Engine swap 5.5 / Need Help
12-07-2012, 05:08 PM
#1
Engine swap 5.5 / Need Help
I have an 02 Maxima and my friend that's a mechanic at Nissan says I need a new engine.. The piston rings have worn out and lots of oil burns. This would explain my misfire I've had for some time now.
What year engine's can I use besides 02-03?
What year engine's can I use besides 02-03?
12-07-2012, 05:29 PM
#2
As long as you use the parts off of your engine you should be able to source any VQ35DE long block. Maxima, G/I35, 350Z, Quest, Altima 3.5, etc. You'll need to save parts like manifolds, oil pans, fly wheel/flex plate, throttle body, and perhaps some sensors. Finding an engine should be cake.
12-07-2012, 07:55 PM
#4
ok, So I should probably just stick with an 02-03 engine to make things easier? or would there be any benefits of getting an 04+ engine? Like do the newer models have better parts than the previous models, seals, coils, ect..?? anything like that.
12-07-2012, 08:39 PM
#5
An 02-03 engine with the same transmission as yours would be the easiest, yes. But only because you wouldn't have to worry about swapping sensors and what not. But really just about any would do the job. If you shop around you should be able to find one for under $1200 in decent shape. Of course if it's just the piston rings you might consider rebuilding your engine or having it rebuilt. Seems a waste to throw away a perfectly good motor simply because the rings are fried.
12-07-2012, 09:13 PM
#6
I don't know but most people tell me its just easier and cheaper to get a different engine, that's alot of work to rebuild and put new piston rings in from what I hear. I'll ask my mechanic to see what he thinks. When I told him I was looking at a new engine he didn't metion anything about a rebuild and my other mechanic from Nissan said to just get another engine.
12-07-2012, 10:38 PM
#7
Easier, yes. Cheaper? I doubt it. You wouldn't have to do a complete rebuild. How many miles do you have on it?
I'd just pull the engine and put it on a stand. Pull the heads and the pan. If everything looks good beside the rings then hell, slap some new rings on there and call it a week (I'm slow, it'd take me a week...and a lot of beer). If nothing else, get a new engine in there and keep the old one. Might be fun to learn about engine rebuilding. It's not as difficult as many make it out. Many of the tools can be had fairly cheap at Harbor Freight. MOst of the tools you'd need are fairly conventional anyway. The big thing would be a micrometer set and some telescoping gauges to make sure everything is still in spec. I've been thinking of getting a VQ just to throw on a stand and have fun with in my free time.
I'd just pull the engine and put it on a stand. Pull the heads and the pan. If everything looks good beside the rings then hell, slap some new rings on there and call it a week (I'm slow, it'd take me a week...and a lot of beer). If nothing else, get a new engine in there and keep the old one. Might be fun to learn about engine rebuilding. It's not as difficult as many make it out. Many of the tools can be had fairly cheap at Harbor Freight. MOst of the tools you'd need are fairly conventional anyway. The big thing would be a micrometer set and some telescoping gauges to make sure everything is still in spec. I've been thinking of getting a VQ just to throw on a stand and have fun with in my free time.
12-07-2012, 11:37 PM
#8
I recently purchased 05 maxima vq for my 02. 02-03 will be the easiest, but 05-06 will be the best for the price and work it needs. Just swap over upper oil pan, knock sensor, CPS, and upper intake manifold. Voala! The upper oil pan is only needed if you use auto engine in 6 speed. Good luck!
Last edited by tosheto; 01-03-2013 at 12:59 PM.
12-08-2012, 07:46 PM
#9
Easier, yes. Cheaper? I doubt it. You wouldn't have to do a complete rebuild. How many miles do you have on it?
I'd just pull the engine and put it on a stand. Pull the heads and the pan. If everything looks good beside the rings then hell, slap some new rings on there and call it a week (I'm slow, it'd take me a week...and a lot of beer). If nothing else, get a new engine in there and keep the old one. Might be fun to learn about engine rebuilding. It's not as difficult as many make it out. Many of the tools can be had fairly cheap at Harbor Freight. MOst of the tools you'd need are fairly conventional anyway. The big thing would be a micrometer set and some telescoping gauges to make sure everything is still in spec. I've been thinking of getting a VQ just to throw on a stand and have fun with in my free time.
I'd just pull the engine and put it on a stand. Pull the heads and the pan. If everything looks good beside the rings then hell, slap some new rings on there and call it a week (I'm slow, it'd take me a week...and a lot of beer). If nothing else, get a new engine in there and keep the old one. Might be fun to learn about engine rebuilding. It's not as difficult as many make it out. Many of the tools can be had fairly cheap at Harbor Freight. MOst of the tools you'd need are fairly conventional anyway. The big thing would be a micrometer set and some telescoping gauges to make sure everything is still in spec. I've been thinking of getting a VQ just to throw on a stand and have fun with in my free time.
