Jmarion85

I have tried absolutely everything trying to figure this out, I have a '02 max and one day out of no were it started misfiring and I have figured out that cylinders 1, 3, 5 are not firing. All the stuff I have done so far:
only code thrown is P0300 random misfire
Compression test all cylinders 140psi
Switched bank 2 coil packs with bank 1a
Replaced all coil packs
Replaced both cam and crank sensors
Replaced both VVT valves
Replaced plugs
Getting 12v to all coil packs
Back probed each coil pack and have continuity
Back probed pin #31 from ECU to relay and have continuity
Replaced relay
All injectors are working correctly

So as you can see I have tried to my knowledge everything, only thing I'm thinking it could be possibly is the driver in the ECU, I did a continuity test of each of the coil pins #5, #7, #16 and have continuity to the chip and there's no hot spots or anything to make me think it's fried.. I am at a lose of what is causing this to happen, I would just say screw the car but I can't afford another car it's all I got. I have even hooked up a Mac tools $6k scanner up to it and couldn't figure any out I could turn on each cylinder and it would obviously run better .. so if anyone has any ideas please let me know..


-Update-#feeling defeated....

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

good troubleshooting and parts cannon for sure. Only thing that makes sense to me is that VVT solenoid isn't getting signal.
You could get a junkyard/ebay ecu for peanuts and program keys with nissan datascan 2 (I can help with NDS2 wink wink).

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

How did you determine that cylinders 1, 3 and 5 are not firing? How did you determine that the injectors are in good working order?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I'm assuming he turned off the cylinders and nothing changed

Jmarion85

I verified cylinders #1, #3, #5 we're not firing by disconnecting one at a time and connecting to a spark tester directly to the coil pack, and the injector I was able to verify those with the Mac tools scanner via timing and pulse.. and yeah I actually turned them on cause they weren't firing to begin with so it actually ran better when I did so opposite of what it's supposed to do when you shut each cylinder down...


Ps Thanks guys for the replies keepem coming your input is very much appreciated...

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you need to put an Ole school inductive timing light to use at each ignition coilpack pigtail. You'll see the flashing if the coilpack is being sent the signal from the computer in real time. If there's a miss you'll see it! When you did your compression testing all the adjacent spark plugs were removed? If they were and now you're experiencing a misfire it's a intake leak more than likely! You did install new gaskets after pulling the upper intake to remove the spark plug and coil pack?????

uptownsamcv

I actually had to change my coil connectors at one point, the connection was bad.... I have an 02...

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Also, check that the connection/seal/interface between the coil pack itself and the coil protector/extension is fully clean and secure … I added a couple of photos in case you’re not clear as to what I’m talking about …

Once separated, I’d recommend just a tiny dab of dielectric grease at both the coil pack contact end and the spark plug contact end of the protector/extension.




Also, pull the spark plugs and make sure that the plug terminals are screwed on tight.

Jmarion85

Yeah I sorry I forgot to mention that as well, I purchased new coil packs but before that I did what your suggesting I put a small dab of dielectric grease in all the areas your suggesting, plus I removed all the plugs replaced with new and also swopped them around think the possibility of a bad plug but still the same..

This is why this is so frustrating is because 9/10 times when you have a misfire it's either one or two cylinders and it will shoot a code but no cylinder specific codes besides just the p0300..

I can already tell everyone is doing the same as me and that's scratching your heads lol, I'd say screw the car but I cant afford too..

uptownsamcv

when I was in your shoes I wired in new connectors for the coils.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Before you start snipping wires, try some e-contact cleaner in all of the coil harness connectors.

Then connect, disconnect and reconnect each connector at least three times.

uptownsamcv

where did you get the spark plugs from and what kind did you get?

I remember hearing about counterfeit plugs a while back...

any oil getting to the spark plugs.

check the coil sub harness connector since your misfire is on the entire rear bank.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I bet they're Duralast crap....

