The real way to install a UDP
07-16-2006, 10:00 PM
#1
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The real way to install a UDP
I have looked for a thorough write up for installing an underdrive pulley (UDP) but I didn't find one. I just installed mine, finally, after a year of it sitting in a box. So here is my write up:
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right. Loosen lugnuts of passenger side wheel and jack up the car and put a jack stand under the frame.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove splash shield.
4. Open the hood. If you look down in between the engine and engine compartment, you will see a brass colored nut. Loosen this and you loosen the tensioner which relaeses the tension on the AC belt.
5. The next two steps are a bit tricky. The first is removing the power steering belt. Reach waaaaay back and up behind the power steering pump and you will feel a larger 14mm head bolt. Loosen it (since its facing you, the wrench will go clockwise) a couple of turns. Now look under at the power steering pump and you will see another brass colored bolt bolted into a piece of brass colored metal that has a bolt going towards engine. Loosen bolt going toward engine and then tighten lower bolt until belt is loose.
6. Now here is a neat trick Kamski taught me to remove crank bolt. Take a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 19mm socket. Make sure its a hardened socket. Wedge the ratchet so its against the control arm. Now, get in the car and bump the starter. It took 3 bumps for me and off it came.
******TO CLEAR UP THE CONTROVERSIAL ISSUE OF DIRECTION OF THE BOLT, THE CRANK BOLT HAS NORMAL THREADS, DO YOU ALL UNDERSTAND ME??? NORMAL THREADS!!!!!!! NOT REVERSE THREADS. THE BELTS SPIN CLOCKWISE AS YOU FACE THE ENGINE FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE. SO, THE BOLT IS UNDONE COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.********
7. My pulley slid off with no problems.
8. The new lightweight pulley slides on with a bit of copper anti-sieze spread around the inside surface where it slides on the crank.
9. I used the OEM power steering belt. But I did use the belt recommended for the AC and alternator.
10. Loosen the bolt to tighten power steering until belt is firm. The tighten the engine-facing bolt. Then tighten that bzitch of a bolt (14mm head) behind the pump.
11. Tighten the AC belt up top by tightening the tensioner.
12. Tighten the crank pulley as best as u can. You may want to take it to a place to buzz it on tight with air gun.
13. Replace splash guard. Install wheel and tighten lug nuts.
14. Fire it up and off you go.
Ill let you know my butt dyno results after i drive it a while. If you want pics, I can take some of the tensioners or anything else if you really want me to.
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right. Loosen lugnuts of passenger side wheel and jack up the car and put a jack stand under the frame.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove splash shield.
4. Open the hood. If you look down in between the engine and engine compartment, you will see a brass colored nut. Loosen this and you loosen the tensioner which relaeses the tension on the AC belt.
5. The next two steps are a bit tricky. The first is removing the power steering belt. Reach waaaaay back and up behind the power steering pump and you will feel a larger 14mm head bolt. Loosen it (since its facing you, the wrench will go clockwise) a couple of turns. Now look under at the power steering pump and you will see another brass colored bolt bolted into a piece of brass colored metal that has a bolt going towards engine. Loosen bolt going toward engine and then tighten lower bolt until belt is loose.
6. Now here is a neat trick Kamski taught me to remove crank bolt. Take a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 19mm socket. Make sure its a hardened socket. Wedge the ratchet so its against the control arm. Now, get in the car and bump the starter. It took 3 bumps for me and off it came.
******TO CLEAR UP THE CONTROVERSIAL ISSUE OF DIRECTION OF THE BOLT, THE CRANK BOLT HAS NORMAL THREADS, DO YOU ALL UNDERSTAND ME??? NORMAL THREADS!!!!!!! NOT REVERSE THREADS. THE BELTS SPIN CLOCKWISE AS YOU FACE THE ENGINE FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE. SO, THE BOLT IS UNDONE COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.********
7. My pulley slid off with no problems.
8. The new lightweight pulley slides on with a bit of copper anti-sieze spread around the inside surface where it slides on the crank.
9. I used the OEM power steering belt. But I did use the belt recommended for the AC and alternator.
10. Loosen the bolt to tighten power steering until belt is firm. The tighten the engine-facing bolt. Then tighten that bzitch of a bolt (14mm head) behind the pump.
11. Tighten the AC belt up top by tightening the tensioner.
12. Tighten the crank pulley as best as u can. You may want to take it to a place to buzz it on tight with air gun.
13. Replace splash guard. Install wheel and tighten lug nuts.
14. Fire it up and off you go.
Ill let you know my butt dyno results after i drive it a while. If you want pics, I can take some of the tensioners or anything else if you really want me to.
