Road Trip
10-21-2017, 08:58 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Road Trip
I have a 2000 Infiniti I-30 with 98,000 miles. In December, I am planning a two week trip to drive from Philadelphia to St. Louis and back. The drive is approximately 900 miles each way or a total of 1,800 miles. I have kept up on general maintenance and repairs and the car runs fine. I am not so much concerned with the mileage, but the car is 17 years old. One minute I think it's best to rent a car for the two weeks ($150 per week) and the next I think the car will be fine to drive.
I have some questions.
1. If it were you, based on the age of my I-30, would you rent a car?
2. If I drive my car, what maintenance should be done prior and what should I have the mechanic inspect?
3. The one thing that I do not recall being replace is the timing belt. Should this be done?
Any other thoughts and recommendations certainly would be appreciated.
Anovice
I have some questions.
1. If it were you, based on the age of my I-30, would you rent a car?
2. If I drive my car, what maintenance should be done prior and what should I have the mechanic inspect?
3. The one thing that I do not recall being replace is the timing belt. Should this be done?
Any other thoughts and recommendations certainly would be appreciated.
Anovice
10-21-2017, 10:21 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 432
Your car will be fine if you say normal maintenance is done. I would do an oil change before hand if one is needed soon, and make sure the coolant is good. Just do a visual inspection on suspension parts like tie rods, sway bar bushings, struts, etc. Make sure the tire pressure is where it's supposed to be and top off any other fluids.
Your car does not have a timing belt, but instead a timing chain. They never need to be replaced as long as you are good on oil changes.
Your car does not have a timing belt, but instead a timing chain. They never need to be replaced as long as you are good on oil changes.
10-21-2017, 10:40 AM
#3
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: NYC
Posts: 125
I would do the trip. and my 5.5 has +105k on the motor. Before I changed my valve cover I was losing a quart of oil every 300 miles so I always keep a close eye on the oil especially during long hauls. In addition to SubwayVQ's suggestions I would also have a couple of quarts of oil and a funnel.
10-21-2017, 02:16 PM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: The Northeast
Posts: 681
If you've kept up w/maintenance, the car should be fine for the trip. Luckily the 3.0 isn't a notorious oil burner like the 3.5.
In general, the fluids should be clean & full, tires good, wipers good, belts & hoses not cracked. I'd also jack up the front end and give all the components a good tug to see if anything's loose. If you're not comfortable, pay a trusted mechanic to get the car up on a lift and do a pre-trip inspection.
In general, the fluids should be clean & full, tires good, wipers good, belts & hoses not cracked. I'd also jack up the front end and give all the components a good tug to see if anything's loose. If you're not comfortable, pay a trusted mechanic to get the car up on a lift and do a pre-trip inspection.
10-21-2017, 02:39 PM
#5
That mileage is nothing on that car. My ex drove her 00 on a sales route that regularly took her far from home. The car had over 300,000 miles when she left and she still used it on long trips. I still have it.
I wouldn't trust the MAF if it's original. That's an easy swap.
You're probably looking at new plugs soon but I wouldn't do anything like that before a long trip if it's running fine. Things can sometimes get screwy after working on an older car.
I wouldn't trust the MAF if it's original. That's an easy swap.
You're probably looking at new plugs soon but I wouldn't do anything like that before a long trip if it's running fine. Things can sometimes get screwy after working on an older car.
10-21-2017, 05:29 PM
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 21
As long as you haven't had reliability issues in the past I wouldn't worry either. Just make sure all of our fluids are in good shape and check all of your tires (including the spare). Make sure you have roadside insurance on your policy and you can really rest easy.
10-21-2017, 05:44 PM
#7
Yep ^. Did a cross country road trip (Canada) with the 2000 back in June, no problems at that mileage.
10-22-2017, 02:33 AM
#8
HWY generates very little wear on a car. You're at high oil pressure, pretty steady load (usually), medium rpm and little suspension travel. Change oil/fluids if they're due and be worry free (which especially means transmission since no one ever does it).
