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Some members here have indicated using a VQ35DE engine made after 2013 to end the oil loss issue on a 2002 Maxima. New crate engines that fit that description can be found online for under $2K. A Dallas speed shop quoted $10K to $12K for labor because of an EGR (or was it ECU?) conversion. A also called Bravo Speed Shop in Monterrey, Nuevo Leon but they said "No haciemos adaptaciones". I don't believe that anyone in Piedras Negras has the expertise to do the job. I'm thinking that a shop on this list would charge maybe $3K to $4K. https://www.proyectecu.com/tuners/
That leads to the question, can I get a crate engine in the back of a 4Runner so that my wife can follow me to one of those shops in Mexico, probably in Guadalajara, Jalisco.
At the end of the day, is the best thing to do just change the PCV valve, put in a blow-by catch canister and use Amsoil?
Not trying to be rude so please dont take it that way but you are out of your mind if you are considering spending 12k on a VQ35DE gen 2 motor swap. You dont need to swap ecus. You make some minor modifications to the new motor, fiddle with some sensors, and thats it. You keep your existing ECU and harness.
If oil consumption is your reason for getting a new motor, then do that, and remove + gut your precats, because thats typically what causes the problem in the first place.
Not trying to be rude so please dont take it that way but you are out of your mind if you are considering spending 12k on a VQ35DE gen 2 motor swap. You dont need to swap ecus. You make some minor modifications to the new motor, fiddle with some sensors, and thats it. You keep your existing ECU and harness.
If oil consumption is your reason for getting a new motor, then do that, and remove + gut your precats, because thats typically what causes the problem in the first place.
To get workable pricing, I get an estimate from a reliable USA shop, then divide that amount by 3 or 4 and take it to Mexico. Since $12K was the price I got in Dallas, I was figuring $3K to $4K in Guadalajara, Jalisco. However to do that, I need to transport the new engine myself. The land border at Nuevo Laredo isn't too much of a pain in the butt. You bring your receipt for the new engine and pay a 19% duty. I was wondering how workable it is to get a crate engine loaded in the back of my 4runner. I would enjoy the retirement resort town of Ajijic, Jalisco while going into Guadalajara to check on my car. USA shop rates are typically $150 per hour while Mexican shop rates are typically $30 to $35 per hour. The dealer is a no-go because Nissan specifically prohibits US-purchased vehicles being repaired in their service centers in Mexico.
Given that the shop I spoke to in Dallas thinks of "tuning" first, the Mexico shop may be even less than $3K or $4K.
The funny thing is that shops that do "adaptaciones" mainly exist in either tourist or retirement destinations, specifically in the states of Jalisco and Quintana Roo.
Your link is very helpful. Work done at a Mexican shop needs to be closely supervised. Unlike USA shops, Mexican shops will tolerate being micromanaged.
The cars are not worth the $3k-$4k engine swap unless you or a friend are taking the task. If you have any issue from the mexican swap, you then need to get it back there to get it sorted.
Personally, if it's consuming oil, I would just continue to keep it topped off and ride until it dies. Expensive Amsoil on a car burning oil is a waste.
The cars are not worth the $3k-$4k engine swap unless you or a friend are taking the task. If you have any issue from the mexican swap, you then need to get it back there to get it sorted.
Personally, if it's consuming oil, I would just continue to keep it topped off and ride until it dies. Expensive Amsoil on a car burning oil is a waste.
What you say makes sense. I will likely wait 3 or 4 years to have the engine swap done. It's a rust-free Texas car with 138,000 miles on it. The market undervalues these cars. Try to find a fully functional 6 Speed, 6 Cylinder vehicle for under $10K. By fully functional, I mean something that can can be driven with confidence and is not an eyesore. I work remotely and HR authorized my work from Mexico request, so staying near where the work is being done is not an issue. I got my paint and A/C work done in Piedras Negras, right across the border from Eagle Pass, Texas. The car can already be driven with confidence as long as I keep the oil checked and dump in a quart every thousand miles. After reading this and other forums, it seems the thing to do is look for low cost ways to mitigate but not end the oil loss. I paid $3K for the car and have spent about $8K in body and mechanical parts and labor, mostly parts.
I notice that most people here get at least 200,000 miles out of their car, sometimes even 300,000. It will take me 5 years to get to 200,000 miles.
how much oil are you burning? older cars is fairly normal to burn some kind of oil.
if you are only burning a quart or so between oil changes that is really manageable to just monitor and top off weekly. I dont really see a great reason to do some crazy 12k engine swap.
how much oil are you burning? older cars is fairly normal to burn some kind of oil.
if you are only burning a quart or so between oil changes that is really manageable to just monitor and top off weekly. I dont really see a great reason to do some crazy 12k engine swap.
