yellow_cake

I have a 2003 that now has a significant valve stem seal leak. The car is otherwise in good shape and I'd like to keep it for a year or two. The plan is to replace the seals with the head still in the car.

​​​​​​I've been driving the car with the leak for several months as it progressively got worse. Obviously this means I will have developed lots of carbon deposits as now the car pings quite a bit in the dreaded 2500rpm range under load (with premium gas).


So here's where I'm looking for suggestions from those with experience:
While at this point I'm not considering a thorough rebuild, just some minimal work to extend the life of the car. Question is, should I remove the heads in order to do a proper cleanup of the carbon in the combustion chamber?

I ask because even before the active valve stem seal leak, I had the dreaded ping at 2500rpm under load (only slight, on hot days only).
But now it pings as bad (if not worse) as it did previously when someone else would accidentally put in regular gas.

I'm just seeing if it's worthwhile to spend a little time and get the carbon issue under control. I doubt the gas additives would have a big impact right away given the build up I probably have.

I have a bit of time to spare and will be doing the work myself. Also, I have a 2nd car so I don't mind if this one is down for a little while.
​

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Mines been doing that for years and I'm going to pull the heads do some upgraded valves, valve stem seals, head studs, and Premium Head Gaskets, and maybe a little bit of port work. You can order that JWT tool to make the job easier.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You think hot spots on the pistons are causing it? Just fill the cylinders with a strong detergent and let it soak.

yellow_cake

Do you plan on pulling the engine or doing it in car.
Thanks for the tool suggestion. I might consider that or DIY the factory style valve spring compressor.
​​​​
That's what I'm thinking as the pinging has gotten worse along with the leak.
I think I might take your advise. I put a few hours in today and I'd rather wrap up quickly.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I use paint thinner, b/c it's cheap and has some lubiness to it (otherwise you'll need to suck out the detergent and spray some lube inside to crank without damaging the cylinder/rings).

As far as the leak....yeah, not **** you can do, but it typically doesn't get any worse with age once it happens. Mix up some 50/50 blend of 40 and 50 weight oil if you're not comfortable using all 50. It should slow it a bit you're using 30 weight.
Last VQ I swapped in had the valves absolutely soaked and sludged even though it was in good shape otherwise. **** happens :/

yellow_cake

Yeah, I'm thinking of making my own "homebrew" mixture of diesel fuel & transmission fluid as I already have those two items on hand. Let it soak for a couple of days and suck it out.

Aside from that, I'll continuously use some PEA based fuel additive for the next several fill ups, and periodically after that. I might also do the "seafoam" method of cleaning where you spray combustion chamber cleaner into the intake manifold while idling.

BTW, thanks for steering me away from pulling the heads. After getting the outer timing cover off, I'm definitely not interested in removing the upper oil pan + inner timing cover to get at the heads.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yep, if you're gonna do that just pull the engine, but at that point I'd 2nd gen swap it.

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

Yeah like Korn says do a send gen swap cause by the time you go out and buy all the oem gaskets and parts to rebuild your can get a $600 engine and $200 swap kit and still have money left over.one thing you didnt think about in cost is your going to have to replace chain and tensioners during the rebuild and thats about $400 by itself unless you buy the cheap aftermarket parts and risk the material coming off the tensioners.