Jmarion85

Nope nope there definitely NGK double platinums and no they don't call for iridium's they call for double platinums...

Finally got my nisscan software to work well I needed the correct cable and I got it finally and I'm getting 4 fault codes:
P0118 ECT SEN/CIRCUIT
P1229 SENSOR POWER/CIRC
P0223 TP SEN1/CIRC
P2135 TP SENSOR

ANY HELP ASAP PLEASE WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED , Very hard to work without a vehicle no transit or available consistent rides and way to far to walk.. thanks for your help...

nick

iTrader: (10)

How does it ride with the random misfire code? Does it affect driveability/go into limp mode at all?

I would check the fuel pressure at the rail and the Fuel Pulsation Damper. It's possible that the random misfire could be caused by irregularities in fuel delivery to the injectors.

You have done a lot of work on it already unless you have to be trouble-code-free for emission/smog tests. I would just drive it.

uptownsamcv

I don't think a pulsation damper would cause that big of an issue. i've ran cars without them with no problems, even boosted.

nick

iTrader: (10)

That's good to know. I still think that it might be a fuel related issue, someone posted on the fb group that they were able to solve the multi cylinder misfire by replacing the fuel pump and the filter.

TallTom

Maybe change out the filter. Here is the guide I used to do mine many years ago, https://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html

vqmaxman

Did you check your coils for oil on them 1st the rear valve covers on these vq35de are ****ty plastic valve covers that have built in spark plug tube seals that fail and wear out and than the oil gets past the tube seals onto the coil packs and the spark plugs and it will cause the p300 multiple misfire code and even coils 1,3,5, to show you misfiring. If the rear valve cover is leaking or you have oil on the coils that means your rear valve covers are toast change them. If you don't have that as your issue and you did your wire testing to each coil all the way to the ecu pin points they test out good. Than you should look into changing out the ecu but I believe a bad ecu would also have code p0601 that's the bad ecu code. I would look into the harness for breakage it's 22 yrs old car with old harness check the top old harness at the top tower where they break usual they break by the top strut tower area top strut mount area and you should check with the car running wiggle the harness check for engine sounds and check for the change of the engine tone while running and when you wiggle the harness that should be the easy was to check the harness breakage. Let us know what you found wrong

vqmaxman

Luxmax don't forget to check the ckpos and pos sensors make sure they are free of oil you be surprise how much that just effects the car timing and performance my car was running sluggish and terrible i looked at the ckpos pos dirty full of oil dirt and grime i cleaned it than after that the car ran good as new and i even got the car running at full power again.

uptownsamcv

did you check for oil getting ot the plugs?

with your misfire being on 1,3, and 5 the problem is specific to that cylinder bank. I know the rear bank uses 2 sub harnesses, one for the injectors and another for the coil packs.

Jmarion85

Ok here's what's going on I've replaced the O2 sensors now, to no avail, and I did replace the dampners and actually gained a cylinder #3 is firing now but #1 and #5 are not still, I replaced the coolant temp sensor today and nothing's changed either, reason for the temp sensor is it was throwing the code, I am going to try and upload my datalog please tell me if anything is irregular cause honestly I don't know what I am looking at . Thanks to all for the advice, ideas, and just plan responding id just say screw the car but I can't afford too. Reason I can get the parts is an awesome dad but I'm not liking spending his money for non of it to work.. anyways thanks again and tell me what you think of the datalog..

uptownsamcv

I can't get the file to play.

when you changed the plugs did you install a new intake gasket ?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That spark tester method isn't as effective as the timing light method! Get an Ole school timing light and place the inductive pickup around the Coil pack connector pigtail and you can monitor the spark events and see whether it's dropping during accelerating the engine or decelerating the Engine. You never mention what brand coil packs you're using so I'm feeling a bit skeptical that they might be some cheap a$$ Duralast crap or name brand instead of the Hansin or Hitachi. If all this has been done and a Miss still exist that's an obvious indication of an Intake gasket leak. Pull you intake and inspect them. Then replace them all LIM to head, LIM to Plenum and maybe the Neck to Runner as well. Intake leaks show up as Misses! Have you checked your Detonation sensor circuit at all?