It's losing about a quart every 900 to 1000 miles. I understand that PCV clogging can make it much worse. I at least plan on changing the PCV valve and installing a filtered blow-by catch canister. A YouTube video said that a clogged PVC valve will put pressure on the gaskets and cause engine leaks.
This is my first time restoring a modern vehicle. My previous ones were a 1959 Chevrolet and a 1952 Chevrolet. I need to stay mindful that I WON'T have a $30,000 vehicle when I'm done. I'm sure that a 2002 Maxima will be WAY more reliable than a leaded fuel era vehicle. It is a pain in the butt that 2002 vehicles don't have PASSIVE crankcase ventilation instead of "POSITIVE" crankcase ventilation. In a 1950s vehicle, you can see the blow-by puff out underneath the engine.
The car can already be driven with confidence as long as I keep the oil checked and dump in a quart every thousand miles.
I wouldn't even worry about oil consumption like that. I don't know how many miles you put on your car in a year, but it sounds like you want to spend thousands of dollars to save a few dollars. Keep the oil topped off and drive it into the ground!
It's losing about a quart every 900 to 1000 miles. I understand that PCV clogging can make it much worse. I at least plan on changing the PCV valve and installing a filtered blow-by catch canister. A YouTube video said that a clogged PVC valve will put pressure on the gaskets and cause engine leaks.
The 2 valve covers are connected and can vent through the hose between the MAFS and TB. But the PCV valve is easy to replace so just do it.
5w30 has been my go to in the high mileage as well, i also noticed way less burning with less highway driving.
yea just set a weekly time to check the oil and stick too it, I check mine once a week around the weekends, if I drive over 2 hours to a destination I bring oil with me and check it before I drive back home (again highway trips burn more)
The 2 valve covers are connected and can vent through the hose between the MAFS and TB. But the PCV valve is easy to replace so just do it.
Thanks to the input here and other places, I plan to stay mindful of the oil level and PCV valve. I am also going to install an inexpensive filtered blow-by oil catch canister where the PCV hose exits. The blow-by has to go somewhere. Other commentators explained that a clogged PCV puts added pressure on the gaskets which will cause oil leaks and additional oil loss. At 12,000 miles per year, maybe it will be 10 years before I need a new engine. Some very big benefits of a 20 year old car is that it doesn't have many chips and it's not limited by the 14 year patent/copyright that causes many parts to be dealer only.
5w30 has been my go to in the high mileage as well, i also noticed way less burning with less highway driving.
yea just set a weekly time to check the oil and stick too it, I check mine once a week around the weekends, if I drive over 2 hours to a destination I bring oil with me and check it before I drive back home (again highway trips burn more)
Oil is cheap. Thanks for the pointer. I'm going to try Amsoil first, then perhaps Castrol GTX conventional to see of there's any difference. I will certainly try the 5W30. Apparently oil flow is more important in a modern vehicle. My previous older vehicles were from the 1950s and needed 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter. Rebuilding the engines was a given because you need hardened valve seats to withstand unleaded fuel. In a 2002, some oil loss is not a death sentence like unleaded fuel damage is to a 1950s engine.
It's amazing that a VQ35DE delivers 255 horsepower with only six cylinders in a 214 CID engine compared with only 188 horsepower in a 1958 Chevrolet 283 CID V8.
I have only owned my Maxima for a couple of months. Most of my driving has been making a couple of 500 mile round trips between Austin and Piedras Negras so far.
If it runs good just keep topping off the oil. I use Supertech since the oil is consumed so fast. I've had my 02 6 speed since December of 2012 with 175,000 I'm now at 312,XXX and she runs like a champ. I don't baby her either. only reoccurring issue is throw out bearing that go bad. when that happens I just drop the tranny and put in a new one and clutch disc while I'm at it. I plan to do a 7th gen engine swap just for the fact that she has kept me out of a car payment for so long, she deserves it.
Last edited by uptownsamcv; 05-24-2022 at 09:45 AM.
If it runs good just keep topping off the oil. I use Supertech since the oil is consumed so fast. I've had my 02 6 speed since December of 2012 with 175,000 I'm now at 312,XXX and she runs like a champ. I don't baby her either. only reoccurring issue is throw out bearing that go bad. when that happens I just drop the tranny and put in a new one and clutch disc while I'm at it. I plan to do a 7th gen engine swap just for the fact that she has kept me out of a car payment for so long, she deserves it.
What do you suppose causes the throw out bearing issue? I noticed that the throw out bearing that comes with an Exedy clutch kit is made in China. I bought a US made throw out bearing from https://clutchxperts.com/ .
