ZCarlizzle1

I have a 2003 max and sometimes when I drive it just shuts off but cuts right back on most of the time. I had already changed the alternator once a couple of months ago with a high output one to hopefully prevent the issue in the future. It fixed it for a while but recently it is starting to do it again. So my question is, is there anything I could have missed that could be causing it? or is it even the alternator that is the issue. I also wanna add that I realize it is a voltage regulator issue more than likely but that was replaced with the new alternator after it finally quit working.

----edit: I also have no check engine lights or any lights on my dash. When I replaced the alternator it was one from an ebay seller with good reviews and a year warranty(ik ik ebay is bad). I have had cps sensors replaced a few months ago when It wouldn't start after I had valve covers replaced.
-----edit 2: So it turns out that oil is leaking into the connector on the alternator itself. I think that it is coming from the timing chain cover since both valve covers are brand new and a shop installed them. I was thinking of putting some heat shrink around the connector to keep oil from getting in but I am unsure if it will fully work and I am also unsure of how to fully clean the connectors to get rid of the issue temporarily until I can afford to have a shop do the timing chain cover. (I normally do the work myself unless I think it is above what I am confident doing but I don't really want to risk messing up timing chain things)

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I would start by checking all connections related to the alternator, since your issue is intermittent.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

if the car shuts off super randomly, and if it progressively occurs more often over time, you may want to check CPS sensors, they can shut the car off with no notice or codes.
and being able to start up right after the incident also points to CPS. if it was an alternator, you would probably have trouble starting it after the occasion.

ZCarlizzle1

I already replaced that sensor a couple of months ago before I replaced the alternator the first time. If it ends up being an alternator issue again I'm just going to get a 370 amp one from jsalternators.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

did you use OEM CPS sesnors though? and what alternator did you put int? under 1 year old alternator... seems weird that could be the issue any more

TallTom

There are three CPS sensors. Replace them with Hitachi brand.

ZCarlizzle1

Yep. I used oem ones. a shop did those for me. It is doing the exact same thing it was doing with the last alternator, but the old one got oil in the connector somehow. I have fixed all of the oil leaks and there doesn't seem to be any oil or anything in the new one but I have no clue how it happened last time to prevent it again other than fixing the oil leaks that I have already fixed

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

do you know what brand the shop used? it easily could be CPS if it wasn't oem or hitachi

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

A higher output alty wont fix anything. Start with cps and the harnesses also check the sub harness for the alty you can get one off if ebay or amazon.most of the time a bad alty will give throttle surging at idle and if the diodes in it are going bad youll have a whine and it will not trigger cel and batt lights until its output drops below 20a which is different then when the regulator goes and the car sees a drop in voltage below 9v which triggers the warning lights.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i agree ^^

ZCarlizzle1

do you know anywhere to get that harness for a decent price? or is about 70 or 80 bucks right?