txnurse25

I have an 02 nissan maxima se and it has been a great car over the last 5 years. The car has 180k miles on it, but is still in great condition.

I have megan racing coilovers, catman headers and y-pipe,thermal intake spacers... etc.

About 4 months ago the driver side coilover snapped as i was backing out of my driveway. I Had the old ones laying around and tossed them in. The car has not driven right since that day. Had a wheel bearing and hub go bad. Got it replaced to no aviel, front end still shakes pretty bad, and I commute with this car.

Just yesterday the car dies on me running errends,felt like limp mode, took it to the shop and they said it was batt and alternator or thats where they wanted to start. Hell the mechanic was scratching his head about pulling it out, I had to refer him to the breakdown on the forums.

I really like this car, but as what point do you say enough is enough and more on? The mrs has been bugging me for months to get a new one so to humor her I was looking at the bmw 328i or an infiniti


oh wise ones, what to do or what to get

MrEous

iTrader: (11)

180k I'd look at other suspension parts and replace them. You can consider it an investment into a good running Maxima...or else you can pay 10x-20x as much replacing it with a new(er) car.

I don't have money to burn like that so my '03 will soldier on regardless.



Btw, floating the Guadalupe this Saturday...Off topic I know, but saw you're in Austin. lol

D.Stillwell

I know where you're at dude, time to make the decision.

It's a high mileage car, so you can't really be mad at it, it's gonna need some love at this point to keep things going smoothly. I see people all the time getting mad at their cars when they start having issues after the car gets to over 100k and you have to do some work.
Most people would just get rid of the car in your case, but then most people also don't know crap about a car and have no idea how to fix anything on it, plus have no problem paying out the *** for any kind of repairs no matter how simple and get ripped off badly at every turn, so when people like that see a bunch of things needing replacement they freak out because they know this means thousands of dollars in repair at their local shop where they consistently get ripped off.

I would really evaluate the situation, and more than likely would keep the car. I would think about spending a few $$ and throwing in a new engine/trans possibly. But if I was to get a new car, these are the vehicles I'd be looking at in descending order:

1. BMW M3 Coupe (you can find a nice 2002-2006 or so used for $20-30k with around 20-30k miles or even go older and get a 98-99 which are awesome cars); I just bought a 2004 coupe few days ago, 35k miles for $18k from a marine in Guam. The M3 is hands down THE best car I've ever driven on the streets, and I drove an SL55 when working at Euro Motorcars in Bethesda, MD and the M3 is just way better, maybe not faster in a straight line but definitely a way better car and just sick.
2. BMW 330/335 coupe (another sick car, 335 coupe especially is very similar to the M3).
3. Nissan NISMO 370Z
4. Infiniti G37S coupe
5. Infiniti M35 (might need a sedan)

And yeah, looks like you might need a sedan, the M3 comes in sedan form.
Might take you a bit to find, but that's one sick car.

TravisCadello

All the damn front end issues will quickly make you just wanna get a new vehicle! specilly after you change part after part and damn thing still shakes makes u wanna say fucc it new car!


if you have the money I'd say move on get in somthin newer. First fix the max then sell it.

a33nismo

Sounds like you might need new outer tie rods if the front end is shaking while driving.

A easy way to test is to jack up the left front tire while the right front in on the ground and grab each side of the tire and shake it left and right.

If the tie rod on that side is good then you wont be able to move it much if there is about a 3/4 of a inch or more of play then it needs to be replaced.

Also do the same the the right front tire and check.

Tie rods are very cheap to replace and if you use tape to mark the current ones location so you can install the new one at the same place you might be good without an alignment.

Also while checking take alook at the bushing in the lower control arm they tend to go bad and will cause a sloppy feeling and sometimes noise in the front end.

As for the limp mode issue did it set a check engine light? If so what code do you have.


On a side note if i was going to trade in the maxima then i would look into the G35 sedan with the 6 speed manual. You still get to have the VQ engine but now rwd.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Don't get a BMW out of warranty...

A 335i and with less than $1000 in mods (tune + downpipes) will beat an e90 M3 (the 420HP V8)

Thorzdad

Return the suspension to stock and keep driving it. 180k is prime time for these cars, as long as you take care of them. Alternators fail. If that's your original alt, I'd say you did well.

All cars have to have maintenance done. I just got ours back from the shop today. Had the body cancer around the rear wheel arches repaired.

