Saadkhan07

Today i decided i would install my new Pioneer CD player and the ASWC module. I was able to take everything off, which wasnt difficult. I have a none bose system btw.

When i tried taking the screws off the head unit, they were just stuck on there like no other, it was IMPOSSIBLE to take them off ! I even went to the store and bought a T handle screw driver....and i find this retarded...but the BIT broke !

This is a extreme pain to work on. I stopped trying so i wouldnt strip the heads off. And after looking at the ASWC module, which requires splicing into the main factory vehicle harness, i decided not to further pursue, and i put everything back in.

Why is this car so difficult ? i have changed stereos on other cars recently,, which were extremely easy to install...but this one...SMH !

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Those screws can be a real pain. I broke 2 bits and stripped out three of the 8 screws. Ended up drilling those out. The ASWC looks more complicated than it is though. It's really not that bad.

designate72

iTrader: (1)

Either get the stereo adapter on Amazon that has the brackets included that are plastic so you don't have to get the existing ones off of the head unit, or try this trick that I found: Start each screw by actually trying to screw it in further, it may seem counter intuitive, but it worked. Screw it in further until you hear/feel a click or pop, and that means that the screw has been broken. Then you should be able to unscrew it easily.

djkevinnn

iTrader: (5)

I used a socket wrench with a phillips head to get them off, it worked magic

02pearlmax

iTrader: (8)

I ended up just buying new brackets and screws from the dealer. I just swapped over the HVAC because the HVAC screws aren't nearly as stubborn for some reason. It wasn't that expensive (around $20 IIRC). I forget the part numbers but if you describe it to the parts guy he will know what you're talking about.

merovi

iTrader: (7)

Just did the exact same thing. I had a professional installer (friend) hit the screws with a high torque screwdriver drill and they came right out.

Also, if you get the right harness you don't need to splice anything into the factory. I'm not exactly sure what module you were trying to install, but the NAV unit I put in needed a ton of stuff connected and the only thing I needed to "splice" was to ground my steering wheel control harness so I could retain the working trip button until I get a PAC interface.

maxx0831

iTrader: (2)

What i did to take the screws off on 2 maximas was use a drill on the lowest setting and set it on clockwise rotation to break the seal of the screw. Then reverse it and it will come out. You will hear a "tick" when the seal is broken. Also if it still doesnt work, take a flat head and hammer the flathead into the screw to force it to the left as if it was unscrewing. I hope u could understand what I was trying to say. This worked wonders for me.

Finchum

just installed a complete stereo(speakers/receiver/sub) and forgot all about the trip. Which wire is the ground so I can do the same until i get the interface?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

once again 4th gen FTW

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

On the sixteen pin connecter...

Connect pin eleven (11) to ground.

Finchum

10-4!

will do this this weekend. got an oil change to do. i like to check mpg on the hwy

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

It should be a blue wire IIRC.

Saadkhan07

See...this helps out !!! THANKS !!

I am going to get it installed professionally....i took apart everything and felt like not doing any of it. Ill tell them to ground that pin, so that my TRIP works, which is EXTREMELY important !

Finchum

^did you get everything going? and do you have shoddy am/fm reception after the install?

does anyone have the fix for the lousy am/fm reception after an aftermarket HU install. several misc nissan forums/threads say nissan has a diverse antenna that has a powered box running the in-glass antenna(located on r/s c-pillar). And you have to connect a certain wire running to that box to a switched acc wire providing 12v.

any input rebel?

designate72

iTrader: (1)

I had the radio reception problem, and flipping around the antenna adapter cord (plugging it in backwards) totally fixed my problem.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the in-glass antenna is does have a powered amplifier. If you used the Metra Factory Amplifier Integration Harness and you connected it per the instructions, you should have already wired up the remote turn on from the stereo to the factory wiring. You can check to make sure you have power at the antenna amplifier.

