AllBlackMax

I'm afraid I might have a major problem on my hands. I took my 04' Maxima to Jotech Motorsports to have my V-AFC II installed and tuned Wednesday 8/23. That didn't go well so they went with the S-AFC II. Still problems. They're telling me now even with the car wired back to normal it will not idle, sounds like it's running rough, less than 6 cylinders are firing, running rich, etc. No SES light!

They REPLACED the ECU(shipped from a dealership in Houston), coilpack, and sparkplugs. Same problem. At this point I'm beginning to think they serious damaged my engine.

It's been 5 days and I'm worried about my ride.

Any suggestions on what actions to take a this point? Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

RHMax

It sounds like what happened to me when the ECU went into protection mode when TS dialed my timing up too far, but the ECU did throw code with SES. I don't think your engine is damaged, but some sensors might have been blown. Still, it should throw some codes.

Any Nissan specialist near you, or is Jotech it?

AllBlackMax

Jotech is a tuner shop. They work with alot of 350Zs but not Maximas. I'm thinking they should get it towed to a Nissan dealership like Courtesy Nissan and get it diagnosed.

Glude

iTrader: (5)

Are they paying for all this since they caused the problem in the first place?

AllBlackMax

They better be! I ain't payin for shhh@! but what I originally asked for, AFC install and tune.

I'm at the point to tell them just get my car back to stock ECU, make sure the SES light from the headers is fixed, give me my V-AFC II back, and chalk this one up as a wash.

TAZ

iTrader: (20)

The "V-afc" is for V-TECH honda equipped cars. And the S-afc for every other normal car. If the put on a V-afc, they might have screwed up something for sure.

AllBlackMax

I hope you don't get flamed for this one. There are plenty of folks running the V-AFC II in their Maximas.

Pneumatic

Is that place over off of Kingsley Rd in Garland? I pass there just about every day so if you need some backup let me know.

maximob

i wonder if the electronic throttle was damaged? i'm no expert, but if they replaced the ecu and ignition, i would think the throttle may be having trouble interpretting the idle signals.

TAZ

iTrader: (20)

Just quoting the apexi site.

"the VAFC now allows for 12 point fuel manipulation in 100 RPM increments. The VAFC II also allows for the VTEC engagement point to be manipulated from 3000-7000 RPM, including the new i-VTEC systems."

But I know as a "general rule" the vafc was made for hondas, while the safc is the standard for non v tech cars. The vafc is basically an AFC + v tech controller in one unit

AllBlackMax

Could be,
I'm looking at the Service and Repair manual in .PDF format right now. One section of interest is the Malfunction Indicator Lamp under On Board Diagnostic System(ODB). I wonder if they're actually performing these steps as outlined. doubt it.

AllBlackMax

That's the place. They haven't gone crazy on me yet. But I might.

MAXDOUT04

Just a shot but have they tried a new mass air sensor? if its not idling that sounds like the prob

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'll be gentle.

This site > apexi.

I think you meant VTEC...

Worth a try.

AllBlackMax

From what I read if the MAF goes the car won't rev past 2500 rpms. It's still somewhat driveable.

AllBlackMax

I'm thinking it's one of the sensors also. Must be a 1000 sensors under that hood.

Maybe throttle position sensor.

PSYCHOMAX

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like it could be a bad sensor. When the mass air flow sensor went on my last car, it had similar symptoms: it would idle rough for a few seconds before stalling. When I gave it gas, it would rev up slowly and sound like it was a few cylinders short. The replacement was bad too and wouldn't rev beyond 2200 RPM (it almost cost me big $$$$ in the form of a new ecu, new ignition, further replacement parts, and ultimately my car - if it wasn't for my insistence on trying another MAFS.). Oh yah, I never got the SES light either. I wish you luck.

AllBlackMax

So it sounds like when they wired up the V-AFC II it sent improper voltage to the MAFS and caused it to malfunction. Good possibility.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

AFC's alter voltage sent from the MAF to the ECU.

If this was the problem, than it should be ok when you dc'd the VAFC.


Test your MAF V using the procedure found in that document.

xorbitman

iTrader: (1)

I just bought the APEXi NEO: I am very interested in the final solution. Good luck and keep us posted. Chern, Deus & Ramberg: Can you help on this one?

AllBlackMax

Oh I will definitely keep everyone posted. I would hate for someone else to go through this. Moreover, I'm hoping Jotech is taking notes as to prevent this from happening again.

I think some good will come out of this though. I guess the shop is gaining experience on my time.

AllBlackMax

I expect you won't have the same problems with the NEO however. I really think they wired something incorrectly when they installed the V-AFC that caused the problem.

I wonder if these shops even read the instructions when they work. The instructions were pretty specific on wiring the ground wires.

AllBlackMax

You're not going to believe what they told me the problem was. Heck, I barely believe it!

Kenny himself, owner of Jotech and the person who worked on my car, said when they went to re-connect the harness back to the ECU that one of the pins got pushed back and didn't make good contact with the ECU. He said he discovered that about a day ago.

On top of that, while testing the continuity of the wires to the ECU they must of damaged(enlarged) one of the holes on the ECU. To fix the problem they re-wired the bad connection and the car ran normal(according to them).

He told me for the past 3 days he checked every sensor possible and that every suggestion I sent him from the Service manual he already tried. LOL!

The S-AFC II is connected and there are no problems thus far. The AFC will be dyno tuned this afternoon. I will let everyone know after I drive the car. I will also get post dyno results. Thanks for everyone's input. If anything you guys made it easier to deal with a stressful situation.

The O2 sensor problem related to the header is also resolved.

toddjun

Incidentally, how can the TCU for 2004 Max be reset or initialized?

Glude

iTrader: (5)

So can someone give me a good reason why all the 6th gen people are buying the NEO? This is the only forum that I continually see people posting that they got the NEO and im just wondering why? Congrats on getting things straightened out. I told u not to go to them, now u see why. Jotech=Blowtech.

AllBlackMax

How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results). Refer to EC-68, "How to Set Diagnostic Test
Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)" .
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
The emission-related diagnostic information has been erased from the backup memory in the ECM.
3. Fully release the accelerator pedal, and confirm the DTC 0000 is displayed.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

True to a certain degree, but like already posted, it doesn't matter. They work fine on VQs. IIRC, some of the 4th Gen guys are even using the VTEC rpm switch to activate their 00VIs.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

,

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Glad you got it figured out. Be sure you get a copy of the runfiles on a floppy or flashdrive, that way others here can provide you with more insight.