Rear brake issue
#1
Rear brake issue
Everyone, My 01 max has 191,000 miles and still running strong. I replaced my rear brakes-rotors,pads and calipers and master cylinder over the weekend. Bleeding the brakes was no issue. However I had an issue with rear passenger brake sticking yesterday on my way home, hot and smelled bad. This morning on my way to work, no issues. Any thoughts on why I had this issue. I greased everything really good upon installation. I know the brakes have always been an issue for the maxima.....
#3
could be something with the parking brake lines, I installed a brand new rear passenger caliper and the next morning it froze......
did you grease up where the e-brake line connects to the caliper?
did you grease up where the e-brake line connects to the caliper?
#4
I have not used the e-brake since installation. However I did not grease up the parking brake line. Grease up directly where it connects to the brake? Good suggestion as I will do this tonight....
#5
yes right where it connects to the caliper, this is what I got out of a long search. sadly I didn't do this yet to confirm but i definately need to before it gets cold.
I have had many many problems with the pass rear caliper and once I replaced it still the same problems, so it led me to finding out about the parking lines getting water in them and freezing when you use the parking brake.
I have had many many problems with the pass rear caliper and once I replaced it still the same problems, so it led me to finding out about the parking lines getting water in them and freezing when you use the parking brake.
#6
The problem with the ebrake cables is that they are poorly made and designed. Moisture gets into the line and it rusts, eventually snagging and seizing.
I've tried spraying everything from graphite powder to WD40 into the line, with no success. Ended up replacing the line (was just my passenger side) with a good one from the junk yard.
Heres a quick check: pull your ebrake and release. reach through your rims (if you can- or crawl up under back of the car) and see if the enrake bracket has fully rotated back to its resting position. Pulling back on the ebrake bracket at the caliper should tell you if the cable is snagging. If you pull the bracket and it moves back to its resting position, it is the cable for that side. If its already there, then I'd say the actual piston stuck.
I've tried spraying everything from graphite powder to WD40 into the line, with no success. Ended up replacing the line (was just my passenger side) with a good one from the junk yard.
Heres a quick check: pull your ebrake and release. reach through your rims (if you can- or crawl up under back of the car) and see if the enrake bracket has fully rotated back to its resting position. Pulling back on the ebrake bracket at the caliper should tell you if the cable is snagging. If you pull the bracket and it moves back to its resting position, it is the cable for that side. If its already there, then I'd say the actual piston stuck.
#7
The problem with the ebrake cables is that they are poorly made and designed. Moisture gets into the line and it rusts, eventually snagging and seizing.
I've tried spraying everything from graphite powder to WD40 into the line, with no success. Ended up replacing the line (was just my passenger side) with a good one from the junk yard.
Heres a quick check: pull your ebrake and release. reach through your rims (if you can- or crawl up under back of the car) and see if the enrake bracket has fully rotated back to its resting position. Pulling back on the ebrake bracket at the caliper should tell you if the cable is snagging. If you pull the bracket and it moves back to its resting position, it is the cable for that side. If its already there, then I'd say the actual piston stuck.
I've tried spraying everything from graphite powder to WD40 into the line, with no success. Ended up replacing the line (was just my passenger side) with a good one from the junk yard.
Heres a quick check: pull your ebrake and release. reach through your rims (if you can- or crawl up under back of the car) and see if the enrake bracket has fully rotated back to its resting position. Pulling back on the ebrake bracket at the caliper should tell you if the cable is snagging. If you pull the bracket and it moves back to its resting position, it is the cable for that side. If its already there, then I'd say the actual piston stuck.
#8
The cable itself is roughly a 10 minute job. The problem, as with most things, is getting to it. You have to remove the exhaust heat shields from the side affected all the way from the rear to the catalytic converter. I was able to work around my 3" Cattman at the b-pipe. However, you MIGHT have to remove the resonator section to get to those bolts. If you have a stock resonator section, I can almost guarantee you'll have to drop it. If you have a 3" catback with the 4" resonator, I'd say you could get behind there with a 10mm wrench.
Time: Removing and re-installing the exhaust and/or heat shields - 45m. Removing old and installing new cable - 10m.
Time: Removing and re-installing the exhaust and/or heat shields - 45m. Removing old and installing new cable - 10m.
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