Tuan615

My 04 maxima is having breaks noise too!!! When the car is sitting too long (over 2 hrs) and when I reverse it would make an annoying squeekyy noise. I took it to the Nissan dealer (Victory Nissan in Tennessee), they told me it was the rear breaks. So they replaced the rear breaks and clean the front because it was still new. To make a long story short...I still wake the neighbor up in the morning with my squeekin noise!!! Oh and if any of you live in Tennessee, DO NOT take your car to Victory Nissan or Downtown Nissan aka Hippodrome Nissan!!! They can't even spell Nissan more less fix them!!

elchinophil

Ouch,

Take it to another dealership. I went to the right dealership where a master tech found my problem and was able to resolve the problem.

sweetlou

Just to add color for people experiencing this issue.

I replaced tires and brake pads instead of buying new Maxima. Rolling down a hill at low speed one week later, a grinding noise appears when hit the brake. I let off the brake immediately and then reapplied and noise stopped.

1 week later, only at low braking speeds and applying light brake pressure did the noise occur again. I let up on brake during noise then reapply, noise stops.

Took it to my mechanic, he cleaned all pads, said it looked fine.

Drove around for another week, noise started to happen more and more. (I have 58 K miles). I noticed also that when the noise starts, I feel the brake pedal humm. I know this car well, and that never happened before. The brake pedal starts to humm like a motor is running.

After 2 weeks, every brake now experienced noise. Back to my mechanic. He scratches head but his gut feeling was "Sounds like ABS engaing. Feels like rear right". To me it seemed like the front. He was so right its scary.

He hooks up Diag machine, I hold it for him, we drive around. He hits brake with the diag computer plugged in and we get a code that the passenger rear ABS sensor is engaged everytime noise happens.

I buy a 2010, and contemplate buring the old car if it can't be fixed. No $2100 for me thank you. (I am kidding I would never burn my baby).

I leave him the car for as long as he needs, since I got a new one anyway. He orders two new abs sensors and compares the new ones to the old ones. He notices there is crap in the old ones. He cleans them well. Puts them back on the car. Drives the car around for a few more days, problem has yet to reappear.

I get him bottle of Johhnie Blue and tip his son $20.

Good luck people.

MaxFan

I thought it wouldnot happen to me. But I had the VDC_Off/Brake lights came up yesterday morning (my 04SE is near 80KMiles). It has been raining hard for a week here in CA. I have experienced no noise or ABS kicking-in issue. Everything else was normal except for those two lights. If I manually turned off the VDC-switch the Slip light would come up. So, I stopped by my favorite shop and asked them to replace my rear brake-pads and cleaning up the hubs/sensors. The reason for the pads replacement is so they only charge me as a normal brake-job (they would have to do all the same labor). So $120 later, those lights were out. Hopefully I won't see them again, soon.
It was really dirty in there, especially the right-rear hub.

dla

UPDATE:
I removed the driver front wheel and removed the wheel sensor and cleaned it. Re-assembled and went for a test drive. Same problem. So back into the garage where I then removed and cleaned the remaining 3 wheel sensors and now no more noise and no more peddle pulsation.

I think this will be an ongoing maintenance item.


I live in MN. Lots of salt and sand on the roads. I have the same noise. Clicking sound between 5 and 35mph and slight peddle pulsating when brake applied. I had the TSB performed like two years ago. I think the noise is coming from the driver’s front, but the TSB is for the passenger rear. Is it implied that the TSB be performed the same for all four wheels? Or is the passenger rear sensor "special"?

Do I just clean the driver’s front sensor since that is where the noise is coming from?

scrui

I just started having this pulsating and griding problem 3 days ago, it was driving me crazy. i took it to my mechanic and he checked it out at no cost. looks like one sensor is bad, he didn't know which one exactly but his meter stated there was a problem with one. he sugested that I take it to Nissan to have sensors changed, he said would probably cost $600 to change all four because that what Nissan charges.
I decided to disconnect the ABS all together. there's a small plug in the engine compartment that kills the abs and the problem doesn't exist anymore. I'm going to leave it disconnected until spring time where i'm going to clean them.

tomhorn

Same thing just happened to me ... ironically the same day I got my front brakes done.

Took it back to the dealership ... they replaced the right rear ABS sensor assembly and all is good. They even got Nissan to cover the repair even though I have 76k miles on my 2004 SL ...