The Appalachians are no match for a VQ. But if you have a sissy as 4 banger... LOL. It's hilarious watching them trying to climb, but losing speed, then zoom down at 100 mph to try to make it back up the other side.
The Appalachians are no match for a VQ. But if you have a sissy as 4 banger... LOL. It's hilarious watching them trying to climb, but losing speed, then zoom down at 100 mph to try to make it back up the other side.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-22-2017 at 02:43 AM.
10-22-2017, 09:11 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Thank you for all the great information!
I was able to check most of the car's records and based on them and some of your posts, I have a few questions and comments:
1. While not a big difference, the car now has 99,189 miles. The oil was just changed at 99,011. I have a few small trips in November and may put on a total of 1,200 miles before driving to St. Louis in December. Should I get the oil changed again before I leave or wait until I return?
2. The transmission oil looks red and clean. It has not been changed for probably 9 years now, but the car had around 55,000 miles. Should I get the transmission oil changed? If so, which brand do you recommend? I have a note that when it was changed they used "Castrol Transmax for Honda, Toyota, Nissan and other imported vehicles". How many quarts will it take as I can bring the transmission oil to the mechanic?
3. The valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, air pressure switch, plenum gasket (and maybe a few other gaskets) were replaced in December 2009 when the car had 64,678 miles.
4. The radiator was replaced August 2012 when the car had 78,469 miles. Is there any need to change the antifreeze now?
5. The high pressure power steering hose was replaced in September 2012 at 79,046 miles.
6. The R/S? axle, R/S? and L/S? lower control arms were replaced in September 2012 at 79,046 miles.
7. The struts, 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 sway bar links, 2 sway bar bushings, and 2 strut mounts were changed in October 2012 at about 79,500 miles.
8. The Alternator was replaced in March 2013 at about 81,000 miles.
9. The IACV valve was replaced in April 2013 at about 81,000 miles.
10. The spark plugs and ignition coils were changed in June 2014 at 87,344 miles.
11. The front brakes and rotors were replaced in October 2014 at 87, 866 miles.
12. The Radiator Fan Assembly was replaced in January 2015 at 90,585 miles.
13. The rear brakes and rotors were changed in December 2016 at 96,422 miles.
Anovice
I was able to check most of the car's records and based on them and some of your posts, I have a few questions and comments:
1. While not a big difference, the car now has 99,189 miles. The oil was just changed at 99,011. I have a few small trips in November and may put on a total of 1,200 miles before driving to St. Louis in December. Should I get the oil changed again before I leave or wait until I return?
2. The transmission oil looks red and clean. It has not been changed for probably 9 years now, but the car had around 55,000 miles. Should I get the transmission oil changed? If so, which brand do you recommend? I have a note that when it was changed they used "Castrol Transmax for Honda, Toyota, Nissan and other imported vehicles". How many quarts will it take as I can bring the transmission oil to the mechanic?
3. The valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, air pressure switch, plenum gasket (and maybe a few other gaskets) were replaced in December 2009 when the car had 64,678 miles.
4. The radiator was replaced August 2012 when the car had 78,469 miles. Is there any need to change the antifreeze now?
5. The high pressure power steering hose was replaced in September 2012 at 79,046 miles.
6. The R/S? axle, R/S? and L/S? lower control arms were replaced in September 2012 at 79,046 miles.
7. The struts, 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 sway bar links, 2 sway bar bushings, and 2 strut mounts were changed in October 2012 at about 79,500 miles.
8. The Alternator was replaced in March 2013 at about 81,000 miles.
9. The IACV valve was replaced in April 2013 at about 81,000 miles.
10. The spark plugs and ignition coils were changed in June 2014 at 87,344 miles.
11. The front brakes and rotors were replaced in October 2014 at 87, 866 miles.
12. The Radiator Fan Assembly was replaced in January 2015 at 90,585 miles.
13. The rear brakes and rotors were changed in December 2016 at 96,422 miles.
Anovice
10-22-2017, 01:39 PM
#11
Maintenance list is good. Tranny fluid itself is fine, but at some point I would change it to remove the metal. There's not actually a filter on these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-22-2017 at 01:49 PM.