Getting a used BMW isn't going to solve your issues with spending money on maintenance. It's only going to increase the amounts you spend.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Over 400,000 miles in your 2001? Original motor?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

^^^ Best advise in this thread! ^^^
Been there, done that, never again. But they are sweet cars.

Thorzdad

Yes. Motor's never been opened.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

any car suggestion should be based on whether you can do advanced work on your car or not. If the limit of your mechanical skill is an oil change, the selection of cars reasonable for you is different than if you are comfortable troubleshooting/repairing electrical glitches and breaking down modern engines.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

OP: You said after the coilover snapped, you installed the "old ones." Old what? Stock suspension? Can't help but wonder if the strut is blown and the vibration is the result of that?

I find it hard anymore to suggest people keep their cars. If you can afford a new car like a BMW or M37x, I say you should go for it! I've learnes it boils down to the peice of mind. If you can afford "peice of mind," then go get it, son!!

txnurse25

You have fun floating down the river. I work nights and try very hard to avoid the sun when I can, sure dont go looking to float in it lol

Part of my problem is the Wife. I told her I was going to buy new shocks and struts around (just get a set of blues) I didnt care for the megans, while fully adjustable, is more than I need. I just want to set it and forget it. Plus im looking for a softer ride. I commute 1hr each way and want a better ride. Was going to get new tires around and told her I was going to put about a grand into the car. She threw a fit, said I should stop tossing money away. (yes she thinks a car payment is better). Getting her to understand me putting $1k into my car is no different than the 3 months of payments on her truck.

It is the family car and what we use to travel in, which is why she is getting tired of it breaking down. However, its just been recently it has been breaking down on me. Hell the shop still has it, changed the alternator and said the system still isnt charging, they would continue to try and track down the problem.

Yes Chris, I just took the old ones (originals) out of the garage to by some time to figure out what I wanted to do, now im having more issues.

As far as a new car, since its the family car, Ive always agreed to get a 4 door, she has the truck. I was looking at the 335i but I recently bought a Gsxr 750 for my speed and handling fix lol.

The engine runs great, just not sure the wife will let me drop the 2k (suspension parts and tires) into the car that it needs. Id rather do that and stay car payment free than have the type of payments a 20k-30k car will give me.

Will look into the tie rods, saw a post about LCA too, with blues and tires... ugg see 2 grand lol

BTW no check engine light is on. The only code had to do with the rear o2 sensors that are tied up in the engine bay. The light comes and goes since the hearer install

thanks for the help

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Www.tires-easy.com for new tires. They ship to your door and you then only have to pay for mount/balancing. Cost me $60 with nitrogen for all four mount and balance. I bought a set of 17" all season as well as a set of 18" summer tires for less then $900. But take a look.

Naturally shop around on the struts as well. The for sale forum on here is also another great option to consider.

Corrected address in link.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

335 will give you at least as many problems, at a higher cost if you are needing a shop to do your work. Or you could lease a new one with a monthly payment and a down-payment of 14+ sets of struts. I have one and its not a bad car by any means and would of course talk you into one if that was a choice that made sense, but buying yourself out of repair bills is unlikely to come out as a fiscal win.

I dont know if yours was neglected in the past, but a little maintenance cost up front should give you a lot more problem free miles. Sometimes you get unlucky and all of the issues come up at once, but once theyre fixed they should generally be good to go for just as many miles again.

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

I was in this same dilemma recently. Hit 151k, issue after issue. Some modification related, some wear/tear/repair related. It got to the point where the car was stalling out, and concerning me for any distance further than the parking garage near the train station. I saved money having it paid off, but I was not saving my piece of mind. Also, since my new job somewhat required me to travel to our other buildings a few times a month, I needed something somewhat reliable.

Enter months of searching on cars.com & autotrader. Research on e90post for issues, and finally, I traded in for a 335i coupe 6MT. It has been only a month, but I'm loving it. Yes there will be maintenance and repairs, but the chassis and overall driving dynamics have won me over. I'll pay to play if I can enjoy driving more carefree than I was towards the end of my Maxima ownership.

txnurse25

Not really looking to getting out of repair cost per say. Looking to keep the car out of the shop. The car was not neglected at all. Im the 2nd owner and the previous owner was a professors wife at UT with ADD.. when I bought the car it had all the receipts from the dealer with everything that was done to the car. I have taken pretty good car of it while upgrading when things broke.

