02Infinitii35

My Issue is with cylinder #3 which is the only one almost completely blocked. Any shortcuts to get back here? I heard that could remove the arm/elbow portion of the upper intake. Any suggestions, or other easier access?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Nope. The last two plugs are blocked by the plenum. It has to come off.

sanford7575

To my knowledge, there is no shortcut to the back plugs without removing the intake plenum. This job isn't bad if you follow the instructions in the link below. Great instructions and pictures allowed me to do this job pretty quickly (https://www.my4dsc.com/replace-spark-plugs-coil-packs/). My advice is to change all plugs and coils at the same time and to change out the valve cover gaskets while you're in there (btw... you're showing some wetness in that area anyway).

SubwayVQ

My first time doing the plugs, I didn’t fully remove the intake. Just freed it up and moved it off to the side. But that was my first time and I was cautious. My second time around, I had it off in under 20 minutes.

02Infinitii35

If that's the case I'm driving it till it explodes. Its no way Im going threw all of this to get to three measly plugs. Its fkin LUDICROUS! Certified mechanics want damn near the entire value of the car to change the back plugs. Just sick.

02Infinitii35

Thanks, but Ive been directed to that same scenario 4 times n three different websites, and the guy that did that even stated how ridiculously hard it was.

02Infinitii35

Oh great. did you only remove the top portion? or did you lean it like this

maxinout93

Its very simple to remove the plenum it looks hard at first, thats what i thought. All you need is a 12mm socket/wrench, and pliers to remove several hose clamps and a screw driver. sometimes its best to remove to 2 12mm screws on back of the plenum first then the 4 or 5 bolts in the front. take the vias loose, unclamp the pcv, and brake booster hose on the back, and the throttle air hose, but dont touch the throttle plate inside. and it basically lifts up and gives u more room. I never take it completly off because of the coolant lines under the throttle body i dont want to mess with. I just move it out of my way enough.

02Infinitii35

The main thing i am trying to avoid is messing with the coolant lines. Im just confused. So are you saying you undue the connectors and lift it forward from the back?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

It's not that hard at all. It looks intimidating but there's nothing complicated about it. The only water lines are two small ones going to the Throttle body. They come off easily and wont spill more than a few drops of coolant if any. There's literally nothing to worry about with the coolant lines.

It's fine to tilt it like the pic you posted.

It is a good idea to do the rear VC gasket while you're in there.

Where are you located? Maybe there's a member near by who will do it for you on the cheap.

02Infinitii35

Im in l.a. Cheap is impossible here. Just a few years ago certified mechanics forced a new CA law. Now they can sue Autozone or anyone that advertises free diagnostics, which is why I have my own OBD scanner. The mechanics want to charge me more than what I payed for my scanner to basically do the same thing. They wont go by what I have diagnosed it with. They have to plug in theirs which cost 100$. And any mobile mechanic advertising "even on craigslist" for free diagnostics can be sued.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I hear you there. Living in Florida I take certain freedoms for granted.

I'm curious, why are you so worried about the coolant lines?

02Infinitii35

Well this is my first nissan brand. My old northstar would overheat for no reason after doing a few thing under the hood. But besides that the main issue is all the work when im not 100% for sure that its the coil and plug. It could be the fuel injector #3 instead. A year ago it would only idle rough like this when I was low on gas.. The rough idle always went away with me restarting the car. Now its constant instead of intermediate, and doesnt go away with a restart. So I'm actually just assuming its the plug and coil on #3 Come to think of it It didn't start this until I stopped at an off brand gas station

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

These cars have very solid cooling systems. They don't have problems with air pockets or anything like that if you open them up. The TB lines are the highest point in the system so you wont lose any coolant.

How many miles on the plugs and how many on the car? I've seen where people will swap plugs but leave the hard to reach plugs in so you can end up with some really old plugs. I've worked on cars that had plugs done at a shop but the hard ones were clearly older or even different.

I'd swap all the plugs and swap the back coil with a known good one from the front. If the misfire goes away you know it was the plug. If it moves you know it's a coil and the bad one is now in the front for an easy swap.

02Infinitii35

Lol that may be why they dont require cadillac pills to be inserted in the coolant reservoir. My car has 173k, and nothing has been changed on the car since 70k, Im not even for sure if anything was changed before 70k. When i start it up and push the gas a little almost to two rpms the rough idle doesn't exist, Infact it sounds brand new when I do that. But as soon as i let off the gas then its a rough idle, car runs like it wants to turn off. Sometimes even when I start it, it just turns back off.. I know it may need back plugs and coils as well. But I have a hunch that its actually the injector causing this.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

The original plugs are rated for 100,000 so they probably weren't changed before you got it. You've most likely got some very old plugs there. That's where I would look first. 170,000 is too much on any plugs.

These cars don't seem to have a lot of problems with injectors. I almost never hear about them failing. My 02 with 230,000 and my 00 with 300,000 are on the original injectors. The 02 is on the original coils.

Removing the injectors is kind of a pain if you haven't done it before. They're going to be stuck in place and you have to kind of pull them all at once. It's a bit sketchy to do. Then you still have to get them tested for around $20 each. Maybe more in Kalifornia. It can be done but I'd avoid it if possible. It's better to go after the easiest and most obvious things first like the 170,000 mile plugs. I'd replace the seals if you are going to pull the injectors. Get the kit.

Personally, I'd try the plugs and swapping coils around before messing with the injectors. Once you remove the plenum one time it'll be easy to do again if you want to go after the injectors later.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Another question.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Having a miss or stumble that goes away with throttle input is a good sign of a vacuum leak.

02Infinitii35

not that Im aware of. I dont hear any hissing when the engine is on