I had the same problem with my install and the antenna WAS powered properly. Turns out the issue was a poor ground. You have to make sure you ground the hell out of your aftermarket stereo. I ran a new ground cable over to the factory body ground near the base of the left A pillar. After that my reception has been great.

Finchum

so you effectively turned the radio side of the adapter upside down? any particular reason the adapter is shaped like a y-splitter and only one end plugs in to the radio?

yea I wired the Metra harness up good with solder and heatshrink. the ground is ran up to the dash cross bar under/behind the centervents where the stereo/hvac bracket mounts. I will extend it and run it to my community grounding point near the driver door kickpanel. i've got a few other grounds on a 10mm there.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Then the only thing left is to check your antenna amp. The power wire should be a green/white wire behind your dash. Make sure that's connected to your remote turn on wire on the head unit. The Amp itself is located next to the lower right side (passenger) of the rear window. Try to find it and make sure it has power.

mau108

my fm has been lousy after installing aftermarket radio. From what I gather from this forum its normal for the max due to the type of antenna in this vehicle (there are 2 antenna's ?)

I've been thinking about buying a regular pole antenna and shoving it into the pillar and run the wire to the deck....if I'm bored I may give this a shot some time.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Let us know how that turns out. I don't hold high hopes for you though. Sticking it inside the pillar will be a lot like putting it in its own little faraday cage. You really should make sure your antenna amp is powered.

Finchum

ive seen where several people have run into this. They do hook up the antenna amp wire. this issue that arises is that the aftermarket deck doesnt put out the voltage the antenna amp needs. so fixing comes from swapping to a switch 12v source.

i could be wrong tho

going to poke around at it now

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Unlikely. I did a draw test on the antenna amp and came up with 65-75mA. Most head units will supply 300-500mA of 12V for the remote turn on. This is MORE than sufficient. There shouldn't be any issues as long as it's hooked up. Like I said earlier, my main FM reception problem ended up being poor ground on the head unit (even though I added additional ground). I think some of this is from swapping out the metal brackets with the plastic scosche brackets. Some of it was the additional draw from my head unit, XM receiver, traffic receiver, ASWC, etc. Some of it is just the **** poor ground in the factory harness.

I had tried several other fixes including power filter, ground loop isolators, and rca noise filters. Some of these fixes actually made it worse. I ended up leaving the power filter on as it didn't seem to hurt anything. But what really fixed it was pulling a ground wire (12 ga) from the factory body ground to the radio chasis. I also used two other grounding points behind the dash for my wiring. Once I did that my reception cleared right up. It's now at least as good as the factory radio. Before that I was getting okay reception on strong stations but the further away I got from the station the more engine noise I was getting.

Check the specs on your head unit and make sure it will supply enough current on the remote wire. I don't see why it wouldn't but it won't hurt to check. You can also check the draw on your antenna amp and make sure it's not excessive. But I'd also double and triple check your ground connections.

Finchum

I rerouted my ground to the bracket screw on my hvac and connected my antenna wire to switched 12v it now works like a charm. radio sounds AWESOME. 20x better than stock with 30x better clarity. lol

thanks for the help there with the ground point.

also I grounded the br/w wire on the 16 pin connector and got my combimeter working again. good stuff. just need to invest in an interface for the steering controls

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you've got things working.

zsolt117

I completely drilled the screws out and sacraficed my factory head unit as well haha oh well id rather have my 400$ pioneer, still have bad reception though.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Check your grounds...
My $1200 Pioneer had horrible reception until I fixed this. Which HU do you have?

zsolt117

I honestly couldn't tell you its a 2007 model 7900bt I think, I checked the grounds they are all good I only get certain channels, but at least its the channels I like.

Finchum

^after what i found yesterday and the results i got. ~10Fold improvement....

move your ground(since the fsm says the oem unit grounds through the unit's chassis/brackets) to the brackets. and give the #5 green/white wire 12v switched power(i tapped into the head units switched 12v power).

you will love it.