12-08-2012, 07:56 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Austin
Posts: 1,155
Once you start digging into the motor, the little things are what start adding up fast. Seals, head bolts, etc.
I would personally look for the newest, lowest mileage motor I could find and then swap parts over.
I would personally look for the newest, lowest mileage motor I could find and then swap parts over.
12-08-2012, 08:09 PM
#11
You should do a 5.7 gen swap..........
Need help
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...vq35-info.html
Need help
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...vq35-info.html
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-10-2012 at 02:12 PM.
12-09-2012, 10:04 AM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 80
But what I'd really like to do is 6 speed that van.
12-09-2012, 10:55 AM
#13
I recently purchased 05 maxima vq for my 02. 02-03 will be the easiest, but 05-06 will be the best for the price and work it needs. Just sway over upper oil pan, knock sensor, CPS, and upper intake manifold. Voala! The upper oil pan in only needed if you use auto engine in speed. Good luck!
12-09-2012, 12:29 PM
#14
Hmm, I wonder if this will work with my wifes 04 Quest? It has to have the timming chain guides and tensioners done anyway, and considering I live in a predominantly imports only area, japenese parts and engines when available, are stupid cheap. Im sure an 09 engine will show up eventually. I'd considered putting a 79,000 mile '02 VQ in there that I found for $420.
But what I'd really like to do is 6 speed that van.
But what I'd really like to do is 6 speed that van.
I do not know, but that's how it is. Look on car-part.com. Most people (including myself) buy 04-06 engines for their 02-03. The 04-06 cost less, is more available, burns less oil if any, has less miles in most cases, and requires very little modification to swap over.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-12-2012 at 08:17 AM.
12-09-2012, 03:45 PM
#15
I think I am gonna look for something from 04-06 engine instead of 02-03.. I don't want oil burner issues. How much different are the engine's from the Altima and Quest than a Maxima? Would it need more modifications than one from a Max or are they about the same?
12-09-2012, 04:26 PM
#16
They are very close to the same. I believe the Quest is tuned to make less HP, but I don't think it's a result of any kind of compression difference. Putting a Quest longblock in with Maxima parts and ECU will give you Maxima HP....lol. I crack me up... 
12-09-2012, 10:12 PM
#17
I just want to confirm with you guys, so I doesn't matter if the engine comes from an auto or manual transmission correct? This website here has options for auto or manual and the Manuel side of it is more expensive. http://www.autopartsfair.com/nissan-...85f3&seq_num=2
12-09-2012, 10:19 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 973
The engine itself will still fit and work but if its from an automatic transmission there is more work to get it ready to drop in such as the upper and lower oil pan will be swapped from ur bad motor to the new motor and an automatic transmission engine has a flex plate instead of a flywheel from what i understand and that has to be swapped from ur bad motor aswell, same engine more prep work for the installer
12-09-2012, 10:25 PM
#20
Hmm... I wonder how labor intensive swaping the flex plate would be? I don't know anything about it. Just trying to figure this all out before I order the new engine. I can't find much info to answer my engine swap questions.
Yeah I have a 6-spd
I found an 07' engine off a Maxima with only 63k for $1000, I went and looked at it today and its clean. They said the compresion test was good rite at 170. Looks like the swap will start this weekend. Let me know if you have any pointers prior to this.
I've got new header gaskets, ordering a new clutch, and new motor mounts from Energy Suspension so far.
Yeah I have a 6-spd
I found an 07' engine off a Maxima with only 63k for $1000, I went and looked at it today and its clean. They said the compresion test was good rite at 170. Looks like the swap will start this weekend. Let me know if you have any pointers prior to this.
I've got new header gaskets, ordering a new clutch, and new motor mounts from Energy Suspension so far.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-12-2012 at 08:16 AM.
12-12-2012, 06:22 AM
#21
Build the motor!!! Lol
That 07 for $1000 ain't to bad. I say go for it! If you are getting a new clutch, don't forgot about a new throw out bearing as well. And if you were thinking about a new or lightned flywheel, now is the time to do it.
Also replace the rear main seal while your at it. And check your high pressure power steering hose.
That 07 for $1000 ain't to bad. I say go for it! If you are getting a new clutch, don't forgot about a new throw out bearing as well. And if you were thinking about a new or lightned flywheel, now is the time to do it.
Also replace the rear main seal while your at it. And check your high pressure power steering hose.
