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I copypasta a lot, no big deal. Directory paths, or course, but no spaces in the filenames, ok cool, did not know I couldn't do that. Can't believe I didn't see the omitted SH, I copypastad that filename too
diag_os_gethrt() resolution <= 0us, avg ~0us
diag_os_getms() resolution: ~16ms.
Calibrating timing, this will take a few seconds...
Calibration done.
nisprog v1.03-5dfd791+
interface is now DUMB
Note concerning generic (dumb) interfaces : there are additional
options which can be set with "set dumbopts". By default
"K-line only" and "MAN_BREAK" are set.
nisprog: Type HELP for a list of commands
nisprog: Type SCAN to start ODBII Scan
nisprog: Then use MONITOR to monitor real-time data
nisprog: **** IMPORTANT : this is beta software ! Use at your own risk.
nisprog: **** Remember, "debug all -1" displays all debugging info.
interface is now DUMB
Note concerning generic (dumb) interfaces : there are additional
options which can be set with "set dumbopts". By default
"K-line only" and "MAN_BREAK" are set.
port set to: \\.\COM3
dumbopts set to: 72
testerid: using 0xFC
destaddr: using 0x10
now using 7055.
Must be connected normally (nc command) !
Available commands are :
npconn
npdisc
npconf <paramname> <value>
setdev <device_no>
gk
setkeys <sid27_key> [<sid36_key>]
kspeed <new_speed>
runkernel <file>
stopkernel
watch <addr>
initk
dumpmem <file> <start> <#_of_bytes> [eep]
flverif <file>
flblock <romfile> <blockno> [Y]
flrom <romfile> [<orig_rom>]
npt [testnum]
log <filename>
stoplog
set <parameter value>
test <command [params]>
diag <command [params]>
vw <command [params]
850 <command [params]>
dyno <command [params]
debug [parameter = debug]
source <file>
help [command]
exit
Try "help <command>" for further help
nisprog: Settings loaded from nisprog.ini
Using best choice, SID27 key=5414CDA6. Use "setkeys" to change if required.
nisprog> setdev 1
now using 7055.
nisprog> runkernel C:\nisprog\npk_SH7055_35.bin
Using 4056 byte payload, padding with garbage to 4064 (0x0FE0) bytes.
SID27:SUXXESS !!
SID 34 80 done.
SID36 block 0x007E/0x007E done
SID 36 done.
sid37: sending 0x37 0x24 0x5B
SID 37 done.
SID BF done.
ECU now running from RAM ! Disabling periodic keepalive;
Connected to kernel: SH7055_35-f59d260
You may now use kernel-specific commands.
nisprog> flrom C:\nisprog\6y314_edited.bin
MY KNOCK IS GONE GONE GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
I have been chasing this issue since February 19, 2019, right after swap first start!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is like, the best day of my life! I truly owe you one! I KNEW it was a lean condition! You have no idea how happy this makes me!
Went for a test drive, stomped on the pedal right away as much as I could before running out of space, then turning around and did it again, NO KNOCK! ECU is cutting fuel at the newly-set 7200 limit and coming back at 7000 RPM, as it should, the knock is gone, and there is a slightly perceptible "gain?" I suppose you could say? Could be psychological.
I'm just ecstatic! I absolutely owe you one! Short of a long trip and a dyno tune, there was just nothing left to do. No one here in Tampa that I talked to knew would or knew anyone that would touch my "non-tunable" ECU. Reaching out with this thread was my last attempt at dealing with this!
Thank you, thank you, thank you, for hanging in there and excusing my ignorance with the order of operations and other dumb mistakes, again, first time I've ever even touched something like this!
This is truly great! Now we'll see how my MPG's do
So... What other cool stuff can I do with this ROM??????
Would be nice if I could adjust my upshift set points higher to take advantage of that top-end power-band/increased rev-limiter.....
You'll be running extra rich on the bottom end, which will make it difficult to start.
First ones the hardest. Now you can tweak to your hearts content. You can use the fuel compensation map to tweak specific load conditions. (Startup is upper right area of the map)
I will look at that. I need startup to be optimal, as I am scheduled to have the latest Compustar T13 Pro alarm and remote start system installed in two weeks. Took forever to be released. It's been paid for and discussed with my installer over two months ago!
So quick follow-up. My 20 mile, 30 minute commute to work this evening was a bit more "spirited" than usual, without seemingly much more pedal effort. There's definitely more fuel in the mix! Thing is, and I won't know for certain until I fill up and do the math on empty, but I think this thing is drinking like a fish now! Will be fun to play with.
So definitely a "Solved" successful thread! Thanks again freezer, and all who chimed in!
