6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.
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well i talked to rotorpros yesterday and he told me 300 for dirlled and slotted rotors and performance pads. Is that a good deal and how hard is it to install your self. Do you have to bleed the brakes or what.
well i talked to rotorpros yesterday and he told me 300 for dirlled and slotted rotors and performance pads. Is that a good deal and how hard is it to install your self. Do you have to bleed the brakes or what.
Good deal.
Not hard to install yourself, but it might be hard for you to loosen the bolts that hold on the calipers with hand tools. That was hard for me.
No need to bleed the brakes, but this is an excellent time to do a brake flush and upgrade your fluid, if not to buy the SS lines and have them installed as well.
He did not tell me what kind of pads, but do you think you can give me a quick install write up or some pointers.
Thanks
Not very hard at all.
Jack up the car, take off the wheels, take off bolts holding caliper on, take off pads, use clamp to back up the hydraulic press, new pads on, take off rotor, slap new one on, replace caliper, tighten bolts, put on the wheel.
I would suggest also this is a good time to paint the calipers...
Just did mine. First off $300 for everything is ballpark. I paid $200 for the rotors which I got off ebay and rougly $70 for geniune Nissan pads. As for the job itself it went smooth. One good word of advice is to use a torque wrench to break the bolts that hold the caliper brackets on. I did that first and it made everything go well. Then remove the caliper bolts. I bought a big sryinge to take some brake fluid out of the master when I was pushing the pistons back into the caliper. If you don't the brake fliud will come out the top. Clean all the backing plates and new rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner. Spray the back of the pads and plates with disc brake quiet and you will be fine.
C clamp. When you take the pads off, the part of the caliper that compresses the pad onto the rotor will move all of the way out. You use a C clamp to compress it back into position so you can put the caliper back on the rotor.
Dont use a torque wrench to unbolt, use a breaker bar, or you will screw your torque wrench.
Yep lolol Though I use my tourqe wrench cause it's wasted already. That's craftsman for you.
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now how would i put the new pads in with the c clamp there and how do you put them on the rotors?
You use the clamp to push the piston back in the caliper not to put on the pads. Once the new rotor is in place and the bracket is secured you place the pads on, the ends of the pads have tabs that slip right in. Then put the caliper on.
allright thanks i looked more on line and now confident in doing my brakes. i will post pics of the process when started.
Hardest part will be getting those bolts holding the caliper off. I abandoned the project last time because I couldn't get ONE bolt off. I need a bigger man or a break bar...
Hardest part will be getting those bolts holding the caliper off. I abandoned the project last time because I couldn't get ONE bolt off. I need a bigger man or a break bar...
You sure you didn't mean the bolts holding the bracket on? The caliper bolts were easy when I did it. It was the two bigger ones that required a little patience but they finally broke and came off.
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so should i spray them with something first.
I don't think that helps. I didn't and besides I wouldn't want to spray anything near that boot that keeps dust and stuff away from the floating caliper bolt.
You sure you didn't mean the bolts holding the bracket on? The caliper bolts were easy when I did it. It was the two bigger ones that required a little patience but they finally broke and came off.
I don't think that helps. I didn't and besides I wouldn't want to spray anything near that boot that keeps dust and stuff away from the floating caliper bolt.
Holding the bracket on...hmm...I only recall the two bigger bolts holding the caliper on...didn't know there were two more on top of that. But yes, I meant the bigger bolts. Did you just use a ratchet or did you use a break bar? Mine were quite rusted.
hey quick question do you think its safe if i just get a set of front rotors and pads because i get stearing wheel shimmying when i break it can be intermittent some times but i figure i need new pads and rotors in the front.
I think you should. I just had the same deal going on with the shimmy (really bad when I would start to brake at speeds over 50 mph) I took it to the dealership this weekend and they re-surfaced both my front rotors. It solved the problem of the shimmy when braking but I am still going to replace my pads/rotors with some good after market products. Just choosing the right pads/rotors is my delimma
History: OEM rotors warped @19Kmiles. Replaced with drilled/slotted rotos, warped big time after 2Kmiles. Put the OEMs back and started to warp after another 32Kmiles.
Today I checked the OEM rotors and found vertical hairline cracked in a few places, both front and back - all rotors. I'm a normal driver, so I suggest you to take a look at your OEM rotors.
Time for me to shop for some rotors/pads.
No bleeding in necessary. but you will have to get a import tool for the rear cailapers. the fronts can be compressed with some force. BUT BLEEDING IS ALWAYS GOOD.. just to get some of the old fulid out that tends to heat up and get dirty. just always top off the resvour. or you will get air in the lines..