12-13-2012, 07:20 PM
#22
Picking up the 07' Engine tomorrow. So far I have bought new:
-Clutch Kit
-Timing Chain tensioners and Guides
-Motor Mounts
-Hoses
-Fluids
I don't think im gonna do the rear main oil seal unless it looks bad. If there's anything else that may be important or if you have any pointers for the swap please let me know.
rebelhell metioned above that I'll have to swap some parts like manifolds, upper oil pan, fly wheel/flex plate, throttle body, and some sensors. Which manifold has to be swaped and why can't I use the throttle body from the new engine? Please inform me.
-Clutch Kit
-Timing Chain tensioners and Guides
-Motor Mounts
-Hoses
-Fluids
I don't think im gonna do the rear main oil seal unless it looks bad. If there's anything else that may be important or if you have any pointers for the swap please let me know.
rebelhell metioned above that I'll have to swap some parts like manifolds, upper oil pan, fly wheel/flex plate, throttle body, and some sensors. Which manifold has to be swaped and why can't I use the throttle body from the new engine? Please inform me.
12-13-2012, 08:55 PM
#24
Picking up the 07' Engine tomorrow. So far I have bought new:
-Clutch Kit
-Timing Chain tensioners and Guides
-Motor Mounts
-Hoses
-Fluids
I don't think im gonna do the rear main oil seal unless it looks bad. If there's anything else that may be important or if you have any pointers for the swap please let me know.
rebelhell metioned above that I'll have to swap some parts like manifolds, upper oil pan, fly wheel/flex plate, throttle body, and some sensors. Which manifold has to be swaped and why can't I use the throttle body from the new engine? Please inform me.
-Clutch Kit
-Timing Chain tensioners and Guides
-Motor Mounts
-Hoses
-Fluids
I don't think im gonna do the rear main oil seal unless it looks bad. If there's anything else that may be important or if you have any pointers for the swap please let me know.
rebelhell metioned above that I'll have to swap some parts like manifolds, upper oil pan, fly wheel/flex plate, throttle body, and some sensors. Which manifold has to be swaped and why can't I use the throttle body from the new engine? Please inform me.
12-14-2012, 07:13 AM
#25
Actually I think you'll need the 07 throttle body. You'll probably use the 07 intake manifold as well. You'll need the 02 exhaust manifolds though. Check out the 09 swap thread HERE. You'll probably need that information. It's probably more relevant than any 5.5 gen swaps here. You may also have to work some magic with the Cam sensors. You might wanna PM SurraTT. He seems to really know his sh*t.
02-08's are all the same, CTVC's and all.
The 07-08 IM is just a polymeric version of the 02-06. 02-08 TB's are the same too.
The actual change you're referring to occurred in 09. So unless he's got an 09 VQ, it is irrelevant.
12-14-2012, 09:43 AM
#26
Just wanted to confirm. So we shouldn't have a problem lifting the engine through the top right? Since we don't have a professional car lift like Nissan to drop it from the bottom. As long as the Radiator, Hood and other parts are out of the way?
12-14-2012, 09:47 AM
#27
Good to know. I wasn't sure but had heard the 07-08 was different. Just didn't know exactly how different.
12-16-2012, 10:17 AM
#28
When removing the upper oil pan, do I have to worry about any other parts like the drive axle or any parts that may fall thru the bottom. Or is it as simple as removing the bolts and a little prying to break the seal and everything is intact?
Also if anyone knows of any literature or a write up on removing the engine please inform me. I have read a little bit here on the forums but all the advise I'm getting is to drop the engine and tranny together from the bottom. People say its the easiest way. Any step procedures would really be nice.
Also if anyone knows of any literature or a write up on removing the engine please inform me. I have read a little bit here on the forums but all the advise I'm getting is to drop the engine and tranny together from the bottom. People say its the easiest way. Any step procedures would really be nice.
12-19-2012, 01:56 AM
#29
When removing the upper oil pan, do I have to worry about any other parts like the drive axle or any parts that may fall thru the bottom. Or is it as simple as removing the bolts and a little prying to break the seal and everything is intact?
Also if anyone knows of any literature or a write up on removing the engine please inform me. I have read a little bit here on the forums but all the advise I'm getting is to drop the engine and tranny together from the bottom. People say its the easiest way. Any step procedures would really be nice.
Also if anyone knows of any literature or a write up on removing the engine please inform me. I have read a little bit here on the forums but all the advise I'm getting is to drop the engine and tranny together from the bottom. People say its the easiest way. Any step procedures would really be nice.
I do not know of a write-up, but I think if you keep your engine and transmission together when you drop them your life will so much easier.
12-23-2012, 01:17 AM
#32
So i'm on day 3 now,
we got the old engine droped and I've been swaping parts all day.. It took a lot longer than expected.. The power stering pump was a pain, we didn't want to bleed the fluid so we took everything apart except the hoses and crammed it in the corner so we could drop the engine. The AC compressor was another pain since and we didn't want to depressurize the unit. Did I mention the exhaust was a bi*ch too, most all the bolds had to be PB blasted and torched.