07-17-2006, 05:59 AM
#2
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Deus, excellent write up. One question, don't you think it would be easier to remove the lugnuts/wheel first and than turn the wheel all the way to the right???
07-17-2006, 05:31 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by chernmax
Deus, excellent write up. One question, don't you think it would be easier to remove the lugnuts/wheel first and than turn the wheel all the way to the right???
07-17-2006, 06:53 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Yes .. if u want ur wheel to fall off, lol!!
I'm just curious as to how with the wheel turned all the way to the right are you able to remove the lug nuts then slip off the wheel once on a jack stand???
07-17-2006, 07:54 PM
#5
Originally Posted by chernmax
I'm just curious as to how with the wheel turned all the way to the right are you able to remove the lug nuts then slip off the wheel once on a jack stand???
Great write-up. I do like the starter trick. I would add Loctite on the crank bolt. I luv that stuff.
07-19-2006, 09:15 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by koyoki
chernmax: somebody steped on the brakes and someone undo the bolts while the brakes are applied.
07-19-2006, 12:46 PM
#12
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
No weaknesses whatsoever. Air temp was over 100 and it cooled my down nicely. Car feels spunkier, crisper accelerating. I am pleased.
im just afraid of having shortages of power to various things on my car like a/c, stereo, due to underdriving. you think you wouldnt have any problems with any of ur stock electronics even things such as stereo on full blast? just trying to get an idea of how much electrical power underiving takes away.
07-19-2006, 03:01 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by aryathegreat
im just afraid of having shortages of power to various things on my car like a/c, stereo, due to underdriving. you think you wouldnt have any problems with any of ur stock electronics even things such as stereo on full blast? just trying to get an idea of how much electrical power underiving takes away.
Worry NOT!!!
07-19-2006, 03:27 PM
#14
Originally Posted by aryathegreat
im just afraid of having shortages of power to various things on my car like a/c, stereo, due to underdriving. you think you wouldnt have any problems with any of ur stock electronics even things such as stereo on full blast? just trying to get an idea of how much electrical power underiving takes away.
07-20-2006, 02:55 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
it was proven by another site that there were no changes in volts throughout the system when a pulley is installed. remember this pulley isn't any smaller than the oem one, is just ligther in weight, so its still spinning at the same rate as the oem one..
07-21-2006, 03:33 PM
#20
Originally Posted by aryathegreat
this is the same with all the underdrive pulley kits for our cars?
07-22-2006, 07:58 AM
#22
Very Informative post: Problem with my UDP
Great info! I am having a bit of a problem. The car is going in on Monday for the front brakes. I am changing the front pads (HAWK) and cross-driller rotors. They are from KVR and I think they are about 1" larger in diameter than stocks. The pads are HPS.
Anyway enough about that. My problem: I have a UR UDP installed. I am getting a noise around 1500 RPM like a chirping sound. It's not to loud although it is easily noticeble. However when I turn on the AIRCON the noise is there all the time. Not just at 1500 RPM. IS this a bearing issue or the Alternator? If it is a bearing issue, did my mechanic over tighten something when he installed it? The installation was done at my local Nissan dealership.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Anyway enough about that. My problem: I have a UR UDP installed. I am getting a noise around 1500 RPM like a chirping sound. It's not to loud although it is easily noticeble. However when I turn on the AIRCON the noise is there all the time. Not just at 1500 RPM. IS this a bearing issue or the Alternator? If it is a bearing issue, did my mechanic over tighten something when he installed it? The installation was done at my local Nissan dealership.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
07-22-2006, 08:19 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by xorbitman
Great info! I am having a bit of a problem. The car is going in on Monday for the front brakes. I am changing the front pads (HAWK) and cross-driller rotors. They are from KVR and I think they are about 1" larger in diameter than stocks. The pads are HPS.
Anyway enough about that. My problem: I have a UR UDP installed. I am getting a noise around 1500 RPM like a chirping sound. It's not to loud although it is easily noticeble. However when I turn on the AIRCON the noise is there all the time. Not just at 1500 RPM. IS this a bearing issue or the Alternator? If it is a bearing issue, did my mechanic over tighten something when he installed it? The installation was done at my local Nissan dealership.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Anyway enough about that. My problem: I have a UR UDP installed. I am getting a noise around 1500 RPM like a chirping sound. It's not to loud although it is easily noticeble. However when I turn on the AIRCON the noise is there all the time. Not just at 1500 RPM. IS this a bearing issue or the Alternator? If it is a bearing issue, did my mechanic over tighten something when he installed it? The installation was done at my local Nissan dealership.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
NEW RECOMMENDED BELT SIZE / BRAND ARE:
ALTERNATOR & A/C BELT:
GATES, Part# K060408
(41.5" or 1055mm) OR
GATES, Part# K060410
(41" 5/8 or 1066mm)
POWER STEERING BELT:
GATES, Part# K040300
(30.75" or 780mm)
If the belts where not replaced, chirping is a normal side effect. Last there is also a possibility the belts may have not been tightened enough...