LHOU72662

I have been experiencing same problem with ABS braking system coming on under 20 mile per hour stopping conditions for about 2 days on my 04 nissan maxima with 97,200 miles.
It was driving me crazy and scared the crap out of me when i first experienced the symptoms.
I took car to dealer yesterday. they indicated that both rear hubs had excessive corrosion causing the sensors to malfunction.
they replaced the hubs and cleaned sensors on both rear wheels of my car.
They charged me $699. (298 for parts and 401 for labor and tax.)
problem fixed!!!!!

drose

This has been very good information. I started having the same issue as mentioned several times here in the '05 SE I just bought. First few stops of the day the abs would activate unnecessarily, but no lights on the dash. I pulled the hub on the passenger back and cleaned it up along with the sensor. Problem went away for a few days and returned. I pulled just the sensor from the passenger back again and cleaned it up, and then removed the hub/sensor from rear drivers side. It was a real mess of rusty shavings and water in there. Cleaned it all up and slapped it together and now I have the 'slip' 'TCS OFF' and 'ABS' lights on permanently. Not the end result I was looking for! I'm not sure what to do now, take both hubs off again and clean them again, or do you figure I screwed one of the sensors?

drose

and another ABS module bites the dust. I parked the car within 20 miles of the three lights coming on and figured I wouldn't drive it until I figured this out. Turns out it must have already been shorted because when I got home tonight, the abs module ( I'm assuming that's what it was ) was buzzing away in the dark garage on my parked maxima I've only owned for a week. Not a good introduction to Nissans.

drose

Could someone please tell me how to test the abs sensors ( presumably with mutimeter, but what values am I looking for? ) to determine which one killed my abs module?

drose

So I took my car to the dealer and found out I need to replace my abs module ( 47660-8Y068 ). Where are people buying these from? The dealer is saying $1,800. Anyplace online to get them cheaper? thanks

MaxFan

If you read my post#84 (01/26/2010), it happened again today -9 months later. This morning I braked a little hard (got distracted) at the stop-sign. I heard a tug and then "VDC off" and "Brake" lighted up (exactly same symptom like last time and I had the rear sensors cleaned then). I pulled off the road to investigate. Everytime I turned the key to "on" position, I could hear the ABS humming (it would stop after a few seconds). My ODB-II scanner showed no codes. Except for the warning lights (and the hummings), my car behaved normally.
I gently drove to to my favourite shop and my mechanic called later and said he got a code for "low brake fluid". I was really surprised since I did checked and the fluid level was near half way between the two marks (and I guess my scanner can't read anything other than ODB_II codes). Anyway, topping off the fluid cleared the lights.
So, for those of you with such symptoms, it doesn't hurt to top off the fluid. It may take a couple of starts to clear out the codes (don't have to drive around).

KatteyesU13

I replaced only one of my rear hubs and now all my brake lights are going on. The ABS light, slip light, TCS light all of the brake lights. Is it bc I only changed one of my bearings? I didn't brake the seals or anything so that's not the problem. Could someone give me some clue as to what it is. It's making a noise as well like it's setting the braking system when I initally drive the car.

bizzurk31

Thanks for the post. The info gathered was helpful

rohanmax14

Count me in. My abs is on after I had axle put in n I took a look my abs sensor line somebody rip them off. After 2 day later I got abs on bec off somebody rip off my abs sensor line. I haven't check the code what's for but Monday I'm gonna order abs sensor for front driver side then put them on, rest abs light, n reset light. I hope it'll go off. I'm hearing some kind off clunking noise at low speed idk what's I hope not big. Plus Monday I'm gonna call Nissan about issue on abs light on. I hate this car everythings on this car is bad. I'm alway kept spending money.

slriser

I, too am having the ABS lights on problem. I did replace both rear hubs for $49.00 each from an online parts supply. Once I got them on and drove down the road, the front brakes applied by themselves @ 10-15 mph. I didn't get to any speed higher since every time it would apply the brakes. Turned the car around and parked it in the garage. I am going to remove the rear sensors and clean them (just blew compressed air on them while changing the hubs).
Big question is: How do you reset the ABS system? I have read all through these forums, and seen where you ground pin 9 on the dlc. I have a 2004 SE, and it does not have a pin on 9. My dlc has pins on 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12, 13, 14, and 16. I have the FSM and looked through the BCS chapter and could not find anything on pin configuration. I don't want to wreck the ECM or ABS module, so does anyone know the correct pins to use to grab the codes and then reset the ABS?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Same problem here. Intermittent ABS actuation under normal braking...NO lights on in cluster. I stopped by the dealership...I have the extended warranty...they will cover the cost of any ABS sensors that need to be replaced, but cleaning the rear hubs is NOT covered under warranty. They want $400 to clean the hubs. They can bite me, I'll do it myself...

How the hell can you cover the sensor, but NOT cover the reason the sensor may be bad?

Lovemycar

Thats funny these dealers are something else

Les7311

reviving this old thread.... think am a new victim.....