I'd be curious how much effect the update to 6y314 had. Pull the extra fuel back out and see how it is.
It'll definitely be drinking more during open loop operation. And your cluster is going to be off 20% compared to what it was before. (You can update that to get it closer)
With a new pump I'm really surprised you'd need to add fuel. The factory tune is set up rich.
Was thinking about loading the stock 6y314 myself and checking. Maybe tomorrow. How would I just put startup fuel back to stock? I only wanted this at the upper end.
Take stock ROM and add whatever % you want to the fuel compensation table in every cell above whatever RPM you want it to add fuel. Your original post was 15% everywhere and 20% top end. My solution was the simplest (least changes) way to do accomplish that.
Nevermind about the cluster economy, it'll be as accurate as stock was. If you change injectors that will make it screwy. (That's when K is usually modified)
So I can just modify the purple, blue and red-ish/orange cells to lean out startup? Does running slightly richer than the already rich values with the stock ROM have any negative effect to startup? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to cause any problems to me in any kind of practical sense.
Your original post was 15% everywhere and 20% top end.)
Right, forgot I said that. The original point of this entire exercise was to eliminate the knock. I threw in 15% everywhere because why not, while we're at it, if it was indeed possible. Glad we had a positive outcome for both!
Those are indeed the ones you'd modify for startup. The ECU pours in fuel during cold start especially so that's when it'll be most difficult. Extra fuel washes cylinder walls and ends up in the oil pan until it is vaporized.
As far as normal operation, I'd datalog your LTFT values to see how rich you are just while cruising. If it tends to hang around 85% I'd reduce K and mTP100 back towards stock values.
I stumbled across RomRaider logging, but I'll have to do some research on exactly how. I'll let you know what initial LTFT is and final adjustment values targeting 85% during efficiency driving. What a great tool without needing to install an aftermarket AFR system. Couldn't imagine it wasn't possible to read what data the car is already using with it's own sensors to make adjustments.
I stumbled across RomRaider logging, but I'll have to do some research on exactly how. I'll let you know what initial LTFT is and final adjustment values targeting 85% during efficiency driving. What a great tool without needing to install an aftermarket AFR system. Couldn't imagine it wasn't possible to read what data the car is already using with it's own sensors to make adjustments.
RR logging unfortunately requires an investment for a J2534 (Tactrix) cable. You can log with your existing cable and Nissan Data Scan 2, or use your smartphone with a Bluetooth OBD2 device and NDS2 or Torque.
RR logging unfortunately requires an investment for a J2534 (Tactrix) cable. You can log with your existing cable and Nissan Data Scan 2, or use your smartphone with a Bluetooth OBD2 device and NDS2 or Torque.
What's so special about a Tactrix cable? All these things are are FTDI with OBDII protocol.
Probably an ATmega chip or something to handle vehicle-specific protocols or something. Gotta be firmware out there to flash an el-cheapo ebay cable or something.
J2534 was already implemented in RR Code and is much easier to handle (1 driver) than the crapshoot of China made FTDI drivers and cables. No timing issues to deal with (looks like you dodged a bullet there).
Rather than the approach you took, could you have accomplished the same thing using a VAFCII?
Except for $20 and not having to hack anything into the harness. He wouldn't have gotten the ROM update either, which is likely contributing to some improvement. Now if he really wanted power he can adjust anything defined for the ROM.
It's not all that hard. I knew nothing about this stuff when I started either, it's a learning curve with RomRaider definitions, and nisprog to be sure, but it's well worth the effort.
This will end up helping a lot of people get over the hump with flashing ROMs.
FWIW, the best way to tune fuel is a 2 part process. The first part is getting the closed loop, partial throttle, fuel in check by getting the LTFTs as close to 0 as reasonably possible. Log as many steady load/rpm/speed data points as possible, tweak, then repeat. But, you're not done. The next step is open loop, WOT tuning which absolutely requires a WBO2 sensor to tune correctly. You could be running 15.0 at the top of your rev range, not know and degrade the engine over time. Knock sensors aren't infallible and not all knock is audible. These also aren't low comp, under-powered 80s engines. You could also be running 10.0 and missing out on 20 or so hp somewhere in your rev range. Following through tuning both partial and WOT (with a WBO2) is the complete solution.
As weird as it is, some people skip getting the fuel trims in check and go right to WOT tuning with a wideband, which skips a step. This is also bad because WOT fueling can be impacted by your fuel trims. If you don't get your LTFTs leveled out first, they could change as they figure themselves out over time and ultimately change any WOT tuning you did up front. Getting your partial throttle fueling ironed out is probably 80% of the work and serves as a base for WOT tuning.