Another little problem I ran into today was swaping the upper oil pan to the new engine. It didn't have enough clearance to seal tight with the block. So here where it took a little thinking. The old 02' engine has a baffle screwed at the bottom of the upper oil pan where the 07' engine doesnt have a baffle in the same location. Its baffle is located at the bottom of the block where the very top of the upper oil pan meets. Both baffles don't work together at the same time so we removed the one from the 07' and left the baffle in the 02' oil pan.. The baffle is just something for the oil to move around.
I'll be putting in the new clutch/flywheel, 5 pc spacers, BOP and gutting the precats since one of them just fell out anyways. I have some pics on my fiends phone I'll have to upload soon.
we got the old engine droped and I've been swaping parts all day.. It took a lot longer than expected.. The power stering pump was a pain, we didn't want to bleed the fluid so we took everything apart except the hoses and crammed it in the corner so we could drop the engine. The AC compressor was another pain since and we didn't want to depressurize the unit. Did I mention the exhaust was a bi*ch too, most all the bolds had to be PB blasted and torched.
Another little problem I ran into today was swaping the upper oil pan to the new engine. It didn't have enough clearance to seal tight with the block. So here where it took a little thinking. The old 02' engine has a baffle screwed at the bottom of the upper oil pan where the 07' engine doesnt have a baffle in the same location. Its baffle is located at the bottom of the block where the very top of the upper oil pan meets. Both baffles don't work together at the same time so we removed the one from the 07' and left the baffle in the 02' oil pan.. The baffle is just something for the oil to move around.
I'll be putting in the new clutch/flywheel, 5 pc spacers, BOP and gutting the precats since one of them just fell out anyways. I have some pics on my fiends phone I'll have to upload soon.
12-30-2012, 10:12 PM
#33
Day 1
Here's some progress I took over the last week.
This is the new engine with 60k, looks clean. Payed $1,000
Day 3
Here's removing the tranny after we dropped them together.
Day 4
This is the new JWT clutch and flywheel combo, looks nice.
Day 5
Installing the new engine
Last but not least.
So far its got all new belts, New hoses, fresh fluids, new timing chains and tensioners, NWP 5 pc spacers, JWT clutch and flywheel combo, gutted cats, new under drive pully and in the process of ported and polished intake manifolds along with headers in the near future. Will be looking to reflash the ECU sometime too.
I'm waiting on a new starter from Advanced Auto parts online and this project should be complete, my friend accidentally broke the copper bolt on the solenoid and ghetto riging did not work. Can't wait to see what I've been missing.
Here's some progress I took over the last week.
This is the new engine with 60k, looks clean. Payed $1,000
Day 3
Here's removing the tranny after we dropped them together.
Day 4
This is the new JWT clutch and flywheel combo, looks nice.
Day 5
Installing the new engine
Last but not least.
So far its got all new belts, New hoses, fresh fluids, new timing chains and tensioners, NWP 5 pc spacers, JWT clutch and flywheel combo, gutted cats, new under drive pully and in the process of ported and polished intake manifolds along with headers in the near future. Will be looking to reflash the ECU sometime too.
I'm waiting on a new starter from Advanced Auto parts online and this project should be complete, my friend accidentally broke the copper bolt on the solenoid and ghetto riging did not work. Can't wait to see what I've been missing.
Last edited by MaxinO2; 12-30-2012 at 10:23 PM.
12-31-2012, 01:02 AM
#34
Looking good. Don't worry too much about that oil screen thing. I do not think it's crucial. I think I took mine out from the 02 oil pan and left the one from the new engine on. Did you replace the 2 oil o-rings and the 2 moon shaped gaskets?
12-31-2012, 12:19 PM
#35
I didn't replace the two little orange rings since they still looked good and I'm not sure I know what the moon shaped gaskets are. Where is this located I don't recall? Hopefully I didn't screw anything up by forgetting this.
12-31-2012, 12:30 PM
#36
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Location: Montreal, QC,Canada
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The "moon-shaped gaskets" tosheto is referring to are the half-circle rubber oil pan gaskets (crankshaft seals) at front and back of the upper oilpan where it meets the crank. They should normally be replaced if you pull/swap the oil pan to avoid a potential leak.
12-31-2012, 04:51 PM
#37
Oh I understand now thanx, I replaced the one on the timing side with a OEM gasket but reused to old one on the other side. It didn't have any cracks. I used permatex around the whole upper oil pan instead of RTV. I put some around and over both seals as well.. My friend said the permatex is good stuff and should hold.. I hope it does.