Cameronn3712

I recently purchased a 2000 Maxima about 3 months ago. I believe the car has been in an accident recently because the front, and rear bumpers are freshly painted and the doors are slightly out of aligned. Few weeks after I started driving it, I noticed the wheel bearing needed to be changed. It was makes all types of noises when I would turn, and also when I jacked up the car and tried to shake the tire up and down, It moved dramasticly. I brought it to a well known shop around my area and had it fixed. after about 3 days of driving, the same problem occured, and then got it fixed again with a more quality US made bearing. And again, about a week went by it needs replaced again. I changed it out 3 times within 2 months. And problem keeps occuring. The mechanic said the hub and spindle looked fine and didn't need changing. Can anyone think of a reason the bearing could be going out so quick? I never have heard of this happening. Thanks in advanced, Cameron.

smplyamzng

change the hub too. It is causing the bearing to go bad...and fire your mechanic

Cameronn3712

Could the spindle be bad also? Could it be effected by driving with a worn bearing? Or could it be another reason of the bearing going out? Thanks again.

smplyamzng

the spindle should be fine. Its always best to replace hub+bearing when doing bearing work. Once the old bearing started going bad the hub got compromised and will prematurely damge the new bearing

Cameronn3712

Thank you, I will change hub and bearing again soon, and will post the results.

Emaximus

Looking forward to your post as I need to do this soon also. Passenger side front wheel. Trying to figure out if I need to replace the entire hub and bearing.

Max_Gator

Go to autozone and get the timken bearing and hub. Far better than other replacement parts available aside from oem.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Timken re packages NTN bearings.
OEM uses NTN bearings.

If you buy a TIMKEN bearing it will be identical to the OEM one. Except the cost will be about 1/5 lol. And you should probably do the spindle also I've seen them go bad as well

Max_Gator

Didn't realize that!

Emaximus

I'm replacing my rear wheel hub assembly. Does anyone know if you absolutely HAVE to use a new lock nut, or has anyone just reused the old one? The service manual says not to reuse. I know for sure I'll have to get new dust caps, I'm going to have to beat the hell out of those things to get them off.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would use a new one. For something like wheels/hubs etc, yeah, safety.

zenjia 03merlot

most hubs/bearing packages come with new nuts, iirc our 5.5 gens are 32mm. I bought timken front hubs/bearings and had them pressed into the knuckles at a machine shop. make sure you detach the abs sensor harness from the inside the engine bay and gentle pull out from wheel well, much easier than trying to separating from knuckle, imo.

the rears, i just bought the cheapest~$29/hub. BUT, i completely forgot about pressing off old abs rotor sensors on the factory rear hubs, lots of metal teeth on a ring pressed on the rear hubs with abs, and pressing them on the new rear hubs. the fsm says to press in new abs rotor sensors onto new rear hubs, but im going to try to use the old ones. rock auto had rear hubs with abs sensors rings already pressed in, but they were ~$60/hub. going to rent some 3 legged puller/presser at pepboys and see if i could do myself, i've been getting a abs light after ~80mph, im guessing due to the different voltages the front sensors are readings vs. whatever the sensors in the rear are/aren't reading for the 4-way ABS brakes systems. check our FSM AX-19 about rear hubs. i was trying to save some money, but it you want to make it easy for yourself, buy the ones already pressed in hubs, it's a simple plug and play.

all parts purchased at rockauto. factory suggest new nuts b/c they require cinching newly installed axle nuts, to prevent accidental backing off.