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JET,INJEN -K&N,JIC STAGE 2,ZENNITE 19'S,BREMBO CROSS AND SLOTTED,STILLEN FRONT AND REAR STB,PIONEER NAV AND DVD REAR LCD'S,GREDDY CAT BACK,HIGH FLOW CAT,JL 10'S,JWT CAMS,STILLEN REAR SWAY BAR,BERMBO ROTORS, EBC GREENSTUFF PADS. ENERGY SUSPENSION MOTOR MOUNTS, SHIFT KIT BUSHINGS, CONTROLL ARM BUSHINS, SWAY BAR BUSHINGS.
Some other simple pointers are to consider a different brake fluid such as ATE's Super Blue. It's superior to stock fluids in characteristics and its blue color lets you easily tell when you've finished draining the old fluid out.
Brake fluid should be flushed regularly. In its pure form, brake fluid has a high boiling point but once introduced into a brake system, impurities and moisture (water) mixed into it and lowers the boiling point giving you the sensation of spongy brakes. Don't just bleed, flush!
If you are going to paint your calipers, DO NOT spill brake fluid on them. That stuff eats away paint!
On completion, remember to bed your new pads to your rotors!
right on S_Klass, when I put my new setup on I will replace the OEM fluid, BMW recommends replacing the brake fluid every 2 years cause of the moisture it absorbs
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2009 SV Sport&Tech, Dark Slate
2006 SE Maxima, Onyx (traded)
This might be off subject but I got my brakes changed and rotors resurfaced @ Firestone... they charged me 300... seems like a good deal right?? But they told me I need to change both my fanbelts for power steering and a/c because they were cracked and that is would cost me 200.... I'm not paying 200 bucks to do that... any recommended places to get that done for cheaper? Also what kind of fanbelts do our cars use?? I have 04 and I found two on Ebay but they were Serpentine and I dont know if that was good.... Part #'s are: 1/ Alt & A/C drive belt # 430K6
1/ Power Steer belt # 305K4
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.::Everything Good & Accomplished In the World Takes Work... Everything Else is JIVE::.
This might be off subject but I got my brakes changed and rotors resurfaced @ Firestone... they charged me 300... seems like a good deal right?? But they told me I need to change both my fanbelts for power steering and a/c because they were cracked and that is would cost me 200.... I'm not paying 200 bucks to do that... any recommended places to get that done for cheaper? Also what kind of fanbelts do our cars use?? I have 04 and I found two on Ebay but they were Serpentine and I dont know if that was good....
Part #'s are:
1/ Alt & A/C drive belt # 430K6
1/ Power Steer belt # 305K4
I Kinda answered my own question just now... I referred to the work order and it shows they are the same with the exception of the poly rib belt... the one they recommend is part # 420K6 (poly rib belt) and the one on Ebay is part # 430K6 (poly rib belt)... that doesnt really matter does it?
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.::Everything Good & Accomplished In the World Takes Work... Everything Else is JIVE::.
Guys I am replacing my rotors and pads on saturday
Could someone tell me the torque spec for the main bolts.
Also how tight do i need to do the caliper bridge in the back there.
Get ready to put everything you've got into getting caliper bolts off. I think I strained my neck getting mine off with a cheaper bar. BIG NOTE: Turn the steering wheel to assist each side.
Get ready to put everything you've got into getting caliper bolts off. I think I strained my neck getting mine off with a cheaper bar. BIG NOTE: Turn the steering wheel to assist each side.
Did you have an air wrench? I do. I am wondering if it's that hard with an air wrench?
And good point about turning the wheel.
Since i don't have a hoist, I am a bit worried about having access in the back to take caliper bridge off...I mean enough space even for the small air wrench gun.
Guys, DO NOT TAKE THE CAR TO FIRESTONE/GOODYEAR/MIDAS for brakes. This member said he paid $300 for pads and having the rotors RESURFACED. I'm sure you did not get a high quality pad. You could have had BRAND NEW QUALITY pads AND NEW ROTORS for that $300. If you don't have the know-how to change the brakes, hit up a member here...there's got to be somebody fairly close to you that will lend a hand. I can go to my local Autozone and get decent pads and brand new rotors for $100 in parts. I would never pay anything more than that unless I'm getting brand new rotors. I hate to see people getting ripped off for simple car repairs.
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Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT
Morel Dotech Ovation 6/Arc KS300.4 bridged
Arc FD6025/Arc KS125.2Mini
2 Hertz EBX200R 8" subs/ARC KS300.4 bridged
Dynamat in front doors/rear deck/trunk lid
Full LED interior conversion, switchbacks, taillights
Linear Mode