The wife is brainwash into thinking once a car is over 100k miles, its a POS and needs to be replaced.... I know not the case, however with mine at 180k and broken, is not helping my case right now lol

Thanks Chris, will look into it, havnt heard of them before. Boguth from tire rack and the crooks at the goodyear center down the road from me

txnurse25

Think you hit the nail on the head for me. Its becoming a reliability issue. I use my car to commute, I have to trust it.... ooooo 335i manual, id like that lol

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

without a doubt its awesome and way better in driving dynamics than the maxima, I just wouldnt suggest it to someone who needs something 100% reliable. In my experience on e90post the reliability is about the same as a 100k+ maxima which IMO is plenty good, but the chances that youre going to have a car out of commission for a week or more are the same unless of course youre fully convinced that your max will continue to plague you for eternity in which case that 335 will be better. FWIW my 335 hasnt had any issues.

If I was getting annoyed by reliability and looking to get something more reliable, I cant imagine looking at BMW, I would be looking at Honda/Toyota/Lexus/Acura.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Reliability and a newer BMW in the same discussion does not compute. They are piles. That's why you can find them for cheap. People want them gone b/c the warranty is up and they already put several thousand in them.

If you have to get to work every day, then a BMW is not your car unless it's old enough to not have VVT BMW goes out of their way to design them retarded. And you better check the temp gauge every 30 seconds if you don't replace every cooling component (600 dollars in parts).
Also, the later S52s, iirc, are defective. They all blow up. BMW says to run 60+ weight oil

Now, if you can find a clean E34 for cheap....

Traveler5

I guess it depends on how much you like the car. I'm not a DIY car guy so I'd be the kind of person who has to take it to a shop. I had a 1998 Mercedes Benz E320 before owning my '01 Maxima (160,000 on it)-- had it all of 2 weeks. My Mercedes started to "nickel and dime" me but with a Mercedes it was more like $100 to $500 me. They cost a lot of $$$ to fix. I loved the car and it was a killer to get rid of it but I kept waiting for the Big Breakdown to happen which would put me in the poor house, so I sold it. I hate car payments so I bought my Maxima from my brother for a killer price. There always comes a point where you have ask yourself is the cost to fix it out weigh the cost of a car payment. The answer to that is do you like the car enough to want to pay for on-going repairs even though those costs may come close to exceeding the worth of the car. Personally, 180,000 miles on a Maxima is not a tremendous about of miles.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

What year? e90 or e92? JB4 is a must on these It completely transforms it

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

^^ 90 is sedan, 92 is coupe

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see where he wrote that he bought the coupe...

txnurse25

Stopped by the shop this morning after work and my max is still in the garage. They said they are not sure whats going on. They replaced the alternator but said it isnt getting power. Once they charge the battery the car will run for a few min then die. They said they are calling in another mechanic to look at it .

This just is sounding more and more expensive, but whatever it was, fried the old alternator. watch it be a fuse or something stupid

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

mine is 2010 and no VANOS (or VVT, whatever you prefer) so I guess that means im GTG?

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but it has a HPFP which is not much more reliable than the Vanos...

FastnFuriousMax

iTrader: (1)

HPFPs arn't that expensive and there are upgrades out there, not that the upgrade has been proven to increase their life.



OP: if you don't feel your car is reliable time to move on. I suggest a 335i.

FanaticMadMax

BMW are nice cars, but not the best in terms of relaiblity, since they start breaking around 75k miles. You never see old or high mileage BMW on the road, so you know the saying, BMW as Break your Wallet, cuz they are expensive to replace parts or fix too. SO good luck on whatever you decide to do, just make informed decision.

FastnFuriousMax

iTrader: (1)

I mean this with the utmost respect but I really don't think you know what you are talking about. Is this experience because it sounds like hearsay...

I see plenty of older bmws on the road. They designed and produced the most award winning automotive engines for the past 30 years. Probably more so than any other automotive manufacturer. Definitely more than Nissan

"you know the saying, BMW as Break your Wallet" never heard that one before...wouldn't it be Break My Wallet?

Is maintenance expensive? Yes, but not really any more than other luxury European cars. Comparing it to a nissan honda etc yes it will cost more to maintain. Show me facts that it costs significantly more than an Audi or Mercedes to fix.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

^ Go on eBaymotors, Autotrader, KBB etc... search BMW, and then organize the results by "Mileage; highest first"... you'll see many 200k+ miles cars on there...

