Fluctuating Temp Gauge. Car Shutting Off. Scary Swerve. 3 Issues after major work.
10-26-2013, 07:18 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Fluctuating Temp Gauge. Car Shutting Off. Scary Swerve. 3 Issues after major work.
Recently I replaced the entire front suspension (Shocks, Springs, Control Arms, Tie Rods, Axles, Rack and Pinion, Radiator, Power Steering Hoses and Pump, Drive Belts, Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Headers.)
I have 3 issues remaining, I need your help.
The Maxima begins to overheat after driving around for a while. When I'm idling or driving at low speeds the needle surpasses the half way point and all but Reaches the H at the top. When driving constantly without stopping, specially the highway the engine runs at normal temperature. I had a crack in my radiator and replaced the radiator. I had a leak in the hoses and replaced the hoses.
Now I don't know what the issue is. The Radiator seems to still come up empty when I open the cap and the coolant reservoir is at the MAX line and doesn't seem to change or deplete.
I keep filling it up with water, before it would take a week before it acted up now it is doing it every day.
I am planning on flushing the cooling system completely and then replacing the coolant , maybe its an air pocket, any other ideas?
The second issue is this, I am not sure if it is related to the overheating/ It happens rarely but every now and then when I come to a stop the car stutters as the idle drops and at times ever rarer it turns off completely when exiting the highway and coming to a full stop. What may be the cause?
Third, I have nasty sway, specially when cornering right.
When Cornering Left; turning left at high speeds, the car grabs the road and sticks and handles EXCELLENT. However when cornering right I seem to wobble and the right wheel seems to jump and bob (left right) or so that is how it feels. This also happens when I accelerate HARD while going straight the car seems to bob left and right and it feels as if though the right suspension might be the cause. As I said I replaced everything. I was in a minor fender bender, an SUV hit my right fender right above the wheel going 5-10 mph causing my strut to bend. I replaced the strut (all of them) and springs. I suspect now that maybe the wheel hub may need replacing or the wheel may be possibly bent, but a few ppl took a look at it but don't think this is the issue. THey said possibly it may be because I need a camber bolt/kit because I replaced springs with lowering springs (TEIN H Tech) any other ideas?
I have 3 issues remaining, I need your help.
The Maxima begins to overheat after driving around for a while. When I'm idling or driving at low speeds the needle surpasses the half way point and all but Reaches the H at the top. When driving constantly without stopping, specially the highway the engine runs at normal temperature. I had a crack in my radiator and replaced the radiator. I had a leak in the hoses and replaced the hoses.
Now I don't know what the issue is. The Radiator seems to still come up empty when I open the cap and the coolant reservoir is at the MAX line and doesn't seem to change or deplete.
I keep filling it up with water, before it would take a week before it acted up now it is doing it every day.
I am planning on flushing the cooling system completely and then replacing the coolant , maybe its an air pocket, any other ideas?
The second issue is this, I am not sure if it is related to the overheating/ It happens rarely but every now and then when I come to a stop the car stutters as the idle drops and at times ever rarer it turns off completely when exiting the highway and coming to a full stop. What may be the cause?
Third, I have nasty sway, specially when cornering right.
When Cornering Left; turning left at high speeds, the car grabs the road and sticks and handles EXCELLENT. However when cornering right I seem to wobble and the right wheel seems to jump and bob (left right) or so that is how it feels. This also happens when I accelerate HARD while going straight the car seems to bob left and right and it feels as if though the right suspension might be the cause. As I said I replaced everything. I was in a minor fender bender, an SUV hit my right fender right above the wheel going 5-10 mph causing my strut to bend. I replaced the strut (all of them) and springs. I suspect now that maybe the wheel hub may need replacing or the wheel may be possibly bent, but a few ppl took a look at it but don't think this is the issue. THey said possibly it may be because I need a camber bolt/kit because I replaced springs with lowering springs (TEIN H Tech) any other ideas?
10-27-2013, 11:50 AM
#4
For the overheating, you obviously have a leak somewhere. Is it everyday that you need to add water? Normally, coolant will flow into the overflow tank when the engine heats up and then suck it back out as the engine cools off. When you have a leak, the coolant may never go into the overflow tank, depending on how bad the leak is. The opposite is true when the engine cools off, the engine sucks air in through the leak because it is easier.
If all you did was replace the radiator, inspect the hose connections carefully. The lower hose is more difficult, so you need to try harder on that one. I would take the plastic splash shield off. It is also possible the a hose could have developed a pin hole from being flexed and bent in the radiator change process.
