a33_ridah

iTrader: (10)

My driver side wheel bearing is shot on my 02...about 500 miles in my possession and months with previous owners (they never bothered fixing it).

Im finally gonna get to it. I read thru some older threads/ it mentions if the damage isnt fixed fast enough the hub assembly likely gets botched as well..

Is there a visual test to determine if hub is still ok?
I thought about getting a timken brand bearing? reasons not to?

Also please see this link of hub assembly and a bearing for a LOW price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Right-...24858e&vxp=mtr

would it not be suggested to buy these parts?

Just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks in advance!

Brl24

I would almost guarantee that the hub is garbage now as well, I have yet to do one where the hub was still good. Even if it seems alright, it may not be and if you reassemble it like that your new bearing will be garbage in no time.

Not sure I'd buy that cheap combo, you get what you pay for my man. Timken is a decent brand, combined with a Dorman bub and it will still be relatively cheap. Check out rockauto.com, great prices

a33_ridah

iTrader: (10)

^^ Thanks for reminding of rock auto...lapsed my memory. i used it just weeks ago for max parts.

Timken brand bearing/snap ring/nut and hub are $78 as a kit

A dorman hub is 16 plus 27$ for the timken bearing. A timken ring alone is like a $1.50
do i have to have a new nut?
Its far cheaper to buy it in pieces...

i was beginning to lean towards a hub replacement as well to save headache later.
This video is helping me out a lot in case others are interested....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qw7Mk41q5k

a33_ridah

iTrader: (10)

Rock Auto parts came in. 52 shipped for (Dorman hub/Timken Bearing and snap ring.
Got it and went straight to work at it...Ran into following issues. Below is an overall summary of issues/resolutions

*So The previous owner i bought it from had let this issue linger for a long time....The wheel had a LOT of play in it raised of the ground. More of a wobble.
* Once removed, it was a PITA to get the axle nut to budge (Apparently there had been enough slack in it to permanently strip/screw 3-4 rows of threads. The Seat of the nut had been moving a lot. It just would not go past this spot with an impact/breaker bar. Actually Broke two breaker bars ends in process in the 32mm socket....SO Had to X cut the nut out...Axle end got jarred in process of it.
* Lower tie rod Nut stripped...had to replace that
*Once axle nut split in 4 pieces...hub literally fell to the ground with a slight touch. Its my understanding this shouldn't occur lolz. It was TOAST!!
* Got a new reman axle for $47. that went in with no problem.
*Took all parts to a machine shop. Bearing removed/pressed in. Labor was $50 there. Hot tanked spindle as well.
* Re-asssembly went way smoother...all bolts torqued down fine.

On first test run noticed a horrible squealing sound...turned out to be the rotor dust cover had bent slightly and was rubbing the rotor. Easy fix.

All done and said- $52 for parts. $50 for machine shop. $45 for axle. $40 to my homie/mechanic as a "tip" for helping along.
Now i have a much different driving max. No more clutter with a throttle depress (had to have been the wheel shaking on axle)...

BTW in all this we discovered the wheel literally could have fallen off at most anytime. With enough slack of hub on axle...it couldve snapped? theoretically correct i suppose.

Do NOT let your bad wheel bearing go this long unchanged. (About 500 miles in my possession as i just bought car and previous owner stated funny noised on driver side for last few thousand miles) FIX IT. (sorry for the long rant) - if anyone reads it all lolz