10-22-2017, 03:11 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
Maintenance list is good. Tranny fluid itself is fine, but at some point I would change it to remove the metal. There's not actually a filter on these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
I like to use Amazon if possible because of Prime. Is this the Castol that you are referring to?
This is $5.83 per quart compared to $5.34 for the Idemitsu brand.
Anovice
10-22-2017, 03:24 PM
#13
Maintenance list is good. Tranny fluid itself is fine, but at some point I would change it to remove the metal. There's not actually a filter on these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
I wouldn't worry about anything until after you get back.
Properly done, you need 10 quarts of ATF (take off cooler return hose and pump all the old stuff out). It's very cheap on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Quarts-I...ZUmzGU&vxp=mtr
Type HP supersedes type J and I'm pretty sure this is Nissan's supplier (and multiple others like Subaru). Other ATFs work fine as well, but I doubt you can get them cheaper unless using walmart dex. Castrol import, mobil syn, dexron III or compatible with lubegard additive all work fine. I have used these.
10-22-2017, 04:16 PM
#14
For me the cheapest was actually buying the OEM ATF fluid at the dealer. I have heard bad things about transmission fluid flushes on older transmissions, since these cars have drain bolts, wouldn't it be safer to drain it, measure, fill, drive it for a week and repeat?
Drain and fill is a waste of fluid and time. You'll have to run 20 qts through it, which is about 5 or 6 drain n fills.
Don't forget about tax. Worthless *** govt doesn't deserve a penny, so if you can buy online (which is at least cheaper due to tax), then it's win/win.
I like to use Amazon if possible because of Prime. Is this the Castol that you are referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06814...2TRAX2NFM4WYCR
This is $5.83 per quart compared to $5.34 for the Idemitsu brand.
Anovice
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06814...2TRAX2NFM4WYCR
This is $5.83 per quart compared to $5.34 for the Idemitsu brand.
Anovice
OEM fluid isn't much different than dex III. It just has w/e additives nissan/jatco wanted. That's pretty much why any universal fluid that's the right viscosity will work.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-22-2017 at 04:31 PM.
Yes that is accurate.
10-23-2017, 05:25 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
You use the transmission itself to pump the fluid out
Drain and fill is a waste of fluid and time. You'll have to run 20 qts through it, which is about 5 or 6 drain n fills.
Don't forget about tax. Worthless *** govt doesn't deserve a penny, so if you can buy online (which is at least cheaper due to tax), then it's win/win.
Yes.
OEM fluid isn't much different than dex III. It just has w/e additives nissan/jatco wanted. That's pretty much why any universal fluid that's the right viscosity will work.
Drain and fill is a waste of fluid and time. You'll have to run 20 qts through it, which is about 5 or 6 drain n fills.
Don't forget about tax. Worthless *** govt doesn't deserve a penny, so if you can buy online (which is at least cheaper due to tax), then it's win/win.
Yes.
OEM fluid isn't much different than dex III. It just has w/e additives nissan/jatco wanted. That's pretty much why any universal fluid that's the right viscosity will work.
Anovice
10-23-2017, 07:19 AM
#17
I wouldn't do this before a trip though.
10-23-2017, 04:35 PM
#18
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
HWY generates very little wear on a car. You're at high oil pressure, pretty steady load (usually), medium rpm and little suspension travel. Change oil/fluids if they're due and be worry free (which especially means transmission since no one ever does it).
The Appalachians are no match for a VQ. But if you have a sissy as 4 banger... LOL. It's hilarious watching them trying to climb, but losing speed, then zoom down at 100 mph to try to make it back up the other side.
The Appalachians are no match for a VQ. But if you have a sissy as 4 banger... LOL. It's hilarious watching them trying to climb, but losing speed, then zoom down at 100 mph to try to make it back up the other side.
Last edited by maxinout93; 10-23-2017 at 04:40 PM.