For the steering problem, inspect the lca bushing, especially the right side. If you had a power steering leak, the oil rots the bushing and the accident finished it off.
If all you did was replace the radiator, inspect the hose connections carefully. The lower hose is more difficult, so you need to try harder on that one. I would take the plastic splash shield off. It is also possible the a hose could have developed a pin hole from being flexed and bent in the radiator change process.
For the steering problem, inspect the lca bushing, especially the right side. If you had a power steering leak, the oil rots the bushing and the accident finished it off.
10-28-2013, 07:53 AM
#5
Yeah it definitely sounds like a coolant leak to me as well, that explains overheating and coolant loss, and possibly the engine randomly shutting off. Another place to check aside from the hoses and radiator is the coolant bridge (aluminum pipe from one head to the other) which is on the drivers side of the engine, that has a tendency to leak with age. Easy to replace the gaskets on there.
Did you get an alignment after replacing the suspension?
Did you get an alignment after replacing the suspension?
10-28-2013, 11:21 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
For the overheating, you obviously have a leak somewhere. Is it everyday that you need to add water? Normally, coolant will flow into the overflow tank when the engine heats up and then suck it back out as the engine cools off. When you have a leak, the coolant may never go into the overflow tank, depending on how bad the leak is. The opposite is true when the engine cools off, the engine sucks air in through the leak because it is easier.
If all you did was replace the radiator, inspect the hose connections carefully. The lower hose is more difficult, so you need to try harder on that one. I would take the plastic splash shield off. It is also possible the a hose could have developed a pin hole from being flexed and bent in the radiator change process.
For the steering problem, inspect the lca bushing, especially the right side. If you had a power steering leak, the oil rots the bushing and the accident finished it off.
If all you did was replace the radiator, inspect the hose connections carefully. The lower hose is more difficult, so you need to try harder on that one. I would take the plastic splash shield off. It is also possible the a hose could have developed a pin hole from being flexed and bent in the radiator change process.
For the steering problem, inspect the lca bushing, especially the right side. If you had a power steering leak, the oil rots the bushing and the accident finished it off.
First of, let me start of by saying Thank you, i appreciate those who are helping me with this issue.
I removed and inspected all hoses. They appeared to be fine.
I flushed system. Good thing i did it was dirty in there. I refilled it with anti freeze and some water. I turned on the car and let it run for 20 minutes. No overheating no leeks.
I took the car out for a drive. After 30 minutes it began to over heat, acceleration response even decreased. It then shut off and would not turn back on. I attempted multiple times to turn it on. Two minutes later it finally did and i pulled into a gas station. I noticed that the south east corner of the alternator was wet. A puddle of water was dripping onto the floor below. I turned on the car and increased engine rpms using the throttle body. I noticed water droplets (barely noticeable) shooting out of the ends of the hose where connects to the engine right above the alternator. The hose and clamps were recently repaired. Could this be the issue.
Typically it would take a week for car to overt heat now it's doing it daily.
I recently replaced the control arms as well when i fixed my power steering issue.
I also had the vehicle aligned through just tires and they also stated that i needed a camber bolt because i replaced my springs with lowering sprigs.
Yeah it definitely sounds like a coolant leak to me as well, that explains overheating and coolant loss, and possibly the engine randomly shutting off. Another place to check aside from the hoses and radiator is the coolant bridge (aluminum pipe from one head to the other) which is on the drivers side of the engine, that has a tendency to leak with age. Easy to replace the gaskets on there.
Did you get an alignment after replacing the suspension?
Did you get an alignment after replacing the suspension?
10-28-2013, 11:22 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
How much coolant does the system take/need. And how do you bleed system correctly?
10-28-2013, 12:05 PM
#9
so im trying to understand this, are you having to repeatedly fill the radiator or not?
If you are, then you are losing coolant somewhere, and thats likely the overheating source. When the system cant build pressure properly due to leaks it will run hot, when it gets hotter the leaks usually get worse. That small droplet leak you had to start with may have become larger causing quicker overheating and obviously quicker coolant loss.
If you are, then you are losing coolant somewhere, and thats likely the overheating source. When the system cant build pressure properly due to leaks it will run hot, when it gets hotter the leaks usually get worse. That small droplet leak you had to start with may have become larger causing quicker overheating and obviously quicker coolant loss.
10-28-2013, 12:06 PM
#10
Did you get the unibody checked for straightness after the accident? Bent "frame" would definitely cause serious handling issues. A bad/imbalanced tire could also cause that sensation. I know you replaced the tie rods, but the wobble is also a symptom of bad tie rod ends.
