bennuss

Anybody have any tips or a description on changing the trans motor mount?
Do I have to remove the air box and the battery or can I get to it by removing the driver side wheel and trim/splash guard? (saw hat on one post after extensive searching )

shaks

iTrader: (15)

Not that hard at all. You can do it from the top. just need a jack to lift up the tranny a little. That can save you from stripping the thread inside the tranny when you put the bollt back in with the new mount.
You'll need to remove the air box and inner fender cover. When new mount goes in, put the bolts into transmission first, but not tight. Fish for the single through hole on the top and you could tighten the lower 4 bolts after.

here is a short video, procedure is almost identical for autos

bennuss

sorry but your video did not post

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Agree with all of the above, except fender liner doesn't have to come out. Removing the battery and battery tray helps.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

^^^^^----- Agreed. Why spend an extra hour trying to work around battery box/intake/etc when you can just take 5-10 minutes to remove that stuff?

bennuss

How do I open the bolts they are totally rusted and i don't want them to break off in my trans?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Wow...that is risky. Be very careful. Use a 6pt socket only. Soak it with PB for DAYS. Use heat before you even try to turn them. The critical point is breaking it free intially.

I would use a combination of tightening then loosening, then tightening, all the way out.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

This is an often forgotten technique. Exactly what I was going to suggest. Use firm and consistent pressure when breaking loose.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

Use some PB Blaster on those, let it sit for a few hrs and go work it. Pretty easy job, no more than 20 minutes to do. I did the change in my car on the street with minimal tools... GL

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

If you've got a sandblaster (or acess to one) then blast the bolts and paint the heads. Then use anti seize on the threads. Altogether will protect the volts for some time to come.

bennuss

I am afraid to use heat since all the wiring harnesses are there. I would have to remove them all. Iam going to try to spray some PB between the base of the mount and the trans maybe some will get into the actual bolt holes.
After I opened it and saw that I took the pictures sprayed it with alot of Pb and closed up.
Where should I support the trans from? Should I just put a board on my jack and jack up under the trans pan?
Does the car have to be on stands?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Car doesn't need to be on stands unless you have to raise it to get a jack under the tranny. You're really not supporting the trans, more just helping keep things from moving. Make sure you use a board between the jack and trans to avoid denting the pan, it spreads the weight across the pan.

DjHackStyle

my bolts looked like that, i purchased new bolts from the dealer before installing it in but all the bolts came out no problem with my impact gun.