I have no idea why they keep going bad. the three that went bad were OEM Nissan. last time one went bad I installed an SKF brand throw out bearing than last December I went with a National brand one that I installed when I installed H-LSD along with JWT flywheel and M-Pact 350Z clutch disc and pressure plate.
What you say makes sense. I will likely wait 3 or 4 years to have the engine swap done. It's a rust-free Texas car with 138,000 miles on it. The market undervalues these cars. Try to find a fully functional 6 Speed, 6 Cylinder vehicle for under $10K. By fully functional, I mean something that can can be driven with confidence and is not an eyesore. I work remotely and HR authorized my work from Mexico request, so staying near where the work is being done is not an issue. I got my paint and A/C work done in Piedras Negras, right across the border from Eagle Pass, Texas. The car can already be driven with confidence as long as I keep the oil checked and dump in a quart every thousand miles. After reading this and other forums, it seems the thing to do is look for low cost ways to mitigate but not end the oil loss. I paid $3K for the car and have spent about $8K in body and mechanical parts and labor, mostly parts.
I notice that most people here get at least 200,000 miles out of their car, sometimes even 300,000. It will take me 5 years to get to 200,000 miles.
I have my 02 max 3.5 for 8 months put 30 k on. So far, there’s 330 000 Kim’s on it, no rust underneath at all., or on the body., I was concerned on oil consumption, but I’m only adding a quart or so every 4000 Kim’s then soon there after get the oil changed., and I drive car hard I have to say I do! All highway though, and I love my maxima., just wanted to say this was a good read thanks I learned something today!.. cheers
Sounds really exciting bringing $3K to $4K into Guadalajara to pay for it! Good luck with that!
We don't need no stinking warranties!
You lose 6 to 10 percent converting cash. Some credit unions offer a 1% foreign transaction fee debit card. Places that cater to foreign (non-Mexican) car enthusiasts are organized enough to take plastic. Otherwise, you pay on a daily basis with money withdrawn in Pesos at an ATM so that you don't carry too much cash around at once. Many of the restored cars that you see at USA car shows were done in Mexico. That being said: The discussion in this thread reminded me that I'm restoring a 2002 Maxima that will never be worth more than $10K (if that) versus a 1950s Chevrolet. However, a 2002 Maxima is a world more reliable. It's going to be like a dream not needing to rebuild my power steering pump four times per year and rebuilding the generator twice per year.
Regarding warranties, that's why you micromanage and check on the car every single day. Also, most USA car shops repair shops require you to pay DOUBLE for parts if you want a warranty.
i will say a good shop will warranty their work or at least stand by it and make it right if it isn't right at no cost. but finding a good shop is the issue, theres a lot of garbage out there, and also a lot of consumers/drivers that don't know the difference or care.
you are into cars enough, why don't you just get a good engine and do it your self?
It only takes 2 partial days by yourself to do 2nd/3rd gen VQ swap. One to pull and prep new engine and next day to drop it in and do fluids. No rust makes it even faster.
Delete PCV.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 05-26-2022 at 11:10 AM.
i will say a good shop will warranty their work or at least stand by it and make it right if it isn't right at no cost. but finding a good shop is the issue, theres a lot of garbage out there, and also a lot of consumers/drivers that don't know the difference or care.
you are into cars enough, why don't you just get a good engine and do it your self?
Is it a huge leap to go from doing your own work on a 1958 Chevrolet to a 2002 Maxima? All those wires plus the front wheel drive is really intimidating.
Is it a huge leap to go from doing your own work on a 1958 Chevrolet to a 2002 Maxima? All those wires plus the front wheel drive is really intimidating.
Cant speak on going from working on 50’s vehicles to more modern ones, but Id imagine you have a leg up over someone who is learning from scratch. At the end of the day, its still the same premise of fuel + spark + compression = vroom. Instead of mechanical/pressure driven engine management, most things are controlled electronically instead; fuel injectors and mass airflow sensor instead of a carb, ignition coils + crank and cam sensors instead of a dizzy, so on and so forth. Electronic engine management may seem more complex but when you realize its accomplishing the same goal but with more precision and clever engineering, I think you are going to find it much more straight forward than you think it is. You sound like you are mechanically inclined, so Im sure once you start picking up how the sensors do what they do and why, youll really enjoy how ingenious the designs are. Its not nuclear physics, it really is pretty straightforward stuff once you get a taste for it.
There is an enormous amount of resources available online for these cars, just an endless wealth of information for any job or question you could have - very little frontier left to be discovered, someone somewhere has done it already and the internet has made it possible for you and I to read along and learn how. I didnt really have anyone to teach me anything beyond changing my oil all those years ago when I first picked up a wrench, and now I can confidently say I could manage just about any job thrown at me, all from teaching myself from internet resources like this forum. If i could teach myself how to swap a motor in my backyard parked over a few sheets of 3/4” plywood, Im sure you could too. Always remember that theres tons of salts on this forum willing to help people learn (as long as they are willing to help themselves, lol) so even if you get stuck, you always have a help line.
