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IACV and motor mount replacement?

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Old 11-15-2014, 04:56 PM
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IACV and motor mount replacement?

I've come to then conclusion that it may be time to replace these essential parts in my car. question is, do these parts HAVE to be OEM? An IACV is around 60 on ebay while around 260 for OEM!! At 17, I am nowhere near rich, in fact, quite poor.. haha. Anyways, Need some help guys, I know there are you out there that have had to deal with these issues. Thanks
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Old 11-15-2014, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AT978
I've come to then conclusion that it may be time to replace these essential parts in my car. question is, do these parts HAVE to be OEM? An IACV is around 60 on ebay while around 260 for OEM!! At 17, I am nowhere near rich, in fact, quite poor.. haha. Anyways, Need some help guys, I know there are you out there that have had to deal with these issues. Thanks
iacv definitely oem

motor mounts are debatable. i bought ebay mounts, some will say they don't last long
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Old 11-15-2014, 05:52 PM
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I see that you went with the manual mounts, from what I know they are smaller correct? if they are smaller how to they support correctly? and did you do the job by yourself?
Originally Posted by cornholio
iacv definitely oem

motor mounts are debatable. i bought ebay mounts, some will say they don't last long
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AT978
I see that you went with the manual mounts, from what I know they are smaller correct? if they are smaller how to they support correctly? and did you do the job by yourself?
i don't believe they are smaller but could be wrong. possibly the inserts are a different size but everything should line up correctly. from what i remember researching they are interchangeable, difference is manual won't have the electric goo (sorry don't know the technical term) to soften mounts when stopped/idle so you may feel a little additional vibration.

manual are cheaper, so that's a plus. there are horror stories of the electric at mounts shorting ecm also so that's another reason to swap them or at least disconnect.

i had a friend who is more mechanically inclined help at the time just because i hadn't done much work myself in the past. after seeing it done if i had to do it again i wouldn't hesistate to do it myself.

Last edited by cornholio; 11-15-2014 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AT978
I've come to then conclusion that it may be time to replace these essential parts in my car. question is, do these parts HAVE to be OEM? An IACV is around 60 on ebay while around 260 for OEM!! At 17, I am nowhere near rich, in fact, quite poor.. haha. Anyways, Need some help guys, I know there are you out there that have had to deal with these issues. Thanks
Why do you think you need to replace your IACV? Does your car idle badly?

The IACV is a potential problem because its wiring can go short as a result of long-term exposure to the coolant and subsequently damages your ECU. Many people on this forum, including myself, dealt with this problem by implementing a "coolant bypass" for the IACV (search for details and howto). This seems to be a good solution that costs you only an hour or two of work.
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by AT978
I've come to then conclusion that it may be time to replace these essential parts in my car. question is, do these parts HAVE to be OEM? An IACV is around 60 on ebay while around 260 for OEM!! At 17, I am nowhere near rich, in fact, quite poor.. haha. Anyways, Need some help guys, I know there are you out there that have had to deal with these issues. Thanks
I got my IACV on eBay and it is still going strong. I took out the 15 year old one and compared it to the new one and they seemed completely identical, the multimeter values were off of course. I actually went to Advance Auto to compare my old ones values with a multimeter. Well, the one there cost $207, but the guy leaned over to me and whispered, "I would go online and buy this, it's the exact same thing we buy but we charge A LOT more." I love disgruntled employees. You don't HAVE to buy OEM, and the part is EXTREMELY easy to replace if you have any mechanical inclination. Trust me.. Some things def need to be oem, but I don't think this is one of them, in my opinion.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:25 AM
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Nissan makes cars, not parts, OEM is a good thing but but you can find some parts that are the same as OEM, if you take the time to look for them. Rockauto to the rescue
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
Why do you think you need to replace your IACV? Does your car idle badly?

The IACV is a potential problem because its wiring can go short as a result of long-term exposure to the coolant and subsequently damages your ECU. Many people on this forum, including myself, dealt with this problem by implementing a "coolant bypass" for the IACV (search for details and howto). This seems to be a good solution that costs you only an hour or two of work.
my idle is just a bit high, around 1100rpm in park/neutral.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AT978

my idle is just a bit high, around 1100rpm in park/neutral.
Have you got code p0505? I did mothaeffin light came on today, i think I'll just clean it real good,might work!!
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Old 11-16-2014, 02:13 PM
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IAC, TPS, o2 sensor, you all want OEM the reason is the ECU is looking for specific behavior,resistance, or numbers and the aftermarket stuff is little bit different and cause problems. in short they they make it hard for aftermarket to make proper parts on purpose.
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