O'reilly MasterPro ignition coils
#1
O'reilly MasterPro ignition coils
I've read many posts about ignition coils needing to be OEM but has anyone had any experience with the O'reilly MasterPro ignition coils? The guy says they are to OEM standards and come with a lifetime warranty. I was wondering if they were just re-branded Hitachi coils or something like that. I have to replace at least one of my coils and this seemed like a good thing. I replaced one about 7 years ago with OEM so I can't complain about anything, but who can beat a lifetime warranty? Thanks in advance.
#3
A lifetime warranty is nice. Go to O'Reilly and ask to look at one. See if there is a manufacturer's logo on it. Hitachi's logo is a H inside of a circle.
But then, Rock Auto sells Hitachi coils for about half the price of the O'Reilly coil. While the Hitachi coil from Rock Auto only has a one year warranty, it is the brand that Nissan used and that got the down the road for 15 years.
Tough choice.
But then, Rock Auto sells Hitachi coils for about half the price of the O'Reilly coil. While the Hitachi coil from Rock Auto only has a one year warranty, it is the brand that Nissan used and that got the down the road for 15 years.
Tough choice.
#5
Yeah, tough choices, I'd like to drive it as long as I can but I know it wont be another 5 years or anything. BUT, I've actually checked all my coils and they seems to be working fine. I just did the "unplug while vehicle running" test of each coil and the car would idle poorly with each and every one, so now I have to do a little more diagnosing. Why couldn't it have just been a coil... Oh well, the car is running fine, just the damn p1320 code. I hope it's not a wiring harness or some possibly expensive **** like that. I have 235K on it now and it has been a beast, so I can't really complain. Plus, thanks to this site, I have done a majority of the repairs myself and saved tons of loot.
#6
Yeah, tough choices, I'd like to drive it as long as I can but I know it wont be another 5 years or anything. BUT, I've actually checked all my coils and they seems to be working fine. I just did the "unplug while vehicle running" test of each coil and the car would idle poorly with each and every one, so now I have to do a little more diagnosing. Why couldn't it have just been a coil... Oh well, the car is running fine, just the damn p1320 code. I hope it's not a wiring harness or some possibly expensive **** like that. I have 235K on it now and it has been a beast, so I can't really complain. Plus, thanks to this site, I have done a majority of the repairs myself and saved tons of loot.
#7
I'm going to try that. I did a little more research and found that a coil may seem ok but it only takes a slight variance in resistance to cause a problem. That means I get to buy a new toy, or tool I mean. Now I need to figure out how to use one...
Last edited by Emaximus; 11-03-2014 at 08:03 PM.
#8
i bought one from oreilly last month and went with their higher dollar option for one coil. i opened the box and it was an oem piece that matched the rest of my coils. However, that new coil was dead right out of the box. i warrantied it and it was not an oem but they both had a label on then saying made in Japan.
#9
Hummm...
So, my SES light is now off with no p1320 code... I haven't changed anything, so not sure what happened. Here is a breakdown of my symptoms:
1. First cold (29 degrees) of the year last Saturday morning while driving home from the fire station. I feel the car stutter a bit after about 30 minutes of driving.
2. I put a reader on to see and I have a pending 1320 code but no SES light. A day or so later, the SES light is finally on.
3. The day before I filled up with mid grade fuel, which I have used for a majority or the 14 years I've had the car but lately I've been using premium because I get better gas mileage.
4. I fill up again with premium a day or so ago and after a I took the coils out to check them using a multimeter, the code is gone.
mid grade fuel + cold temp = p1320 code?
It's going to get cold again in the next few days, so we'll see if it comes back on. I do have one grey dot coil that I replaced about 7 years ago, but the rest of them are the original ones. I've read through most of the p1320 threads but I'm still not sure what the reading are supposed to be when testing the coils.
grey dot = 1.69 #4 coil
original = 1.52 #2 coil, 1.49 #6 coil
I'll try the induction light test also if/when the code comes back. Any other ideas?
1. First cold (29 degrees) of the year last Saturday morning while driving home from the fire station. I feel the car stutter a bit after about 30 minutes of driving.
2. I put a reader on to see and I have a pending 1320 code but no SES light. A day or so later, the SES light is finally on.
3. The day before I filled up with mid grade fuel, which I have used for a majority or the 14 years I've had the car but lately I've been using premium because I get better gas mileage.
4. I fill up again with premium a day or so ago and after a I took the coils out to check them using a multimeter, the code is gone.
mid grade fuel + cold temp = p1320 code?
It's going to get cold again in the next few days, so we'll see if it comes back on. I do have one grey dot coil that I replaced about 7 years ago, but the rest of them are the original ones. I've read through most of the p1320 threads but I'm still not sure what the reading are supposed to be when testing the coils.
grey dot = 1.69 #4 coil
original = 1.52 #2 coil, 1.49 #6 coil
I'll try the induction light test also if/when the code comes back. Any other ideas?
#10
I got 6 coils off Amazon. I know it was a risk but months later they are still going strong. Replaced my front and rear valve covers, spark plugs, and the coils. The price was right and I went for it. So far no regrets.
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