Buzz

I bought my 2K SE auto in March 00, brand new-6 miles on it. After 350 miles, it began this starting problem. Sometimes when I turn the key, it turns over like it's going to start but then dies and doesn't catch. I now have 9,200 miles and same issue. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold, temperature outside, how long I hold the key or gas octane. I've brought to the dealer several times and of course, they can't duplicate. Anyone hear anything about this????

MaximaZero

most of us here have that prob. ive heard that it's something to do with the ingition not picking up the code embedded on the key inside the chip..

Buzz

Except, while the dealer had my car for 4 days, they completely decoded the keys and recoded. I did a drive by while they were doing it...still didn't stop the problem.
Did you have your recoded?

xydavid

Hey, has anyone tried starting the car with an invalidly coded key? Just curious if the car even tried to turnover or what.

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

I think if you use a key without the chip in it, the car will start, but will die soon thereafter. At least that's what I have heard.

Buzz

While I was watching, the mechanic tested the recoded keys. He forgot to recode one, the car did not start...If the problem was the key, wouldn't it happen every time?

CMARION

I just took my 2000 Maxima in to the dealer today, and believe it or not they couldn't duplicate the problem. I have heard that if you have a Mobil Speedpass on your key ring it will create a similar problem, but that isn't my problem. The first symptom I had was the starter would make a grinding sound before starting up. Yesterday, the starter turned and turned but the engine wouldn't ignite until I pumped the gas a couple times. I'm wondering if there's something funny going on with the injectors?

Keep me posted if you find anything.

Cmarion

[Edited by CMARION on 12-06-2000 at 12:06 AM]

young1976

Yup, once in a while the car turns over but won't start. I think it has to do with the code in the chip. That happened to one of my keys once. And if you try another key or immediately try starting again, it may not start but will turn over because the code actually allows it to spark/send fuel therefore starting the car... no fuel, no start, just turn over.

But if the car does not start, shut it off, wait a couple of seconds and try it again. It needs time to reset.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

I talked to Nissan after a few trips to the dealer... I was told this:

The engine must fire on cyl #1 for the car to start (the other 5 cyls dont matter). If it misses, the crank must go around completely again. During this revolution, its likely to be too rich on the next revolution. Now, it takes a few more cranks for the car to choke/lean and fire. My car is rough for 5 secs or so when it does finally fire, leading me to believe this theory they gave me.

Unlike 4 cyls in the honda I had, this seems to take forever. I have to crank much longer than Hondas.

One time, my car wouldnt start after 5 mins of reluctantly trying short 5-8 sec cranks. I called the dealer, they said "just drag the starter for as long as it takes, we will replace it if you burn the starter". At about 12-15 secs of constant cranking, it fired. and ran like hell for about 15 secs. but then was fine. that hasnt happened again for sometime.

From what I've been told, if you slide your keys across one of the anti-theft things at a check out counter, or something like that, youre screwed, the key will be useless. It wont start later. it just wont start. Everyone that I have heard having *real* keycode problems were left stranded and the car was towed to the dealer. It only took the dealer 15 mins to recode, but the car was dead, not intermittant. the dealer also told me it wasnt the keys as I wouldnt be able to start at all.

JdoubleOe703

iTrader: (6)

I had the exact same problem, but it just stopped one day. I hated it. I think maximas have one too many bugs. it sorta makes me mad on how it has these little problems which if fixed would make the max the best four door car out there.

Buzz

It seems some of us might have different starting problems, I think. When my max doesn't start on the 1st try, I immediately turn the key and it always starts on the second try. The dealer told me if it was the starter, it wouldn't even crank. TimW mentioned recently to have the injectors checked. Tim, what's involved with that? Sounds complicated...I have to make an appt. soon. I got the regional Nissan Rep involved.
Cmarion, I'll let you know...