Cant speak on going from working on 50’s vehicles to more modern ones, but Id imagine you have a leg up over someone who is learning from scratch. At the end of the day, its still the same premise of fuel + spark + compression = vroom. Instead of mechanical/pressure driven engine management, most things are controlled electronically instead; fuel injectors and mass airflow sensor instead of a carb, ignition coils + crank and cam sensors instead of a dizzy, so on and so forth. Electronic engine management may seem more complex but when you realize its accomplishing the same goal but with more precision and clever engineering, I think you are going to find it much more straight forward than you think it is. You sound like you are mechanically inclined, so Im sure once you start picking up how the sensors do what they do and why, youll really enjoy how ingenious the designs are. Its not nuclear physics, it really is pretty straightforward stuff once you get a taste for it.
There is an enormous amount of resources available online for these cars, just an endless wealth of information for any job or question you could have - very little frontier left to be discovered, someone somewhere has done it already and the internet has made it possible for you and I to read along and learn how. I didnt really have anyone to teach me anything beyond changing my oil all those years ago when I first picked up a wrench, and now I can confidently say I could manage just about any job thrown at me, all from teaching myself from internet resources like this forum. If i could teach myself how to swap a motor in my backyard parked over a few sheets of 3/4” plywood, Im sure you could too. Always remember that theres tons of salts on this forum willing to help people learn (as long as they are willing to help themselves, lol) so even if you get stuck, you always have a help line.
Give it a go!
i wouldn't have my car around daily driving for 15 years, and not have it the way it is if it wasn't for all this information, and 98% is from this website and the nice friends and people who like to share their knowledge and experiences.
NisFormance in North Carolina quoted me $5,500 (including price of the engine that they supply) to put in a low mileage, THIRD generation VQ35DE (post 2016) including a warranty for parts and labor. It looks like I will be visiting North Carolina towards the end of the year.
20% Lucas oil stabilizer + 10w-40 oil slowed down my oil consumption quite a bit. No problems with the thicker oil and the variable timing components yet.
20% Lucas oil stabilizer + 10w-40 oil slowed down my oil consumption quite a bit. No problems with the thicker oil and the variable timing components yet.
You won't. 20w50 is used in VQs built for boost. I ran 5w50 in one of the G35s.
It does seem to affect intake timing, though. It seems to delay the operation at high RPM (lotta pressure), so when tuning I had to tweak the table to reach the values I wanted. It kept overshooting. But that doesn't matter N/A (I was tuning for S/C).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 08-16-2022 at 07:39 PM.
Unless the oil consumption is fouling plugs, just keep adding oil. Its a lot cheaper. I had a 1974 Z/28 that suddenly started using a quart of 60w oil every 50 miles. I bought it used, based on the licence plate being L88 Z28, pretty sure the car was raced with a 427 while the original L82 350 sat in a garage. Even in Arizona you can get moisture in the engine. I had it about a year and it suddenly started using an incredible amount of oil. But going to 60w and using spark plug extenders, it didn't foul plugs and was still stout enough to easily beat C4 Corvettes. And fog the area for mosquitoes.
i use conventional 5w30(live in north east) and just check oil weekly. if I go away on a trip with highway mileage and speeds (more burn) I bring oil with me and check it before the drive back home, and after returning. at most its sometimes down a 1/2 court or so after a +150mile trip. but if I just go to work and stay around home (no highways) at most i only loose +1/4 quart every 2 weeks (+220 miles)
i am at 289k miles been daily driven since June 2007
also i have a small leak at the lower main seal, so how much I am loosing there who knows, definitely not much.
5w30 has been my go to in the high mileage as well, i also noticed way less burning with less highway driving.
yea just set a weekly time to check the oil and stick too it, I check mine once a week around the weekends, if I drive over 2 hours to a destination I bring oil with me and check it before I drive back home (again highway trips burn more)
i agree, longer highway trips burn more oil especially if your doing 80 and above. I usually check oil before leaving and check when i get to my destination, last thing anyone wants is for the engine to lock up from oil starvation on the highway.
I am now at 320,000 miles and I'm getting a little engine knock above 3,000 RPM. I'll be dropping in a 7th or 8th gen engine sooner than expected, the paint job and new carpet can wait....
I am now at 320,000 miles and I'm getting a little engine knock above 3,000 RPM. I'll be dropping in a 7th or 8th gen engine sooner than expected, the paint job and new carpet can wait....
05-22-2022, 06:46 AM
