spark plug recommendations
#1
spark plug recommendations
I need to replace the spark plugs on my wife's 99 I30. Which spark plugs would ya recommend. I know NGKs are good, but which NGKs? I believe the factory plugs are PFR5G-11's, but they are a bit pricey. Anyone know of a good cheaper alternative? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay the money for them?
#2
OEM is best when it comes to spark plugs.
Look at it this way, new ones are not cheap, but they are good for 100K miles. What are the chances of you having to replace them a second time?
Look at it this way, new ones are not cheap, but they are good for 100K miles. What are the chances of you having to replace them a second time?
#3
OEM NGKs are the way to go like for exapmle PFR7G-11 the coldest type. I'm very satisfied with them
Or you can try the new Pulstar plugs and let us know if they worth it or not
http://www.pulstarplug.com/
Or you can try the new Pulstar plugs and let us know if they worth it or not
http://www.pulstarplug.com/
#5
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Why are you using 2step colder plugs? N2O, boost?
#8
OEM NGKs are the way to go like for exapmle PFR7G-11 the coldest type. I'm very satisfied with them
Or you can try the new Pulstar plugs and let us know if they worth it or not
http://www.pulstarplug.com/
Or you can try the new Pulstar plugs and let us know if they worth it or not
http://www.pulstarplug.com/
IMHO, I cannot see the justification for dropping $150 for a set of plugs when there is no data, long-term or otherwise, on the use of them in our 6-cyl engines.
#9
BTW, the price is fine for me, since the NGKs(platinium) cost here 20-25$ a piece, which is unbelievable
#11
Holy cow! Maybe I could sell them to you from here and list them as "Christmas ornaments" on the customs forms, just in case.
#13
Yeah, you're kidding, but you can't imagine how the parts are expensive here For example - one OEM coil costs 4.000kc = $200 and the NGKs price, what i mentioned above is w/o the 19% tax!
Sorry for the OT
#14
NGK BKR6EIX-11 , so smooth
You can get it for 7.32 each at
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cr...eix-11&x=0&y=0
You can get it for 7.32 each at
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cr...eix-11&x=0&y=0
#15
NGK BKR6EIX-11 , so smooth
You can get it for 7.32 each at
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cr...eix-11&x=0&y=0
You can get it for 7.32 each at
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cr...eix-11&x=0&y=0
I've also had very good luck with Bosch Platinum +4's. I cannot recommend any of the other Bosch plugs, though, and I understand why some people have had problems with them. However, they got it right with the +4's.
Now, they have a new line of +4's with Iridium called Fusion, I believe. I wonder if anyone here is running them.
#20
Although, with 32k on your car, you might consider taking out one or two of the plugs and having a look at the electrodes.
You can find photos of how plugs should look if your car is running properly, and how they might look if it's not. These photos are available online and in the back of the Haynes manual.
I would also check the gaps, too.
#21
This topic has been discussed since Noah built his ark...
NGK Coppers if you want to change'em every 25k miles or so, platinum 60-80k (tho nissan says 100k)
index the spark plugs -> GOOGLE IT
go a step colder if you do alot of higway
hotter for city -> SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND
#22
I put a set of fusion in and didn't really notice to much of a difference however after 50,000 miles I decided to change them out and go with NGK's (platinum). I was getting on a entrance ramp and decided to floor it through the gears and noticed smoke coming out the back. What would cause that? It wasn't smoking with the fusions. This only happens at full throttle. The person at O'Reileys told me these plugs were pre-gaped. Is this true? The digits on the NGK box are are BKR5EGP 7090. Is that the correct plug?
#23
BKR5EGP 7090's are made for the Toyota Yaris, so yes, not the right one.
BTW, all high-end plugs for our cars are pre-gapped.
I've been using NGK Iridium IX's, love them I highly recommend them over Platinums.
They are worth the extra price.
Here are the proper part numbers, and the gap width.
BKR5EIX-11 5464 .044
BTW, all high-end plugs for our cars are pre-gapped.
I've been using NGK Iridium IX's, love them I highly recommend them over Platinums.
They are worth the extra price.
Here are the proper part numbers, and the gap width.
BKR5EIX-11 5464 .044
Last edited by dr-rjp; 12-10-2008 at 04:37 AM.
#24
Stick with OEM plugs, your wallet will thank you, in the long run.
I flirted with Iridiums in a '99 I30. Idling weirdness crept in. Switched back to OEM platinums and haven't looked back since. And don't wait 100k to replace them. They may not come out of the block so easily after that period of time.
Change around 60k. That is all.
Change around 60k. That is all.
#26
Ditto to the "don't wait for 100k" advice.
I might also add that b/f the iridiums, I was running Bosch Platinum +4's for the first 70K, and they worked for me nicely (and, yes, I heard all about the bad rap for Bosch, and I can vouch for that it their other plugs, but I am convinced that the +4's are not part of that bad bunch).
I really didn't need to replace them when I did, as the car ran fine and they came out looking like the "normal" photos in the Chilton comparison chart. Same-same for the +4's I ran in my 3rd Gen Max, except that I put 110k on them b/f changing them.They also looked evenly coated, but the electrode had worn down making the gap wider. IMHO, the car actually ran better when the gap was wider, so I'm thinking that the recommended gap is on the conservative side.
I might also add that b/f the iridiums, I was running Bosch Platinum +4's for the first 70K, and they worked for me nicely (and, yes, I heard all about the bad rap for Bosch, and I can vouch for that it their other plugs, but I am convinced that the +4's are not part of that bad bunch).
I really didn't need to replace them when I did, as the car ran fine and they came out looking like the "normal" photos in the Chilton comparison chart. Same-same for the +4's I ran in my 3rd Gen Max, except that I put 110k on them b/f changing them.They also looked evenly coated, but the electrode had worn down making the gap wider. IMHO, the car actually ran better when the gap was wider, so I'm thinking that the recommended gap is on the conservative side.
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