07-22-2006, 12:02 PM
#25
Thank you to Chernmax and DeusExMaxima. Both belts were replace as indicated.
I will get my dealer to check this on Monday while they replace the Brakes. I have an actuator for the driver's door that needs replacing too. First time I see that.
I love the look on some of the faces of the GTI, Ricer Civics and Mustang drivers when I pass them on the Highway. No racing of course, just passing by and smiling! Next mod after the brakes will be the Y pipe and the cats....and maybe the mufflers (NISMO). I also have an APEXi NEO on order although I have some reservations about that. I have been hearing stuff about the timing. Any suggestions or observations about the APEXi Chernmax and DeusEx?
I will get my dealer to check this on Monday while they replace the Brakes. I have an actuator for the driver's door that needs replacing too. First time I see that.
I love the look on some of the faces of the GTI, Ricer Civics and Mustang drivers when I pass them on the Highway. No racing of course, just passing by and smiling! Next mod after the brakes will be the Y pipe and the cats....and maybe the mufflers (NISMO). I also have an APEXi NEO on order although I have some reservations about that. I have been hearing stuff about the timing. Any suggestions or observations about the APEXi Chernmax and DeusEx?
07-22-2006, 12:13 PM
#27
By the way Chern, lots of cool rides on your web site! I have that Trenz Grille. I removed the Trenz logo and I put the same Nissan Emblem you have on your trunk on the front on that grille. I got a lot of compliments. I am currently lookin for a site where I can post pics so that I can share them.
07-22-2006, 12:18 PM
#28
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An addition to my write up: Make sure you neither OVERtighten nor UNDERtighten the belts. My theory is to undertighten and then tighten them up until just after squeal goes away. If you overtighten, you damage bearings of the accessories and thats really bad and expensive.
07-24-2006, 09:30 AM
#31
Originally Posted by billa7140
i heard pulleys arent good for your motor
"IMPORTANT: Vehicle manufacturers have thoroughly investigated the use of torsional vibration dampeners and conclude that their use significantly reduces NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Furthermore, manufacturer and independent research shows that torsional vibration dampeners are critical to engine life where long-term use is intended. Removing the torsional vibration dampener from an engine can be highly detrimental to its long-term operation!"
Such disclaimer makes people nervous, plus other forums posting that people find gold particles in their oil soon before bearing failure (spun) and attribute the failure to the lighter pulley. Seems this is primarily caused by oil pump failure, not the pulley.
Unorthodox shows a dyno graph with 9hp/11lbs-ft improvement on a VQ35 02 Max with their pulley. Didn't think it was that much gain.
07-24-2006, 11:05 AM
#32
Therefore no problem to install it on a MAX
Originally Posted by madmik
The pulley on the VQ35 is not a harmonic balancer/torsional damper. The engine is internally balanced. You probably read this version of an AEM post:
"IMPORTANT: Vehicle manufacturers have thoroughly investigated the use of torsional vibration dampeners and conclude that their use significantly reduces NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Furthermore, manufacturer and independent research shows that torsional vibration dampeners are critical to engine life where long-term use is intended. Removing the torsional vibration dampener from an engine can be highly detrimental to its long-term operation!"
Such disclaimer makes people nervous, plus other forums posting that people find gold particles in their oil soon before bearing failure (spun) and attribute the failure to the lighter pulley. Seems this is primarily caused by oil pump failure, not the pulley.
Unorthodox shows a dyno graph with 9hp/11lbs-ft improvement on a VQ35 02 Max with their pulley. Didn't think it was that much gain.
"IMPORTANT: Vehicle manufacturers have thoroughly investigated the use of torsional vibration dampeners and conclude that their use significantly reduces NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). Furthermore, manufacturer and independent research shows that torsional vibration dampeners are critical to engine life where long-term use is intended. Removing the torsional vibration dampener from an engine can be highly detrimental to its long-term operation!"
