Noladol

I need to replace the original DE in my Maxima *sigh*, but not willing to go with an HR (yes, I would love to!) due to money and needing it to be as plug and play as possible. Which year is the latest VQ35DE I can use in my Maxima being complete plug and play and not having to change anything else? It obviously doesn't have to be from a Maxima either. Any help is much appreciated. Thank you!

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

2008, any FWD VQ35 should work. I would like to note that just because they are newer, doesnt mean they cost more. The 09-14’ motors when I was in the market for one were far cheaper than the older motors and had lower miles to boot. Just something to consider.

Noladol

I heard that some newer VQ35's were a little different and needed some brackets and whatnot to work with a 2003.

What year did you end up going with for your engine? Was it complete plug and play? Thanks!

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

Buy the newer vq and the kit from nisformance. Its a easy swap and cost less

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

02-08 are PnP. 09-14 are whats considered the “HR” swap and require some minor modifications. If you are capable of swapping a motor, you will have zero issues whatsoever, the actual swapping is much more difficult than any of the extra steps required for using the newer motors.

I used a 2014 motor. For the record I had zero experience pulling a motor previously, and was able to do it in my backyard on top of some plywood. You basically just find anything connected to the motor, and disconnect it. It aint rocket science. My one caveat is that youll want to take some tape and paper and labe every electrical connector/sensor that you unplug because by the time you get to the point where you are putting it back together, youll have forgotten what goes where. You could use a grease pen to mark the connectors and just match up the marks you made. Another useful strategy is to have a big sheet of cardboard, and jam all of your unfastened bolts through it, and then take a sharpie and write next to the bolts what they belong to. Itll help give you a sense of what order to put things back as well as you can see the progression on the cardboard.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Most connectors only go in one spot and just screw the bolts back where they cam out of. I never label anything or organize bolts.

2013+ engine, so you don't have to **** with the gallery gaskets. They're cheaper than any 1st gen DE you can buy (300 bucks lol). And the DEs will be trashed, so forget about it and don't waste your time/money.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

How much do you mean that for the trivial stuff? For instance, if you get an L31 or A34 engine the oil cooler hard lines are different from the A33. Or if you got an engine with EGR? Is that a something you do not want to deal with?

Noladol

Thanks for all the information guys I really do appreciate it.

So, I should use 2013+ and get the nisformance kit so it will bolt right in? And $300? Can you tell me where that is? Thanks!

Noladol

What do you mean by trashed?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

02-03s (not that you can find one) are eaten up from precats and 6th gen engines have bad chain guides. Plus, they're all going to be high mileage/worn out (no one changes oil) or very expensive.

2nd gen VQs from altimas are dirt cheap and you only need the cam signal inverter. The rest is is just a few bolts/washers to make it work. Don't forget to gut your cats... that's why the engine is dead to begin with.

Noladol

Do the Altimas suffer from the chain guide problem?

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Same motor in the same layout so yeah, I would count on it. Try using car-part.com to find motors, I got super lucky and found a 2014 motor with less than 10k miles on it for $1000 which I consider a great price. For something between 50k-100k youll probably pay half that, at most. Nissan put the VQ35 in practically everything. They are arguably one of the most plentiful motors out there today.

cdoublejj

what's this all about? the last thread i read about a newer swap had some wiring and stuff going for sensors and stuff. i guess unless you swapped in the old sensors and or heads?

apsvy

I would probably take pictures as well.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Its the “HR” swap. All that needs to be addressed is brackets for the pulleys, some grinding of an unused mounting tab, signal inverters for the cam sensors, and slight modification to the camshaft signal plates. More or less lol. Theres a gazillion threads and even some youtube videos that cover it extensively. I can assure you, as someone who aint the brightest bulb of the bunch and who never previously did any sort of swap, its very straight forward. The only real obstacle is having a work area and the equipment (engine hoist, engine stand, handtools) that are required. If you can follow instructions and put together a desk from Ikea, you can do an HR swap.

The whole point of it, btw, is for the more-flowy heads, and the ability to push the redline up to around 7100RPM safely and without requiring internal work. With full bolt-ons and tune, you can get 300WHP/TQ, which considering stock is around 215WHP, is an absolutely ridiculous amount of extra power. One also needs to take into account that those numbers are only peak numbers - you get more torque all throughout the powerband, not just up top. Best way I can describe it (after tuning, of course) is cruising the neighborhood in 4th gear feels like how it would feel in 3rd gear pre-tune/pre-swap. Big shjt eating grin on my face every single time I drive lol, just torque for days.

SupraLance

I have rod knock less than a week after gutting the cats, so I'm looking at a 2013 Altima engine. The nisformance kit is backordered and I can't get a reply on how long the wait is. Do I really only need the cam signal inverter (not the brackets etc?), and is there info somewhere on how to rig this myself if I can't get the part or the kit from Nisformance?