Oil cooler delete kit plug question
#1
Oil cooler delete kit plug question
Hey there,
I have a 2002 Max with thriving bypass coolant tubes that one day will rust to pieces.
I ourchased the cooler delete kit.
My question is for the plug that goes in the back of the engine block. How does the plug seal the connection?
Do I need to purchase separate copper crush washers to go with the plug?
When I look at diagrams with the factory bypass tube, if I recall, it shows some sort of round object. I assume it was a washer. The kit comes with none.
I called the company that sold it but they offered no real help.
Thanks in advance
I have a 2002 Max with thriving bypass coolant tubes that one day will rust to pieces.
I ourchased the cooler delete kit.
My question is for the plug that goes in the back of the engine block. How does the plug seal the connection?
Do I need to purchase separate copper crush washers to go with the plug?
When I look at diagrams with the factory bypass tube, if I recall, it shows some sort of round object. I assume it was a washer. The kit comes with none.
I called the company that sold it but they offered no real help.
Thanks in advance
#2
from what i remember the banjo bolt that goes into the block for the oil cooler doesn't use metric threads, it's a pipe size 1/4 NPT or 3/8 NPT. I have both of those taps in my tool box and one of them matched up. you can get a brass plug that fits at a hardware store that sells plumbing supplies, I found it at lowes.
all you will need is the brass plug and some good teflon tape. make sure not to over tighten it either cause the threads are tapered and going too far in can damage the block. i tightened it with an adjustable wrench but with the handle pointed outward so i wouldn't over torque it.
the one i used looks like this
all you will need is the brass plug and some good teflon tape. make sure not to over tighten it either cause the threads are tapered and going too far in can damage the block. i tightened it with an adjustable wrench but with the handle pointed outward so i wouldn't over torque it.
the one i used looks like this
Last edited by uptownsamcv; 03-05-2024 at 07:31 PM.
#3
from what i remember the banjo bolt that goes into the block for the oil cooler doesn't use metric threads, it's a pipe size 1/4 NPT or 3/8 NPT. I have both of those taps in my tool box and one of them matched up. you can get a brass plug that fits at a hardware store that sells plumbing supplies, I found it at lowes.
all you will need is the brass plug and some good teflon tape. make sure not to over tighten it either cause the threads are tapered and going too far in can damage the block. i tightened it with an adjustable wrench but with the handle pointed outward so i wouldn't over torque it.
the one i used looks like this
all you will need is the brass plug and some good teflon tape. make sure not to over tighten it either cause the threads are tapered and going too far in can damage the block. i tightened it with an adjustable wrench but with the handle pointed outward so i wouldn't over torque it.
the one i used looks like this
I'm preparing soon once weather breaks to do this. It seems that I have to drop the Y pipe to get access or the axle. With all of it rusted down there, I have to thread lightly.
#4
rust is the worst. spent hours dealing with a rusty cv axle center bearing on my parents Toyota Sienna van last sunday. actually had to cut the axle in half to get the center bearing bracket off the block to remove the center bearing from it's housing. teh axle I was fighting wasn't even bad but my father just ordered both to have both of them new. the van is a 2013....
do you have an auto or manual tranny?
I have the 6 speed and I have always been able to remove the axles without taking off the Y pipe. now that I'm running 6th gen axles it's way easier because the heads on the center bearing bracket bolts face the passenger side.
do you have an auto or manual tranny?
I have the 6 speed and I have always been able to remove the axles without taking off the Y pipe. now that I'm running 6th gen axles it's way easier because the heads on the center bearing bracket bolts face the passenger side.
#5
I have a 6 spd.
Luckily, I had replaced the right axle almost 2 years ago. Let me tell you. It was a PITA. It took me about 1.5 hours to get it to unfreeze from the hanging bearing. I used heat and an air hamer. It went slowly but surely.
I had also replaced the Y pipe about 2 years ago. The Y pipe is replacement is like written in stone that every 3 years I have to replace it. At one point I looked into a stainless steel unit but couldn't find it so I just bought another expensive Y pipe.The flex pipe almost rusts to sh*t.
So, I'm thinking dropping the Y pipe will be a lot of easier. All the bolts are stainless so they'll come out easy.
Luckily, I had replaced the right axle almost 2 years ago. Let me tell you. It was a PITA. It took me about 1.5 hours to get it to unfreeze from the hanging bearing. I used heat and an air hamer. It went slowly but surely.
I had also replaced the Y pipe about 2 years ago. The Y pipe is replacement is like written in stone that every 3 years I have to replace it. At one point I looked into a stainless steel unit but couldn't find it so I just bought another expensive Y pipe.The flex pipe almost rusts to sh*t.
So, I'm thinking dropping the Y pipe will be a lot of easier. All the bolts are stainless so they'll come out easy.
#6
I replaced my Y pipe twice. i believe the first time was because of the flex pipe in it. I replaced it with one i fround on eBay for a good price and the fitment was good. the second time was when I switched to 4th gen fed spec exhaust manifolds with Warpspeed Y. the setup flows a lot better than gutted stock 5.5 gen exhaust manifolds and Y .
if you ever have to change your axles again I highly recommend upgrading to 6th gen axles only thing extra that is needed is the center bearing bracket for passenger side. I didn't find out until after paying $160 from Nissan but the 6th gen 6 speed center bearing bracket is the same as 1st gen Murano center bearing bracket which is easier to find used.
if you ever have to change your axles again I highly recommend upgrading to 6th gen axles only thing extra that is needed is the center bearing bracket for passenger side. I didn't find out until after paying $160 from Nissan but the 6th gen 6 speed center bearing bracket is the same as 1st gen Murano center bearing bracket which is easier to find used.
#7
I replaced my Y pipe twice. i believe the first time was because of the flex pipe in it. I replaced it with one i fround on eBay for a good price and the fitment was good. the second time was when I switched to 4th gen fed spec exhaust manifolds with Warpspeed Y. the setup flows a lot better than gutted stock 5.5 gen exhaust manifolds and Y .
if you ever have to change your axles again I highly recommend upgrading to 6th gen axles only thing extra that is needed is the center bearing bracket for passenger side. I didn't find out until after paying $160 from Nissan but the 6th gen 6 speed center bearing bracket is the same as 1st gen Murano center bearing bracket which is easier to find used.
if you ever have to change your axles again I highly recommend upgrading to 6th gen axles only thing extra that is needed is the center bearing bracket for passenger side. I didn't find out until after paying $160 from Nissan but the 6th gen 6 speed center bearing bracket is the same as 1st gen Murano center bearing bracket which is easier to find used.
Now, do I not see flex piping in that Y pipe??
#8
it's hard to see because of the angle but it has a short flex pipe. I went with 4th gen exhaust manifolds because they flow better. the 02-03 3.5's all came with the Cali spec exhaust manifold and Y pipe. there's a thread I came across a while back showing how restrictive the front exhaust manifold is on the Cali spec manifolds.
#9
it's hard to see because of the angle but it has a short flex pipe. I went with 4th gen exhaust manifolds because they flow better. the 02-03 3.5's all came with the Cali spec exhaust manifold and Y pipe. there's a thread I came across a while back showing how restrictive the front exhaust manifold is on the Cali spec manifolds.
#10
felt a bit more power up top. it made the factory exhaust louder which is probably another sign that it flows better.
right now I have a full 3" exhaust after the Y with cherry bomb glass pack for resonator and dynomax super turbo to keep the noise down.
#11
You car must sound real nice!
#12
the ECU reflash from Nisformance gave it more top end power, part of the reflash is intake cam timing adjustment which makes a huge difference. these cars have the same heads and cams as the Z..
#13
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