Such disclaimer makes people nervous, plus other forums posting that people find gold particles in their oil soon before bearing failure (spun) and attribute the failure to the lighter pulley. Seems this is primarily caused by oil pump failure, not the pulley.
Unorthodox shows a dyno graph with 9hp/11lbs-ft improvement on a VQ35 02 Max with their pulley. Didn't think it was that much gain.
Peace!
07-24-2006, 05:55 PM
#33
Hi DeusX and Chernmax
Got the car back today. My mechanic at the stealership replaced a part which was loose but he also said that the noise is still there. The belt for the Alternator is a bit too loose. I had given him the K060408 when he installed the UDP, however he said he was able to tighten the original almost enough. He admitted that almost was not good enough and recommended that I get a new belt. He said that the noise is also caused by the original belt (that was used) being worn out since it was loose. So I am heading out to my favorite parts store tomorrow at lunch time to purchase the very belt that I returned
. So yes you guys were definately right about the belt.
He said that the belt I gave him last time K060408 was too big...is that possible? He asked for the next size down. I am going to get both...if: a. you guy recommend it and b. if they have it. By the way is your UDP a UR also? (Unorthodox Racing).
The new KVR front cross-drilled (and cadmium plated) rotors with the Hawk HPS brake pads were installed and they look good and brake nice. I guess the slight grinding noise goes away after 200 miles?
The power door lock actuator is BO...who knows.
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
. So yes you guys were definately right about the belt. He said that the belt I gave him last time K060408 was too big...is that possible? He asked for the next size down. I am going to get both...if: a. you guy recommend it and b. if they have it. By the way is your UDP a UR also? (Unorthodox Racing).The new KVR front cross-drilled (and cadmium plated) rotors with the Hawk HPS brake pads were installed and they look good and brake nice. I guess the slight grinding noise goes away after 200 miles?
The power door lock actuator is BO...who knows.
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
07-24-2006, 06:53 PM
#35
Installation wasnt that hard. The bolt on the pulley can be loosen up by just using the air impact gun and no need to hold the pulley in place. after torqing it for about 30 sec the bolt came rite out and same way to tighten it This write was very helpful.
07-24-2006, 08:09 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by xorbitman
Got the car back today. My mechanic at the stealership replaced a part which was loose but he also said that the noise is still there. The belt for the Alternator is a bit too loose. I had given him the K060408 when he installed the UDP, however he said he was able to tighten the original almost enough. He admitted that almost was not good enough and recommended that I get a new belt. He said that the noise is also caused by the original belt (that was used) being worn out since it was loose. So I am heading out to my favorite parts store tomorrow at lunch time to purchase the very belt that I returned . So yes you guys were definately right about the belt. He said that the belt I gave him last time K060408 was too big...is that possible? He asked for the next size down. I am going to get both...if: a. you guy recommend it and b. if they have it. By the way is your UDP a UR also? (Unorthodox Racing).
The new KVR front cross-drilled (and cadmium plated) rotors with the Hawk HPS brake pads were installed and they look good and brake nice. I guess the slight grinding noise goes away after 200 miles?
The power door lock actuator is BO...who knows.
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
. So yes you guys were definately right about the belt. He said that the belt I gave him last time K060408 was too big...is that possible? He asked for the next size down. I am going to get both...if: a. you guy recommend it and b. if they have it. By the way is your UDP a UR also? (Unorthodox Racing).The new KVR front cross-drilled (and cadmium plated) rotors with the Hawk HPS brake pads were installed and they look good and brake nice. I guess the slight grinding noise goes away after 200 miles?
The power door lock actuator is BO...who knows.
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Also (sorry it has been a while) but I believe the noise is caused by the belt thickness (squeal), the OEM belt is slightly bigger and a tiny bit fatter, the Gates belts are what is recommended by UR on there web site...
07-24-2006, 08:36 PM
#38
Good stuff Guys! Thanks for the info and help. My parts supplier (he's also my friend...I guess that helps) told me that he has the belt in stock and so I'm off to Nissan again tomorrow to finish the job that was started.
Happy motoring!
Happy motoring!
07-27-2006, 10:23 AM
#39
UDP Install on a Canadian 05 MAX SE
Well I got the car back from the stealership yesterday late afternoon. I can't tell you why but the K060408 is too long and does not tighten properly. Luckily I ordered the K060400 belt which is one size smaller than the other one by about one inch. I don't know if the Canadian Maxima's are different but that is my experience. And the chirping noise is gone, my guess is that the original belt was used and needed replacing. It is recommended not to use any original belts even if they almost fit. I can hear some pinging now though so it's time for the 94 octane again!