Service Engine Soon Light
#1
Service Engine Soon Light
Hey guys the other sday the service engine soon light came on so i had to think real hard about taking it to the stealer ship. Well to Sat 1/17 I took it to my local dealer to get it checked out. Well after an hour of waiting they diagnosed the problem to be the catalytic convertor.
I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.
Talon05
I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.
Talon05
#4
Hey guys the other sday the service engine soon light came on so i had to think real hard about taking it to the stealer ship. Well to Sat 1/17 I took it to my local dealer to get it checked out. Well after an hour of waiting they diagnosed the problem to be the catalytic convertor.
I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.
Talon05
I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.
Talon05
I didnt know they were that expensive
at 32 K miles, one of mine crapped out but it was under warranty
1200? ****
#5
You might check on some people parting out their cars after accidents. You can usually get a pretty good price from people on here. I have heard about a bunch of 1 car wrecks on here due to ice on the road.
#8
I had the same problem with my 05 max. I picked up my max from the dealer after having the timing belt tensioners replaced for the squeaking noise, about 8 hours later I get the SES light. Took it to the dealer next day and the cat needed to be replaced. Luckily for me, I was still barely within my 36,000 mile warranty.
#10
Can you tell us what the code was? Was it P0420, P0430 or a different code? There is an issue with the VQ35s in Maximas, Altimas and Quests where the bank 1 catalytic converter has a heat sheild that is spot welded on in three places and these spot welds tend to break thus making a rattle/buzzing sound when your accelerating near 2500 rpm. Also sometimes thesr spot welds break off in a way where it creates a small hole in the catalytic converter and allows outside air to enter the cat and thus fooling the rear oxygen sensor into an improper reading and telling your ECM the cat is bad when in fact the cat is still good, it just has a hole in it.
Let us know what code it really is because there is a couple things you can do.
1. Replace the catalytic converter assembly thats bad at your cost since your 8/80k emissions warranty is over orrr...
2. You can take it to a muffler shop and have the person weld closed that small hole the broken spot weld left behind. Then you can have him reattatch the heatsheild.
#11
Yes exactly! The ECM doesn't care about the post cat located in the Y pipe, it only monitors the precats that bolt to the exhaust manifolds. So aftermarket Y pipe or having a universal OBDII cat cut and welded in won't help anything.
Can you tell us what the code was? Was it P0420, P0430 or a different code? There is an issue with the VQ35s in Maximas, Altimas and Quests where the bank 1 catalytic converter has a heat sheild that is spot welded on in three places and these spot welds tend to break thus making a rattle/buzzing sound when your accelerating near 2500 rpm. Also sometimes thesr spot welds break off in a way where it creates a small hole in the catalytic converter and allows outside air to enter the cat and thus fooling the rear oxygen sensor into an improper reading and telling your ECM the cat is bad when in fact the cat is still good, it just has a hole in it.
Let us know what code it really is because there is a couple things you can do.
1. Replace the catalytic converter assembly thats bad at your cost since your 8/80k emissions warranty is over orrr...
2. You can take it to a muffler shop and have the person weld closed that small hole the broken spot weld left behind. Then you can have him reattatch the heatsheild.
Can you tell us what the code was? Was it P0420, P0430 or a different code? There is an issue with the VQ35s in Maximas, Altimas and Quests where the bank 1 catalytic converter has a heat sheild that is spot welded on in three places and these spot welds tend to break thus making a rattle/buzzing sound when your accelerating near 2500 rpm. Also sometimes thesr spot welds break off in a way where it creates a small hole in the catalytic converter and allows outside air to enter the cat and thus fooling the rear oxygen sensor into an improper reading and telling your ECM the cat is bad when in fact the cat is still good, it just has a hole in it.
Let us know what code it really is because there is a couple things you can do.
1. Replace the catalytic converter assembly thats bad at your cost since your 8/80k emissions warranty is over orrr...
2. You can take it to a muffler shop and have the person weld closed that small hole the broken spot weld left behind. Then you can have him reattatch the heatsheild.
#13
Thanks for the quick response from everyone on here. Someone asked for the code which was------ Code # P0240 for BANK 1 CATALYST SYSTEM. Yeaj florida suspend emissions a few years ago and I'm think of getting it check out first by a local muffler shop and see what my other choices are. Mine lasted to 96k what in the hell would make the CAT go out a 36k.
Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
#14
Thanks for the quick response from everyone on here. Someone asked for the code which was------ Code # P0240 for BANK 1 CATALYST SYSTEM. Yeaj florida suspend emissions a few years ago and I'm think of getting it check out first by a local muffler shop and see what my other choices are. Mine lasted to 96k what in the hell would make the CAT go out a 36k.
Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
But honestly I think its that spot weld thats broken off, does your repair order state this or are they just saying the cat is bad? Can you scan the repair order you got from the dealer and post it?
Here's a pic of the suspect cat and heatsheild im talking about under TSB NTB05-013.
#16
Hey Turbizzy thanks for the information and the picture, I will head to the muffler shop soon as possible and have them do an overall check. The stealership will not see my 1200.00 bucks no time soon or in the future.
#17
Check for a hole in the heat shield area and did not see any holes. I have driven about 150 miles since the dealership checked it out last weekend and the light has not come back on. So I'm will have a local shop check it out soon just to be safe. One of my buddies told me to go to racingline and get the mod to replace the stock CATS.
#18
Not sure what that mod is exactly, you have a link or info on it?
When you checked the heatsheild, did you stick a screwdriver between the cat and heatsheild and carefully pry on it to check to see if the sheild is still attatched to the welds? Do it carefully cuz you don't wanna actually break off the weld if it is still attatched. All you wanna do is see if the welds are good, theres 3.
Otherwise, just check for intake leaks and if all is well then you really might just need a cat. I've seen those go bad pretty often. It might show up sooner and sooner as the cat dies out.
When you checked the heatsheild, did you stick a screwdriver between the cat and heatsheild and carefully pry on it to check to see if the sheild is still attatched to the welds? Do it carefully cuz you don't wanna actually break off the weld if it is still attatched. All you wanna do is see if the welds are good, theres 3.
Otherwise, just check for intake leaks and if all is well then you really might just need a cat. I've seen those go bad pretty often. It might show up sooner and sooner as the cat dies out.
#19
not always the answer. with the precats on our cars, there is a huge space issue. they have special flanges to attach the rest of the exhaust and cant be moved forward or backward because it will effect how they are lit during the closed loop stage of you engine fuel trim. with the post cats you might be able to weld one in, but ti will look like *** and there will probably still be a space issue.
Last edited by Shoey1; 01-24-2009 at 04:07 PM.
#20
I took my 2004 maxima to the dealer and they said catalytic convertor, cam & crank position sensors all need to be replaced. $2300 later my maxima is ridding fine again. if I didn't like this car so much I would have put it up for sale already but what else am I gonna get for less than $10,000 that's this tight?
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