Did you replace the wheel bearing when you did all that other suspension work?
Did you replace the wheel bearing when you did all that other suspension work?
Last edited by Gemner; 10-28-2013 at 12:12 PM.
10-28-2013, 12:31 PM
#11
I took the car out for a drive. After 30 minutes it began to over heat, acceleration response even decreased. It then shut off and would not turn back on. I attempted multiple times to turn it on. Two minutes later it finally did and i pulled into a gas station. I noticed that the south east corner of the alternator was wet. A puddle of water was dripping onto the floor below. I turned on the car and increased engine rpms using the throttle body.
I noticed water droplets (barely noticeable) shooting out of the ends of the hose where connects to the engine right above the alternator.
The hose and clamps were recently repaired. Could this be the issue.
I noticed water droplets (barely noticeable) shooting out of the ends of the hose where connects to the engine right above the alternator.
The hose and clamps were recently repaired. Could this be the issue.
Check the inside of the hose that it is clean and smooth and not deteriorating. When you re-install the hose, make sure it is on all the way and that the hose clamp is completely past the end of the tube and not on it.
10-28-2013, 01:57 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Thanks Guys, all your input is being taken into consideration,
I have to keep refilling the radiator.
I believe I may have found the source of the leak.
I did not replace the Wheel Bearing. I have not checked out the Uni Body.
Do I have to take it to a body shop or can a Mechanic do this as well.
I will follow your advice, I will check the unibody followed by replacing wheel bearing and balancing the tire.
I will do so tonight. There was some corrosion on the Tube. I cleaned the hose and tube this weekend, but I did not sand it and I noticed corrosion, I cleaned most of it of but I will go through it again with more detail.
Thank You.
This May be the cause of the car shutting off, maybe the water dripping on alternator is messing it up.
so im trying to understand this, are you having to repeatedly fill the radiator or not?
If you are, then you are losing coolant somewhere, and thats likely the overheating source. When the system cant build pressure properly due to leaks it will run hot, when it gets hotter the leaks usually get worse. That small droplet leak you had to start with may have become larger causing quicker overheating and obviously quicker coolant loss.
If you are, then you are losing coolant somewhere, and thats likely the overheating source. When the system cant build pressure properly due to leaks it will run hot, when it gets hotter the leaks usually get worse. That small droplet leak you had to start with may have become larger causing quicker overheating and obviously quicker coolant loss.
I believe I may have found the source of the leak.
Did you get the unibody checked for straightness after the accident? Bent "frame" would definitely cause serious handling issues. A bad/imbalanced tire could also cause that sensation. I know you replaced the tie rods, but the wobble is also a symptom of bad tie rod ends.
Did you replace the wheel bearing when you did all that other suspension work?
Did you replace the wheel bearing when you did all that other suspension work?
I did not replace the Wheel Bearing. I have not checked out the Uni Body.
Do I have to take it to a body shop or can a Mechanic do this as well.
I will follow your advice, I will check the unibody followed by replacing wheel bearing and balancing the tire.
This is certainly part of the problem, if not all of it. Remove the hose and inspect the metal tube it slides over. If it has corrosion built up on it, get some sandpaper and sand it off. Also inspect the metal that there are not any big depressions or pockets corroded into the surface. If there are, you will have to replace the thermostat housing.
Check the inside of the hose that it is clean and smooth and not deteriorating. When you re-install the hose, make sure it is on all the way and that the hose clamp is completely past the end of the tube and not on it.
Check the inside of the hose that it is clean and smooth and not deteriorating. When you re-install the hose, make sure it is on all the way and that the hose clamp is completely past the end of the tube and not on it.
I will do so tonight. There was some corrosion on the Tube. I cleaned the hose and tube this weekend, but I did not sand it and I noticed corrosion, I cleaned most of it of but I will go through it again with more detail.
Thank You.
This May be the cause of the car shutting off, maybe the water dripping on alternator is messing it up.
10-28-2013, 09:25 PM
#13
I hate to be negative, but I don't think so. While having chemical loaded antifreeze dripping on the alternator is probably not good, about the only way the alternator would stop the car is if it shorts out internally and takes the battery with it. Otherwise, if the alternator stops charging, the car will run off the battery until the battery is discharged.
10-29-2013, 09:50 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
I hate to be negative, but I don't think so. While having chemical loaded antifreeze dripping on the alternator is probably not good, about the only way the alternator would stop the car is if it shorts out internally and takes the battery with it. Otherwise, if the alternator stops charging, the car will run off the battery until the battery is discharged.
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