I just wanted to throw that in for anyone reading this. At the end of the day, it's your car and you can accept whatever risk you want. It's just good to spell out the complete process for fueling whether you go through all the motions or not.
As weird as it is, some people skip getting the fuel trims in check and go right to WOT tuning with a wideband, which skips a step. This is also bad because WOT fueling can be impacted by your fuel trims. If you don't get your LTFTs leveled out first, they could change as they figure themselves out over time and ultimately change any WOT tuning you did up front. Getting your partial throttle fueling ironed out is probably 80% of the work and serves as a base for WOT tuning.
I have to disagree with you here. It is very rare that the LTFTs ever deviate from 100 in open loop. I've managed to do it in my car once, but I have customized my ROM to do some very special things. Even my 07 Titan with factory widebands doesn't do any learning in open loop.
While I do aim for LTFTs close to 100, I don't spend time tuning the closed loop area anymore. The ECU is quite capable of managing 14.7 AFR here, and there are environmental conditions that can make this move up to 10% anyway. IMO it's not worth the effort, and my wideband agrees.
Day 2, no issues other than yep, it's drinking like a fish! Dumpin that fuel. I can almost hear the injectors whooshing away when I get on the gas! Gas gauge needle has moved notably further than before on a given day with the same mileage traveled.
Looks like I'll need to start working on a fuel compensation table. No problem, I had planned on it anyway. Now that the flashing process is down pat, any suggestions or tips before I start editing a table? I want:
1. Eliminate knock up high
2. Optimum engine start conditions
3. Some added midrange torque would be nice
4. Efficient LTFT
I have to disagree with you here. It is very rare that the LTFTs ever deviate from 100 in open loop. I've managed to do it in my car once, but I have customized my ROM to do some very special things. Even my 07 Titan with factory widebands doesn't do any learning in open loop.
While I do aim for LTFTs close to 100, I don't spend time tuning the closed loop area anymore. The ECU is quite capable of managing 14.7 AFR here, and there are environmental conditions that can make this move up to 10% anyway. IMO it's not worth the effort, and my wideband agrees.
I'm not saying the O2 and fuel trims have the ability to actively change WOT fueling while you're in open loop. I'm saying the WOT algorithm for determining fueling can use previously established LT fuel trims along with the open loop WOT tables. Basically if your STFTs are all over the place and LTFTs haven't leveled out yet, your effective WOT tuning can change over time as closed loop O2 feedback figures it out.
From my experience across a few platforms, spending time tuning closed loop tuning it worth it to get the tune to be more predictable across all load scenarios. I do think this school of thought is more applicable on NBO2 sensor cars though. More modern WBO2 cars are better at compensating. On my 07 G35s (also factory wideband) my LTFTs deviation was under 10% summer to winter. That was with BBMAFs among other things.
Looks like it isn't possible to adjust shift points or flash TCU's, or at least I haven't been able to find anything demonstrating such capability. Too bad. Renders the increased rev limit useless with AT cars. I saw that shifting in manual mode will get you there, but that's not the solution I was hoping for.
I'm at about 160mi and half a tank right now, so perhaps the mileage hit I was expecting may not be as bad as I thought it would. Will check back soon!
Well, there ya have it. Despite a 20% fuel increase across the board, I still managed to squeeze a little over 300mi out of a tank, which is what I was averaging before. On top of that, this tank was run through with slightly above average Lead-Foot usage as I was randomly making pulls and testing for knock at WOT. Knock is still gone, however, and I thank you so much, freezer!
Looks like it isn't possible to adjust shift points or flash TCU's, or at least I haven't been able to find anything demonstrating such capability. Too bad. Renders the increased rev limit useless with AT cars. I saw that shifting in manual mode will get you there, but that's not the solution I was hoping for.
It's possible..... But ...
The amount of money you will have to spend to achieve this will probably make you pass out.
Unfortunately I will head down this path once the race car is running because I will be competing with the vehicle and can't afford inconsistency. I will use a shift light for the first half of the year but save up for a standalone TCM down the line.
There is the shift_fast mod but this is a track only modification and will require you to switch out the harness between using the mod and not using the mod.
The amount of money you will have to spend to achieve this will probably make you pass out.
Unfortunately I will head down this path once the race car is running because I will be competing with the vehicle and can't afford inconsistency. I will use a shift light for the first half of the year but save up for a standalone TCM down the line.
There is the shift_fast mod but this is a track only modification and will require you to switch out the harness between using the mod and not using the mod.
Why not just put a switch on the rev limiter wire from the back of the speedo
If your AT get a suprastick module
01-21-2021, 11:03 AM
