S1cTech

I know other than oil burning & short turn Ratio, does it have any crappy input shaft bearing issues with the tranni? I am thinking of picking this one up for cheap cause my input shaft bearing is bad on my 4th gen.

It is a 2003 for 2 grand and has 150k miles on it. I really just need something to last me the next 3-4 years or so and I think that car can. I got my current maxi to run 7 years so far and I never had major issues other than the transmission and axles and wheelbearings/rust and no A/C after the first year but everything motor wise was mint.

Is there any other nagging issues? The reason why this one is so cheap is cause he said the carrier bearing broke on the axle. I am hoping it isn't going to be bad if I replace that. He said it can be just welded and it should be good to go (of course he say that lol). I wonder if taking this car for that cheap is a good idea or not.

The car looks fresh and it is the same as mine. Black on Black leather manual and dark blue. I get that nice 50hp upgrade with thevq35 and the back seats go down that to me is the 2nd best feature for system lovers lol and way less rust. The ability to actually buy real aftermarket projectors is awesome instead of having them custom made for my car for $400 and the trunk should be near the same size as mine.

I wasn't gonna get another maxi and move to an M3 but I recently got broke and lost my job, so the m3 is gonna be a long distant dream for now. I am hoping in the next 5 years I should be able to get one haha


Thanks guys. I hope I can be a new one to this forum!

oh yeah and another question. Can these by Y-piped for that extra HP like the 4th genners?

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
Header gives more than Y-pipe according to maxima.org

Engine swap your Gen 4 :P

S1cTech

hell no. I am tired of this car. Too many issues with the front end. and its rust is more than enough to say no. I would never go through all that work. Also... My tranni is bad lol

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

I agree with the 4th gen swap. But the 5th gen is nice for someone like you who can't do work themselves. I have a 6spd swap vq30de-"KSC" and building a vq3.5de on the side. Good luck.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Isn't the mileage a bit too high to fork over $2,000.00?

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

that's a killer price if you can do the work yourself and its in otherwise good condition

S1cTech

are you dumb and can't read? I said the trans is bad and the massive body rot. Also I can do a swap I just don't have a picker nor a place to do it, or the time to bother with it. Ive done swaps in school.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

What a newb.

tseng1023

iTrader: (9)

So why are you asking questions ctfu

S1cTech

yeah a total noob why don't you read the topic and stop telling me to put a gen 5 motor in my piece of **** gen 4 rusted body with a **** transmission

cause I am asking questions about the gen 5... not be told what to do about my gen 4. Sorry if you guys regreat having a gen 5 style so much but I want it for the engine and a better car from what I think is better. Clearly you guys don't think it is better hence you keep telling me to put something in my gen 4.

2damax

I don't see what you did that was newb like nor do I see how newb is an insult. However, I think you just learned not to be so disrespectful for no reason.

The 5th gen has minor setbacks but nothing that would deter me. I just got my 2nd one a couple months ago. Check the lower radiator support! Check suspnsion wear (and strut boots). Always keep an eye on the oil level. It may have some common leaks like intake manifold, lower oil pan, a coolant line by the oil filter, etc. These are all pretty straight forward jobs and should not impact your decision much. My 2nd maxima is near 150k and the alternator died a week after purchase.

$2,000 seems like a good deal to me. I paid double for my automatic but I looked a lot and waited for a good one. Most maximas I went to see were so rusted at the lower radiator support I could take the bracket out and wiggle it.

S1cTech

They were being disrespectful. Not only not answering my question and completely telling me to do something else. They didn't read my topic fully and told me to do a swap, than another guy was like. Well, can't work on your own car. So get a gen 5. or Something like that.

2damax

It appears your priorities in this thread have changed.

/thread

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Killer deal on a 5.5 for that low if its good and runs solid I would get it, I live in Cali so I guess you guys get snow and **** gets rusty so look out for those things before buying. I had 2 5.5 and one 5th gen, 5th sold, one 5.5 got crashed into by a stupid lady, and current one doing good. All used cars will need **** replaced rather it be a 4th or 5th gen so be ready for that and Good Luck....

S1cTech

thanks, but it has Cloth. I guess I could give that a try lol

Max_Gator

Are you high focker? Wth does cloth have to do with anything?

zach90z

iTrader: (1)

Check for oil in the plugs if you find oil replace the valve cover about $80 for parts and 2 hours time to replace. Replace plugs since the IM will be off and if you can afford get the NWP spacers since IM will be off!

Check for oil leaking by the oil filter may need a new O-ring about $5 and 30min to replace.

For 2k that is a nice price with 150k and 03 leather 6spd. I paid 2200 for an 02 salvaged and not sure on the miles and I was looking for ever for a 6spd.

Carrier Bearing broken hmm. Why does he say it is broken have you driven the car? I don't think it can be welded also maybe differential is bad in that case you need to get the car for cheaper.

As far as gains don't waste your time with a y-pipe wont do anything get Headers and a catback.

Good luck man I have had my car for a few months and I love it.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Mine has it also, a B1tch to clean sometimes but not bad, I do miss the Leather in the 03....

defiance

iTrader: (1)

You cant go wrong with A Gen 5 or 5.5 as long as you do most of the repairs yourself.

S1cTech

LOL@NWP spacers haha. People still fall for that guy's product around here? jeeez lol. Fyi. Heat still rises no matter what surface it is on or touches. Spacers don't make the intake manifold cooler at all, that sucker will still get as hot with the hood closed. I give it to the guy for tricking people into that tho he made mad money off it lol. Also his dyno tests weren't actually dyno tests they were done by as computer, but thanks yeah thanks for the advice and added info.

zach90z

iTrader: (1)

It makes a huge difference in temp. I can touch the IM without burning myself where before I couldn't. As far as power I never did a dyno so I cant show you any power. But to each his own.

S1cTech

lol okay. Well close the hood and drive around for about a half an hour and than tell me how that goes. Trust me the temps are nothing if that, VERY VERY minimal. I think its just your mindset.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

actually driving around makes the biggest difference since the underhood temps arent really high, the max has "good" circulation under the hood and under most driving conditions the air under the hood is only a couple degrees higher than ambient. As someone that did a lot of racing I can say without a doubt that the temperature difference was significant, but thats not really where the gains are with the product. Port matching is nothing to laugh at

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

My IAT's are usually only a few above outside air, especially when moving 30MPH or so.

Also, since we're on the subject, who cares about the thermal effect of the spacers, I'm more interested in the added volume and the affect they have on performance as well as what Gemner said.

Also, his new TB set-up is a great option for us.

I find your statements to be nearly invalid after you asked about a y-pipe on a 5.5 gen in 2013.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

S1cTech You are a disgrace to this forum, maxima's, nissan's, and life itself.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

2damax

I knew I ended this thread for a reason.