A few people did it, hit a pothole, and blew a strut..
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfr94 View Post
Not sure what you mean? The stock shock would still be able to recoil/rebound it just won't travel as much. As far as the strut would goes, how would this 'blow'? Anybody else lowered have any problems with just lowered springs & stock strut/shock?? Any fix?

When I did my eibach springs on my Maxi... My mechanic told me it's highly recommended to go with good quality aftermarket shocks/struts. I went to KYB GR-2's... did all the work at the same time. According to his explanation... stock shocks and struts are made to handle the pressure and weight of stock height (they're not for performance, except in sports cars i.e. 350z's, etc)... once you lower the car on stocks... it's like putting more weight on them. Not sure if it's 100% true... but even few other mechanic friends I know told me to change the shocks/struts and NOT lower it on stocks when I install my eibachs.

I guess it depends on driving habits... if you're a crazy driver... change the shocks/struts... if you're a careful driver... then stay with stocks until they blow.

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Old 08-27-2008, 06:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07Maximan View Post
Excellent writeup!! This is a very easy job.I think I did the whole car in less than 2 hrs.

I do have a question though.I have the same Eibachs and after I got it all put back together I have this "clunking" noise mainly from the passenger side.Have you experienced any noises? Does anyone have any idea what would cause this? I took it to a mechanic friend and he looked at it and didnt see anything wrong.I thought I was very careful taking it apart,I guess I forgot something.
As per other threads on this issue 99% of the time the spring was not installed correctly. There shound be a sticky on this.

I have Eibachs on my ride for over 2 years and I live in Brooklyn, NY where the streets are messed up and I have not blown a OEM strut. I have 94,000 miles on the car and do a lot of traveling.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:23 AM   #16
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As per other threads on this issue 99% of the time the spring was not installed correctly. There shound be a sticky on this.

I have Eibachs on my ride for over 2 years and I live in Brooklyn, NY where the streets are messed up and I have not blown a OEM strut. I have 94,000 miles on the car and do a lot of traveling.
Can you please shed a little more light on this please??

Before I took it to the mechanic I took it apart twice and I dont see whats going on. How can the spring be installed improperly?What am I supposed to be looking for?

The noise drives me crazy and Id love to figure this out.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:10 AM   #17
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Can you please shed a little more light on this please??

Before I took it to the mechanic I took it apart twice and I dont see whats going on. How can the spring be installed improperly?What am I supposed to be looking for?

The noise drives me crazy and Id love to figure this out.
When you get an answer please advise me. Same issue.
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:22 PM   #18
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1) Lift passenger side of car.... wheel of the ground high, maybe even higher.
2) Look at spring.
3) When spring is found, rotate the spring apprixmately half an inch away from the spring perch.
4) Lower car.

Noise gone.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:54 PM   #19
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i did all 4 corners on mine in 1.5 hours lol. (i have keys to properly equipped 5 bay shop though) i have the same eibach kit too i love it i think teh drop is perfect, not too low but still noticable. they settle a bit too when ur done. the only thig i noticed after mine that i didnt like was my sway bar bushings are groaning when i compress teh suspension alot like big dips in the road or parking lot to road transitions
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:31 PM   #20
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1) Lift passenger side of car.... wheel of the ground high, maybe even higher.
2) Look at spring.
3) When spring is found, rotate the spring apprixmately half an inch away from the spring perch.
4) Lower car.

Noise gone.

Really,its that easy??
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:00 PM   #21
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Really,its that easy??
Yes its that easy. Try it out and let us know if it worked.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:19 PM   #22
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When I did my eibach springs on my Maxi... My mechanic told me it's highly recommended to go with good quality aftermarket shocks/struts. I went to KYB GR-2's... did all the work at the same time. According to his explanation... stock shocks and struts are made to handle the pressure and weight of stock height (they're not for performance, except in sports cars i.e. 350z's, etc)... once you lower the car on stocks... it's like putting more weight on them. Not sure if it's 100% true... but even few other mechanic friends I know told me to change the shocks/struts and NOT lower it on stocks when I install my eibachs.

I guess it depends on driving habits... if you're a crazy driver... change the shocks/struts... if you're a careful driver... then stay with stocks until they blow.
Do you have a link for the KYB GR-2's. How much? I don't drive it all crazy & irradic however I do get on it occassionally and take corners. Just me, no system in the rear, more so a suttle family car with some aftermarket upgrades & some speed if I need it ya know. How will the front struts work with Racingline Performance V2 front end links?
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:36 PM   #23
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this kit with 20" rimz would fit good right? think there would be any rubbing w/ the front tires? nice write up
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Old 08-28-2008, 07:52 PM   #24
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this kit with 20" rimz would fit good right? think there would be any rubbing w/ the front tires? nice write up

20's are perfect.Just make sure you use a 35 series tire.I had some 40's on the back and they rubbed bigtime!!
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Old 09-10-2008, 07:29 PM   #25
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Just a follow up. I am going to post this here also < Thermal Phenolic Intake Spacer Kits - ELIMINATE HEAT SOAK!! - 10hp and 12ft-lb GAIN!! >

I believe the knock might be also coming from not the springs being installed wrong, but with the hood knocking against the FSTB (if installed to include the NWP LIM/UIM kit). I noticed on my hood that I am starting to rub the paint away (small areas equal on both sides) but again just food for thought.
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