Jmarion85

First I want to thank everyone for all the help, cause I have officially given up but I have found a 4th Gen threw a friend it just has a bad transmission buta good engine only a 3.0l 😥 not the big girl 3.5l but I'm just gonna take the good with the bad and take my transmission from my gen 5 and transplant it into the gen 4, yes it is possible I just have to repin a couple plugs and couple more things which dont seem to hard, my only thing is I can't find a pinout of a finished swap, dont get me wrong I have both FSM's and I can figure it out myself I know i am capable of that but of anyone knows or could lead me to somewhere that does, that would be my last flavor on this issue... Anyways like I said thanks everyone on the advice believe me it's much appreciated 👍....

Oh I couldn't get the stupid datalog to upload I tried and tried to convert and compress it but the site only allows a tiny file so that's why it was never there..

uptownsamcv

with the age of these cars and from my experience I highly recommend wiring in new coil connectors, they were the first to fall apart on my car. my car is an 02 and to avoid getting a new engine harness i've wired in new connectors here and there and have some zip tied and she's still running like a champ. at one point I had a misfire after installing new coils and plugs and I ended up wiring in new connectors to all the coils. the pic of the green one all the way down at the bottom is the ignition coil sub harness on the rear bank, it broke when I disconnected it while pulling my engine for the swap so that zip tie saved me $160 lol... sometimes the problem may be simpler than you think.

nick

iTrader: (10)

Good work!

vqmaxman

Luxmax97 is a parts guy he has 4thgen and 5thgen car parts and he is a Montgomery County police cop informant and the org lurker the feds and the dod are on the org. Just beware of these guys on here montgomery County police and the cia nih are with luxmax97 and the nsa

TallTom

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!

uptownsamcv

🤔 that was really random....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

What Brand are your Coilpacks? Have you verified whether all this is just a leaking Intake gasket? I never get a reply on those questions!

vqmaxman

He said he changed 2 of his o2 sensors and gained the 3rd cylinder back change all of the o2 sensir. Hint: the o2 sensors help ecu mix fuel air ratio trim if your not getting proper a/f mix rstio you will get a misfire. If the coils are original over 10-15 years old they are shot and worn out try the power balance test with the consult get a reading of the coils if they are under 150-180 they are bad replace it with oem only they won't like anything else.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

vqmaxman:
You own a consult?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I just want to know what brand coil packs he's running? Still no answer!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I have at least 3 sets of used VQ35DE coil packs The set that on the VQ35DE now will probably be replaced and the Used 2022 engine I'm ordering will have a new set of Hitachi's or maybe try some NGK's just to see how well they work or not!

uptownsamcv

in the original post he said he changed all the coil packs.

uptownsamcv

i also asked if he used a new intake manifold gasket and he never answered...

Miko

It may very well be the fuel pump. The pick up screen may be clogged thus causing erratic flow to Throttle Body. It's a bit of a job If everything else fails.

TallTom

We would love to know the brand of coil packs used here. These cars are very sensitive when it comes to sensors and electrical parts.

uptownsamcv

when it comes to coils just don't get any no brand ones from eBay or Amazon. I've ran the Ultra Power coils from Rockauto on my original engine as well as my 2014 engine with no issues. I ran Duralast cam sensor for years on my original engine with no issues also. I ran a duralast MAF for year than when I switched to a used OEM one it made a noticeable difference, pulled a bit harder and idled way smoother. I'm running a Bosch fuel pump. my original fuel pump was sounding kind of loud so I changed it out. I gave that pump to a coworker that needed a working pump cause he wasn't sure if the one in his 2.5 Altima was bad. he installed that pump and it died shortly after, so I changed it just in time.

did the O.P. ever mention if he changed the intake manifold gasket or not when changing the plugs?