10-24-2017, 03:38 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 88
1. It does not make a lot of sense to change the transmission oil by draining the plug. Too much is remaining in torque converter.
2. The only way it makes sense is to use the transmission itself to pump the fluid out. Since the transmission oil was changed about 50,000 miles ago, it may be best to wait until I return from St. Louis. I know nothing about cars and the last thing I need is a problem on the road if the mechanic did not do something right.
3. If I decide to get the transmission oil changed when I return from St. Louis, I need to ask the mechanic if he intends to replace the transmission oil by using the transmission itself to pump the fluid out or by the drain plug which will leave a lot in the torque converter. If the latter, I need to find another mechanic.
Any disagreement with this plan?
Anovice
10-24-2017, 03:41 AM
#20
Based on your posts, I am coming to a few conclusions:
1. It does not make a lot of sense to change the transmission oil by draining the plug. Too much is remaining in torque converter.
2. The only way it makes sense is to use the transmission itself to pump the fluid out. Since the transmission oil was changed about 50,000 miles ago, it may be best to wait until I return from St. Louis. I know nothing about cars and the last thing I need is a problem on the road if the mechanic did not do something right.
3. If I decide to get the transmission oil changed when I return from St. Louis, I need to ask the mechanic if he intends to replace the transmission oil by using the transmission itself to pump the fluid out or by the drain plug which will leave a lot in the torque converter. If the latter, I need to find another mechanic.
Any disagreement with this plan?
Anovice
1. It does not make a lot of sense to change the transmission oil by draining the plug. Too much is remaining in torque converter.
2. The only way it makes sense is to use the transmission itself to pump the fluid out. Since the transmission oil was changed about 50,000 miles ago, it may be best to wait until I return from St. Louis. I know nothing about cars and the last thing I need is a problem on the road if the mechanic did not do something right.
3. If I decide to get the transmission oil changed when I return from St. Louis, I need to ask the mechanic if he intends to replace the transmission oil by using the transmission itself to pump the fluid out or by the drain plug which will leave a lot in the torque converter. If the latter, I need to find another mechanic.
Any disagreement with this plan?
Anovice
10-29-2017, 07:46 AM
#23
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 81
I would do it without hesitation. This summer I drove my 01 Maxima with 175,XXX miles from Colorado to Wisconsin. It was about 950 miles. I was up to date on all the regular maintenance and did not have one issue. As others have said I would have some extra oil and a funnel.
10-30-2017, 07:16 AM
#24
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Agreed with the others - a 900 mile trip isn't as daunting on a car as one would think. Highway miles are easier on the car than city driving. Mine has 220k on it, and I do a 600 mile road trip every other weekend without any hesitation. In December I'll be making the 2600 mile round trip to go skiing in Colorado and I'm not worried about that, either.
It sounds like you keep up with the maintenance and as long as your fluids are topped off, tires are at the right pressure without any leaks, and you aren't currently experiencing any issues, you'll be fine. I'd definitely wait on the ATF flush until after the trip.
It sounds like you keep up with the maintenance and as long as your fluids are topped off, tires are at the right pressure without any leaks, and you aren't currently experiencing any issues, you'll be fine. I'd definitely wait on the ATF flush until after the trip.
10-31-2017, 02:35 AM
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 604
It's funny how our minds get twisted into thinking major problems might occur in a long trip but our same bodies get in every day and drive wherever and likely don't think twice about it and drive as much or more as a long trip would take....with zero issues.
I do the same thing, even though I do my best in maintaining everything. Strange phenomenon.
I do the same thing, even though I do my best in maintaining everything. Strange phenomenon.
10-31-2017, 03:07 AM
#26
It's funny how our minds get twisted into thinking major problems might occur in a long trip but our same bodies get in every day and drive wherever and likely don't think twice about it and drive as much or more as a long trip would take....with zero issues.
I do the same thing, even though I do my best in maintaining everything. Strange phenomenon.
I do the same thing, even though I do my best in maintaining everything. Strange phenomenon.