Les7311

Well so far, I removed all 4 wheels, unscrew the sensor bolts, and wipe them off with a moist rag. The were dingy from road build-up... .test drove, and this is the first time the symptoms didn't show (light breaking and activating the ABS).


Keep you posted on my findings over these few days.......

Kryogen

remove the sensors, clean, and make sure the ABS wheel behind the hub is clean, and not full of gunk and rust.

Les7311

Kryogen / All:
RESOLVED!!!!????


drove over 120 miles in 24 hours, parking car at least 4 times for several hours, and this is the first time no dreaded pulsating-symptoms #knockONwood# (symptomatic for over a week everyday).


Was unable to remove the hub after much banging ...prob spray some brake cleaner next time behind hub when I rotate tires.


I think folks should try this before visiting their mechanics.......


Report back in a few more days.

Albert

After 165k miles on my 2006, I also have this issue. I didn't get any ABS lights or any codes. I brought it to my local shop and directly had them change both rear hubs and clean the sensor. The problem was still there. The mechanic then asked me to bring it to the dealer. I refused to get rape and just had the fuse cut next to the battery. Problem gone. Just the ABS, slip, and traction control lights are all on constantly now.

Someone mentioned that there is another way to disable the ABS by unplugging something by the firewall? Can someone please show me a picture and a description where. If I do that, will the lights now go off?

clive

There is a place that repairs Bosch ABS control units for $100 a bit cheaper than getting a new one... http://www.cheapabs.com/contact.html

Les7311

Albert: that was a tough call to cut wires and throw a code. In Maryland, Emission Stations wont take a car with any visible check engine lights - hope not the same in your area.


Don't know what your mechanic did, but why didnt you try cleaning yourself?


My-Process: Remove wheels, use 14mm socket, unscrew sensor bolts from hub, clean sensors thoroughly with electric cleaner/wet cloth, (try) clean inside cavity where sensor sits, reverse process, test drive.


The TSB identified the RR sensor as the problem.......go online and order a new sensor vs dealer.


Am 2 days after cleaning sensors (only) and no pulse...... gl

rippen21

5 days ago I heard the ABS cycle during light braking. It was raining, and my tires are on the edge of needing replacement, so I didn't worry about it too much. The next day, when it was dry, I got the same thing to occur when pulling off the interstate.
Came here, did some reading, had a plan. I removed both rear hub assemblies, cleaned the sensors (which didn't look that bad as far as debris and rust) and installed two new rear hubs.
Before I left my garage, I put my scan tool on it: no codes. No lights, no sign of anything wrong. Figured I caught early, before the system really knew something was wrong.
Pull out, and start heading to work. Look down, and all 3 lights (slip, TCS off, and ABS) are all on.
Plan to see what code is set when I get back home, but hoping it can tell me which sensor is bad, and get it on order. I didn't spray brake clean or chemicals on the sensors; they weren't that dirty. I used a clean shop rag to make sure there wasn't a bunch of gunk on it and that was it. Should I have done more to them?
Pretty sure I am going to pull the ABS fuse, becuase if the actuator starts cycling a blows now, I will be really upset.
Only upside was that I found a wheel hub assembly at Autozone for $42, as part of some close-out. Next cheapest option was $69. Both had a 1 year warranty. Its a 45 min job to replace, if I need to do it again to save a few bucks, so be it. Bearings weren't too bad, but the new ones do spin smoother and a little easier than the orginals.
06 SL Auto, 81K

rippen21

I decided to run to the bank at lunch. Start the car, no warning lights. Drive about 500 feet, get out of parking lot, and accelerate and it starts to surge and the "slip" light comes on. Any touch of the brakes over 15 mph turns on the ABS pump.
Can I remove the fuse to drive it without ABS, or will I still have traction control issues that will stop me from going over 40?
Any knowledge is appreicated.

Les7311

Well, am back at this dreaded issue again, and its below freezing. WIll have to remove the sensors (only) again and clean them. Keep you posted.

Les7311

Before anyone decides to replace bearings and / or sensors due to a ABS and Brake light on dash, start with inspecting both rear hubs. Sight wont allow pics for me, but imagine a dirty rusted engine bay...... that was the ring inside the wheel bearings.


The surgery is not hard to perform, I do suggest once the rotors are removed, re-install tire and give it a good kick to displace the hub (better than banging).


NOW: no more pulsing at the foot-brake, however I I have only the "ABS" light on the dash.

Found this link, but don't know how to reset.


http://pinoutdiagram.com/nissan-obd-...erface-pinout/


https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...abs-check.html post 3


How do I reset this ABS light? My OBD doesn't have any codes, nor cannot reset.


HELP!!