CMARION

My situation has been like both of your explanations. It originally started like Buzz's where it wouldn't start immediately, but would start shortly thereafter. On a couple occaisions it made a buzzing (no pun intended) sound. This happened about 5-6 times. The other day I experienced a problem just like Tim W explained. The starter turned and turned for about 5-6 seconds and wouldn't start. I then turned it again for about 5-6 seconds and pumped the gas and it finally fired. Based on the way it started and the exhaust smell, it did seem like the mixture was too rich.

cmarion

jnm2kse

once..I think Did not start the first time I cranked it but fired right after that. I think I've seen some talk on the Edmunds board that if you start the car up and lets just say move it a few feet(into a space, garage etc) and then leave it overnight, you will probably have some trouble starting it in the morning...why? I don't know..just something I read

As far as using a decoded key to try and start your car:

DON'T DO IT!!!


It will activate your security system and kill the car right where it is!!

I've needed to have my keys recoded each time they have replaced the ECM and I was only able to find 2 of the 3 keys at the time. The SM told me that if I find the 3rd key(which I have) do not try to start my car with it or what I said above will happen. 'm not about to try and find out if he is telling the truth

CMARION

Now we are getting somewhere jkn2kse. The other night my wife moved the car about 2 feet out of the driveway so I could hang Christmas lights. After I finished, she moved it back into place. The next morning it wouldn't start......Interesting!

cmarion

tomz17

If I had to make a wild conjecture here.. I would agree with the idea of checking the injectors... My Maxima always starts on the first try, but my '85 buick requires that you depress the gas pedal several times, before even budging (especially when the temparture dips to almost freezing)... Major difference here is that the buick has a carburetor, and the "depress gas pedal" part is actually part of the manufacturer's startup instructions. Maxima should NOT require this step (keyword SHOULD), and fooling with the gas pedal before starting will create a "rich" mixture...

The key idea is interesting, but obviously not foolproof... since Maximas STILL get stolen..

TimW

iTrader: (6)

the trying to crank later is a high probabilty it wont start.

As for the wrong key, dunno... my Pathfinder key is coded too, and slips right in.. My max doesnt care, just doesnt turn/start. I use to confuse them often, but had no correlation to the no start problem. Once I put in the right key it works. again, this wasnt the cause of the starting problems tho.

CMARION

TimW,

Why are you so certain that moving the car 2 feet, shutting down, and then restarting the next morning will cause ignition start-up issues? I believe this might explain the problem I had, but I'd like to learn more about it.

cmarion

DeTrini

This happened to me for the first time this morning. I assumed it was the cold weather, but I'll keep a closer eye on it

TimW

iTrader: (6)

that if I move my car, or simply start it and shut it down before the RPM settles down below 1000 (I guess that takes 40 secs), then the probability of starting problems is a 50-60% chance.

those odds arent high enough for me leave my car at the dealer for *days*. they wanted the car for an extend period of time (and NO LOANER because they wont give you one until they *find* the problem. thanks Nissan, glad I bought that gold warranty with rental coverage!! (end sarcasm) ). They couldnt follow simple directions the first or second time I told them how to replicate the problem (oh and once they forgot to try to start it). So I basically gave up trying to figure it out. Two Diags showed no problems either.

I'm still pretty angry about the rental policy on the extended gold warranty. Thats the biggest rip off. I was totally lied to by the dealer on how the rental works.

Buzz

Well, after 11,000 miles, FINALLY my check engine light came on recently, and stayed on. Brought to the dealer and YES, OH MY GOD, the computer actually showed an error code (P1320 & P0301). The problem? Is a bad ignition coil...
Part is on order, funny thing, it's on back order...Ummm, seems to me like they have a problem! And just to think, the dealer thought I was crazy all this time!

jw82

strange... i do that move the car 2 ft thing quite alot and i have never got the problem.. 8k miles on my car

sliderred

Hey Buzz I sent you an e-mail about the same problem I had, Let me know how you made out. Good Luck!

irvine78

iTrader: (2)

the car won't start if your key's are not coded..
if someone tried to start the car with wrong codes, that will terminate all recorded codes in the car...resulting a no-go...