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...By=mileageDESC

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Zero! Congrats on the upgrade, buddy.


You maintain and mod the car you have, then move on when you find the car you want more than the car you have. That's the point right there.


The new 328 is a fine car. The new Q50 will be available end-of-summer.

You can't ask for advice without disclosing your automotive preferences: Sedan/Coupe, New/Used, FWD/RWD/AWD, MT/AT, Sport/Luxury, budget, budget, budget, etc.

txnurse25

I guess my point when i started this wasnt looking for advise on newer cars, just a general thought of when it might be time to move on.

Talk to the shop and they said they have no idea whats going on and recommended another shop "Wires are spliting off and we dont know why" ... o2 sensor wires from the header install. They said all they know its its an electrical issue ....ugggg was really hoping it would be back up and running so I could work on the other issues.

With that said, now I guess I do need a touch of insite lol
"You can't ask for advice without disclosing your automotive preferences: Sedan/Coupe, New/Used, FWD/RWD/AWD, MT/AT, Sport/Luxury, budget, budget, budget, etc."

Sedan, Used, rwd,MT, sport/luxury no more that 25k... uggg I hate car payments.

bmw 328i, g37 and mitsub evo tops my lists.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

my HPFP is the same used on the cummins and a handful of other diesels not known for HPFP failure and as far as I know there hasnt been a single HPFP failure reported in this car. I guess 30,000 PSI in the fuel rail isnt so bad after all

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

I was there man. Provided I hate car payments again, but it's a pay to play and have sanity situation. Most Maxima owners have similar tastes, and when it came to next step options, I wanted something RWD and with a 6MT. Mainly was going to be a G37 or a 335.

See you have one too! 2007 Black on black E92, Sport/Premium/ColdW. I'm working on the tune this month!

Finally did it, Rochester! Thanks.

But enough about my purchase, back to the OP. What Rochester said about the moving on part is true. First, it's a matter of determining when you drop the repair flag and move on.

Either way you go, you will have good resources. The org to keep this one afloat, or the next forum for whatever you decide to research.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Foreign only? No domestic brands?

You can get a 2010 Acura TL-Sh AWD 6MT for $25k. And you can easily find a Cadillac CTS-V 6MT for under $25. Lexus IS-F around $30, probably. And for $25, you should be able to locate a 2009-2010 G37S Sedan 6MT. I hear they're nice cars, too.

You live in Austin, so within reasonable travel distance you have the pick of a number of older cars that are probably still in great condition.

Leroni35

I'd say look for a low mileage 03-07 6spd manual sedan. Then you can swap the intake spacers out the maxima. 03-06 that is.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Nobody can answer the question you asked "When is it time to sell a car and look for a newer one?" but you. Put the facts and figures into a spreadsheet. Look at the costs over a few years of a car payment plus all the other items (gasoline, oil changes and so on) compared to a larger up front cost for repairs on an older vehicle followed by a couple of months (perhaps year or two?) of only maintenance items.

At the end of all that, you still have to enjoy what you drive.

deloa84

iTrader: (5)

At this point it really depends how much you want to dump on the old max. Its a shame because the engine can easily reach 300k possibly even more but there is always maintenance involved no matter what car you get. 5 years sounds like it had a solid run. Got to ask yourself how much longer you want to keep the car.

My buddy picked up a mint E46 (not as much power as my 3.5 swapped maxima) and we took it for a drive and the dynamics of it were amazing. Smooth, comfortable, sporty, etc. I was impressed.

The only real thing that has stopped me from buying a newer car is school, insurance cost, and car payments lol. But it has given me a chance to work on the good ol' max. I have been in this situation where my car has broken down a couple of times but referring back here (maxima.org) I have been able to address and fix just about everything on it and been a good solid DD.

Good luck in your situation.

Next car for me... Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 or SRT

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

My maxima had never left me stranded on the side of the road during 3yr of ownership and 75k miles driven... The only thing that did was a telephone pole I hit on a snowy night... It's a pretty reliable car, and IMO still looks young for a 10yo car. You just hit a batch of maintenance problems at once and it sucks, but if I were you, I'd keep it running for another couple of years or so, save $ every month so when you do pull the trigger, your car payment for your next car will be as low as possible...